“It's time for all dogs to be dead, ain't you glad you's a pup?”
That's a phrase my grandma used to say. Raised a farm girl, she was a hard worker all her life, up until she passed last year. The saying can be interpreted different ways, but I read it as a reminder to live life to the fullest while you can.
The Goal:
Tour and photograph America for 31 days
Enabling factors:
Single
Flexible job – I have 31 days off (trip dates: August 21-September 20)
I'm 24, right on the brink of 25 years old. A quarter of a century. I'm sure that doesn't sound very old to a lot of ya'll but it's a decent sized step from my point of view. If I'm going to do this, I'm going to do it now.
My 1999 Honda VFR800. I bought this bike back last December and have been working on it constantly since then. The previous owner let it sit up nearly 11 years, so my first duty as landlord of Honda Estates was to evict all the freeloading varmints parked up in the airbox. The fuel system was next, then oil, coolant, you get my drift. The bike's ready and raring to go.
Plans:
Camp as much as possible
Travel very spontaneously (my favorite parts of the trip are usually a product of chance or a last minute decision)
Experience food across the country
Places I Hope to Hit:
North GA, staying at Two Wheels of Suches
Ozarks
Badlands/Black Hills
Glacier NP
Banff NP
Yosemite NP
Zion NP
SW Colorado
It seems that every guy I talk to about my trip gets a wistful look and expresses desire to make a trip similar to this or pines over a missed opportunity to take this sort of journey. Whether it didn't happen because of finances, spousal disapproval, tight work schedules, or a sudden rash of leprosy laden she badgers at their vet clinic, I realize my blessing in being able to pull this trip off.
RD Despite It All
Yesterday, I left work for 30.5 days. Yesterday, I left home for 30.5 days. Yesterday, I left my camp chair because it wouldn't fit. Yesterday, I planned to leave by 3:00 PM. Yesterday, packing took way longer than I expected and I didn't get left till 4:45 PM.
I'm writing this from Two Wheels of Suches. I finally rolled in last night, sometime around 9:30 PM. That's quite a bit later than I had hoped. If I had managed to leave at 3:00, I wouldn't have had to ride up US 60, US 129, US 19, et al in the dark.
The Honda VFR800 has a very unique sound, especially the 5th gen with the gear driven cams like mine. Some have compared it to a raging beast, but last night, my girl Vanessa was anything but that.
Allow me to set the scene. It's after 9:00 PM. The sun's been down for a while. Forest creatures skitter around. Mostly silent minus those drama queen cicadas. The Viffer is running great, dual headlights cutting into the forest. Wait, the forest? Shouldn't they be shining on the road? Turns out my headlights that were slightly high with no weight on the rear become better suited for coon hunting loaded down. The low beams were decent but hardly night riding confidence inspiring. Instead of a raging beast slashing it's way through the forest, she became a lumbering pack animal with glaucoma, man. I'd have to use low beam up to the point when I lean into the corner, then I could switch to high beam mid corner. Kind of like playing one of these with half the screen covered.
The scenery was beautiful, well at best okay. Oh, who am I kidding, I couldn't see it!
Despite things not going to plan, here I am! Full Day 1 begins now.
Pics will have to wait because I forgot a SD card reader. Life's Little Bugs
After the harrowing ride up GA 60 in which my headlights touched the road less than a pathologist's tongue would be likely to lick a specimen of ebola, I arrived at Two Wheels of Suches. After a good nights sleep and a hearty breakfast of pancakes and bacon, I walked outside to start loading the bike back up.
I was met with disappointment. As soon as I rounded the corner of the building, I see a blue 5th gen VFR800 with polished wheels pulling out of the parking lot. A guy on the porch remarked: “He'd been trying to figure out who had the red VFR. He was pretty desperate to find someone to ride with.” I missed him by 20 seconds. This may not seem like a big deal, but I've never actually seen another 5th gen VFR from closer than across I-26 let alone having the chance to talk to the owner. VFRs aren't crazy rare bikes, but in my area of the country, a BOLO for a black and chrome bike would result in 95% of local bikers being pulled. Much Harley. Such Chrome.
When I did finally leave, I took Wolf Pen Gap Rd. What a brilliant road it is! I enjoyed the area in general much more than the Tail of the Dragon, although the Kickstand Lodge is still tops in my book. Much less traffic and wider shoulders make for a more enjoyable riding experience. There's nothing like the feeling of a morning ride in the mountains as the fog lifts, the grass still wet with dew, the air is crisp and invigorating. It makes me question why I live in Flatland, SC.
I am of the personal belief that when Satan possessed the serpent for a time, but he still resides in every yellow jacket ever. I don't like bees. I really don't like wasps. I hate them in my helmet.
I was diving into a particularly juicy corner on Wolf Pen Gap Rd (GA 180) when a large bee thunked on my windscreen and managed to flip up into my helmet (visor was fogged, so I had it up) landing directly behind my nose guard and between my mouth. With the business end of a bee pressed against my mouth and still wriggling bee fuzz on my lips, it was hard to stay concentrated on the corner. I managed somehow, and flicked it out when I found a straight section, which takes a while on that road.
It got me thinking. Like a bee in our helmet, life throws us unpleasant things that we have to face head on. We can flip out at the occurrence and end up in life's ditch, we can postpone action until it's too late and we get stung, or we can choose to remain calm and deal with the situation in a timely manner.
Back to the road, GA 60 is the best. Move over Cherohala, Tyrone's got a new bae. This road has it all. Sweepers, technical stuff, scenery, good pavement, ample services available. Just marvelous.
The rest of the ride to Parsons, TN was pretty uneventful, minus 60 miles in the rain on I24 and 840. I made the mistake of taking Blue Ridge Rd to Ocoee, TN. Great scenery, but SO MANY raft buses belching clouds of various colored smoke like a soup du jour of coolant, oil, and fuel. The smell made me think of the assault my nasal passages took in Managua, Nicaragua, and that, my friend, is not a good thing.
Just remember, if life throws a venomous creature in your face, keep your eyes on the apex and throttle in for the long haul.
OMG dude - your only 25? You sunny beach, your still a puppy, and on an adventure very few get to take. I am soooo envious. Godspeed my friend. Keep us updated.
A cross country Moto trip is to most riders, unless they're really just into track days or bar hopping, a once in a life time experience to go live, be glad that you have the time and means to go! As with many of us multi-decades old riders, who not having done this when we were young, energetic and generally less suseptable to aches and pains from riding all day long, we are definitely a bit envious but would be so glad to live vicariously through your journey! Please update us with pics, stories and any updates that you want to share.
Although I never did a cross country ride while in my twenties, I did ride my motorcycle anywhere and any time I could and I do not regret any minute of those times. I especially enjoyed the trips I took with my father, who unfortunately cannot ride any longer due to very poor vision, but being able to travel the roads of California with him is something I will never forget and will carry with me the rest of my life.
So go out and ride, live the adventure and safe travels!
Oh, if you find your way into California, please feel free to look me up, I am at your service, whether it be as a tour guide or as a mechanic, I'd be more than happy to help live the dream. BTW, if you do end up in California, be sure to use 'the' before the route or interstate number I.e. I took the 5 to the 101 and headed to the 33... it's just something we do here! Lol
If you do make it north to Banff send me a PM. I'll come ride with you for the day and take you out to lunch in Canmore. Better get your move on. Our weather has been wacky this year and we've already had snow in the mountains two days ago (pretty unusual). The weather will probably be okay for riding (warm enough) until the end of September.
It just occurred to me that since you intend to be in the SW Colorado / Zion area, that the Grand Canyon might be something to think about as well. It might add a day or two - but if you haven't seen it, it's well worth it.
Sunday morning, I set out from my cousin's place in Parsons, TN bound for Harrison, AR. The previous days riding had been great, but reality set in when I checked the radar for the route I was taking. I was wondering why they used a different color for Arkansas than the other states on the map, but when the radar went into motion, I realized that they hadn't colored the Natural State red because of the Razorbacks (Woo Pig Sooie!), but because of the huge storm front starting in Oklahoma, stretching across Arkansas and all the way into Tennessee. I looked outside and it was raining already in Parsons.
After suiting up in all my rain gear (PVC and insulated gloves make for a free sauna experience) I said goodbye to my gracious hosts and tenderly made my way down their treacherous driveway that was slicker than eel snot. I wasn't looking forward to riding in rain all day, but the trip must go on!
Thankfully, the rain stopped after about 20 miles, and the roads were dry enough to take off (come to think of it, the term I most often use for putting on the rain suit is “donning it”, so is there an opposite to donning? Undonning?) the rain gear. Things still looked pretty overcast, so I kept an eye on the radar. The storm seemed to be breaking up on the north, a good bit further north than I had planned on heading, but dry was dry.
I had two choices: I could continue with the route I had planned, which would have me on more fun roads, but further south into the possibility of heavy rain, or I could strike out up north, hugging the Missouri border, which had much straighter, boring roads but less chance of rain. In the end, I chose to head north, and I'm glad I did.
Like a charm, the rain broke up on the North and I came as close as meeting people with their wipers on, but I ran with no rain for the rest of the day, and I even got the chance to ride some twisties.
Push Mountain Rd was disappointing at first because of the very poor pavement, but it soon became a Mecca of sweepers and curves. Very fine ride after the pavement cleared up. While coming around one corner, I saw a bit of debris on the centerline. I thought it looked like a dead squirrel, so I decided to see if I could slap it off the road. In hindsight, not the best plan. I don't have the best luck slapping things going down the road. I almost broke my arm once trying to brush my fingers on a traffic barrel and ended up catching it mid-arm at 45 MPH. So, anyways, I leaned into the corner, leaned over and almost grabbed it when the now very much alive squirrel whirled around to face me with a look of terror and a hint of befuddlement. I decided not to grab it, because I wasn't sure what I'd do with it when I had it. So it goes...
What surprised me was AR 14 to Yellville. That road might just be in my Ozark top 3, behind Hwy 7 and Hwy 123. The fact that it leads straight to Razorback Ribs is also a huge plus. If you've never been, you've never truly eaten. Well, okay, maybe you have, but at least not on a RR level.
Harrison was a homecoming of sorts. I lived there for 15 months in 2011 and 2012. Rolling into Harrison was a harsh reminder that time marches on unmercifully, at least to your memories. Things change, places that once were popular hangouts are now boarded up, but new construction everywhere. You can't live in the past, but it sure would be nice if you could every now and then.
So, anyways, further updates will be slow. I'm writing this at a campground in Badlands National Park in South Dakota, so I have no service to upload.
You can plan all you want to, but there are no shortages of wrenches that can be thrown into the works. The key is learning when to fold your plans for something new, or to stick to your guns.
Until next time:
The best laid routes of mice (or squirrels) and men....
Arkansas treated me just fine, like usual. It was hard to leave, I could have stayed another day or even a week. As I headed up Hwy 60, I was greeted with the familiar sights; Branson, Hollister, Ozark, and Lambert's Cafe. On a side note, there's a lady suing the “home of throwed rolls” for throwing a roll at her and hitting her in the face because she didn't catch it. If only they had signage indicating the dangerous possibility of airborne gluten bombs! Oh, wait. It's on the billboard. Carry on.
Honestly, I don't have a lot to share with you about this day. It was pretty uneventful, mostly just getting from the Ozarks to Nebraska which involved far too much Missouri. Nothing against Missouri, just that coming from the excitement that is the Ozarks, straight, flat roads can get a little boring.
For this post, I'll let the pictures do the talking. I don't have many pictures during the day, because I got a late start and had a lot of miles to put on.
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I believe this next picture sums up all of Midwest small town America into one photo.
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When I was taking this photo, a guy pulled up on his bike and asked if I was okay. When I told him I was taking pictures of the town, he said “Taking pictures of Union, Nebraska? You must be out your mind, there's nothing pictureworthy here.”
I beg to differ sir, I beg to differ.
Wildfires elsewhere have left a haze of smoke in the sky, which isn't great for breathing, but is great for sunsets!
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I finally arrived in Seward, NE at late thirty. I had to trek back about 2.5 miles on a gravel road. I thought riding that far on gravel was bad. But things were about to get much worse...
Takeaway of the day: Often, others can see beauty in things you cannot, because you are too familiar with said things. Sometimes it takes looking at the trees as a stranger to be able to see the forest.
Yup, cherish these times and you deffinatley have a great way with words...excellent write up..was laughing out loud about the squirrel. Enjoy it when you can, glad I did the same at your age starting in 84....remember it like yesterday. ...me safe and LOTS of photos bro. That picture is awesome
I stayed the night in Seward, NE. Refreshed after a good nights sleep, (which I needed after 495 miles the day before) I rode back on the gravel to pavedness. The air was a brisk 64 degrees, the birds were chirping, all the native wildlife was apparently hiding in the corn. Come to think of it, about all I could see was corn for the first 100 miles or so. I headed for Grand Island on I-80 and then took Nebraska 2 up through the Sandhills.
I stopped in Broken Bow at the Sandhills Visitor Information Center and had a delightful chat with the two ladies running the place. They paused from their card game to give me a brief history of the area and we compared notes on water tables in SC and NE and various other things. They had some pretty neat exhibits, including over 200 variations of barbed wire. I never knew there were so many types!
Allow me to get to the point (see what I did there? Point? Barbed wire? I've got that “just got up cleverness” surging through me). Nebraska is pretty cool. I never would have thought that I'd say it, the corn and farmland is okay I guess, but above Grand Island on Hwy 2, the Sandhills start and things get beautiful. Don't take my word for it, feast your eyes...
Well i am a reverse 25 and plan on doing a similar trip some day. What is great is you are doing this in your prime. You will only regret not doing the things you really want to do. Believing people who tell you you can't or shouldn't is a bad habit of us married family men. Told my wife eventually she will tire of playing wack a mole with my moto plans and join me or enjoy my absence.
Fantastic that your wife is going along with you. I imagine it is hard to be a passenger for so long. Crank that rear spring pre load up man. Front too. Carrying near max load with 2 riders and gear. Also keep the tire pressure up around 38 42 psi.
Watch for the fires as you head into Glacier NP, still a few going on. However, at last check, the Going to the Sun Road is open and is one of the top site and sights to see.
If you do make it north to Banff send me a PM. I'll come ride with you for the day and take you out to lunch in Canmore. Better get your move on. Our weather has been wacky this year and we've already had snow in the mountains two days ago (pretty unusual). The weather will probably be okay for riding (warm enough) until the end of September.
I saw your post on Advrider, too.
I rented a bike in Banff years ago, great ride, loved the scenery, wanted ore twistys but themoose and the heard of mountain goats was shomething I'll never forget.
That was the one bright spot in a not so hot morning. After I was all packed up, I checked the map again, and I was faced with a decision. Drive back the 8.5 miles of gravel I came down on the night before and then loop around 40 miles, or drive 13.5 miles of gravel and only be 15 miles out of the way. I chose the 13.5 miles of gravel. Whether that was the best choice or not, I don't know. In fact, I don't remember a whole lot of riding out on the gravel, probably because my subconscious has repressed that terrible hour. The rain really softened up the roads and the gravel was looser than ever. Finally, finally, finally I made it to pavement. I almost kissed that road. I made a promise right then and there to Vanessa not to take her down any more gravel on this trip. I intended on keeping it, I really did.
Finally back on pavement, I had a spot to park so that I could put my rain gear on, as it was drizzling the entire time I was on the gravel, but the road was too soft to park. When I was putting my overpants on, I brushed against the right side fairing and it moved several inches more than it should have. After closer inspection, both large fairing bolts on the right side were missing. I ended up just pulling one from the other side and just having one per side till I can find a Honda dealer that stocks the bolts and won't take 5-7 business days to get them. Gotta love being in Harley Country!
I decided then that if at least one thing was going to go right today, it'd have to be lunch. I rode to Rapid City in search of the mythical Pizza Ranch. I had visited once before and had a great time, and now I was going back.
The radar showed the rain coming in from the northwest, so I decided to ride down to the Mount Rushmore area and ride around to dodge the rain. Best decision ever. I had planned to ride the Black Hills, but they were not what I was expecting.
They were so much more...
After a quick dash down to Hermosa, I grabbed 36 to Custer State Park, from there hopping onto 16 Alt. I know it's a worn out expression, but do you remember being a child at Christmas? The sheer delight that came with Yuletide faded as I grew older, morphing into having more fun giving presents to others. Riding Hwy 16A, that supreme happiness overcame me once again. I'm man enough to admit catching myself giggling in my helmet like a group of 12 year old girls that stayed up a bit too late. I have a video I'll upload later. (of the road, not the giggling)
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The best part of the road had to be the one lane tunnels. Running north as I was, it was simply awe inspiring to see Mt Rushmore perfectly framed while coming through the tunnels. The V4 howled through the tunnels, although these roads are definitely scenic roads, not exactly twisties to be pushing hard on.
After 16A was finished, I rode Needles Highway back down towards Custer. No slouch of it's own, Needles is a fantastic road. The tunnel was simply spectacular.
From there through Custer and up US 385 to Lead and 14 Alt. This was a most spectacular route, winding through Spearfish Canyon with plenty of smooth 30 mph corners and wide shoulders with fantastic scenery and a lower temperature to boot.
I stopped when I saw a sign for Roughlock Falls. The catch? It was back a gravel road. Vanessa reminded me of the promise I made earlier in the day about no more gravel, but I told her that I have no place in my driveway for a bike that can't handle a tiny bit of gravel so that I can pursue my dreams and passions and go see a little waterfall, for crying out loud.
I won, what can I say, I'm a sucker for waterfalls. I was a little pressed for time and I didn't have time to set up a tripod, so I'm disappointed in the waterfall photo, but here it is anyways.
I stayed at Bell's Motor Lounge in Spearfish, SD. I highly recommend it. It was the only reasonably priced place in the area, plus the guy there turned me onto a place in town where I got a great supper, the Bay Leaf Cafe.
This is going to be a two for one report, from Spearfish, SD to Powell, WY and from Powell to Columbus, MT.
After leaving Bell's Motor Inn, I made tracks for Devil's Tower in Wyoming. The first thing I noticed is how much wildfire smoke hung in the air, hiding the mountains from sight. From my rough calculations, I would say that visibility was right at a mile and a half, basically really bad out West. Once I got into the mountains, the smoke persisted and visibility worsened. To help you understand this, picture a mountain. Now picture that mountain half hidden in smoke. Did that clear things up? No? Well, neither did the smoke.
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Devil's Tower was pretty neat, but it really was one of those things that can be admired from the parking lot, so that's what I did. I had a conversation with a guy parked next to me that was waiting on family to come back from a hike. This seemed to spark a chain of events down the road, but more on that later.
I stopped to watch the prairie dogs for a while, and when I was about to leave, the vehicle in front of me ran over one of the prairie dogs. They didn't notice, but when they walked back to their car, that dog must have went and hidden underneath. As its spleen was receiving a little more sunlight than it was used to, it lay gasping for breath and dying shortly. It kind of made me think that sometimes the actions we take to avoid something we fear can become more detrimental to us than just facing the fear itself.
I stopped for lunch about an hour down the road from Devil's Tower at Donna's Diner. As I was eating, Donna (I presume) and another customer were talking. The other woman mentioned that her brother was in trouble because he mowed down 18 cows with his semi because he wasn't paying attention. I didn't put too much stock into it, chalking it up to idle gossip and small town exaggeration, when who through the front door should walk, but the guy I had been talking to at Devil's Tower. Small world.
Back on the road, I-90, I was almost to Gillette when I passed two very distinctive vehicles; a black Chevy conversion van with green airbrushing and a Toyota Highlander pulling a neat little homemade travel trailer.
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Oh, the wonders of Interstate travel
From I90, I peeled off onto 14W and then onto 14A through the Bighorn National Forest. A simply wonderful ride. It cooled down from 93F to about 62F at the top. It was quite refreshing.
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Vanessa wanted to see, too...
All sorts of wildlife were out, unfortunately all of them were insects. What's the last thing to go through a bug's mind when it hits a VFR? It's butt.
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My parents were both teachers, so I developed the habit of picking out typos in signs at 70 MPH.
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Exhibit 1: Keep it classy, Wyoming
Coming down the mountain was equally thrilling.
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I arrived in Powell and set up my tent, and then in a risky maneuver, left it there and went into Cody to see what was up. Again, it seemed a bit too touristy and I headed back to Powell. What's crazy is that I saw those two exact vehicles that I had noticed earlier in Cody. I wouldn't have even seen the one, but I happened to go by right as they were pulling out of a lodge. A little coincidental?
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The city of Powell, WY has a very cool park arrangement. It is a combination rest stop, RV dumping station, city park and pool, has a designated free tent camping area, and to top it all off, WiFi. The tent camping area was spotless and had a picnic table and grill.
Second Day.
I packed up camp and headed for some breakfast. I had spotted the Skyline Cafe the night before and it looked just down my alley. I walk inside, typical small town diner. I perused the menu, noting all the typical breakfast fare, when something out of the ordinary for this South Carolinian caught my eye. Under the Omelet section, they had an Apple and Sausage omelet smothered with cheddar cheese. I waffled a bit, not sure if that was what I was looking for, but then decided, I'm on a trip, I'll take the risk. When it came out, I bit into it hesistantly, but it was not bad at all. I would have used a bit more cinnamon in the apples and maybe a different kind of sausage, but overall, not bad at all.
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What I love the most about small town diners is just sitting back and people watching, both the tourists and the regulars. Partway through my unusually fruit laden omelet, a man walked that could have summed up small town America. Blue jeans, boots, button down shirt, trucker hat. He was greeted with a chorus of “Hey, Glen” from the wait staff and sat down at his usual spot as they fixed him the regular. He and another local started talking and my ears perked up when I heard that the topic involved cattle being mowed down by a semi. The other guy talking to Glen was saying that he was second on the scene of a semi mowing down a whole herd of cows and hitting the car of one of those “terrist” girls. The woman at Donna's Diner, hundreds of miles away was right, and here I was listening to these locals talk about the incident when me, some random guy from out of many states, had just happened to meet the guilty party's sister the day before. Crazy stuff. It turned out to be 16 cattle dead at the time of writing, and they had to bring the plowtrucks out to scrape off the cow guts and feces enough to open one lane. I'm including the article here:
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Glen and I talked a while, then I headed off towards Cody where I hit up a Tractor Supply and found some bolts and washers to temporarily replace the ones that were taken by the South Dakota gravel road tax. Leaving Cody, I headed up Chief Joseph Highway. Man, what an incredible ride up! At the top, I met two gentlemen travelling from Georgia. We left within a day of eachother and have some similar destinations, so who knows, we might meet again. They were riding an unusual coupling of a Victory bagger and a Kawi C14.
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Coming down Chief Joseph was another story. Soooo much loose gravel. I've never seen a road that bad. I was descending at under 20 MPH and still had quite a few times when the front wheel slipped out quite a bit more than I would have preferred it to. Thankfully, halfway down, it cleared up and things were all downhill (which is good) from there.
Cuttting right onto 212, or Beartooth Highway, I gained some serious elevation in a short amount of time, topping out at 10,974 ft and a temperature drop from 91F to 51F. The wind was pretty crazy at the top, and I parked and went climbing on some rock piles for a good picture. 15 minutes of making my way through and up the rocks, I pulled out my camera only to see the low battery light come on, and it immediately going comatose. Luckily, I had my phone on me, but the picture quality just isn't justice.
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The smoke from the day before had pretty much been driven away with northerly winds and I could see for miles. There's still some ice up there in the mountains, but I didn't plan on getting closer to ice than I absolutely had to. I rode down in a hurry since it was beginning to rain and with the high winds, the rain felt much worse. One really cool thing is that I got behind a camper from Switzerland. It was like a Toyota Prado, a manual diesel Land Cruiser sort of deal with a snorkel, just like the ones in Nicaragua. Color me jealous.
After a quick bite to eat in Red Lodge. I headed north, but didn't make it very far before the rain hit. With the rain, came the wind. I was having to hold my bike from coming off the kickstand, the wind was so heavy. When I finally got all suited up, the rain quit a quarter mile down the road, as rain is a fickle thing and only takes pleasure in making riders suffer. Or something like that.
I'm now staying at Itch-kep-pe Park in Columbus, Montana. Heading for Glacier tomorrow.
Todays Takeaway: You really should look out for cows.
It all started so innocent, so bright, such an unassuming day. The wind rustled through the trees, Yellowstone River a stone's throw away (if you can throw 900 ft) was gurgling contentedly and fellow campers dropping by to shoot the breeze. My mood had lifted from the windy, tiring day before and things were looking good. I warmed up some breakfast (Campbell's chicken and dumplings if you must know) and went down to the river just to sit, think, and take a few photos.
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Leaving Columbus, I90 was pretty much the only thing on the schedule that day. My rear tire was getting pretty worn down, so I figured Missoula was my best option for finding a replacement for said tire. Around the time I hit Bozeman, I too was hit. Hit with the realization that I didn't remember pulling the keys out of the side case when I left Columbus. I searched everything on the bike and myself. No dice. Which was a bummer, because now I can't play Yahtzee. Also, I found no keys.
Luckily I had one spare key for my clothing case, so the only case I couldn't get into was the one holding all my bedding stuff; air mattress, pillow, sleeping bag, stack of reading material and so on. In other words, I needed in there, but as I was getting a motel in Missoula, it wasn't critically urgent. More about that motel later.
I stopped for lunch in Bozeman at Clark's Fork. Pretty neat place, its a cafe decorated with excerpts from Lewis and Clark's journals taken out of context to advertise their menu items. Novel idea. I had the Southwest breakfast burrito (yes, breakfast for lunch. I love breakfast. I will not apologize for that. If I ever decide to run for President, my platform will be on breakfast menus being served all day long).
The burrito was good, the freshly fried chips were even better.
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Grinding down I90 once again, things were going well. Well, until Butte, that is. After riding through Butte, the wind got crazy. If you've never ridden in high winds, especially crosswinds, allow me to give you an example. Say you're sitting in an office chair. Now imagine a midget standing behind you, or a regular height person crouching if you'd rather. Now whichever person you chose grabs your head and shakes it up and down, side to side with varying force and intensity for 3 hours. Got that? Good, now imagine that your office chair suddenly gets jerked 4 feet to the side randomly. That is how high winds do.
There were several times I was blown a lane over, despite steering into the wind. You have to stay alert, looking for trees bent over, etc to point out the really windy spots so that you can take early action. After about 3 hours of this, I was sick and tired of the wind. What could make things better? How about some rain? How about the bike sputters, coughs and shuts off? How about all of the above?
Out of gas. At 180 miles, I usually have between .75 to 1 gal of gas remaining. Fighting the winds must really have sucked some fuel down. The fuel gauge that had been showing 3 bars jumped straight to empty.
I called my insurance company for roadside assistance, and I figured it'd take a while, being Montana. Boy, was I right. The initial text said an ETA of 75 minutes. The closest available truck was in Ronan, while I was 11 miles east of Missoula. I was 11 miles away. 11 miles away from my warm, dry motel, that long hot shower I longed for, and the laundry service that I also direly needed.
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It ended up being over 2 hours of sitting in the rain, 50 degree temps and high winds before help arrived. And then came the cops. Apparently as I sat propped up against the mile marker sign, trying to stay dry and eating beef jerky, someone phoned 911 and said I was slumped over my bike, so a Missoula County Sheriff came out to check on me. When he realized that I was fine and that the truck had just shown up to bring me fuel, we talked for a while, he wished me luck on my trip and left. One of the flyest cops I've ever met.
It turns out that the service truck had been in Polson when he got dispatched to me. That explained the longer wait, but I was glad to be finally going again, thanking myself for paying that $5 a year for roadside coverage. When I pulled into my motel, I had two things on my mind. Bed and a hot shower. But first, I needed to get my laundry going. I had selected this particular establishment based on their advertisal of having a 24hr coin op laundry. Well, in keeping with the day, it was out of order despite the LED billboard out front loudly boasting it's existence. I rode around town trying to find a 24 hour laundromat, but all the laundromats closed at 9PM. Ridiculous. I ate McDonalds out of spite and went to bed in my nonsmoking room that reeked of smoke. So goes it.
Today's Takeaway: That light at the end of the tunnel? It's a train.
I had to snicker and sympathize with your comments about VFR versus gravel roads ...I got lots of streaks in my shorts a few years ago when I rode my 6thgen to Alaska through the Yukon and northern BC....for typical 20 or 30 mile ride segments of that trip on rocks..pebbles loose dirt and wet clay ...front goes left/back goes right...then front goes right/back goes left ...repeat ...
all in good fun ...but I decided that my riding goals and destinations required a different bike...thus the 2015 WeeStrom650AXEXPL ...
Upon regaining consciousness from a (not long enough) night's sleep, I spent most of the morning calling all the motorcycle shops and dealers in the Missoula area looking for a rear tire. The same story everywhere, “That's not a Harley size, we don't have anything like that.” Even the Honda dealer would have had to order the tire at a ridiculous price and it would have meant staying in Missoula for several more days which was NOT on the top, middle, or bottom of my list. I was growing a strong dislike for Missoula, and in fact, only one thing keeps it from being right up there with New Jersey on the “actively avoid” list. That one thing being the breakfast I had at a small local diner.
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I had the Ham Scramble and it was pretty good. Looking around the diner, I noticed that the diner sponsored a local high school trap shooting team. My kinda place. I finally found a place that had a tire and for a reasonable price, but I had to ride 50 miles south to Hamilton, MT to get it. Thankfully, there was a laundromat there and I dropped off my clothes prior to tearing down the bike at the dealer. Strangely enough, it ended up being a Yamaha dealer, Al's Cycles that had the correct size and the tire I wanted (Michelin Pilot Road 4) and were able to balance a single sided swingarm wheel.[image: IMAG0663_zps4cft8xy4.jpg]
Finally, at 3:30 PM, the tire was on, I picked up my now clean laundry and things were looking up. I had to ride right through Missoula on the way to my campsite, ugh. Riding up to Polson, MT was pretty uneventful.
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Nice view of Flathead Lake
I've been using freecampsites.net for locating free or cheap camp sites. It's worked great so far. Until today. I rode around Lake Flathead to Finley Point, a long peninsula out into the lake. Riding back in on the (terrible) pavement, I came across several deer. They were completely fearless, I even had to wait for one to mosy it's way across the road with me honking my (feeble) horn to spur it on. When I rounded one corner, there was a fawn that was either really spooked or stupid as a bag of rocks. He was facing a high fence, backing up several feet and then charging the fence head first and every time, he only made it up to his neck then got flung back by the fence. I stopped and shut the bike off to make sure that I wasn't spooking him into doing it, but he persisted. I made a wide berth around him and continued down the road looking for this mythical free campground. After a complete loop of the land, I came across Finley Point State Park, but they wanted to charge $28 for one tent site. Ridiculous!
The site had said there was a free campground. I rode around looking for it for another 15 minutes or so and finally stopped to ask a local where it was. Apparently, it had been taken over by the state park. I was faced with the choice of riding back to Polson and paying $80 for a motel room, riding 80 plus miles to the nearest free campground at dusk already, or suck it up and pay $28 for camping in a 10 acre state park. I chose to stay at the state park, but they couldn't make me be happy about it. I can see spending that kind of money to camp at a popular or majestic park like Glacier, but a 10 acre state park? Crazy. At least I saw a decent sunset over Lake Flathead.
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Today's Takeaway: Sometimes, a lack of options leads to a lack of wallet thickness, but you don't have to like it.
So far, Montana hadn't made the greatest of impressions, but expectations were high, because today I'd tour Glacier National Park. Glacier is one of the main reasons I wanted to make this trip, so I was really looking forward to it, and boy, it didn't let me down!
I packed up camp back on Flathead Lake, retrieved my food from the bear lockers (first time using those), and set out heading north. It was a pretty uneventful ride to Glacier. I stopped just outside the park for a drink and a snack. The gas station had a wide assortment of chips in various flavors I'd never heard of before, including Cheddar and Beer, Thai flavoring, and Bacon and Maple. I tried the Bacon and Maple chips and they were actually pretty decent!
I headed into the park from the west side on advice from the guys at the diner in Wyoming. They said the best views are had from riding from west to east, and I believe I'd have to agree with them. I was a bit underwhelmed at first, wondering when the climb started. The river was beautiful and all, but following umpteen tour buses needed more than a river to keep my attention. When the climb started, things got dramatic quick. The air was crisp, the wildfire smoke mostly gone. Other than the sometimes monotone rambling drifting out of the open top tour buses, I was left with the sounds of Nature; the wind, the birds, the river, and of course that V4 melody.
Until I rode through Glacier, I dismissed the phrase “jaw-dropping” as a figure of speech. What would compel someone's jaw to hang slack, I asked? It made no sense. Until it did. I don't really know how to describe it, other than coming around a corner and feeling like you've just been gut punched with beauty. Riding on, slack-jawed, every corner offered a new vista, each one a unique view of the majesty that lies within the park.
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Leaving the park (regretfully), I headed north for Alberta. I took Chief Mountain Hwy and the difference could not have been more stark between America and Canada's sides. On America's side, crap. Crap everywhere. Free range cattle lounging on the road, defecating, and sometimes bleeding to death judging by some stains in the road. Canada side? Spotless. Numerous scenic pulloffs with restrooms and tidy parking.
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This was my first time in Canada, so getting through the Border took a little longer, but very straightfoward. It wasn't long and I was at Waterton National Park. Inside the park is Waterton Village a small town of approximately 100 year round residents. There were several restaurants, shops, and so forth. I set up my campsite, then went into town for a little food.
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I chose Wieners of Waterton. Best hot dog ever. It had everything and the kitchen sink on it, and then they offered to add crumbled chips on top, so why not? Not to mention the amazing sweet potato fries with chipotle mayo sauce. The workers were very friendly and welcoming. The fact that the US dollar is a little more powerful these days helped too. Canada gets my vote!
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That evening, right before I bedded down, two bikes rolled into camp. I went to talk to the riders and it turns out they were from California heading for Banff NP like I was. They were riding a brand new Indian Scout and an older but good looking Honda CB900C.
Today's Takeaway: Pictures might be worth a thousand words, but being there, being silent, and soaking in your surroundings is worth unbelievably much more.
Boy the weather here has definitely taken a turn the last few days. It's supposed to be nice tomorrow. Let me know if you'd like an escort/riding buddy on the holiday Monday. If not, enjoy the rest of your trip. I too, have noticed the change at the border each time - Glacier is spectacular. Make sure to go up the Icefields Parkway, visit Moraine Lake or Lake Louise before you move on. If you're heading West - Highway 40 through Kananaskis is a worthwhile way to get back to highway 22 and over to highway 3 (Crowsnest Pass).
Boy the weather here has definitely taken a turn the last few days. It's supposed to be nice tomorrow. Let me know if you'd like an escort/riding buddy on the holiday Monday. If not, enjoy the rest of your trip. I too, have noticed the change at the border each time - Glacier is spectacular. Make sure to go up the Icefields Parkway, visit Moraine Lake or Lake Louise before you move on. If you're heading West - Highway 40 through Kananaskis is a worthwhile way to get back to highway 22 and over to highway 3 (Crowsnest Pass).
I'm kind of behind on reports right now, I'm actually in Oregon right now.
Oat and Aboot in Canada
Waterton has a great campground. The shower was nice and warm on a chilly morning. Actually, it wasn't too chilly, it was low 50's. I'm sure that number is lower in Celsius, but I can't be bothered right now to convert it. Actually, when I was in Canada, I had a ton of fun. I absolutely love doing math in my head, and having to do all the metric conversions on the fly was a blast, along with figuring out what prices came to in “real money.” I gave up at gas stations, though.
Packing up my tent, I was somehow hungry again, so I headed back to Wieners of Waterton for a breakfast dog. The dog consisted of sausage, egg, cheese, onions, peppers, salsa, and a bit of sriracha. Great stuff! Heading out of Waterton, the plan was Banff National Park. I decided to come in from the west side, which meant going over Crowsnest Pass.
When I stopped for gas in Crowsnest Pass, the guy behind the counter advised against going to Banff. I knew it was cold, but I didn't realize that it was already down to 41 degrees and raining in Crowsnest Pass and Banff was several hours north yet. I pulled up the forecast and I saw something I didn't exactly relish, snow. That sealed it, one of the things I had been looking forward to the most, Banff, was off. Instead of going back through Waterton, I pushed on into the storm over Crowsnest Pass. It was cold. It was rainy. I think I've suppressed the rest of the memories from that stretch.
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This tree has marked the beginning of the Pass for years, but it died in 1971. Wind got the best of it later, so now its anchored with metal rods.
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In what's left of the town of Frank, there was a monument to the buried town. In the middle of the night in 1903, a chunk of limestone over a kilometer wide, 425 meters long and over 100 meters deep broke loose off of the mountain and cascaded onto the sleeping mining town of Frank, burying most of it and sending 70 people to their deaths. Ironically, those working the night shift in the mines were able to tunnel out. The rocks have been unmoved since then, and in a sign of Canadian respect, I was very glad to see absolutely no graffiti on the rocks.
I stopped in Sparwood, BC for lunch. Because I just needed to eat and run and hopefully have WiFi, I chose the local A&W. The Canadians have a fascination with maple flavoring, with which I am totally on board. I had the Maple Chipotle Bacon burger which was really good, and guess what? They offered sweet potato fries with chipotle mayo sauce. I'm digging it.
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Sparwood advertised having the “World's Largest Truck.” I don't know about the World's Largest, but it was big! What blew my mind was the engine took 287 gallons of oil.
Dropping down through Fernie back into these United States, I passed through the border once more. The American side was quite a bit more thorough in their interrogation. Nothing like making you feel irrationally guilty for having done nothing wrong.
Once in the US of A again, I was riding down 37, when I decided to be a little adventurous and cross Lake Koocanusa (terribly unoriginal name, by the way) and ride the length of it on National Forest Service Road 228. This was awesome. I had the road to myself for the best part of 42 miles.
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I passed one or two Forestry trucks in that time, but other than that, the road was my personal playground. It was on this road that I saw the most American scene that I've personally witnessed.
I'm on a extended motorcycle trip across America, camping along the way, riding a forest service road above a beautiful lake. Sheer rock wall to my right, freight train chugging along on the other side of the lake, when a bald eagle swooped down into the lake and had takeout sushi. Amazing stuff.
Moments like this have been branded “Kodak moments” for a little older age or GoPro moments for today, but I argue that it's a memory moment. I'm glad that I wasn't distracted by a camera, trying to capture the scene, but instead was able to view it unimpeded by a need to capture and share it with others. I'm the only one who saw that scene, and while I can try to describe it to you, there's a certain romantic notion in the fact that it will live in my memory only. I feel that so much of today's world is being captured to share with others that we miss out on the moments ourselves or that we allow what we think would be a great shareable media (picture, video, Vine, etc) to force our hand into doing something that we think would be popular rather than just enjoying and living in that moment. In the end, I'd rather have a vivid memory of a scene than a hasty photograph. Despite that, I feel that ride reports are a vital part of travel. I find it's a great time for reflection on the past days and can help prolong memories.
I had to cut a U turn when I saw a swinging bridge. I went for a short quick hike back to Kootenai Falls and the swinging bridge.
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Just incredibly beautiful. I rode on until it got dark and I realized I wouldn't make it to the campground, so I grabbed a room in Trout Creek, Montana.
Today's Takeaway: Live for the moment, not to capture it.
Welcome to my "neck of the woods" SC. Beautiful terrain for riding in these parts...There's cold pops in the fridge if'n you want to ride up into Canukistan...30 miles north of Bonners Ferry. .
Things looked pretty good, if a little chilly, leaving Trout Creek. I rode with a mission, a passion, if you will, called breakfast. The lady at the motel had recommended Minnie's Cafe in Thompson Falls, so that's where I headed. She had warned that the omelets were great, but were almost bigger than the plate. She didn't lie.
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What she didn't say was that the plates were also larger than normal. I ain't even mad. The omelet was great and the home fries even better. A great start to a mediocre day.
I headed down 200 to Missoula (again) and then south to Lolo. Somewhere between Thompson Falls and Missoula, a steady rain began. The clouds hung low all day, although on the mountains, I don't mind.
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There's really not a whole lot to report on this stretch. When I got to Lolo, I obviously took the Lolo Pass into Idaho.
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Wet, wet, wet. I'm sure this road can be a lot of fun when it's dry, I mean I had some fun when it was really wet. I'm just really grateful for the exceptional wet grip of the PR3/PR4 tires.
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It was beautiful, especially with the low clouds/fog.
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After the Pass, I started looking for a place to camp, but because of wildfire activity, all of the National Forest campgrounds were closed. I did something I promised myself I wouldn't do on this trip. I camped at a KOA in Kamiah, ID. This one wasn't bad as far as KOAs go, pretty quiet because they had just opened back up after having been evac'd for the fire.
I rode into Kamiah for some grub and ended up at a Mexican restaurant whose name I cannot remember. I had the Taquitos Fritos, which were decent, but hey, Idaho is pretty far removed from Mexico.
Today's Takeaway: I could just start wearing my rain suit by default.
The morning dawned like clockwork, no more like dish detergent. I am no morning person, but being awake and ready for a full day of riding is the nearest to bubbly to which I'll come. The birds twittered cheerfully, or since I'm at a KOA, the bird sound clips twittered digitally over the hidden speakers in the trees. Another day of adventure beckoned.
Rolling back through Kamiah, I headed towards Lewiston. It really was a beautiful morning. Lewiston arrived with a minimum of fuss and talking with a couple of BMW riders, I decided to drop through Hell's Canyon down to Enterprise. What a fantastic road! Climbing out of Washington, the road just cut back and forth on itself like a high score in Snake. Crossing into Oregon didn't dull things, either. Just a great rider's road with beautiful scenery to boot.
The one downside was that it went down to one lane and the delay was about 15 minutes of sitting in the hot sun. I always feel sorry for the flagman (person). That job would not work for this guy!. Boredom would kick in, I'd give the waiting dtivers a coin toss and hand them a lance for a little one lane jousting.
Arriving in Enterprise, OR, the clouds loomed ominously and rain was starting to come down to my level. What a great time to get lunch and wait out the rain. I chose Thai Enterprise. I had the Pineapple Fried Rice and it was delicious. More about this place in a later report.
Once fed, I exited to find the rain clouds now fleeing in terror back to the mountains. I headed down to Joseph to check out Lake Wallowa and met the couple on BMW's I had spoken to in Lewiston. Enterprise and Joseph were both pretty cool cities, Joseph was a bit too touristy for me, but Enterprise had a very honest feel to it.
Oregon agrees with me. I absolutely love all the older vehices still being driven, especially as work trucks. I met plumbers driving clean old Ford F100s, contractors pulling trailers with straight old Chevy C20s, numerous Chevy LUV's (I have a special affinity for small pickups), and all sorts of 80's cars still on the road. I've nothing against the 50's and 60's classics that everyone else seems to prefer, but a 57 Chevy and a 67 Camaro are starting to feel a bit cliched to me. I love 70s and 80s cars and trucks. A Chevette? Sure. AMC Gremlin? Saw one and was jealous. Chrysler Newport? Well, I don't have my CDL.
Leaving Joseph, I headed over to La Grande, where I rode through Lehman Springs down into the Umatilla National Forest. My original plan had been to make it down to John Day to camp, but waiting out the rain burned too much daylight. At one point. I realized that I needed gas within 30 miles or so and the nearest gas station was 40 miles away, so I had to backtrack about 12 miles to one I had passed in Dale. When I got to the Dale station, it was closed, and had been since 5:00 PM. I sat outside the station for a while wondering what to do, when the owner of the station kindly walked down from his house, pumped me some gas (no self service in Oregon. Why? Not even the gas attendants know), and gave me a postcard and a short history of the gas station which had been open since 1921, I believe.
It was definitely too dark to make it to John Day now, so I had to backtrack another 15 miles to the Ukiah campground. It began to rain and cool off fast. It was quite the night, sleeping in a wet tent with the rain pouring down at a low temp of 33F.
Today's Takeaway: Oregon is alright (when it's warm)
I stopped at that same place your bike is for photos this summer (mine weren't nearly as good though). Isn't that a fantastic road? A total curve-fest . . :woohoo: If you're heading West still, you should be relatively dry on the East side of the Cascades tomorrow - Wednesday steady rain is moving in on the West side of the mountains toward I-5, with some showers probable in Central Oregon. There have been tremendous fires in the John Day area - expect you'll see a lot of scorched Earth in the vincinity. It starts drying out / warming up on Thursday and should be in the high 70's to low 80's statewide by the weekend. If you can work your way to Fossil (gas available there) and then to Antelope (no gas) heading West, that's also a great road.
Forgot - on the no self service gas thing. It's an archaic law passed in 1951 that still exists today. Attempts have been made to change it but failed. There are many exceptions. You can pump your own Diesel, though some stations don't know it. If you own a business and have an account at a card lock you can enjoy self service there. You can also pump your own gas in a town of 40,000 or less between 6 p.m. and 6 a.m. (unless they start yelling). No kidding - the governor just signed it recently. Why it's safe for those 12 hours and not the other 12 only our morons in government know. Motorcycles can pump their own 24 hours only if the attendant hands the nozzle to you. That one is so over the top ridiculous that most just leave you alone. They will on occasion ask if you know how to operate the pump. I replied to that once "yeah, I took a class at community college on how to do it." Shut him right up. It's such a stupid, bizarre set of laws that sometimes I'm embarrassed to admit that I live here.
Forgot - on the no self service gas thing. It's an archaic law passed in 1951 that still exists today. Attempts have been made to change it but failed. There are many exceptions. You can pump your own Diesel, though some stations don't know it. If you own a business and have an account at a card lock you can enjoy self service there. You can also pump your own gas in a town of 40,000 or less between 6 p.m. and 6 a.m. (unless they start yelling). No kidding - the governor just signed it recently. Why it's safe for those 12 hours and not the other 12 only our morons in government know. Motorcycles can pump their own 24 hours only if the attendant hands the nozzle to you. That one is so over the top ridiculous that most just leave you alone. They will on occasion ask if you know how to operate the pump. I replied to that once "yeah, I took a class at community college on how to do it." Shut him right up. It's such a stupid, bizarre set of laws that sometimes I'm embarrassed to admit that I live here.
Yeah, most places just handed me the nozzle. The last place, the attendant was not so attentive, just standing there not doing anything, looking straight at me as I was waiting. I swiped my card. No response. I filled the bike and only after I hung the nozzle back up, he says in a very condescending voice, "I'll have you know, you just broke Oregon state law and you could be fined."
I told him, "I'll have you know, that I was doing your job because you wouldn't. Besides, not stopping me from pumping my own gas, you're an accessory to the crime of self service. Good day"
Can't pump your own here in NJ either, but I've never had an attendant give me attitude like that while on the VFR. They all hand me the nozzle to fill. Never been an issue.
SCguyYeah, most places just handed me the nozzle. The last place, the attendant was not so attentive, just standing there not doing anything, looking straight at me as I was waiting. I swiped my card. No response. I filled the bike and only after I hung the nozzle back up, he says in a very condescending voice, "I'll have you know, you just broke Oregon state law and you could be fined."
I told him, "I'll have you know, that I was doing your job because you wouldn't. Besides, not stopping me from pumping my own gas, you're an accessory to the crime of self service. Good day"
Not to derail an otherwise great thread but does anyone know the reason for not allowing drivers/riders to pump their own gas? When I was a kid, you had two options here in California, full service and self service, now it's predominately if not exclusively, self service.
Warmth. Dryness. Comfort. A crackling fire. A sizzling steak.
This is a list of things I did not have camping at Ukiah in Oregon. Having to set up my tent in the rain with not much tree cover, the inside was soaked. Thankfully, my air mattress is thick enough to keep me off of the wet tent floor. Morning came eventually, welcome for the daylight, unwelcome for rain still pummeling my immediate area. Once I juiced my tent and packed everything as quickly as I could, still in the rain, I waded my way back to the bike and set off once more, fording my way back to US 395. Turning south again, I passed the station at Dale, then continued onto Long Creek, there turning onto 402.
Things started changing up on 402, less “woodsy” and more sandy. This was a welcome change, because the forests of Oregon more or less looked like the forests of Idaho and Montana. In another welcome change, the sun was released from captivity and the rain and the roads dried up.
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I didn't catch it on this picture, but there were about 20 cows crossing this bridge when I first came upon it.
Once I passed through Monument, the roads even became fun! Low brush meant it was easy to set up a corner, as I had a good sight line through it.
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Fun was had all the way to Fossil. Fossil is a neat little town. I rolled down the road a bit to the John Day Fossil Beds. I was on my way up the trail to see if I could spy any fossils when I stumbled across this previously undiscovered fossil.
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Buried just beneath the surface, it was a chance find, but it is obviously the well preserved trachea of a brontosaurus. Unfortunately, it's not public land, so I couldn't excavate it, strap it to the VFR and sell it to the Smithsonian for enough money to buy all of Oregon. What rotten luck.
While I was examining my find, a flash of red caught my eye, and that happened to be Scott? (I'm terrible with names) on his BMW R100. We talked a while and then went our separate ways.
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Riding through Antelope was pretty neat, as I had been reading about the Rajneesh cult and how the town for a period of time in the 80's was named Rajneeshpuram. Before my time, but hard to believe that happened. Read up on the Rajneesh cult history, if you haven't. It's rather fascinating.
I headed up into Shaniko, where I stopped at a small store to purchase a can of Coke, lean against the bike, and soak in my dusty, Western, almost ghost town surroundings. Refreshed, (no, I haven't been bought off by Coca-Cola, although, Coke, if you're reading this, I'm all for it!), I set up towards The Dalles, on an amazing road. What a brilliant road! Great pavement, curves, elevation, scenery. This stretch has it all!
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Once out of that stretch, things got flat, straight, and windy pretty quick. Pro tip: if there are hundreds of wind power plants, you're in for a windy time.
In Bigg's Junction, I was filling up when who should show up, but Scott(?) again on his BMW.\
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I crossed the Columbia River over to Washington, then rode alongside the river.
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Simply beautiful.
The Dalles was the location of the largest bioterror attack in US history. The aforementioned Rajneesh cult was running for 2 of 3 county seats and decided to keep people in The Dalles (the largest population in Wasco County) from voting by poisining the salad bars in 10 restaurants with salmonella. 751 people were affected, none died, thankfully, but the attack had the opposite effect, in that the non cultish people turned out in droves to vote against the cult members.
Riding down the road, I noticed a freight train on the Oregon side seemed to be taunting me into a race. Not wanting to back down from a challenger that was only several thousand feet longer than me, I accepted. It was a close battle, I would get a nice straight stretch and pull ahead, the train had the shortest distance, no traffic to worry about, and more or less straight tracks. I, on the other hand, had the power of the V4. Crossing the bridge back to the Oregon side, things looked close, and I was parked at my motel walking into the office when the train came rolling by. The train, obviously enthused, said nothing but WOOOOOOO, but I knew he knew he was no match for the Honda, no matter how much he tried to mask his feelings.
Today's Takeaway: Don't eat the salmonella colored salad.
What a great ride report, excellent pics and commentary. Definitely a nice addition to your life experience portfolio :biggrin:
I was but a lad during the Rajneesh in Oregon period, remember it well from the headlines of the day. The compound is still there, you can ride to it if you don't mind a little gravel and dirt road riding. Here's a linky to a ride I made there a couple of summers ago (a very informative video link in the RR as well).
I'm really enjoying reading about your trip. Thanks for sharing your experience and making it so fun to read. Something about long trips via Motorcycle allows you to be much more connected to the experience. Only problem is you'll want to do a bigger trip next time around. Not such a bad thing I guess. I did a 8 day trip a couple years back and could have keep going.
Forgot - on the no self service gas thing. It's an archaic law passed in 1951 that still exists today. Attempts have been made to change it but failed. There are many exceptions. You can pump your own Diesel, though some stations don't know it. If you own a business and have an account at a card lock you can enjoy self service there. You can also pump your own gas in a town of 40,000 or less between 6 p.m. and 6 a.m. (unless they start yelling). No kidding - the governor just signed it recently. Why it's safe for those 12 hours and not the other 12 only our morons in government know. Motorcycles can pump their own 24 hours only if the attendant hands the nozzle to you. That one is so over the top ridiculous that most just leave you alone. They will on occasion ask if you know how to operate the pump. I replied to that once "yeah, I took a class at community college on how to do it." Shut him right up. It's such a stupid, bizarre set of laws that sometimes I'm embarrassed to admit that I live here.
That's fascinating. Weird, but fascinating. When I first rode through Oregon many years ago I pulled into a large, busy gas station (can't remember where) and up to an empty pump. Thinking nothing of it, I swiped my credit card, the pump verified the card and let me choose the grade of gas--as usual. I filled the bike and was putting my helmet on when a guy with the station's logo on his golf shirt materialized.
"Did you help yourself?" he asks cheerily.
"Why yes, thanks."
"You know, you could be fined $500 for that." He points up to a placard mounted high above the pumps that explains Oregon's full serve only law. Guess I got off easy.
I've ridden through Oregon many times since. I just pull up to a pump, get the bike ready, my card out and wait. The attendant invariably swipes the card, selects the fuel grade I specify and hands me the pump. Sometimes they're on hand to hang it up and hand you the receipt. Had a nice chat about bikes with an attendant (in Pendleton, OR) while I was filling up on my way home from SumSum. Nice work if you can get it. :laugh2:
To get back to the point--great photos and ride report SCguy!
The Dalles was a nice enough area, but I try not to hang around too long at a place where a room at Day's Inn is over $250 a night. I had picked the cheapest motel I could find, and it was still $90. Leaving the hotel, the radar looked clear, but it was very overcast and foggy. I headed up the Historic Columbia River Highway, which was wet, but beautiful. So much better than hopping on I84.
Once I got through Rowena, things got fun. The Rowena Loops, as I believe they're called, were a great, if short, set of switchbacks and views of,well, fog. The skies couldn't make up their mind whether they wanted to open the floodgates, shut them, or just let a few drops through here and there.
Riding up to Panorama Point State Park, I was hoping to get above the fog a bit to catch a glimpse of Mt Hood.
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I'm sure it's in there somewhere. I decided to ride the loop down around Mt Hood to see if I could see it closer up. What I actually ended up seeing was miles and miles of heavy rain and fog with visibility slightly further than a cat can vomit. No, really, it was down to about 200 ft. I never saw Mt Hood, just the temperature dropping down to 41 and the rain pick up. I don't mind riding in rain, but riding in rain in slow traffic is no favorite of mine. At one point, there were 10 of us vehicles stuck behind a Subaru Forester doing 15-20 mph. I'm from SC, where seing a Subaru is about as rare as seeing 13 small children riding a yak through the McDonalds drive through. I've noticed that there are two types of Subaru drivers, excluding the WRX/STi guys. There are the Subies covered in bumper stickers about coexisting, treehugging, etc, going 10 or more under the speed limit. Then there are the drivers putting all their faith in AWD and driving 15-20 MPH over the limit.
Once I got through Portland, the rain slowed, then stopped, as I headed for the coast. Not a whole lot to report between Portland and the coast, so here's a few pic to finish out this installment.
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World's Shortest River
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I rode down US 101 to Florence, where I camped. It was a beautiful night. I knew I was not on an East Coast beach as shown by the Warning- Elk signs along the beachfront.
Your pic of Mt Hood brought back memories of my trip a couple years ago. Cold wet and no mountain in sight. You've probably already past thorough OR but keep an eye on tribal police they like to enforce the 55mph limit when going through reservations. Another benefit of having a radar detector! If your going to be passing through Reno or any of the Sierra Nevada mtns let me know, I could give you some great suggestions.
Well, all good things must come to an end. I rolled into home last night. New longest day, coming from Gulfport, MS. 656 miles and just so cracking the 10k mile mark on the trip.
I apologize for the lack of updates, but Friday was the only day this week I didn't ride 500 miles or more, so I was tuckered out.
No stops, no drops, only like 1 closeish call. Almost too perfect.
I'll continue to write the ride reports through completion.
Well, all good things must come to an end. I rolled into home last night. New longest day, coming from Gulfport, MS. 656 miles and just so cracking the 10k mile mark on the trip.
I apologize for the lack of updates, but Friday was the only day this week I didn't ride 500 miles or more, so I was tuckered out.
No stops, no drops, only like 1 closeish call. Almost too perfect.
I'll continue to write the ride reports through completion.
Congratulations, boss!
And your summary sounds pretty close to the nightly toast the wife and I do on our mo-mo trips:
"Here's to no tickets, no crashes, no fatalities. Cheers!"
Well, all good things must come to an end. I rolled into home last night. New longest day, coming from Gulfport, MS. 656 miles and just so cracking the 10k mile mark on the trip.
I apologize for the lack of updates, but Friday was the only day this week I didn't ride 500 miles or more, so I was tuckered out.
No stops, no drops, only like 1 closeish call. Almost too perfect.
I'll continue to write the ride reports through completion.
Camping from a bike sure seemed to be against the norm in America, with most campsites being filled with houses on wheels with what looked to be more attached baggage than that which little beast of burden airport mini trucks are laden worldwide. I observed the campsite as land barges came and went. Partly envious, partially disgusted at the excess, but more often than not, appreciative that families were out enjoying this beautiful country we are blessed to occupy. Through the evening, the crackling fires, the shrieks of children startling one another in a late night game of hide and seek, and the night creatures rustling through the woods served to remind me of the wonders that are camping, even if setting up and tearing down camp each day gets old.
Leaving the campground, I headed down into Florence, OR. Nearly there, the truck in front of me started motioning my direction and pulled over. I just figured they were letting me pass, so I gave them the customary wave and continued on my way, grateful for those that do actually pull over. In my mirror, I catch glances of the truck swerving back into the road, accelerating rapidly, closing the gap and flashing it's lights. I pulled off to the side of the road, only to have the occupants of said truck deliver a verbal exclamation awakening the innate primal fear that lurks deep within every motorcyclist, the day they hoped would never arrive, the blow to the senses, the sheer and utter terror of realizing that your side bag's latch was MIA and had been hanging open to maniacally scatter its contents with reckless abandon to every caprice of the wind and every divot and rise of the road. Sacrifices to the bane of bikers: traffic. A quick assessment revealed all of my clothes gone, my coat missing, stove fuel lost, and a few odds and ends at large.
Waiting on the string of traffic that seemed to materialize as soon as I needed to cut around in the road, I couldn't help but prepare for the worst. Riding slowly and keeping an eye on the road for what once was in my possession was suspenseful and disheartening the further I went. Finally, some road debris. I retrieved my hat and some socks, darting into the road when traffic allowed and out of it when it forbade. It became mechanical; walk several hundred feet, reclaim one item, repeat ad nauseam. Luckily I kept the majority of my clothes in a drawstring bag, so they were mostly in one spot of the road. It was frustrating watching traffic drive right over my gear before I could get to it, but in the end, I recovered everything less a pair of nail clippers, a can of stove fuel, a crushed stick of deodorant, and a broken beard trimmer (which I personally take as a sign). Everything had been spread out over about a mile and a half. Some kind person had stopped and pulled many of the items onto the shoulder, but quite a few were still in the middle of the lane. At least I got to practice my Frogger skills (or I guess Crossy Roads these days).
Continuing on, I paused to marvel at a drivethrough Subway. Don't judge me, we don't have those fancy innovations at our Subway's in South Carolina. Continuing to ride from the coast, the cars ahead of me suddenly halted and ALL the cameras came out. Even mine.
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Wouldn't want to hit one of those walking piles of delicious jerky.
Continuing down to take 138 Westward, I realized that I'd be passing near Crater Lake. The nearest entrance was closed due to fire, but I looped around and caught the open entrance and I am very glad I did. Entering Crater Lake is just like riding up a normal mountain, all the way to the top, but the first glimpse of the lake can cause involuntary pulmonary arrest. It's massive! Pictures do no justice.
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Leaving Crater Lake, I headed south to Klamath Falls. I faintly remembered reading something about Klamath Falls once, but I couldn't remember what it concerned.
Riding past Klamath Lake, it hit me. Then it hit me again. And again. And again. And again. And again. And again. And again. And again. And again. And again. And again. And again. And again. And again. And again. And again. And again. And again. And again. And again. And again. And again. And again. And again. And again. And again. And again. And again. And again. And again. And again. And again. And again. And again. And again. And again. And again. And again. And again. And again. And again. And again. And again. And again. And again. And again. And again. And again. And again.
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Ahh, yes. The infamous Klamath Falls midge. Introduced to control the mosquito population, populations exploded and the midges now rule town. Midges everywhere.
Not sure what bags you have, but that's one thing I've always liked about the OEM bags: You cannot leave them open unless the key is in them. ( I *think* that's right...it's been a few months since my last LD ride.) If that key is also on your ignition key ring, you can't leave them open and drive away.
Not sure what bags you have, but that's one thing I've always liked about the OEM bags: You cannot leave them open unless the key is in them. ( I *think* that's right...it's been a few months since my last LD ride.) If that key is also on your ignition key ring, you can't leave them open and drive away.
I went the budget route and went with the JCWhitney GaragePro bags for the side. They worked decent. I'm pretty sure I just didn't latch it correctly this time, although we'll revisit this issue in a few days.
The bugs - oh lord the bugs. I ran in to a similar storm of insects once. We pulled over at a rest area to clean up. Before helmets could be removed there were yellow jackets everywhere to feast on the remains. The bike was swarmed by 'em. All part of the fun I suppose.
Nice photos of Crater Lake. It's a jewel. Its history is interesting. Until 8,000 years ago it was Mount Mazama, about 12,000 feet high, similar to Mt Hood to the north. It blew its top and then collapsed in on itself leaving the caldera behind that filled with water to become the lake.
You really hit the high points on this trip - something you'll remember your whole life. Love to see more photos if you've got 'em.
Freshly showered with helmet, riding gear and bags scrubbed, using all of the motel's washcloths (sorry, laundry people), the bug population was down quite a bit. The ones yet alive flew around oblivious to their mass suicidal tendencies. Once on the road again, the midges were nowhere near as dense as the night before, and I probably only killed 146 making my way out of Klamath Falls. Today, I would head for California.
Ahh, Cali. The state that shares the national spotlight only with New York. The state that seems to be a country within a country. One doesn't hear a whole lot about California living in South Carolina, only hushed whispers of sky high gas prices, increasingly strict gun laws, and affecting my profession by adding a LOT of complexity to the emission systems of road going vehicles.
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Well, so far, so safe. California had one thing going for it right off the bat, cheaper gas prices than Oregon! Self service! Vacuum gas nozzles! Wait, what? Once I finally figured out that I had to push the bellows in to allow gas to flow, things went much smoother. I headed down US 97 to Weed, CA. A small town with an unusual name, kind of hilarious watching the Weed Police on patrol. From Weed, I headed down ta CA 89, heading west towards mountains or something like that.
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The lovely Mt Shasta. What a perfect representation of the term 'Mountain'.
The road became quite straight, unfortunately, the boredom came on as well, hanging onto straight roads as parasitically as ever. When I wasn't riding in a straight line in pine trees (might as well have been back in SC!), I was passing road paving equipment, but that caught up to me in a quick manner when I had to wait quite a while in a one lane traffic situation. Well over 100 degrees plus fresh, hot asphalt is a very efficient recipe for sweating not-so-proverbial buckets.
I love making the construction guys laugh. Whether it's barking at them from my helmet, pretending to pedal my bike through the slow areas, playing rock-paper-scissors with the flagman, or pretending to fall asleep with exaggerated action. Once through the construction area, I treat the people stopped heading the other way as a very captive audience. It's a great time to practice all the parade waves you'd normally have to wait a long time to master. From the Queen Elizabeth to swimming on the bike to all out flapping and cawing, people generally smile, laugh, take pictures. Kids love it. It's fun for me and I get to make the most of a boring situation, all the while hopefully brightening the day of those around me. Knowing all the road construction they had ahead of them, they needed it in a bad way.
Entering Lassen National Forest, things began to get interesting. I hadn't done a ton of research on the day's ride, I just saw that CA 89 looked like a much better alternative to THE 5. (was informed in California, the Interstates are referred to as “THE (# )”) Things became interesting when I entered Lassen Volcanic National Park. Not having looked too close at the map, I failed to realize the road ran through a National Park, but as I had purchased an Interagency Annual Pass before leaving, it saved me the $15 entrance fee. If you're planning on visiting more than 3 National Parks in a year's time, I highly recommend purchasing an Annual Pass.
I've always been enchanted by volcanoes, I guess you could say they “magma” curious. Ha. I'm now ducking to avoid the thrown objects for that poorly used pun.
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|Lassen Peak, which last erupted in 1915, was not likely to blow any time soon, but a small part of me wished to see just a bit of volcanic action. Just one large chunk of rock blown several hundred feet in the air. Nothing crazy. Oh well.
The rocks that had been thrown were fascinating in their different layers of striation and bubbles. Just remarkable to view the different kinds of volcanic rock that formed, many times creating hybrids where different ages met or different temperatures of lava formed these large stones. Geologist me was excited, until Practical me reminded Geologist me how much learning he had to do yet on the subject.
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New growth after the total devastation of the lava flow. “From the ashes”
Wildfire smoke hung around as the terrain changed from devastated land to unaffected land.
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Then back to damaged land, this time by wildfire.
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The view from the top didn't disappoint.
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Emerald Lake
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The sulfur springs at Bumpass Hell were great. Really otherworldly with the hydrogen sulfide gases spewing from the mud and the smell of sulfur filling the air.
I really regret not having more time in Lassen. It's a NP I had never heard of, living in the shadow of Yosemite, but I highly recommend it!
I continued on through the park, then taking CA 32 to end up having the most fun I'd had in a while. CA 32 is a blast! Low traffic, beautiful pavement, incessant curves, the whole works. Grinning from ear to ear, I piloted the VFR towards Chico.
Descending from 8,000 ft, things warmed up rather quickly. By the time the road straightened out and I arrived in Chico, my ambient temp display was rather annoyingly proclaiming 109 F. I know it's hot, I said. You don't have to rub it in.
Once again on the road, I headed into Oroville, where I ate a local diner. Tired of the typical travel food (burgers, etc) I ordered the country fried steak. Hands down the best country fried steak I've ever had and the mashed potatoes were no trifling matter, either.
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Using freecampsites.net can be a crapshoot at times. Heading toward a campsite in Berry Creek, I wondered how remote it would be. Very remote was the answer. Thankfully, the road began to climb as the sun fell, lowering temperatures.
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A view over Lake Oroville.
After 20+ miles of riding in the dark, headlights still not adjusted properly, I pulled onto the road to the campground. Then it turned to gravel. Ahh, gravel. My nemesis. At least on a road bike like Vanessa. I kept hoping it was around the next rutted, bumpy loose gravel corner, but again and again, a safe place to sleep failed to materialize. I happened upon a small sign that proclaimed I had 8 miles on gravel to go. Not happening. I was pushing it doing about 12 mph on this road. At that rate, it would have been 45 minutes more. I rode about another mile, found a small secluded pull off, blew up my air mattress and slept alongside my bike under the stars.
It was a fantastic night for star gazing, something we don't get to do so well on the East Coast. It had been a good day, and now my only wish was to remain undisturbed for the rest of the night.
Today's Takeaway: The stops you don't plan have a tendency for potential greatness.
Awakening slightly before daybreak, I packed my sleeping bag and mattress and threw them back into the side case when a wrench got thrown in the works. Before breakfast even!
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The latch for my right side case broke clean off, leaving very little to keep it from flying open and distributing it's contents willy-nilly. Doing a little improvising, I made the bags on the seat work with just one ROK strap and transferred the other one to holding-right-side-bag-closed duty.
The sun dawned, casting a wonderful golden glow on the hills as I wended my way back down into Oroville. The wildlife was out, but thankfully, respectful of the road's boundaries.
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This picture does absolutely no justice to the sunlight bathing the bridge over the “canyon” in it's revealing light and warmth. I forgot about the broken latch, so beautiful was the scene before me.
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There, problem solved. Nothing a cam buckle strap, knife and lighter can't fix.
The morning was a bit brisk, something I would long for later in the day. Once in Oroville, I took CA 70 south to Sacramento. This was the only large city I hit in California, and it was plenty large enough for me. Being California, I got to try my hand at lanesplitting. Initial thoughts: it just makes so much sense. If it's legal and drivers don't freak out, it's a much more safe traffic position for those on two wheels. With the added width my girl was packing on both sides, there were far fewer comfortable opportunities to split than I would have liked.
Things were heating up. Hot. Really hot. Around 12 PM, the bike indicated 108F ambient and it just kept climbing. Turning onto 16 east to Drytown, then south through Angels Camp to Sonora. In Sonora, I hit a personal high of an indicated 114F. That seems a bit high, but the bank signs were all showing 108 and 109. That kind of heat just wears one down. I drank 6L of water from my pack within a few hours and still felt dehydrated. For a relatable demonstration, get a hair dryer, set it on high, step 3 feet away and stay there for 7 hours. Report back on your findings.
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The view over what's left of New Melones Lake.
CA 120 was a welcome sight coming out of Moccasin. The road went up, not flat. It turned, not remained straight. I gained elevation little by little. I would have had some fun here were it not for the duo of slow cars ahead of me. NEVER get stuck behind a Cruze and a Prius. If you do, enjoy corner speeds in the single digits. I really don't remember a lot about the remaining stretch to Yosemite, must have been heat wiped.
Arriving in Yosemite, I found most camping full (yes, I should have made reservations, but I didn't want to). I found one open spot finally in Crane Flat campground, set up my tent, and headed down for the Valley.
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The wildlife was tame, almost too tame.
I walked to the Yosemite restaurant and “enjoyed” probably the most mediocre meal of the entire trip. I had the pulled pork sandwich and had to spend my entire meal shooing away squirrels and birds trying to eat my food before I was done with it.
Heading back up to Crane Flat, the V4 once more roared through the tunnels. Once back to my campsite, I had to check and make sure I was in the right spot. The single site where I had pitched my tent now housed 3 camper vans, 1 RV and 4 other tents. I guess they figured I didn't need much space, quietness or privacy. Side note: the restrooms were out of order and instead, portajons were placed outside. I have no problem with that. My problem lies in that all the vents were linked together, meaning you had an unnecessary and unwanted aural and olfactory link with your neighbor in the next plastic poobox over. Whatever.
Right when I settled down, a RV rolled into the next spot, kicking out those camping in that spot and they all set up in my spot. It would have all been cool if the new RV neighbors hadn't built a fire, hollered at each other, and blasted Indian rap music till well past midnight.
Today's Takeaway: I'm not sure if I picked the most popular campsite in all of Yosemite or accidentally started a cult.
I go to Yosemite every year, but I go to ski. Never been there yet on a bike, or during the tourist season. I always go with little/no notice and there's never a crowd anytime past mid-October. Not sure I'd have the patience for tourist season there.
PS How in the world did that lock snap like that? Did you pry up on it or something? They replace the case for you?
JCWhitney said they'd replace the case, but the cost of shipping it in could buy me a new one. I'm just going to leave it as is and keep an eye out for some Givi cases.
The sun dawned and the light spilled over the treeline to reveal a nearly empty campground. The commune that had existed only hours ago was gone, or was it all in my head?
I had some miles to cover this day, so I regretfully didn't have time to go hiking or explore Yosemite much. Heading through the park, I realized that this was the first time in the trip actually heading true East. The road climbed some more, and I found myself on Tioga Pass.
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I saw several of these trucks from Switzerland. Love them! Why can't we have cool stuff, America? Switzerland gets these brutes, Australia gets utes, and basically everyone else gets small diesel trucks and Toyota Hiaces. Take all our Corvettes and Mustangs in trade for diesel Hiluxes!
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Descending was equally beautiful. Tioga gets frustratingly close to 10,000ft elevation at 9,943ft.
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Almost at Lee Vining, CA, I observed a very large group of Harleys turn ahead of me, so my curiousity got the best of me and I decided to figure out what they were up to. Turns out, they were pulling into the Mobil gas station. Not having eaten breakfast, I stopped and figured I'd scrounge up a granola bar or something. Inside the gas station was a full fledged restaurant, the Woah Nellie Deli. No greasy spoon, as I am accustomed to from petrol station (for my Euro audience) eateries.
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I had the “World Famous Fish Tacos” with mango salsa, ginger coleslaw, and a side of black beans. World Famous is a pretty pretentious thing to boast when you're operating in a filling station, but they did not disappoint. Excellent food, reasonable price (a lot more so than the fuel prices), very quick service.(And they had Tapatio!) After the delicious food, I went out to my bike and found a fellow rider enjoying the shade of a nearby tree. We talked a while, and he recommended a route that, strangely enough, was the exact route I had planned solely by convenience. At his urging, I visited the Mono Lake Visitors Center and left quite fascinated by the uniqueness of the lake and the surrounding areas. Hearing about Bodie, a ghost town about 35 miles away really piqued my interest, but I needed to make some miles and the miles of dirt road back to Bodie didn't sound too promising on the ol VFR. Off I go again...
I took 395 south to catch 120 east. Once on 120, I simply had to stop at Mono Lake and view some of the oddities that I had learned of at the visitor's center.
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What I would have called aboveground stalagmites were actually called tufa, deposits of salt left from springs that once fed the lake. Mono Lake has a very high salt content, approximately 3 times more salty than the Pacific Ocean, and a pH of 10. For comparison, ammonia has a pH level of 11.
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Of particular interest were the small hordes of alkali flies that massed near the water's edge. In massive numbers, these flies could easily make for an uncomfortable except for the fact that they rarely fly more than a foot off of the ground, in direct opposition of every stinkin' gnat and mosquito in the southeastern US, which seem to thrive right at face level.
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Back on the road again, I see why the guy described 120 as a great ride. What a range of ecology, from an alkaline lake to desert to volcanic devastation zones, such as this one.
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Smalls forests, a few corners, smooth pavement, elevation change, scenery, 120 ticks all the boxes for a great scenic ride.
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Boundary Peak
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One more state.
I stopped at a small gas station to cool off (only upper 90's, so not terribly hot, but still) and found these amazing popsicles.
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It was basically frozen pineapple juice concentrate, but oh so refreshing.
There were definitely some fun stretches, such as the piece of 120 that had no elevation smoothing. Running 80-90 mph down and up the dips was exhilarating, coming very close to catching air multiple times. The closest thing to paved moguls I've ever seen. Every now and then, there would be a sharpish corner on an off camber hump, which felt like the closest I'll ever get to a motocross style tailwhip. Great fun.
Once into Tonopah, NV, things got boring. REAL boring.
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This is a perfect representation of what it's like to ride on 376 in Nevada.
Along with that, I submit this terribly produced example of a time lapse of 50 miles on 376 that passes in 19 seconds. Seriously, lesson learned, shorter intervals and have the GoPro on a solid mount, not a helmet mount.
The country side blurred by and all into one. Nothing exciting, nothing to look at, just straight, flat forever. Wait, what is that running into the road? From the middle of nowhere, a huge (for a) coyote charged out of the brush at my bike. I was running about 90mph, I couldn't stop in time, so I swerved at it, hit the horn and revved the engine in an attempt to startle it. It worked, thankfully, and I made it by with about 4 feet separating my legs from its incisors.
After I had my excitement for the day, things settled back down into the doldrums that are US 50, otherwise known as the Most Lonely Road in America. After riding on 376, however, US 50 felt like an interstate with all the traffic. Why, I must have passed a car or truck about every 5 miles. Must have been rush hour.
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I rolled into Eureka, NV right in time to catch the sunset and crash at my cousin's house.
Today's Takeaway: Is it time to head East already?
The day began with a complimentary breakfast at the adjacent restaurant. The fare was rather standard, with a special free Days Inn menu consisting of 4 choices. No, problem, I'm a simple man. Give me pancakes and bacon. And crunchy peanut butter, but I digress.
This raises an interesting point. People feel divided by nationality, religion, genders, but what really divides us is how we prefer our bacon to be done. My perfect strip of bacon is done to the outer edges being crispy with soft pockets throughout. The cook at the restaurant was obviously of the “bacon fried limp enough to use for a bracelet” camp.
Suiting up, the skies were cloudy to the north, so I booked it out of Sonora and headed south on US 277 and then east on 55 to Rocksprings, TX.
While filling up in Rocksprings, a TXDOT driver struck up a conversation with me about how slow the gas pumps were. True, most pumps are measured in Gallons per Minute, not Ounces per Minute. When it takes 10 minutes to fill a 5 gallon tank, you pity those with 30+ gallon tanks and 8 cylinders. He asked if I was planning on riding those ranch roads, and when I responded in the affirmative, he cautioned me to watch out for all the sand in the road and “too many fools runnin' around over their heads.”
His warning fresh in my mind, I set off towards Camp Wood and the number 1 ranked motorcycle ride in the US, according to motorcycleroads.com . The Three Sisters, or the Twisted Sisters, are a trio of rural Texas Ranch Roads, 335, 336, and 337, forming about a 95 mile loop.
Highly touted by most top ten lists, the Three Sisters are a big destination ride, home of many rallies. Getting close to Camp Wood, I was definitely entering Hill Country, an excellent reprieve from Flatistan (the rest of Texas). I see some green here and there on the sprawling ranches. Turning onto 337 at Camp Wood, the hills appeared and the road became a little less straight. Road is a little bit of a gracious term for what remained of the pavement that was, I can only assume, in decent condition at some point in the last century. It's pretty rough going, but maybe the curves would take my mind off of the abrasiveness of tar snake I was riding along.
It turns out that I had a little more to worry about than potholes and gravel. The first major curve was an awakening to the new dangers I faced, farm trucks being driven at flat land speeds around blind corners across the double yellow.
At least the view was decent.
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Once in Leakey, I headed up on 336. I kept seeing signs warning of extreme danger to motorcyclists, and a current death toll over the last several years. It seemed a little bit overdone, but I guess if you only ride in Texas, these roads might be dangerous. To be fair, they did have a fair amount of elevation change and some challenging corners, but most of the danger must have been from riders being drunk or losing it on the terribly placed cattle guards that spanned the road, mid-corner. No clue why they couldn't have been placed on a straightaway.
336 was my favorite of the trio, and then mostly because it was fun for its elevation changes. Not too many curves, but the up/down was fun. Cresting one hill, I read a sign on the side of the road announcing the opportunities to observe Texas wildlife.
Not to be a wasted sign, I rounded the next corner, only to immediately have to nail the brakes to avoid three does crossing the road. Just having recovered from dodging deer, I immediately had a squirrel dart past my front wheel while leaned into a sweeping right hander, then immediately afterwards, back on the binders to swerve around a dead hog that was taking most of the valuable real estate in the right lane. All this wildlife observation in a quarter mile. What Texas promises in animal sightings, Texas delivers.
Back in Leakey, I stopped and filled up the bike. Heading out of town, I stopped for lunch at Two Fat Boys BBQ. The brisket was decent, the tea not sweet. Texas food was hyped up pretty good, but I ended up ever so slightly disappointed, not that the food was bad, but more that it simply didn't live up to my expectations or the rabid recommendations. What can I say, I'm more of a pork and mustard kind of guy.
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The Frio River. Not so Frio today.
337 to Bandera was a pleasant ride, once I got some more ice water for my pack. Interestingly, Bandera was the only place that I was charged to refill my hydration pack.
From San Antonio, I grabbed I-10 East to Galveston. On straight, flat, boring roads, audiobooks are one's friend. Filling up once again in Galveston, I went inside the station just in time for an employee to come around the corner yelling, “I'm going to kill him! I've done time before, but I'll do it again! I'm going put my hands around his neck and laugh as I choke the very last breath out of him!”
Unsure if I wanted to be a customer at this point in time, I sort of shuffled to the back to browse the assorted snacks until the roid rage simmered down a bit. It turns out it was the owner of the gas station and he was livid with the Budweiser delivery truck guy for ordering triple the amount of beer he usually stocked. Alright, I guess that's justifiable homicide. I figured I'd leave before I used incorrect change that warranted a stabbing.
I was in Texas, so the rest of my evening went Whataburger and hitting the hay.
Sometimes things can be so highly hyped, you can't help but be disappointed when you actually experience it. Texas is fine, perhaps, but maybe, just maybe, I was riding a high from the insane beauty of Montana, Oregon, Utah, and the like, and to be honest, Texas, simply doesn't compare. Different stroke for different folks, I reckon. Whataburger was the highlight of this day.
The waves slapped the shore slowly as the day began. The Texas morning sky was a brilliant blue with just a few clouds lingering to impede the sun that began to make its presence known. I parked near the water, soaking in the warmth, breathing in the salty spray, feeling the light breeze, and generally ready for the day ahead. Good morning Galveston, indeed.
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This makes the third saltwater view Vanessa and I have taken in together.
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Atlantic Ocean – Hunting Island, SC
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Pacific Ocean – Lincoln City, Oregon
Today was differentiated by the briny water which was soon to be under our respective wheels and feet.
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Preparing to board the Galveston-Bolivar ferry, only slightly curious as to how the speed limit was determined to be reasonable.
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In no time, we were underway, engines thrumming below deck.
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Much to the consternation of the ferrymaster, these people refused to quit tossing food to the seagulls, who, as seagulls do best, rained a shockingly steady stream of “sea-doo” onto those parked below. Boarding the ferry midships has its advantages. I maintain that seagulls are nothing but a colon with wings.
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Once back on the solid and sandy shores of the Bolivar Peninsula, I struck east, intent on making a few miles this day.
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That is, until, I got distracted by the beach. Let me tell you, the beach is not the VFR's native habitat. Every inch I got, I fought for with this heavy bike and street tires. There were a few times the back wheel was buried in loose sand up to the lug nuts and I had to slip the clutch, stay on the throttle and walk my way out. Not one of my brighter moments. She got a good cleaning after that.
Once extricated from the beach itself, it was all back to business. On the home stretch of the trip and I'm about ready to get there. I stopped in Beaumont, TX to give TX barbeque one last shot at redemption.
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I chose Boomtown BBQ, and the food was pretty good, not great, but as I've said before, I'm a pork guy, not brisket. While I was eating, I got a recommendation from Pants that I should try a certain place in Lafayette, LA.
Two hours of I-10 later (nothing remarkable, other than the Buc ee's truck stop which I enjoyed), I arrived in Lafayette, hoping that my lunch wouldn't spoil an early supper at Prejean's.
I had been looking forward to Cajun food, as the nearest thing we have in my part of South Carolina would be Bojangles. Now, if that's not a stretch...
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At the waitresses suggestion, I ordered the crawfish enchiladas with rice dressing and a corn macque choux, and let me tell you, they were incredible. Hands down the best meal of the trip, if not of my distant memory. Top notch wait staff, food, I can't recommend the place enough. I only wish I could get a little more of that around home.
Back on the road, it was hammer down until about 10 miles outside of Baton Rouge, when traffic crawled to a standstill. Why can't lanesplitting be legal nationwide? It was rather warm out and it was quite a while later when, while crossing the big I-10 bridge over the Mississippi River, I noticed my temperature gauge was flashing. By the time I made my way off the next exit, it was flashing a very daunting 270F. No bueno.
It didn't feel like it was that hot, the coolant reservoir was still full where I had left it, and the fans worked. I debated pulling off the side fairing in the parking lot, but decided that it had to be a coolant temperature sensor fault, not an actual overheating problem as there were no signs of airlock, coolant loss, or coolant boiling, as surely it would be at 270F. I eased back onto the road, keeping an eagle eye on the temp, but it never rose that high again. Who knows? I still don't believe it was that hot.
Gulfport, Mississippi arrived with no more hassle, and knowing I couldn't top my earlier Cajun feast, I grabbed off the cheap menu at Taco Bell and hit the sack early for the long day ahead.
“Gold's still out there, if'n you got the patience to stick at it” mumbled the man across the diner as he wiped his napkin across his mouth, missing the bit of home fries still in his moustache. “People just ain't got what it takes to work anymore” replied his dining companion, somehow not regretting his choice to wear shorts on a 45 degree morning. “Food'll be out in a bit, darling” was met with a chorus of “Thank you, Nancy” as the diner regulars awaited their platters of egg, bacon, and toast.
This won't be your typical ride report. Instead of wrapping up my uneventful last day home, this is what you get. No bike photos, no descriptions of twisty nirvana, no maps. No food pictures or captured landscapes, solely what really held my trip together, makes for vivid recollections, and that which left an impression on me that no national park, tourist trap or secondary road ever could.
I'm speaking of those who make the world more than just a ball of rock, grass, and dirt. Geologists, forgive my simplicity. I refer, of course, to people. Friends, neighbors, strangers, foe, acquaintance, family. Answer D – all of the above.
When I planned this trip, I looked up routes, things to see, places to eat, but the one aspect of the trip I had no control over whatsoever was the people with whom I would cross paths, if but for a brief moment.
We live in an age of 4G LTE, WiFi in every restaurant, and we're more connected than ever. Are we really? Go to a public place. Just people watch for a bit. Friends eating together all glued to their respective phones, taking photos of their food and selfies to further groom their personal online image. (I admit, I take food pictures, but...) Parents handing children tablets with cartoons on to shut them up for a bit. We don't talk to those we don't know and expect the favor to be returned to us. Our worlds revolve around us and everyone else is playing backup. The news is nothing but grim faced reporters discussing last night's double homicide, and today's economy disaster. What fresh danger is lurking in your house as you sleep unaware? Tune in at 11:00 for more.
This is a pretty bleak picture to paint, for sure, but is that where we as a world are stuck now? Is this what life is now? Is everyone else to be feared, judged, and avoided by us, just because the fear-mongering media tells us to stay in our tiny little comfort zones and “safe spaces”? Are there still people out there who are kind? Somebody who will help their fellow man out? Someone who inspires hope that we're not autonomous self-bots just yet? Anyone?
Yes, they're still around. I know. I've seen them, talked with them. Laughed, shook hands, shared a brief moment with them, parted ways, likely to never see them again, but now somehow a little different for having met them.
These people are some of the most vivid and best memories of my trip.
Outshining the beauty of Glacier National Park, the man who came down from his house to reopen the gas station to sell four gallons of gasoline from a pump old enough that it tallied in nickels. Helping out the rider all the way from South Carolina, which really is a long ways from Dale, Oregon, he chuckled as he expounded on the history of the gas station, going back inside to bring back a postcard. “No charge,” he said. “Your middle name's Dale, that's good enough for me.”
Greater than the fun of ripping up the Chief Joseph Scenic Byway, the scene that awaited at the top of the Beartooth Highway. A pulloff with a great view. A classic Cadillac. An elderly couple inside, his arm around her, her head on his shoulder as they sighed together and pondered life, just living in the moment, while they still could.
Oh, the advice you receive as a solo rider far from home. “Be safe out on that thing.” “Don't try to hit any moose. They probably would win.” “Not saying you're going to smuggle drugs into Canada, but if you do, ride a Goldwing. They never search those, not like the Harleys they climb all over. Don't want to get in all the old guys' stuff, I reckon.” “Keep it shiny side up” “Hope you had a good day spelunking. That's some wild caving gear.” <points at motorcycle jacket and pants> “Man, you should strap a kitchen sink on there yet.” “I wish I could fill up my car for that!” “Drink plenty of water out there, man. It's hotter than a billy goat with a blow torch” (He didn't have to tell me, I was sweating like Mike Tyson at a spelling bee)
Always a good laugh was the admiring and envious glances of those guys who longed to be on a bike, a tent on the back, and the open road ahead of them, when a elbow in the side from their significant other jolted them back to reality and lead them back into Bed, Bath, and Beyond. Kids love a biker. They come running, asking questions a mile a minute with the attending parent trying to catch them and apologizing. If they asked nicely, they could sit on the bike for a while or a photo. Their day = made.
People just love to approach a lone rider. It's one of the reasons I like to travel alone. It adds a sense of vulnerability to which people can relate. I could always tell when someone just needed to talk to somebody, not really that I could do anything about it, they just needed to talk. It's how I learned that Eileen* is trying to sell her RV in Phoenix because she worries about it while shes away 8 months of the year. That Ernie* is about to lose his job at the mining company and that he lost all his stock shares and he's not sure how he can support his family, having moved them out to Wyoming just for that job. Or how Ethel's* brother is going to be in a lot of trouble for texting and driving leading him to hit a herd of 100 cattle with his semi truck booking down the mountain at 65 MPH.
(*I'm not a names person. If I meet you, I'll repeat your name once, promptly forget it, and refer to you as, “Hey, you” or just the general “ya'll” until I either meet you enough times to remember or we go our separate ways)
Meeting other riders was always fun. Unless they rode up on Harleys, upon which point, they synchronized their genuine Harley DavidsonTM Genuine Accessories watches (made in China) and strutted past casting a deriding gaze at myself and the slightly filthy Jap Crap Honduh that had the gall to use metric bolts and be red with no chrome. (I love to poke fun at Harley buyers ((note I didn't say riders, there are legit Harley riders out there that put me to shame)) so no hard feelings)
The couple in South Dakota, who'd rode from Miami in half shells and her in a tube top, him in nothing but shorts, skin like overdone leather, rolled up and hopped off their Harleys, offering route advice and places to eat.
The couple on the BMW in Montana who shared a laugh with me as we watched the worlds slowest police chase, a distraught and befuddled Asian tourist in a rental car who was being followed by two units going code 3, creeping along at 2 MPH and not stopping until an officer got out, walked past and stood in front of the car, bringing the madness to a halt.
The couple in Montana who stopped to chat and revealed that they were from Australia, and were living their dream of riding across the US. They didn't let the fact that they had to buy a bike, let alone learn to ride, stop them from riding cross country from NYC to Seattle. While I'd normally advise against that sort of thing, they were having the time of their lives.
The Canadians bicycling from Quebec who I waved down in Zion to show them a mountain goat ripe for picture taking. I don't speak French, they didn't speak English, but we shared that moment of watching a goat grazing the slopes.
The epic duo of Ed and Rachel on their C90s, doing what they do best.
Really, some of the little moments that make this trip would have gone unnoticed had I had a traveling companion or been glued to my phone/tablet/laptop/newspaper.
Stopping at a roadside burger joint in Nebraska and watching the owner's mother beam with pride as her son tells me he won the best burger in town award. (That moment was better than the burger, which was exceptionally mediocre, but I digress)
Seeing a Dairy Queen worker's first day jitters fade as she grew more confident in running the register.
The flagger operating one lane of traffic breaking into a wry grin as he exchanged jokes with the other end of the line by radio.
The woman in the wheelchair watching the sun sink into the Pacific Ocean from her van with a slight giddy grin on her face.
Moments in ordinary lives, captured in my memory. No photos, but that's fine. That's the beauty of it all. People with joy, pain, excitement, and anger. People living out this life we've all been given. Your experiences differ greatly from mine, but that makes them no less valuable. We have more in common than we're told. We have more to share and give than we think. Sometimes, all someone needs is another person with whom to converse. We're all in this life together.
Are there terrible people that do terrible things? Sure, and there always will be. But why should we dwell on the terrible and let that rob us of being able to celebrate that which is good, right, and hopeful?
Help someone in need.
Smile.
Laugh.
Be there for someone.
Sit back and watch the world do it's thing. No wires attached.
Ryan, greatly enjoyed your trip fables and photos ..Your last one really caps it off. I know your day job is a car mechanic, but you have a real talent for writing. If you love it, I hope you fine a way to pursue it more. Raw talent unfullfilled ends up to be a big regret in life. ......from someone a couple decades your senior. Best wishes. PM anytime.
Ryan, great job! Enjoyed reading every word. I would ride with you any day, any where ;) I actually drive thru Barnwell when I visit my bro( who is porsche tech for Baker in Charleston) next time Ill give you a heads up and buy you lunch.
Ryan, great job! Enjoyed reading every word. I would ride with you any day, any where ;) I actually drive thru Barnwell when I visit my bro( who is porsche tech for Baker in Charleston) next time Ill give you a heads up and buy you lunch.
Thanks, man. It's a small world. I'll have to take you up on that.
End of thread · 113 posts recoveredWayback Machine snapshot 22 Aug 2017