If you caught my previous thread regarding my 'engine died today' then pardon the reiteration of this issue. Apparently the 30amp fuse in the main fuse B harness melted due to extreme overheat.
The dealer mechanic whom I trust had no explanation nor had he ever seen this before.
Outside the examples Baileyrock kindly passed on, has anyone else experienced this problem?
I have done some of my own wiring and only have one lead added to the battery itself. I added some hella horns, some rear LED lights, and Kisan's SignalMinder and Vectra Lights. Very low gauge wire.
It appears that the fuse holder has got HOT before the fuse link has blown. I would be checking the connections in the fuse holder for signs of corrosion and burning (heat).
Actually there have been three cases of that happening here, usually its the connector to the main red wire to the battery that has a melt down.
Every year I take my connectors apart clean them with some wd40 and then coat them with dielectric grease. Some say the output of the VTEC stator is too much for the main buss, but I am not an electrical engineer.
That is what the fuse holder is starting to look like on the bike, blackish/brownish discolor, leading me to believe it is burning. Maybe it's just a matter of replacing the harness which I can pick up for about $55. If it's more than that I'll have to have someone do a voltage/charging system check to see where the large draw is coming from. While I can do my own wiring (learn from ones own mistakes and there is a first for everything) I don't know how to test with a voltage meter.
Mac, someone here had a melt down and their Dealer order a new replacement harness for them, I don't remember if it was an up-rated item ? There was a lot of post in this area that were lost in the site crash, hopefully one or more of these guys will see your post and chime in ! :)
baileyrock, Mar 10 2005, 10:03 AMMac, someone here had a melt down and their Dealer order a new replacement harness for them, I don't remember if it was an up-rated item ? There was a lot of post in this area that were lost in the site crash, hopefully one or more of these guys will see your post and chime in ! :)
baileyrock, Mar 10 2005, 01:02 PMAnyone ? :unsure:
Mr Rock Sir,
I read something similar I thought it was over on STN just went to check and can't seem to connect with STN right now. Might Check there in the Honda section.
I read something similar I thought it was over on STN just went to check and can't seem to connect with STN right now. Might Check there in the Honda section.
Mac I got a replacement harness from Dynamo Hum (I thank it is called Piroette now). I cut the existing wires and soldered in the new harness. The directions and tool list are spot on.
I had the same problem, but it was my fault. I installed neon lights and I rapped the power (listened to my friend) wire around the main 30 fuse and stock it in the main housing :joystick: (I know, I know). The wires only by the main fuse started to get really hot and burn. Funny enough the fuse did not blow. I replaced the wiring; Bike would still die on me sometimes at high speeds when I turn on the high beams. Then and now I ran PIAA bulbs 60/55w which produced 110/100w. Now I have installed the horn with its own relay that keeps blown/not working. Some say its short out there, too much power, headlights or Hondas weak electrical system etc. I�m taking my bike to mechanic and leaving it there until he will find out what�s the problem is.
spetsnaz, Mar 13 2005, 03:06 AMI had the same problem, but it was my fault. I installed neon lights and I rapped the power (listened to my friend) wire around the main 30 fuse and stock it in the main housing :joystick: (I know, I know). The wires only by the main fuse started to get really hot and burn. Funny enough the fuse did not blow. I replaced the wiring; Bike would still die on me sometimes at high speeds when I turn on the high beams. Then and now I ran PIAA bulbs 60/55w which produced 110/100w. Now I have installed the horn with its own relay that keeps blown/not working. Some say its short out there, too much power, headlights or Hondas weak electrical system etc. I�m taking my bike to mechanic and leaving it there until he will find out what�s the problem is.
Fuses are complicated beast, believe me I know a little about this. They are designed to a time curve, temperature curve, and an amperage curve and a host of other criteria. A 30 amp fuse does not pop the first time it experiences a 30+ amp flow unless the over current situation matches it design criteria. Fuses also are weakened by current flow close to their design curve. When adding load, even fused load, it is important to realize that a fuse upstream of the load can be the problem. Fuses must be coordinated, not just by amperage, but also by time curve. Fuses should also be changed if they have experienced any abnormal surges. Fuse links are metal and they respond predicatbly to environmental conditions, even when those conditions are not predictable or witnessed. Lastly, fuses are massed produced and have very high acceptable deviation values.
acmaui, Mar 13 2005, 01:38 AMFuses are complicated beast, believe me I know a little about this. They are designed to a time curve, temperature curve, and an amperage curve and a host of other criteria. A 30 amp fuse does not pop the first time it experiences a 30+ amp flow unless the over current situation matches it design criteria. Fuses also are weakened by current flow close to their design curve. When adding load, even fused load, it is important to realize that a fuse upstream of the load can be the problem. Fuses must be coordinated, not just by amperage, but also by time curve. Fuses should also be changed if they have experienced any abnormal surges. Fuse links are metal and they respond predicatbly to environmental conditions, even when those conditions are not predictable or witnessed. Lastly, fuses are massed produced and have very high acceptable deviation values.
wow spoken like a professional.I will change the fuse. Any recommendations as far as what to look for and with what?
Mine did this last year, no reason found. It was brown and insulation on wire melted. It was too hot to even hold while running. Lots of amps, 20 +. I replaced fuse holder and wires, amps still high. Tried another R/R, same crap. Put orignal R/R back on, checked 2 other VFR amp levels, lower, WTF ? Played with it and all of sudden amps lower, I think ~ 12 at idle. Problem went away. All the R/R checks checked fine on both R/R's so now I have a spare. I keep spare fuses and wires and a holder in bike now. Don't know, intermittent problem in my mind. Checked all the connectors on the IP people had trouble with. R/R uses SCR bridge and have had much experience with SCR's at work, sometimes they lock on causing a line-to-line short, it is a 3 phase alternator BTW. I know why they call them semi-conductors, they semi work and semi don't ! Oh, I do not use my brites, they add about 8 amps of load alone, only at nite, never at idle. Can you check your current levels, DC clamp on ? Current goes to 23 or so at start up to recharge battery drain from starting and then should drop down to 12 or so if everything is ok. I can look up the numbers or recheck mine if needed. Also, check fuse holder, is it extremely hot ? Strange stuff indeed. I think it was a bad SCR that fixed itself. I've ridden many miles now, I can check actual, on original R/R w/o trouble so whatever it was it went away. I used heavier wiring and fuse block too.
SCR = silicon controlled rectifier a 4 layer semi-conductor switch for turning on/off current that has a gate lead in the middle you can turn it on and off with a low power signal. Unlike a 3 layer transistor, current is either all there or none at all. Think of a 4 layer SCR as 2 diodes, 2 layer device, in series. It's the inner junction that needs to be switched on. Can not be turned off with gate lead although they make a "GTO", gate turn off, for low current levels. SCR's are turned off by reverse commutation, what happens is they fire/turn on 2, say phase A to B in the 3 phase, current flows, then they fire one on phase C to conduct from A to C and SCR B sees reverse polarity and that turns it off. But for a brief moment of time you have all 3 conducting A,B, and C and B to C is a line-to-line short and if SCR B does not turn off, high current, a short. This current level maybe low enough for GTO's but I guess too $$$ and complicated as SCR's turn themselfs off on their own in a 3 phase circuit, no controls needed. I worked with dynos that made AC power and used hockey puck, big, SCR bridge on incoming 60 Hz lines, 480 Volt and 600 amps. Saw many, many, oh God the memories, SCR failures. Didn't see any intermittent ones, when they died, they died. Would break them open and you could see a "burn" hole in the layers.
I don't know, I think my problem was a bad SCR, it was that or a screwy R/R but it has not done it again in many miles with the original R/R.
Thanks, for the write up, I really appreciate it. First thing I will get a new 30amp fuse and replace it. Then as soon as it will get warm(er) I�ll take to my mechanic to check all the wires/current/walttage since he got proper tools. Is there a way to put bigger/stronger battery and other supporting components to support the after market stuff I got (lights.neons,PCIII/horn)?
Bigger batt won't help at all, it's the alternator that supplies current to the bike and keeps yous batt charged and all of this goes thru the R/R, regulator rectifier ! Make sure has the upgrade one from the recall. All that did in my mind is make things worse. Batt was going dead, insufficient output to keep it charged at idle with cooling fan on and brites on. The install a bigger/better stator assy I think to make alt put out more current. More current and no upgrades to wires, fuses, etc... Simply put Bro, if you are drawing more amps than the alternator can supply your batt will go dead. You need to check this with a clamp on ammeter to know for sure. Don't leave your brites on if cooling fan kicks in at idle. The turn signals added 2-4 amps I think. Samething with brake lite so don't hold it when stopped if possible ??? Turn turn signals on after you get rolling...
Does anyone have a Part Number for the wiring harness?
I noticed that my wire from the main fuse holder to the connector is starting to melt and it gets very hot. I pulled the fuse and it is not burnt and the white connector is fine when I pulled it apart.
Could I just splice in a new fuse holder with a larger diameter wire or should I get a new harness? I have seen from other posts that I should check the regulator. At idle with no other load the bike charges at 13.4V.
02VFR, Mar 17 2005, 03:10 PMDoes anyone have a Part Number for the wiring harness?
I noticed that my wire from the main fuse holder to the connector is starting to melt and it gets very hot. I pulled the fuse and it is not burnt and the white connector is fine when I pulled it apart.
Could I just splice in a new fuse holder with a larger diameter wire or should I get a new harness? I have seen from other posts that I should check the regulator. At idle with no other load the bike charges at 13.4V.
Thanks Phil
Sounds low, I believe the check is 15.5 volts at 5000 (?) rpm. Yes, just get a bigger harness from parts store or Walmart.
I order a new fuse holder with 8 gage wire but it holds a Maxi Fuse. My question is does the physical size of the fuse matter or is a 30a fuse the same no matter the size?
I guess I should solder the fuse holder in rather than use crimp connectors.
30 amp is 30 amp but all fuses have an amp-time rating, controls how fast they blow and that must match. I found a holder at Walmart or Autozone and uses exact same fuse. I would not stray from original at all.
End of thread · 26 posts recoveredWayback Machine snapshot 22 Mar 2005
