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Next Month: "Reprogram your EFI module with a Norelco razor"
Actually, there is some truth in the MCN piece. At high idle (WAX assembly doing its thing), if you let the clutch out just enough to activate the switch while in first gear, your idle will increase 2-300 rpms immediately.
From MCN (�Letters�), March 2005
Re: VFR800 �Hunting�
I have a comment on the �VRF Fuel Injection Hunting� question by James in the January 2005 issue. James did not mention, in his description of the stalling experiences, whether or not the manipulates the throttle while approaching a stop sign. I have experienced similar stalling, and have a recipe for making my VFR stall whenever I wish.
This recipe depends on two things: Only twisting the throttle when instructed, and knowing when you clutch switch is activated. When the engine is off, in quiet surroundings, I can clearly hear the click of the clutch switch. Practice moving the clutch lever enough to disengage the clutch without activating the clutch switch.
1) Find a safe area to experiment in.
2) Warm the bike to operating temperature
3) Rolling along in gear at 7000 rpm or so, close the throttle and let the engine braking slow the machine down.
4) When the rpms have dropped to 4000 or so, move the clutch lever just enough to disengage, but not enough to activate the clutch switch.
5) As the rpms are still falling (from the clutch being disengaged), give the throttle a �blip.�
6) The above procedure delivers one stall.
My interpretation is that the EFI map is different when the clutch is engages, and when not engaged. The coasting is important to clear out any lingering fuel, and perhaps there is a �time out� after which the EFI stops squirting fuel. Since the EFI thinks that the clutch is still engaged, when you �blip� the throttle, it gives a big shop of fuel, which sort of backfires, overpowering what passes for a flywheel on the VFR, causing the stall. Since the system is functioning perfectly, it will restart without problem.
Since the clutch switch is not adjustable (to my knowledge), just live with it or get a bike with its EFI not programmed as if your motorcycle had a flywheel like a car.
Actually, there is some truth in the MCN piece. At high idle (WAX assembly doing its thing), if you let the clutch out just enough to activate the switch while in first gear, your idle will increase 2-300 rpms immediately.
From MCN (�Letters�), March 2005
Re: VFR800 �Hunting�
I have a comment on the �VRF Fuel Injection Hunting� question by James in the January 2005 issue. James did not mention, in his description of the stalling experiences, whether or not the manipulates the throttle while approaching a stop sign. I have experienced similar stalling, and have a recipe for making my VFR stall whenever I wish.
This recipe depends on two things: Only twisting the throttle when instructed, and knowing when you clutch switch is activated. When the engine is off, in quiet surroundings, I can clearly hear the click of the clutch switch. Practice moving the clutch lever enough to disengage the clutch without activating the clutch switch.
1) Find a safe area to experiment in.
2) Warm the bike to operating temperature
3) Rolling along in gear at 7000 rpm or so, close the throttle and let the engine braking slow the machine down.
4) When the rpms have dropped to 4000 or so, move the clutch lever just enough to disengage, but not enough to activate the clutch switch.
5) As the rpms are still falling (from the clutch being disengaged), give the throttle a �blip.�
6) The above procedure delivers one stall.
My interpretation is that the EFI map is different when the clutch is engages, and when not engaged. The coasting is important to clear out any lingering fuel, and perhaps there is a �time out� after which the EFI stops squirting fuel. Since the EFI thinks that the clutch is still engaged, when you �blip� the throttle, it gives a big shop of fuel, which sort of backfires, overpowering what passes for a flywheel on the VFR, causing the stall. Since the system is functioning perfectly, it will restart without problem.
Since the clutch switch is not adjustable (to my knowledge), just live with it or get a bike with its EFI not programmed as if your motorcycle had a flywheel like a car.