#1 Thread starter
[image: gallery_491_2692_70978.jpg]
Blue Sea switches and hot grips controllers
After two years of my previous wiring effort, my el cheapo fuse block - aka checker autoparts special corroded and fell apart, leaving half of the block powerless. Perhaps it was the placement of the unit that caused it, probably I had it up front by the left radiator! So I decided to replace it with a better block and put in some new switches to boot.
Anybody who knows me or has seen my bike knows it built for long distance touring, with heated grips, heated seat, and heated vest! What can I say I don't like getting caught in the cold - out here in Colorado it gets cold at a moments notice! Surprising cold like my trip to Montana last summer where it was down to 35 degrees on the Black Foot Indian Reservation, my heated stuff really came to my rescue! That comes with a price though, a burned out stator for example. So my solution is to remove a head light from the equation! Thats 55 watts for me! So I put the right bulb on a switch so I can shut it off at will - like an RC51 headlight! That frees up some much needed watts when it gets cold! I cant count how many times I have been hundreds or thousands of miles away from home in the cold and alone!
NOW TO THE REWIRE!

Blue Sea fuse block with built in ground block
http://bluesea.com
I bought the big fuse block cause I have a ton of stuff wired
[image: gallery_491_2692_70978.jpg]
Blue Sea switches and hot grips controllers
The switches are double throw, on the right I have my the headlamp off switch down, and the manual fan bypass (turn it on at will) up. The right switch if for my dual burning headlight mod for the 5th gen, turns on hi and low at the same time for extra light when needed!
The nob's are hot grips pulse width controllers for the seat and my vest! I had them on a single controller but the seat would be too hot and the vest too cold so I put in a second one and separated the circuits.
[image: gallery_491_2692_81670.jpg]
Signal Dynamics Heads Up Display LED up voltage display and multi color indicator led for heated grips which I custom made from a multi lead LED two resistors, two heavy duty diodes, and wired it to my headed grip wires. It burns green for low, and red for hot.
[image: gallery_491_2692_57444.jpg]
Stealth position for Radar Detector for when radar detectors can get you a ticket.
I have to give credit to Dutchinterceptor for this idea, he has his Valentine one in a similar position, I took my el cheapo target special (scorpion) detector apart hit it with a soldiering iron to remove the laser sensor and wired up an extension wire, put a switch on the right hand side to turn the detector on and off, wired up a lead to the remote speaker, which I have routed into a passive mixer (listen for radar beeps and my ipod at the same time) I found out that in Amarillo Texas its illegal to have a radar detector so I put it in a hidden spot behind the fairing, sure its blocked but radar can go right through the fairing no problem, its mounted sideways but I tested it on one of those city speed signs with a radar that tells you your speed! It works. It never was a top tier detector anyways.
[image: gallery_491_2692_34883.jpg]
Removed Laser sensor and rewired to face forward removed and hardwired laser sensor to face forward out from behind the fairing.
I found an LED casing that I can glue it into for added protection later, I just wanted the laser sensor to be able to work unhindered by the fairing.
BLING!
[image: gallery_491_2692_121427.jpg]
Eagle Eye II 1157 led bulb replacements
I am always burning out standard taillights so I found these led units on the web Link, they are supposed to be the most powerful led bulb you can get, and they have an enormous heat sink on them, and wiring inside to handle the voltage. They are just pop in replacements. Hopefully these will last! I had to rewire the leads cause they corroded and were hanging by a single thread of wire, one had come apart completely, so I popped the connectors off and soldiered in new wires. I need to replace the connectors but now it works! 5th gen brake lights have a tendency to work loose and burn out, I tried to remedy the situation by wrapping electrical tape around the mounting posts to make it fit snug so it wont rattle , then rewired the connectors, replaced with sturdy LEDs bulbs - I hope I don't have another rider come up to me yet and again to tell me that my tail light is out - AGAIN!
SCOTT OIL FILTER

Scott Oil Filter Reusable micro screen filter & magnetic oil plug.
I also changed my oil and installed the Scott filter I ordered months ago, its a spring loaded unit with a billet machined body, a 35 micron stainless steel filter good up to 600 degrees! And it also has a built in rare earth magnet on the front of the filter to attract metal filings from crankshafts or whatever magnetic stuff would be floating around in the oil, (cam shaft lobes, crankcase bearings etc) - also installed a blue anodized magnetic oil plug, its a dirt bike plug but it fits just right! smaller bolt head thats 12 mm instead of 17mm, it torqued up fine.

Stainless steel filter material 35 microns superior flow

Installed Scott includes a filter wrench that fits over the machined filter body
[image: gallery_491_2692_144438.jpg]
looks nice the rest of the bike looks not so nice!
Blue Sea switches and hot grips controllers
After two years of my previous wiring effort, my el cheapo fuse block - aka checker autoparts special corroded and fell apart, leaving half of the block powerless. Perhaps it was the placement of the unit that caused it, probably I had it up front by the left radiator! So I decided to replace it with a better block and put in some new switches to boot.
Anybody who knows me or has seen my bike knows it built for long distance touring, with heated grips, heated seat, and heated vest! What can I say I don't like getting caught in the cold - out here in Colorado it gets cold at a moments notice! Surprising cold like my trip to Montana last summer where it was down to 35 degrees on the Black Foot Indian Reservation, my heated stuff really came to my rescue! That comes with a price though, a burned out stator for example. So my solution is to remove a head light from the equation! Thats 55 watts for me! So I put the right bulb on a switch so I can shut it off at will - like an RC51 headlight! That frees up some much needed watts when it gets cold! I cant count how many times I have been hundreds or thousands of miles away from home in the cold and alone!
NOW TO THE REWIRE!

Blue Sea fuse block with built in ground block
http://bluesea.com
I bought the big fuse block cause I have a ton of stuff wired
- radar detector - el cheapo scorpion target special
- heated grips - dual stars
- heated seat - do it yourself with kimpex element
- heated vest - widder (soon to sell for aerostich bladder)
- signal dynamics voltmeter - heads up single led display
- relay trip power - for my headlamp wiring job
- cigg adapter seat - for my camera gear
- cigg adapter fairing - for compressor
[image: gallery_491_2692_70978.jpg]
Blue Sea switches and hot grips controllers
The switches are double throw, on the right I have my the headlamp off switch down, and the manual fan bypass (turn it on at will) up. The right switch if for my dual burning headlight mod for the 5th gen, turns on hi and low at the same time for extra light when needed!
The nob's are hot grips pulse width controllers for the seat and my vest! I had them on a single controller but the seat would be too hot and the vest too cold so I put in a second one and separated the circuits.
[image: gallery_491_2692_81670.jpg]
Signal Dynamics Heads Up Display LED up voltage display and multi color indicator led for heated grips which I custom made from a multi lead LED two resistors, two heavy duty diodes, and wired it to my headed grip wires. It burns green for low, and red for hot.
[image: gallery_491_2692_57444.jpg]
Stealth position for Radar Detector for when radar detectors can get you a ticket.
I have to give credit to Dutchinterceptor for this idea, he has his Valentine one in a similar position, I took my el cheapo target special (scorpion) detector apart hit it with a soldiering iron to remove the laser sensor and wired up an extension wire, put a switch on the right hand side to turn the detector on and off, wired up a lead to the remote speaker, which I have routed into a passive mixer (listen for radar beeps and my ipod at the same time) I found out that in Amarillo Texas its illegal to have a radar detector so I put it in a hidden spot behind the fairing, sure its blocked but radar can go right through the fairing no problem, its mounted sideways but I tested it on one of those city speed signs with a radar that tells you your speed! It works. It never was a top tier detector anyways.
[image: gallery_491_2692_34883.jpg]
Removed Laser sensor and rewired to face forward removed and hardwired laser sensor to face forward out from behind the fairing.
I found an LED casing that I can glue it into for added protection later, I just wanted the laser sensor to be able to work unhindered by the fairing.
BLING!
[image: gallery_491_2692_121427.jpg]
Eagle Eye II 1157 led bulb replacements
I am always burning out standard taillights so I found these led units on the web Link, they are supposed to be the most powerful led bulb you can get, and they have an enormous heat sink on them, and wiring inside to handle the voltage. They are just pop in replacements. Hopefully these will last! I had to rewire the leads cause they corroded and were hanging by a single thread of wire, one had come apart completely, so I popped the connectors off and soldiered in new wires. I need to replace the connectors but now it works! 5th gen brake lights have a tendency to work loose and burn out, I tried to remedy the situation by wrapping electrical tape around the mounting posts to make it fit snug so it wont rattle , then rewired the connectors, replaced with sturdy LEDs bulbs - I hope I don't have another rider come up to me yet and again to tell me that my tail light is out - AGAIN!
SCOTT OIL FILTER

Scott Oil Filter Reusable micro screen filter & magnetic oil plug.
I also changed my oil and installed the Scott filter I ordered months ago, its a spring loaded unit with a billet machined body, a 35 micron stainless steel filter good up to 600 degrees! And it also has a built in rare earth magnet on the front of the filter to attract metal filings from crankshafts or whatever magnetic stuff would be floating around in the oil, (cam shaft lobes, crankcase bearings etc) - also installed a blue anodized magnetic oil plug, its a dirt bike plug but it fits just right! smaller bolt head thats 12 mm instead of 17mm, it torqued up fine.

Stainless steel filter material 35 microns superior flow

Installed Scott includes a filter wrench that fits over the machined filter body
[image: gallery_491_2692_144438.jpg]
looks nice the rest of the bike looks not so nice!