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VFR Discussion Group -> Colorado western slope

11 posts Started 28 May 2004 Last recovered post 30 May 2004 Wayback Machine snapshot 29 Apr 2005

#1
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added video and new map

Craig and I made plans for a two day trip across Colorado to ride the Western Slope. �With Plans to ride the Grand Mesa, a place neither of us has been to, it has finally shown up on the radar, so we made an add hock route plan that flew away with the gusty winds as soon as we made for the mountains. �The contintental divide snakes up and down the middle of the Rocky Mountains and we crossed it four times twice over Monarch Pass once on Slumgullion pass and then over Wolf Creek Pass.

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Full sized here � Streets & Trips file

Day One

Warning this a long post sorry lots of pictures
_
Video
I have a 5 minute compilation of the ride along the western slope, 29 mb in windows streaming media
:media:

Western Slope Video

Craig showed up at my house on time at 7:15am, we said our hellos and began down hwy 115 toward Cannon City, I was amazed at the time we were making, we took it rather easy in the Arkansas River Canyon hwy 150 heading west, and actually rode past Texas Creek at less than 100mph for a change. �Craig said later that we had a long way to go so we should ride conservative. �I agreed.

When we rode into Salida it was about 9am, we stopped for a drink and headed up Monarch Pass. �This is where the fun started, what with the gusty 30mph winds, bombing up Monarch Pass at 80 mph is not fun when the winds are pushing you side to side. �I took ScootR's advice for windy riding..... "go faster".... but I must amend that to "when your not leaned over"!! �It was sort of touch and go on the corners.

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Top Of Monarch Pass

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Craig looking all bugged that we stopped for a picture

We zoomed down the mountain and around a few trucks, Craig was leading and I stayed close. At this point I had noticed that we had passed about 9 cops so far, averaging 3 cops an hour. �Cops were everywhere and usually no radar so it was always a surprise. �It helps to know the likely places they patrol and slow down in those places.

We decided to gas up in Gunnison, where the wind had picked up even more, there was gas along the way but who wants to pay $2.25 a Gallon, turns out Gunnison was $2.09

We turned south on hwy 149 and got pushed around even more by the wind, there are rolling foothills that funnel the wind into gullies which toss supercharged gusts at you from random angles. �Its a treat to be leaned over in a nice corner and all of a sudden get pushed over a half a foot or so. �I was tentative to lean it over to say the least. �But the foothills stop when you descend Dutch Gulch. �When you pass Indian Creek its like a new theater set was brought in, one side of the creek is rolling hills with scrub oak and sage, the other side is green with Ponderosa Pine. �Its strange how a creek changes things. �Rounding the corner south you ride along the Lake Fork of the Gunnison.

The Gunnison has many forks of which come together near the town of Gunnison, there is a man made lake called Blue Mesa Reservoir there and west of the damn is the Black Canyon, a fantastic 30 mile gorge that is 1000' feet deep in some places. �On the Lake fork is a mini version of the gorge. �We were riding along that section and found a nice water fall .

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Lake Fork of the Gunnison Lawson Creek waterfall in the background

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The River flows right next to the road when you get close to Lake City, and the road dives in and out of the small gorge.

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There are large rock outcroppings on either side of the river here and Aspens hugging the road

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Rising out of the gorge

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This is the section down the road from the waterfall, I couldn't see the creek that formed the waterfall

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Main Street Lake City

I had to stop for a break or I was going to explode. �There is a convenience store there so we pulled in. �I went inside to find the bathroom but it was outside, I bought a candy bar for the hell of it and went around to the back. �This bathroom had the largest sink I had ever seen, it looked like a �bathtub to me and I had to lean over it to turn on the water, I slipped and banged my head on the faucet trying to span the vastness of the sink and beaned myself but good right in the forehead. �There were some folks standing near the cabins outside and they called in through the door to see if I was alright cause they had hear the loud thump of me smacking against the sink. �I just had a red spot on my head for a few hours and they had a chuckle about that damn sink, seems to be a common thing for folks to fall in. �Craig said "lets get the hell out of here"!

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climbing the hill out of Lake City, just around the bend is the site of the Alfred Packer Massacre.

Slumgullion Pass

From this pass you can see some awesome scenery, Uncompahgre Peak at 14,807 feet and San Juan's In the distance The ridge formed by the mountains is called Cimmaron Ridge, Its the headwaters for the Gunnison and Rio Grande on the other side.

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You can see the road up Slumgullion Pass

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Lake San Cristobal

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Aspens line the slum

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Blurry shot of Craig taking a corner

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The road is not clean by any measure but its nice, you just have to ride suitably

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At the top looking down at the pass, �Red Mountain

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Looking northwest Uncompahgre Peak, Slumgullion slide with the road at the bottom

Creede

The ride to the other side of the pass brings you to some fast sweepers and straits, �the wind had died down and so the speeds went up. �The valley near Creede has some twisty easy roads that are fun at 90mph.

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Town Of Creede

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Main Street, in the gold boom there were 20,000 miners living in this valley

We stopped for lunch at our favorite Creede Haunt, the Tommy Knockers Inn for some of their awesome tacos.
The Proprietor Brian was manning the bar, a nice 27 year old fellow who said �that if he was a bum when he got out of high school in Oklahoma he and his partner would open up a bar in some mountain town. �Living his dream!

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Tommy Knockers

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Tommy Knocker styled Tacos and a Fat Tire

I live for these damn tacos, like nothing I have ever had before. �They are made from hand formed shells, sliced cabbage, coarse tomato salsa, and ground beef marinated in a vinaigrette sauce. �For Taco sauce you get lime slices, yummy stuff NO CHEESE??? who needs it they are tasty as is!

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Wagon Wheel Gap

Wolf Creek Pass

We gassed up in South Fork (of the Rio Grande) and started up Wolf Creek pass. �A word of caution for the traveler, stay off this pass it sucks!! �45 minute delays for construction, they are blasting 4 miles of rock to widen the road and make it sanitary for cage traffic. �Yuck, now its all busted up and bumpy as hell. �Not fun! It seemed like every five miles there was a road block for this and that, then the 9 car pile ups for when the traffic was allowed to pass. �I think at least a third of the road is double fines for speeding!

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Blasting out a tunnel for Wolf Creek Pass

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Coming down the west side, you can see the big turn switchback, but that was all bumpy too!

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Get out the frogs class - time to dissect - this road is clogged!!

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Treasure Falls a nice little diversion at the bottom of Wolf Creek

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That does it for day one pictures, �after we got off Wolf Creek we rode into Pagosa Springs a stinky sprawled out tourist trap with the stench of sulfur in the air. �It takes about 20 minutes to get past the place, and its even worse with the resorts on the west side. �Oh well if your a golfer its alright. �I can think of much better places to stop! �We finally rolled into Durango about 5pm, my batteries on the camera were dead and Craig wanted to pack it in. �We stopped at a gas station in town and took a few Tylenol for the headache's and muscle pains. �Some local was gassing up on a pristine looking 1946 Harley Davison Pan head, he was cussing up a storm cause........you guessed it...........it was broke down. �He said it was his throw out bearing on this clutch, suicide shifter with foot clutch, 25hp max. �He said it was utterly reliable cause he had 800 miles on it. I almost hated to tell him we were gonna do that mileage in just two days. �He was a nice fellow who just liked classic bikes. �I hope he got it sorted out, good thing he was still in town!

We stopped and rented a room, they had a nice Jacuzzi so we soaked our sore butts in the tub for a while, then walked over to Gazpachos for Mexican food and Margaritas. �They said they had Santa Fe style Stacked enchiladas so I ordered that, complete with the fried egg on top. �I had just eaten at Tia Sophias in Santa Fe just a month before so I know what It *should* taste like, close but not quite! �It was good though and the waiter was a great guy! �I got buzzed anyway. �I thought we should walk it off downtown. The conversation turned toward Margaritas, then Beer, then I was talking about the fact that I worked for Coors, then I mentioned that my old boss Pete Coors was running for the Senate to take Senator Ben Knighthorse Campbell's seat then I turned around and the guy was standing RIGHT there! �What a freaky thing, he was giving out directions to tourist. �Seems the guy cant get away from public service even retired!!

End of day one

#2
Day Two

We were up rather early cause the fellows next to us were all construction workers 6 of them in a very small room and noisy. �We went to Oscars for French toast and orange juice, they never seem to fail for a good breakfast. �The sky was clear and the wind was tame compared to the day before, we quickly got down the road!

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North of Durango On Hwy 550

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Two lanes and fast near Tammeron Resort

I actually took several pictures here but they all came out blurry.

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Coal Bank Pass

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Mourning sunshine on Potato Hill

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you got to love those squiggly signs!

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heading up Molas pass

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Top Of Molas Pass

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Large shot of the featured picture

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Craig Heading down Molas

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As we neared Silverton there was a hold up for 15 minutes we met this fellow on a Wing who was from Iowa and he was headed up to Vancouver on a round about way.

We Passed the guy on the wing in short order and then the 10 or so vehicles in front of him. �Then had some fun on the mine road near Chattanooga, I noticed Craig wasn't behind me anymore so I turned around rode back to the top for another go at those super twisties there. � I passed Craig coming down then saw the guy on the Wing again and turn around before he made the first bend. �I had gone to the bottom and back up before him and the cage parade had caught up to us, and Craig has snapped a few shots while I was doing this. �I didn't want to follow the guy on the goldwing very long since I could tell he was a bit scared of the twisty tight roads there, �he was in a death grip on those bars and shoving them at random. �Nope not gonna get behind that guy! He did manage to get in front of the pack of cages though!

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Looking down to Red Mountain Pass

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yea that says 25 mph!

Million Dollar Highway

Not far after Red Mountain Pass you enter the 10 miles of the Million Dollar Highway, this is sheer drops and rock ledges.

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Entering an Avalanche shed

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did I say sheer rock ledges?

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There are long passages that you can see for a mile or more on

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A waterfall at the bottom

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Rock tunnels

Just as soon as we entered the tunnel we were stopped for paving construction, this was crappy highway department paving too, no paver's just a front hoe, man it was crude! �While we stopped the guy on the Goldwing pulls behind us about five minutes later, he forgot to get his kickstand down and the bike fell over. �We jumped off and helped him get it back up, Jebus thats a heavy bike!

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Nearing Ouray

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This is what they were using to spread out the asphalt

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Ouray!!

#3
Day Two Afternoon

Grand Mesa

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Near Orchard City you can see the mesa in the back

We rode thru Montrose and Delta On 550 then turned on 92 for about 5 miles then turned north again on 65. The road to the Grand Mesa, there are 3 little towns along the way and slow cage locals a plenty to pull out infront of you at a moments notice.  MAN was it full of slow blue haired old ladies!  I thought "OH the Mesa is right there, if only we ever get to it"!

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Finally free of those bothersome townies

Well to be fair they LIVE there and we dont, I suppose its just a preamble to the Grand Mesa.

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You know what that sign means!  A long turn that decreases into a tight spiral, lean, lean more, lean more, scrape scrape sparks flyin

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near the top it was cold, 4 or 5 frozen lakes up there and snow.

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Its wierd to go from 80 degrees to 40 degrees in ten minutes

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We rode the way north for fun and the way back for pictures

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The Grand Mesa is Huge, on the sides its full of Aspens and at the top Pines

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On the north side the road was tore up, the side with less sunshine

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I took a Panoramic here on video

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Looking back at Delta

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Aspen trees just cover the side, my dad said there is a grove of aspens here that are one organism which makes it the largest living thing on the planet.

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You can see that sneaky decreasing turn at the bottom there

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It was about 917 miles round trip, after We hit the Grand Mesa we rode east on 92 to Crawford and had lunch at the Boardwalk inn, its a nice place for lunch, then we rode the Black Canyon 30 miles of some great twisties, no pictures cause well 71 is enough dont you think. We were riding in NO Brakes style and leaning it over good in the turns, I was finding a good rythm and scrubbed off to about 1/8 inch of the tire,  I guess I got over my winter reset.  Monarch pass was the same thing I stayed in the far lane the whole way up its fun to do an exersize like that just to keep it pinned to one lane.  Its a 3 lane pass so you can use the whole road but I was just trying to concentrate on good cornering.  I went to bed at 9pm, like a freaking farmer! I was tired!

#4
That is a route I'd so much like to ride. �I have friends that live in Delta and are spending the summer in their new 30ft travel trailer in Lake City. �Another friend of mine lives in Salida. �My wife's paternal grandparents were born and raised in Durango.

Superb scenery, pictures, and narrative. �I totally loved it.

Muchas Gracias Senor Slam!

(If there is reincarnation then I want to come back as HispanicSlammer !)

#5
:bow: Excellent! My wife has told me about a gazillion times how her Grandparents used to take her and her brother on vacations through Colorado, and many times through Ouray.
Kinda neat to see it through your eyes..Thanks, HS
#6
As we were coming down off the Grand Mesa we were near Cedaredge I rode thru a bunch of bees, they splattered all over my visor and so I reached into my pocket to get my damp washcloth from out of my pocket to wipe them off and then I got stung right in the side.  Damn that bee sting hurt, I just grabbed a handfull of Aerostich where she stung me and squeesed it smashing that little PITA bee.  I have a big welt there now.

I have other pictorials of the other sections we rode, the Arkansas river valley along hwy 50, the Black Canyon, Monarch Pass, the Million Dollar Highway.  I may have deleted them to make room for new stuff, but I have them on harddrive.
#7
Nice post Miguel....thats one i would have liked to join you on :beer:
#8
One of these summers I would like to come there for a few days so you can take me on those great roads. Lots of great pictures. We don't seem to take many pictures anymore, just ride. Maybe we will take more pictures at Laguna Seca this year.  :cool:
#9
Quote (ULEWZ @ May 29 2004)
One of these summers I would like to come there for a few days so you can take me on those great roads. Lots of great pictures. We don't seem to take many pictures anymore, just ride. Maybe we will take more pictures at Laguna Seca this year. �:cool:

well if your only riding 200 miles round trip it sort of limits your road options. �I got bored with the local roads a long time ago, sure they are fun but how many times can you ride them and take pictures? �You have to venture out far to get the good stuff. �I like haveing the camera mounted on the mirror, if I see somthing I like I just press the button no stopping, or if it is really special I pull in loosen the clamp and pose a shot.

#10
:bow:
Very nice! I love your ride posts. I grew up in Colorado and I certainly miss it!
#11
I'm ready. I'm going to wait until there's less snow, though. I think mid June is my first free weekend. I'll have to add about 400 miles to the trip from my house. That'll be a hell of a weekend.
End of thread · 11 posts recovered Wayback Machine snapshot 29 Apr 2005