VFRDiscussion ARCHIVE / READ-ONLYREAD-ONLY

Sargent Quick Release Pins

12 posts Started 22 Jul 2002 Last recovered post 27 Feb 2007 Wayback Machine snapshot 24 Jun 2007

#1
Installing Sargent Quick Release Pins

[image: user posted image]
Standard Honda "FrankenBolts" Difficult to remove

[image: user posted image]

Sargent Quick Release Kit
  • 2 QR pins
  • rubber backed washers
  • 2 clear plastic tubes (not visible)
  • 2 zip ties (I did not use)
I added a red cord eyeglass holder to replace zip ties

[image: user posted image]

Tools needed
  • Drill
  • 1/4" drill bit for metal
  • Screwdriver for bolt
  • Knife or tube cutter
  • pencil or marker
[image: user posted image]
Drill out the threads

I used WD-40 on the drill bit to keep the bit from overheating and melting the body work

[image: user posted image]
Insert a washer on the QR pin like so

[image: user posted image]
Plastic tubing needs to be cut to size, dont get QR pins mixed up. They will each be slightly different depending on how deep the threads are.

[image: user posted image]
Mark the point where the QR pin clicks into place

[image: user posted image]
Remove the washer and measure the tubeing to correct size

[image: user posted image]
I used a tube cutting tool but a sharp knife will do fine

[image: user posted image]
It is best if the tubing is a smidge longer than need be for a tight fitting QR pin

[image: user posted image]
Install the tube and the washer like so, I cut the eyeglass holder in half then tied the pieces to the inside of the frame with a sailors knot

[image: user posted image]
Finished Project

The eyeglass holder matches the cording on my Corbin seat (trick) I have seen another member who used an elastic cord and drilled an access hole I just let it hang out the side. No worries about losing the pins.

smile.gif

http://www.sargentcycle.com/acfastaccess.htm
#2
Great mod, didn't have to cut the clear rubber piece.  Makes access to under the seat a breeze.  Kind of expensive for what they are, however.
#3
fixed the photos, I am getting around to fixing all the photos in these old how-to's. First I have to upload them to the server, that is if I can find the backups. Some I have to rename cause they have old file names from the camera I used, but then changed the names when I originally posted on the ikonboard forum. Then some have html in the post I have to remove, sucks ass to do that bunch of gobbly gook code I have to remove first, and some are all out of order after I redo them and they come out looking out of plac. Some have the descriptions on top of the photos instead of on the bottom. Its a mess, the old photo server I was using just dropped my account for no reason and so there are a lot of these old posts with dead pictures. It takes almost more time to redo them than to just delete the darn thread and start over.
#4
I HIGHLY recommend installing something to keep the pins attached to your bike. I lost mine; read my earlier comment about how expensive they are to replace!
#5
You can save about $4 if you order the pins from McMaster-Carr they have the same pins for about $15.26 each but then you need the rubber backed washers and a piece of 1/4 diameter tubing to space the pins tight.

http://www.mcmaster.com

[image: user posted image]
Part Number: 90985A112 $15.29 Each
Material Type
Stainless Steel

Finish
Plain

Stainless Steel Type
Precipitation-Hardened Stainless Steel

Pin Type
Quick-Release Pins

Quick Release Pin Type
High-Profile Push-Button

Diameter
1/4"

Diameter Tolerance
-.0015" to -.003"

Usable Length
1"

Usable Length Tolerance
?.020"

Double Shear Strength
9,200 lbs.

Rockwell Hardness
C40 for the shank and spindle. C58-C62 for the balls.

You can get rubber backed washers with 1/4 holes for about 20 cents each and a two inch long piece of tubing for about the same. save yourself some money to afford a sandwitch for lunch. McMaster has different style pins too and various lengths, the 1/4 inch diameter is what you need, and about an inch usable length if you want a different type of quick release pin.

[image: user posted image]
recessed might be safer to prevent loss by brushing up against things

[image: user posted image]
D ring

[image: user posted image]
High tenstion 4 ball design

[image: user posted image]
this one has a T handle and lanyard built in

[image: user posted image]
this one has a spring loaded ball with a shoulder built in to prevent pushing in too far
#6
correction useable lenth is about an inch- you can get them longer to space the head out for easy access with the tubing
#7
Have had them for years - cant bring myself to install them. The "Frankenbolts" take a bit more effort to remove and I store some fairly costly hardware under my cowl (two piece Sargent seat with the rear section removed). Maybe they are just enough to "keep an honest man - honest".

Best regards,

John
#8
Why not get the 3/16 pins from McMaster and avoid the drilling? idea3.gif I am thinking of installing the sargents but I dont' want to drill out the threads.

Has anyone tried this?
#9
cbxfixer, Aug 4 2006, 02:43 AMHave had them for years - cant bring myself to install them. The "Frankenbolts" take a bit more effort to remove and I store some fairly costly hardware under my cowl (two piece Sargent seat with the rear section removed). Maybe they are just enough to "keep an honest man - honest".

Best regards,

John


Thats what I'm thinking. Cant someone take my seat or tools? How do you lock the quick release?


dsirl, Aug 29 2006, 01:33 PMWhy not get the 3/16 pins from McMaster and avoid the drilling? idea3.gif I am thinking of installing the sargents but I dont' want to drill out the threads.

Has anyone tried this?


Good idea.
#10
i am confused? (again!) i have a y2k and removing the seat has nothing to do with these bolts. when i commute with the bike i use these bolts to tie on my lunch box (six pack cooler(got to have good lunch)). i fail to see any benefit (but i'm married so what do i know!)
i have noticed that in hs how-tos the pic are always excellant however; the most trick thing here is in the finished project photo has a shadow photographer fing02.gif
#11
VFR FLYER, Feb 27 2007, 01:33 PMi am confused? (again!) i have a y2k and removing the seat has nothing to do with these bolts. when i commute with the bike i use these bolts to tie on my lunch box (six pack cooler(got to have good lunch)). i fail to see any benefit (but i'm married so what do i know!)
i have noticed that in hs how-tos the pic are always excellant however; the most trick thing here is in the finished project photo has a shadow photographer fing02.gif


They lock the seat cowl into place. Don't need them to remove the seat. Helpful if you take the seat cowl on or off very often. This mod was done to my bike by the previous owner.
#12
VFR FLYER, Feb 27 2007, 11:33 AMi am confused? (again!) i have a y2k and removing the seat has nothing to do with these bolts. when i commute with the bike i use these bolts to tie on my lunch box (six pack cooler(got to have good lunch)). i fail to see any benefit (but i'm married so what do i know!)
i have noticed that in hs how-tos the pic are always excellant however; the most trick thing here is in the finished project photo has a shadow photographer fing02.gif

If your rear cowl is on - frankenbolts included - go right ahead and try to remove the seat without removing the frankenbolts?! Unless you have a 6th gen? You have to take off the rear cowl to take off the seat, which means remove the frakenbolts. Not a big deal if your not needing to get under the seat all the time. Frankenbolts require you to carry a hex key or a flat head somewhere (not under the seat with the toolbag)! For me it was just easier to do the mod, after having lost a frankenbolt on the road, after not torquing it enough with my crappy flat head screw driver in my tankbag.
End of thread · 12 posts recovered Wayback Machine snapshot 24 Jun 2007