Low range torque wrench

My OCD self is getting more concerned about low torque specs....

Any recommendations for low range quality precision torque wrenches? Mbe 36 in-lbs to around 240 in-lbs..

Thanks in advance for your suggestions.

🙂

I bought an ACDelco ARM601-3 3/8” (3.7 to 37 ft-lbs range.  Other torque units like in-lbs and N-M are selectable) two years ago specifically for front fork servicing.

56 minutes ago, mello dude

My OCD self is getting more concerned about low torque specs....

Any recommendations for low range quality precision torque wrenches? Mbe 36 in-lbs to around 240 in-lbs..

Thanks in advance for your suggestions.

🙂

I feel your pain mello, all I have is this 3/8 gem. its older than dirt.

mello, you can come borrow this one if you want, but I wonder if AutoZone has one to loan for your clips.

2 hours ago, tsmitty

mello, you can come borrow this one if you want, but I wonder if AutoZone has one to loan for your clips.

I appreciate the offer, but as a longtime tool junkie, I'm looking to purchase.

The cycling world might be a place to look. With carbon reinforced plastic frames, torque values are critical and they are all low range. Link to reviews here:

https://www.bikeradar.com/advice/buyers-guides/best-cycling-torque-wrench/

Good tip, re bicyclist tools.  

"It’s also important that you prepare the relevant component you’re fitting. It’s always worth adding a lower-strength threadlock or an anti-seize to prevent a bolt from loosening over time, but it also allows you to tighten the bolt up to a lower torque. You should always have suitable threadlock or anti-seize on any bolts – never have them dry."

However, this^^ is potentially bad advice... Most torque specs are for "lightly lubricated" fasteners.  True, they are not "dry", but neither are they the same as for threads slathered in anti-seize or thread lock.  Because torque wrenches read drag, any time you decrease drag by making the threads slippery you affect the torque setting.  Beware that you cannot use the OEM torque reading "as is" if you change something which increases thread lubrication.  It is therefore recommended that the torque setting be reduced 25% - 50% if you lubricate threads where the OEM torque spec does not call for any special lubrication.  (YMMV.)

Ciao,

JZH

... because what we really want is a certain pretension in the screw.

12 hours ago, JZH

Good tip, re bicyclist tools.  

"It’s also important that you prepare the relevant component you’re fitting. It’s always worth adding a lower-strength threadlock or an anti-seize to prevent a bolt from loosening over time, but it also allows you to tighten the bolt up to a lower torque. You should always have suitable threadlock or anti-seize on any bolts – never have them dry."

However, this^^ is potentially bad advice... Most torque specs are for "lightly lubricated" fasteners.  True, they are not "dry", but neither are they the same as for threads slathered in anti-seize or thread lock.  Because torque wrenches read drag, any time you decrease drag by making the threads slippery you affect the torque setting.  Beware that you cannot use the OEM torque reading "as is" if you change something which increases thread lubrication.  It is therefore recommended that the torque setting be reduced 25% - 50% if you lubricate threads where the OEM torque spec does not call for any special lubrication.  (YMMV.)

Ciao,

JZH

Yeah, I do a fair bit of road biking so my first impression was torque wrenches for carbon road bikes - but I really never understood why the cycling world is so obsessed with lubed fastener threads. Torque specs are set per conditions in the service manual - the majority of which do not specify anything, so best to follow whatever procedure the manual says (and for cars + motorcycles... it's just not common to put coatings on threads unlike the cycling world). 

In competitive cycling sweat and corrosion is a significant problem hence the lube issue. Mind you I sweat buckets riding to the corner shop to pick up more 🍻