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FactoryPro Shift Kit Install

3 posts Started 28 May 2003 Last recovered post 17 Jan 2005 Wayback Machine snapshot 22 Jun 2007

#1
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VFR 800 Shift Kit Install
Factory Pro Transmission Detent Arm Kit
For a 99 Honda VFR 800


This is the kit as you get it from Factory Pro. It doesn't look like much for $89.95 but it makes quite a difference. The O-ring is a Honda part and not included with the kit. It fits on the back of the water pump as you'll see later.

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Once you have the left side fairing removed, you can get to the area you'll need to work on.
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The first part you need to remove is the shift lever. Notice the punch mark on the end of the shift shaft that shows when the lever is properly positioned.
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By removing the right four bolts, you can get the sprocket cover, speedometer pickup and clutch slave cylinder off as one unit. Keep track of the where the bolts go, they are different lengths.
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I wired the entire assembly out of my way. Now is a good time to clean this area also. You don't want any dirt getting into the shift mechanism as you disassemble it.
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Now you can remove the drive chain guide plate. This picture shows the plate and the bolts that have been removed so far. Be careful not to lose the dowel pins that position the guide plate.
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Loosen the bolt holding the front sprocket, then loosen the chain so you can drop it off the sprocket and remove the sprocket from the shaft.
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Here's what you'll have after the sprocket is out of the way. Again, clean as you go.
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Remove the water pump by removing the upper right and lower left bolts. The directions from Factory Pro tell you to drain the coolant but there is no need to do that. Leave the hoses hooked to the pump and remove the entire unit as an assembly. If you haven't drained the oil, have a drip pan under the bike. You will loose some oil when you pull the water pump. I also removed the bolt holding the kickstand switch so I could move the wire out of my way.
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Remove the bolt and stopper plate located below the countershaft.
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Remove the six bolts holding the gearshift linkage cover and remove the cover. Mine was stuck pretty well and required some work to free up. Resist the urge to reach behind the cover and pry. Again, oil is draining from behind the loose cover. If I had to do this again, I would drain the oil before I begin. I lost 42 ounces of oil total. Be sure to top the bike back up before starting the engine.
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Here you can see the cover off the bike. Be careful not to lose the dowel pins that align the cover. Also, the gearshift spindle has a washer on the front and back side. The front washer came with the cover when I removed it. Don't lose it. [image: user posted image]

Here is the bike with the gearshift linkage cover removed.
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Pull straight out on the gearshift spindle to remove it. Be careful not to lose the washer on the back side. Now you'll be able to see where the new detent arm and spring fit.
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Remove the bolt holding the detent arm, the arm, the spring and the washer. Here is what the old and new parts look like side by side.
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Here you can see the new detent arm installed. It's a bit of a pain to get everything lined up and get the bolt started because you are fighting the spring tension while installing it. Be careful to get everything properly lined up and make sure the bolt is started straight. You do not want it cross threaded. Don't forget to install the washer in the same position you found it during disassembly.
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You can assemble in the reverse order. Be sure to clean the old gasket off the cover and install the new one that came with the kit. Be sure all the dowel pins that help position the cover are in place also.
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Install a new O-ring on the back of the water pump before sliding it back into position.
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Put the stopper plate and bolt back on.
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Install the dowel pins, drive chain guide plate, sprocket and chain. Be sure to check your chain adjustment and tighten the bolt at the back of the swingarm.
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Install the sprocket cover. Be sure the speedometer pickup fits over the front sprocket bolt.

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Install the shift lever and the fairing, and you're finished.
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The entire project took me the better part of a day. The bike shifts much better now, especially in the upper gears. It's not a flashy upgrade, but I think it's
worth the money.


WARNING - THIS GUIDE IS MEANT FOR REFERENCE USE ONLY. I STRONGLY RECOMMEND YOU HAVE THE FACTORY HONDA SERVICE MANUAL BEFORE ATTEMPTING THIS INSTALLATION. FOLLOW THE DIRECTIONS IN IT AS WELL AS FACTORY PRO'S INSTRUCTION SHEET. IF YOU SCREW SOMETHING UP, IT'S NOT MY PROBLEM.


http://home.insightbb.com/~rlkoster1/index.html

Thanks.
#2
Topic rebuilt
#3
Now I really wish I had taken pics when I did this to my 92.  The internals are quite different.  The water pump does not remove that easily, and the front sproket doesn't need to be touched.  Hopefully someone else working on a third or fourth gen bike will take some pics and write a relevant how-to...
End of thread · 3 posts recovered Wayback Machine snapshot 22 Jun 2007