Rewire your headlamps There are 2 headlamp relays one for hi one for low. Switch circuit, wired to the handle bar switch
HI beam switch Blue - Green Lo beams switch White - Green, Green is a ground wire connected to all the lights turn signals ect. Light ciruit, wired to the lamps
Hi beams relay Blue/Black - Black/Red Lo beams relay White/Black - Black/Red, Black/Red, is connected to the fuse [image: user posted image]
Rewired the headlights to get them both to fire at once, added a switch to disable the circuit so it works normally when turned off [image: user posted image] you really cant see. [image: user posted image] [image: user posted image]
[image: user posted image] I used a 30 amp relay and some wire taps, you can see the bulb keeps the elements seperated well with a little cup, I think they will not burn out if used sparingly
Testing the wire harness, used my multi tester to check that all the connections are clean. [image: user posted image]
After I tested it, I buttoned up the whole wire assembly with zip ties and electrical tape, made sure nothing would work loose with riding.
Part 2 Testing the switch and the indicator light [image: user posted image] [image: user posted image] here are some pics I took of the bike in the dark, see the difference the mod makes, I dont recommend running the circuit without the motor running and the idle cranked abit. I did and my battery died at Coors lol. Lo beams [image: user posted image] Hi beams on [image: user posted image] With both fireing [image: user posted image]
Nope works like a charm, man you really dug this one up from the dead! I posted this last July! It has a switch that you can turn it off or on, plus I dont ride with my brights on! maybe daytime but not superbrite!
I have a voltmeter on the dash and when it turn it on its right about 13.5 volts, which is about normal for my bike.
Does this mean that in the stock 98 VFR, when switching on the hi beams, the low beams turns off? That the hi and low filaments in the bulbs were not designed to be ON at the same time?
Yes that is true, all you get on the hi beams is the same 45 watt output as lo. its just aimed differently. Take a look at the bulb in the picture see how they use a diffuser cup to spread the light out for the lo beam.
My mod just turns them both on at the same time, its much cheaper than buying a set of outboard lights and gives a much wider field of view with greater depth. You can upgrade the bulbs to 55x55 watts and get even better lighting I did and the voltmeter does not drop significantly.
Once I had my heated vest on hi, the heated grips on hi, and my headlights duel lighted and the volt meter stayed at 13.5volts, no dipping of light when I stopped at a stop light either. It was really cold out and dark that night, my visor was practically iced over. 30 degrees out but still dry thank God, no snow or icy conditions. Worked well, out on a lonley highway heading home from Denver, nobody on the road but me.
After using this mod for over 2 years it still works great, no blown fuses, I have yet to have it on superhi - vest pumping -and engine fan on, cause well its too cold out to need the engine fan.
Whenever I am riding behind sombody I keep it on lo unless I really cant see, cause it blows up their mirrors with blinding light.
Wow these posts are wayyy old, but the other day one of my low beam bulbs blew out on my '02. ?I actually mis-read this post by Miguel, thinking that Miguel was saying that only one of the filaments are used in the low-beam bulb.
Anyway it got me looking at my lights on my VTEC model. ?Turns out that on these bikes, indeed only one filament is used in the low-beam bulb, and of course the high beam is a separate bulb. ?Now there is some definite scope here for wiring the low beam bulb up to use both the filaments. ? biggrin.gif
With this wired up to a switch, this will provide some awesome light - the VTEC is awesome already, and that may well be because it does keep both the low and high beam bulbs on when you switch to high, unlike the 5th gen.
When I was working on Craigs bike I noticed that the low beam is just a standard H4 headlight that only uses one filiment of two. The connector does not even have provisions to connect the other filiment.
If you wanted to connect the other filiment of the H4 bulbs you would have to buy new connectors with 3 wires instead of 2, I am sure they can be purchased at most auto supply stores. It is a standard part, remove the OEM connector splice in the new one, connect the leads and the ground.
Then you would need some sort of switch to activate the third circuit and a new headlamp relay switch, one that activates off the Highbeam like my system does, so that when you turn on the hi beams you activate the third cirucut and get triple lighting. I would recommend you buy a voltmeter to monitor the voltage drop in the battery when using the new circuit. The alternator on the 02 seems a bit weak at low rpm's
It would be similar to the wire system I came up with with just a few extra parts. splice into the high beam for relay power gorund that, have a switch to turn it on and off, perhaps an LED to indicate on the dash when the circuit is on like I do. Splice into the main power headlamp lead for the third curcuit in the connectors and end with a splice into the common ground wire.
Slammer! When going thru the wiring in this post, it seems to me that both of your headlights are on when "on low beam". That is not the case on my -94 Swedish version (and I'm told it shouldn't). When checking the wiring in Haynes for 94-97 (4 gen) UK model, it looks like both go on when on low beam also. I looked at your mod partially because I wanted to do a double headlight on low mod, the same swichable way. Now it seems to me that this is standard in other countries.
Am I right or am I just plain undereducated in reading wiring diagrams?
I always trick my car's healight system to do this. If you will only pull on the high beam switch partially and not let it click. all your filaments, high and low, will be on. this will be noice to do on the bike indeed. does the VTEC have dual fillaments for all it's lgihts? you can have a fantastic flamethrower on the VTEC if you have all four lights with dual filaments on at the same time! :idea: You might have to install a second battery and uprate your charging system to do it though. What about four HIDs! :idea: Now I wish I had a VTEC to tinker around with for this. sad.gif biggrin.gif
Swiffer, Dec. 13Slammer! When going thru the wiring in this post, it seems to me that both of your headlights are on when \"on low beam\". That is not the case on my -94 Swedish version (and I'm told it shouldn't). When checking the wiring in Haynes for 94-97 (4 gen) UK model, it looks like both go on when on low beam also. I looked at your mod partially because I wanted to do a double headlight on low mod, the same swichable way. Now it seems to me that this is standard in other countries.
Am I right or am I just plain undereducated in reading wiring diagrams?
You run a great site by the way,
Swiffer
Could you clarify what you mean by both headlights? I am wondering if your 94 only has one side light up on low, like an RC51 does? Mine does indeed turn on both headlights (both sides) on the low setting, this is standard here, my friend Craig owned a 96 that also had a similar setup - I am sure the 94-97 has the same wireing circuit as my 98 and this mod can be preformed. Just consider that your adding at least 45 watts more draw. I has to be managed on and off to conserve battery power, never leave them both on without the bike running.
In the US it is law that motorcycle headlights be turned on at all times. I know in Europe and the UK there is a switch to turn off your headlights.
Swiffer, Dec. 13Slammer! When going thru the wiring in this post, it seems to me that both of your headlights are on when \"on low beam\". That is not the case on my -94 Swedish version (and I'm told it shouldn't). When checking the wiring in Haynes for 94-97 (4 gen) UK model, it looks like both go on when on low beam also. I looked at your mod partially because I wanted to do a double headlight on low mod, the same swichable way. Now it seems to me that this is standard in other countries.
Am I right or am I just plain undereducated in reading wiring diagrams?
You run a great site by the way,
Swiffer
Could you clarify what you mean by both headlights? ?I am wondering if your 94 only has one side light up on low, like an RC51 does? Mine does indeed turn on both headlights (both sides) on the low setting, this is standard here, my friend Craig owned a 96 that also had a similar setup - I am sure the 94-97 has the same wireing circuit as my 98 and this mod can be preformed. Just consider that your adding at least 45 watts more draw. ?I has to be managed on and off to conserve battery power, never leave them both on without the bike running.
In the US it is law that motorcycle headlights be turned on at all times. I know in Europe and the UK there is a switch to turn off your headlights.
Yeah I meant one side lighting up on low. Thanks for your quick reply. It feels good not to be completely ignorant. I now have to do a"double mod" to make my bike do both sides on low and both filaments on both sides on high. Both swichable like your is, if the Swedish police have a strong feeling about this. Thanks again!
Swiffer, Dec. 13Slammer! When going thru the wiring in this post, it seems to me that both of your headlights are on when \"on low beam\". That is not the case on my -94 Swedish version (and I'm told it shouldn't). When checking the wiring in Haynes for 94-97 (4 gen) UK model, it looks like both go on when on low beam also. I looked at your mod partially because I wanted to do a double headlight on low mod, the same swichable way. Now it seems to me that this is standard in other countries.
Am I right or am I just plain undereducated in reading wiring diagrams?
You run a great site by the way,
Swiffer
Could you clarify what you mean by both headlights? ?I am wondering if your 94 only has one side light up on low, like an RC51 does? Mine does indeed turn on both headlights (both sides) on the low setting, this is standard here, my friend Craig owned a 96 that also had a similar setup - I am sure the 94-97 has the same wireing circuit as my 98 and this mod can be preformed. Just consider that your adding at least 45 watts more draw. ?I has to be managed on and off to conserve battery power, never leave them both on without the bike running.
In the US it is law that motorcycle headlights be turned on at all times. I know in Europe and the UK there is a switch to turn off your headlights.
Yeah I meant one side lighting up on low. Thanks for your quick reply. It feels good not to be completely ignorant. I now have to do a"double mod" to make my bike do both sides on low and both filaments on both sides on high. Both swichable like your is, if the Swedish police have a strong feeling about this. Thanks again!
/Swiffer
I'm slow (in most senses of the word) can't you tell? I think that this question really boils down to "why use a relay instead of just a switch". But I'll put it like this: Since I want both sides of my headlights to be on when on low beam (which it is not as I mentioned above) I can just put a wire between the low beam wire of the side that is lit and to the low beam connector on the side that isn't. Right? Now, to get it switchable I could just add a switch to this wire, couldn't I? Not having to add a relay to make it switchable?
/Swiffer (confused - but now on a slightly higher level)
Swiffer, Feb. 09 2004I'm slow (in most senses of the word) can't you tell? I think that this question really boils down to \"why use a relay instead of just a switch\". But I'll put it like this: Since I want both sides of my headlights to be on when on low beam (which it is not as I mentioned above) I can just put a wire between the low beam wire of the side that is lit and to the low beam connector on the side that isn't. Right? Now, to get it switchable I could just add a switch to this wire, couldn't I? Not having to add a relay to make it switchable?
/Swiffer (confused - but now on a slightly higher level)
The reason for the extra relay is to make a ground circuit that works WITH the hi lo switch on your left handle bar.
The extra relay is wired to the Hi circuit, and switched to dual burn when you turn on the dual burn switch, that way when you ride past a car and you need lo beams it will switch to low beam only. The third relay turns off the extra circuit off when the hi lo switch is on lo!
The way you describing to get lo beam only (with just a manual switch and no extra relay), you would have to switch the main hi lo switch to lo, AND turn off the extra switch for the dual circuit at the same time. The relay takes out the extra step and makes it automatic.
Hi, I was able to accomplished same modification without using a relay and less complicated wiring. The good news? it worked...! All you have to do is add a diode across the LO and HIGH beam switch. Connect the "Cathode" of the diode to the "LO" and "Anode" of the diode to the "HIGH" line and that's basically it. How it work? When the LO line is selected the diode is "open circuit" and when the HIGH line is selected the diode is "close circuit" providing 12 Volts to the LO line relay at the same time with the HIGH line relay. Check the modified circuit below for the wiring diagram. I was able to use a MR501 diode made by Motorola, any diode beefy enough to handle 1 amp and 20 volts should be good enough, the 501 is little over kill. I was able to tuck the diode inside the switch assembly it self on the handle bar, a little tricky but I don't have to pull the front wind shield. This should save you a ton of wiring work.
the relay gives me the option of keeping it off at super high, so I can just flip the switch when I need that little bit extra light. Your solution keeps it on double high all the time, good stuff! and you reused my drawing too cool. I am gonna move this and attach it to the original post for an alternative.
HispanicSlammer, Aug 23 2005, 08:35 AMthe relay gives me the option of keeping it off at super high, so I can just flip the switch when I need that little bit extra light. Your solution keeps it on double high all the time, good stuff! and you reused my drawing too cool. I am gonna move this and attach it to the original post for an alternative.
You could also just put a switch in instead of the diode. When the switch is open, everything operates normally. When the switch is closed, it is super high. The only thing is that it could be super high in the low OR high position. You wouldn't have to switch on the brights for it to work, just hit the switch.
wera803, Aug 23 2005, 07:32 PMYou could also just put a switch in instead of the diode. When the switch is open, everything operates normally. When the switch is closed, it is super high. The only thing is that it could be super high in the low OR high position. You wouldn't have to switch on the brights for it to work, just hit the switch.
Both switch and diode would be the hot ticket. That way one could defeat the mod by switching - and both would come on only when high beams are switched, and secondary switch is closed.
Well, I used to do this with my cage lights for running midnight rally recon's when I was still rallying. Out there at night, you can't have enough light.
You definitely want to run the relay in order to keep the current off the switch for the "superbeam". Other wise the switch will get cooked from the current and it will eat up a lot of voltage that could be used to light up the lights.
I planning on doing this mod this winter, along with a flash to pass switch on the left switch pod.
Since I'm currently running the sylvania silverstars and will also be upgrading to a set of Hoen bulbs, has anyone running this mod had a problem with heat in the headlight assembly?
Digging this one up from the grave. I was working on this last night and here is what I did. The wiring in red is new. [image: gallery_4338_1246_25245.jpg] Wiring Diagram This is a wiring diagram for having both high and low beams on at the same time.
-This allows the OEM high low switch to go from lows to highs regularly, when the additional switch is open. -When the addition switch is closed, the low beams function normaly, because the diode prevents the high beam realy from triggering. But when you flip to high beams, you energize both relays. I liked the idea of staying on the low current (signal) side of the relay, and this seemed the simpleist solution. I have part numbers and pictures at home, I'll update this post with that infromation tonight.
Update: All finished up and Everything works perfectly. [image: gallery_4338_1246_34384.jpg] Wire Tap Location 1) Low beam connection, - side of diode 2) High Beam connection, + side of diode
[image: gallery_4338_1246_123641.jpg] Wiring Finished up All Soldered, heat shrunk and wraped in loom.
[image: gallery_4338_1246_112079.jpg] Wiring Finished up 1) New Switch 2) New wiring wraped in loom
Make sure that you have the + side of the diode on the high beam signal wire. If you have these reversed, when the low beam is selected the high will be on and when the high beam is selected only the high will be on. Exactly backwards of what is needed.
The diode I used was from radio shack, got two for $0.69. Part number 1N4001 Micromini Silicon Diode 50V 1A. When checking the voltage on the low beam signal wire through the diode, I have a 1v drop, however this isn't a problem because it is still plenty to trip the relay.
More choices - there is a kit available ( I don't know if for VFR, but probably) that runs direct high output wire Say high grade 12 or 14 ga vs 16 ga standard.? from the battery to the h'lights, so the H'bar switches only get low amp. Supposed to make the H'bar switches last longer, and boost volts at the lights from about 10 to nearer the 13.5 or so that's sortof 'normal' ( apparently the H'bar switches, extra wiring, etc eats up some juice.)
I think Euro bikes are supposed to have only one bulb running - that two side by side bulbs can confuse other drivers into thinking it's a car at long distance, then - oops, it's a bike not that far away . . .( that may be wrong, but I think it's why most bikes nowadays have only half running.??) I like two bulbs on, both low & high.
goodhawk, Jan 31 2007, 01:16 PMMore choices - there is a kit available ( I don't know if for VFR, but probably) that runs direct high output wire Say high grade 12 or 14 ga vs 16 ga standard.? from the battery to the h'lights, so the H'bar switches only get low amp. Supposed to make the H'bar switches last longer, and boost volts at the lights from about 10 to nearer the 13.5 or so that's sortof 'normal' ( apparently the H'bar switches, extra wiring, etc eats up some juice.)
The kit you are discribing is how the bike is wired origionally. There is only around 0.1 amps at 13.8v flowing through the switch housing on the handle bar, just enough to trip and hold the relay closed. The current that the headlight draws flows directly from the battery into the switched side of the relay and directly to the headlight. OEM wire from the battery to the relay and from the relay to the lights is 14ga, but each circut only draws around 5 amps, so that size wire is actually overkill. Watts/volts=amps, so 65w headlight/ 13 volts = 5amps. The wire coming from the switch housing is likely around 20ga, but as stated above, it is only carrying signal current, not opperating current. What is being shown in this thread is a way to run both high and low beams at the same time.
Great stuff!! As you probably all know, my silver rocket is from the UK and has a one-sided low beam which doesn't light much up, although the height at which the headlights sit has them shining right in the rear window of most cars so I'm sure they're well aware of my presence. Maybe it's due to my biking history but I find it difficult to mistake twin headlights on a bike with a car far off in the distance!!! blink.gif
Anyway, (my) visibility on dark roads would obviously be an improvement if I could A) have both sides running on low beam and cool.gif B ) optional switch up to High and Low beams when running High beam. So, I've been staring at your diagram Hispanic, and I've finally got my head around which way things flow and such (electrics has been a phobia of mine). What I would love is some MORE inspirational and instructional photos (with arrows pointing to bits etc.), as well as some MORE descriptions of the process. ¡¡¡Por favorcito!!! For example, when you say "splice" is this just twisting the wires together or is there a special connector available? Does the current flow where it has to flow, or is there a particular method to this join to make that happen. (I'm green I know it). Does the relay need a special housing? If so, does it come with that? I'm really keen to do A and B. Perhaps I could even have one-sided and two-sided lo-beam circuitry as well!!
Any other tips to keep in mind if I'm going to do this?? Type of wire, specifiactions for the bits and pieces!! Judging by your nick, you would speak Spanish, the Spanish terms would come in handy as I live in Spain!!
Am I asking too much?? unsure.gif I think I am!! I need an idiot's guide to this mod as when it comes to electronics, my battery's flat!!
Splice - Two wires connected in any fassion. I used the twist together and solder method. You can also splice with crimp connectors.
I don't know exactly how the your bike is wired, but my best adcice would be to stay on the low voltage side of the relay, harder to tear something up there, plus you can use higher gauge wire. I used 16ga, but that is hugely over kill, you could easily use 18-20 ga.
With electricity, anything is possiable, but you have to understand what each part is doing to make it happen.
If you have a full wiring diagram of your bike, send it to me or post it on here, I'll mark it up for you.
Thanks Chris, you've cleared up splicing for me. I was thinking the only way you can influence the direction of flow would be with a diode but didn't want to make any assumptions. What exactly do relays do and how?
Also, if I understand rightly, the higher the number (gauge) the less current (or is it voltage) it will tolerate, right? That is, it will burn out easier? I know voltage and current are different things, I know that it's not the voltage (precisely) that kills you if eletrocuted, but the current, the rate of flow right? (So long as there's a certain amount of voltage I suppose.) So I imagine it's current that will burn out a wire.
As far as the wiring on my bike, a '98 VFR from the UK, I imagine the only difference is they've omitted the supply for low beam to one of the bulbs, (the left one in my case). That is, they haven't run the wire (Blue/Black) you can see in the middle of the three which reach the top of the two bulbs in HS' diagram down to the lower bulb. Right? Or maybe they dioded it!!! I also imagine and hope and pray that the wiring's colour scheme is the same!!!
The manual I have I downloaded off this site which is the Honda Service Manual, maybe the Hayne's would shed some light on the UK issue. Anyway, I would really like to get my mitts into some mods on this bike. Would like to have a powerplug for charging stuff up, like GPS and such, don't need grip warmers here, and the fuse box under the seat sounds good. If only I had step by step, illustrated instructions for doing them all at the same time in order to make the most of having the tank up and the necessary bits and pieces off the bike, thus saving time etc.
Staying on the lower voltage side of the relay means??? Let me make a stab at it, this would be close to the handlebar switch, as I recall reading that it's lower there for stretching out the longevity of the switch, right? On the wire leading to the switch from the relay? Hmmmm, I dig the third relay HS installed, if that makes the system more fail-safe.
I'll see what I can find out about differences in UK wiring and get back to you, thanks a million!!! fing02.gif
Simple terms, Diode - only allows current to flow through one way. Also it only lets positive current to flow through, there fore taking AC and chopping off the lower half of the sine wave. But in this case the only thing you are worried about is the fact that current only flows through one way.
Wire - The smaller the number the larger the wire. I.E. 22ga is smaller than 12ga etc...... This is true with wire that you will be working with, however on the really big wires, you go from 0ga to 1 aut, 2 aut 3 aut etc... So after 0 ga the wire gauge number gets larger with size.
Relay - A relay is just a powered switch. It allows you to switch a high voltage item (lights) with a low voltage switch (handle bar high-low switch). It works by charging a coil with low voltage pulling a contact closed that then turns on the light. When you switch from low to high beam, you can hear a click under the dash, that click is the relay tripping. To have a switch large enough to handle the current for the headlights, it wouldn't fit on the handle bars, therefore you can use a much smaller switch and run them through a relay. Other good uses for a relay is to power an aux. fuse block for the bike. You can find a circuit that is only on when the bike is turned on (for me the license plate light), and use that to power the coil in the relay to provide power to your fuse block. This way the block is only under power when the bike is on, and you will never kill the battery when you leave heated grips on or other farkles.
On your bike, I doubt that the factory used some sort of diode to prevent the bulb from coming on. My Thought would be that they are identical to what they did on the 6th gen H4 bulbs, where they simply didn't energize one of the filaments. On your bike there will be a connector on the back of the bulb, I would guess that the right connector only has 2 wires going to it. One would be ground, and the other the 12v supply for the high beam. If you take the bulb out of the socket, It will have 3 contacts, one for ground, one for high supply and one for low supply. What you will have to do is to replace the OEM socket, with an aftermarket H4 socket with all 3 wires coming from it. If you still want to tackle this, I can draw you up a diagram to follow.
Following you loud and clear. I am very interested in doing the mods, the materials are cheap, and if you do it yourself the manhours are too!! I've been reading up on the thread 747Fixer wrote up (based on an older thread) for the same mod to the 6th gens. I can follow most of what he describes although you've answered my main doubt on his way of describing the 2 point socket which fits to the three-connector-stemed bulb issue. I couldn't tell whether he was saying the bulb had three and the socket two, or the bulb two and the socket three but now I have it down thanks to you!! You must have read my mind as I didn't mention that!!! fing02.gif
I'm also glad you've confirmed most of my postulated basic understandings of diodes and such (although in more precise detail). Good to know I CAN get a grasp of it all if I set my mind to it. I also imagine you're right and the fact our Euromodels only have one side lit up is not via use of a diode on our Euromodels but is simply not connected by using a two connection socket. Cool!!
I'm keen to give it a go, I guess I'll need an ampmeter or such as well. Great explanation of the fuse box set up as well, running it off a permanent (when bike is running) secondary power source. Slick!! I reckon I can follow HS's map for the lights, it's the nitty gritty details of how and what to avoid "hands on" that would come in handy. The required tools etc. as well. I would need a rundown and perhaps a diagram for the fuse box and powerplug set up though. Sounds like a lot of work on your behalf, feel a little squeemish accepting your offer. Would be much obliged. Is this info alread somewhere on VFRD to save you precious time? It goes without saying that there is no ruch, I respect the effort involved from you, please don't let it retract from other more important stuff you might have on your plate!! I imagine it could all be done in a one-day session if I get all that can be prepared set up before actually placing it all on the bike.