Selfie at Moab
This is a story of the road. Of beautiful landscapes; fiery sunsets, snow-capped mountains, and rushing rivers. This is the story of two Canucks and their thirst for riding the twisty byways of America. Of avoiding the evil network known as… “The Interstate.” Of riding the highest paved road in North America. This is a story of deliberately leaving a perfectly functioning fuel pump off of a resurrected bike, and suffering the consequences. Okay, that last one is oddly specific, as time will tell.
Background
What does one do with a couple weeks of vacation in August? Naturally, go on a bike trip. Myself (who I’ll refer to by the alias, uh… “Spencer”) and my buddy from university, we’ll call him “Jesse”, had some time off and we agreed that a change of scenery would be the best use of our time. However, when it comes to planning, my mentality is “Less is More”, so actually choosing somewhere to go required more patience than I’m used to.
Being a stubble-jumping farmboy from Saskatchewan, I have two requirements for a good change of scenery: elevation, and twisty roads. Fortunately, mountains supply both of those requirements. Add in a fascination with the Pikes Peak Hillclimb and the relatively recent paving of Pikes Peak to the summit, and we had our destination. Not too much planning so far! I should note that we weren’t there at the same time of the Hill Climb, because we wanted to conquer the mountain without the additional crowds of the event.
The characters: the only picture with both of us in it, Spencer on the right and Jesse on the left.
At the peak!
The bikes: my 1995 VFR on the left, and Jesse’s 2002 Suzuki GSX-R600 on the right. Mine is just on the road again after a 100,000km refresher including:
· Front and rear suspension by Jamie Daugherty (I can’t believe how much better it feels now!)
· EBC HH pads
· chain and sprockets (+2 rear)
· Rattlecan GM Quasar Blue Metallic paint and Ford Oxford White racing stripe (adds 2 HP at high RPM’s)
· CBR929 gauge cluster with DRD speedo calibrator
· All Balls steering head bearings
· Ducati 848 Evo muffler with a handmade midpipe, and fiberglass-wrapped
· Oil cooler deleted and looped from front of engine block
· Yamaha V-Star 650 headlight with a handmade mounting bracket and eBay signal lights
· JB Welded radiator filler neck from when I crashed it on California’s Hwy 36 last year (that’s another story, sigh…)
· Fuel pump omitted for… simplicity? More on this later.
Jesse’s GSX-R is an ex-track bike made legal for the street again. As such, it has a ridiculously large rear sprocket, a ridiculously loud full titanium exhaust, and ridiculous amounts of aggressive brake pad dust on his white wheels. And, as I found out, front brake rotors that got pretty warped at some point. Scary.
Between me riding a fully naked bike, and Jesse cruising at 8000rpm at highway speeds, we had the prospect of an uncomfortable but ambitious goal of covering 6000km in ten days. Comfort be damned! It's better in the wind.
Break time.
The route: Calgary to Pikes Peak, via the squiggliest lines on the map we could find.
Overall Map
Bikes, check. Passports, check. Dreams of the open road, check. Let’s ride!
Day 1: Calgary to Whitefish, August 10th. ~410 km
Day 1
Leaving home.
With a hearty breakfast at the neighbourhood Tim Horton’s, we packed up the bikes and got a not-so-early start at 10:30am. What can I say, I’m not a morning person, and I’ll be the first to admit it. We headed south out of Calgary and beelined for the border. The ride itself was flat and not very scenic, so we had no qualms about keeping up a healthy pace. We passed through Cardston, a town of about 3500 people, and one of my favourite places to go as a child due to its timeless feel and proximity to Waterton National Park.
The wait at the border was a gamble of picking between two lineups: smaller cars and motorcycles, or RV’s and trailers. I elected to choose the “small vehicle” lineup just so we could chat to the other bikers, even though the RV lineup showed promise of moving faster. We met some middle-aged guys from Calgary, all on cruisers. We exchanged travel plans, and they expressed their concern that we hadn’t booked any rooms in Kalispell or Whitefish for the evening. At this point I was wondering if my lack of planning would bite us already. After the easiest border crossing I’ve ever experienced, we parted ways with the cruiser guys. After riding on Hwy 89 for awhile, it was time to see what the big deal was with the Going-To-The-Sun Road.
First thought: “Man, they are PRINTING money at this toll both.”
Second thought: “WOW. Amazing scenery, definitely lives up to everything I’ve been told about it.”
Going To The Sun.
More GTTS.
Still more GTTS.
Third thought: “This is a road for going slow and enjoying the scenery, not for shredding tires.” With the combination of construction/gravel on the eastern tip, the precipitous drop-offs, and the 15 mph traffic gridlock, we had no choice but to take it in.
Old Man
Ahead of us for some time was an elderly man who was clearly scared of how twisty the road was, even at walking pace. He crossed the centre line waaaayyyy too many times to count. Cagers, I tell ya…
We rendezvous’d with Hwy 2 and finished the day by riding into Whitefish at sunset. Having skiied there several times in years past, it was nice to relax here with some warm weather and a cold beer. We ate supper at Piggyback BBQ, a favourite of mine. One delicious pulled pork sandwich later, it was time to try our luck with finding a hotel. After striking out at the big names, we ended up with a room at the Cheap Sleep Motel. Truth in advertising; it was cheap, and I did sleep.
I’m calling Day One a success.