I finally mounted the brackets to the topplate for my GIVI E52 today. I used a set of templates I found from a Quebec VFRD member, and had a metal shop cut and bend them.
I sanded them down, and shot them with black Tremclad - semi gloss. I think the turned out pretty good.
THe brackets allow the topbox to be positioned over the pillion seat, and it appears that it will afford lotts of room to move around, but also could be a handy backrest.
I also have DSS sidebags, and the bracketry has to be mounted before these brackets are installed - its a bit of a PITA to get the sidebag brackets, the grab handles, and the topplate brackets lined up and installed - but it works.
One down side to this method of relocating the topbox is that the seat will not come off without removing the brackets first. THere is not enough clearance. If I can figure out a way - or someone here has an idea - to raise the topplate - I'll do that. MAking a new bracket that has a higher vertical would work, but I'm trying to make work what I have.
The topbox sits nicely on top of the pillion area, and doesn't protrude past the tail of the bike.
For now I have a RK 36-liter bag mounted on a Rev Performance tail rack, but I need a better solution for hauling stuff when commuting (and a solution that works for trips as well). I've never liked how the Givi case hangs off the end of the bike though, so I'm interested in what you've done. I don't necessarily need the ability to remove the seat although it would be really nice, so let us know if you come up with a different bracket that provides more clearance or allows for seat removal. Maybe the shop that fabricated your brackets could do a few more? So if you come up with a different bracket, keep me in mind because I would definitely pay a fair price for a decent product.
I've never seen anyone put a Givi box in that position. It looks really good. I'd love to see a 3/4 shot of the bike with all of the bags on when it gets warmer...
Oh, man I can not believe you did this! sad.gif I was planning to this as well and I wanted to be the first one. tongue.gif Oh well, at least I know it is possible to do it and I am not the only one who though it is a good idea. Good job! beer.gif
KKKKen that's going to work excellent. Nice job bro beer.gif Can you access your toolkit without removing the seat? If not just throw your EXTRA toolkit in the top box when travelling. Oh BTW looks to me like your left front pad isn't in place. Want me to drop by and fix it goofy.gif
YEah - I know its a WING in the making, but I think the added benefits of the topbox not hanging off the arse end will be a nice change. I have the IPOD for tunage, just need to tuck that compressor in somewhere................ goofy.gif
Jeepist, Mar 8 2006, 04:53 PMLooks great Ken. Are you sure that you can't remove the seat if you don't use the rear cowl?
AFter I installed it the first time, I realized I had the stock seat on, so I grabbed the Sargent, and tried to remove the stocker. In case anyone is interested, the stock seat is VERY flexible, but I didn't want to find the breaking point. Its too tight as is. Need to raise the topplate up at least 1 - 1/2 inches to help it clear.
Ken, how about spacers and longer bolts under the plate where it mounts with the grab bars? You could use a 1/8" or 1/4" pipe nipple, 2-2 1/2" long with the threads cut off and the ends sanded smooth. Add the proper length bolt and you're in. Just a thought.
04asphalt, Mar 8 2006, 06:55 PMhow does it work as a backrest? can you kick back and reach the bars in comfort?
WIth the Vista cruise locked on, and my knees hugging the tank, I should be able to lean back and steer it like I used to do to my 10 speed.... tongue.gif Backrest might be a misnomer - It certainly isn't in my back as I ride - but its close enough that I can stretch back enough and lean on it for a bit at stops. WHo knows - maybe it's too close - only a good ride will tell me.
Tampa - I heard that you like nipples - admitting it is the first step you know!!!! goofy.gif
Kanadian Ken, Mar 9 2006, 04:37 AMOne down side to this method of relocating the topbox is that the seat will not come off without removing the brackets first. THere is not enough clearance. If I can figure out a way - or someone here has an idea - to raise the topplate - I'll do that. MAking a new bracket that has a higher vertical would work, but I'm trying to make work what I have.
The trouble with that, Ken, is that you would then be raising the centre of gravity again, which would be nearly as bad as the 'normal' Givi mounting position. What about if the brackets were like door hinges (the kind that have a pin in the middle), with a locking pin in one "hinge pin" you could pull out? Then you could just pull the locking pin out, remove the pin on that side, and hinge the rack over to get the seat off. You wouldn't even need tools then to get the rack out of the way.
enzed_viffer, Mar 8 2006, 07:28 PMThe trouble with that, Ken, is that you would then be raising the centre of gravity again, which would be nearly as bad as the 'normal' Givi mounting position. What about if the brackets were like door hinges (the kind that have a pin in the middle), with a locking pin in one "hinge pin" you could pull out? Then you could just pull the locking pin out, remove the pin on that side, and hinge the rack over to get the seat off. You wouldn't even need tools then to get the rack out of the way.
THat is a SLICK answer - thanks for bringing that up!!! NOw - to figure out how to make that happen........ idea3.gif
enzed_viffer, Mar 8 2006, 06:28 PMThe trouble with that, Ken, is that you would then be raising the centre of gravity again, which would be nearly as bad as the 'normal' Givi mounting position. What about if the brackets were like door hinges (the kind that have a pin in the middle), with a locking pin in one "hinge pin" you could pull out? Then you could just pull the locking pin out, remove the pin on that side, and hinge the rack over to get the seat off. You wouldn't even need tools then to get the rack out of the way.
Hey, I was gonna say that. LOL. Then all the s#!t you have in there, falls to one side. LOL.
Ken Send me the materials, and desired dim., and I'll make you a backrest pad to match!
Just use allen bolts for the brackets and throw an allen wrench in the top box. If you need to get under the seat, it will likely be because of a problem that will keep you off the road for a considerable amount of time anyway. Of course, I never use the helmet lock, so I don't consider that a good reason to take the seat off. goofy.gif
Very nice job. I get my brackets from the metal munchers this Saturday and hope my results are close to what you have achieved. Again, thanks for the templates. I'll send you a photo of the spacers I'm going to use to raise the brackets too avoid chaffing the grab handles, assuming the job comes off half decently. Maybe they will resolves the seat removal problem, too.
Very nice job. I get my brackets from the metal munchers this Saturday and hope my results are close to what you have achieved. Again, thanks for the templates. I'll send you a photo of the spacers I'm going to use to raise the brackets too avoid chaffing the grab handles, assuming the job comes off half decently. Maybe they will resolves the seat removal problem, too.
Rich
RIch - look forward to seeing the results. I'm thinking that the ultimate solution is about 1 inch more vertical height than what the templates show. However - your spacers as mentioned may be a fine solution as well.
I had to place one of the grab handle bolts (the most rear ward ones) into the bracket before the topplate was mounted, because the topplate actually partially covers the head of the grab handle bolt. I had to use vice grips on that bolt to tighten it - an allen wrench will not slip into it from above - because of the topplate. (hope that made sense). If not - PM me and I'll explain .
I wanted to add the whole touring package after I bought my bike last year. The HONDA hard cases were the perfect addition, but the top case was stupid looking (sticking out so far behind the seat) and it threw off the balance off the bike and that was before I even packed anything. The dealer took the top case back AND the bracket that allows the quick release.... I love the look of the top case over the seat. NICE GOING. I just might give the OEM top box one more try. The whole project looks fantastic - let us know how it handles with a load!
Kanadian Ken, Mar 8 2006, 09:10 PMI had to place one of the grab handle bolts (the most rear ward ones) into the bracket before the topplate was mounted, because the topplate actually partially covers the head of the grab handle bolt. I had to use vice grips on that bolt to tighten it - an allen wrench will not slip into it from above - because of the topplate. (hope that made sense). If not - PM me and I'll explain .
Can you drill an access hole in the top plate and drop the allen wrench in to tighten the bolt? I don't like using vice grips to tighten them if I can help it.
tbzep, Mar 8 2006, 11:20 PMCan you drill an access hole in the top plate and drop the allen wrench in to tighten the bolt? I don't like using vice grips to tighten them if I can help it.
TBZEP - I just took some photos - photobucket site is under maintenance right now - so can't load them up. BUT - - to answer your question in the meantime, no - there is no way to drill into the top plate to get the allen key in the head.
I'll see if I can remember how to upload to VFRD......
Kanadian Ken, Mar 8 2006, 09:24 PMTBZEP - I just took some photos - photobucket site is under maintenance right now - so can't load them up. BUT - - to answer your question in the meantime, no - there is no way to drill into the top plate to get the allen key in the head.
I'll see if I can remember how to upload to VFRD......
I looked at your pics again. It looks like the Givi badge is in the way. Is that what you are talking about?
End of thread · 30 posts recoveredWayback Machine snapshot 18 Oct 2006
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