I use the longer ones no problem once there screwed on, just a little more effort required getting past the rad hoses. I use the WalMart SuperTech ST7317 Made by Champion.
Recommended filters.
All have superior
filtering.
About 2.5 inches long.
Purolator Pure One PL14612, about $6.
Mobil M1-108, about $12. Made by Champion.
Bosch 3300, about $6. Made by Champion.
About 3.25 inches long.
Purolator Pure One PL14610, about $6.
Mobil 1 M1-110, about $10. Made by Champion.
Bosch 3323, about $6. Made By Champion.
WalMart SuperTech ST7317, about $2. Made by Champion.
It's funny you post this today, I went by my local Wal-mart yesterday with the intention of picking up there filter and all they had on the shelves were Fram filters! I don't know if this is just a Canadian Wal-Mart thing though.
Howdy Guys; Does anyone have any experience with the Scotts filter? Thats the one with the stainless steel screen in it. A concern that I have always had is with oil flow. As I see it, the better a filter filters
the worse it flows oil. Am I out to lunch on this and maybe read to much Scotts propaganda ,or does this make sense to you guys.
onedowneasterHowdy Guys; Does anyone have any experience with the Scotts filter? Thats the one with the stainless steel screen in it. A concern that I have always had is with oil flow. As I see it, the better a filter filters
the worse it flows oil. Am I out to lunch on this and maybe read to much Scotts propaganda ,or does this make sense to you guys.
The filters listed (at least the mobile 1 and Purolator) use synthetic filter elements and flow more than enough. It's not going to starve the engine of oil if that is what you are thinking. However I do know many people who use the scotts and love them, I have used mesh filters before but only in drag cars where high flow is all you care about and oil is changed every track session.
All you people shopping at WalMart seriously need to look into that company's policies - once you know what's really behind all those low low prices you might think twice before going into the bowels of evil again. Just sayin'...
As for filters I'm sticking with K&N as I've had excellent results since I bought the bike in 2000.
melvisAs for filters I'm sticking with K&N as I've had excellent results since I bought the bike in 2000.
I'm not sure you can say that it's possible to have 'excellent results' with anything where working properly means you have no interaction with it.
I've been changing my oil with various filters in all my vehicles for over a dozen years and I've never had any interaction or "measurable results" outside of "I suppose it's working fine." smile.gif
onedowneasterHowdy Guys; Does anyone have any experience with the Scotts filter? Thats the one with the stainless steel screen in it. A concern that I have always had is with oil flow. As I see it, the better a filter filters
the worse it flows oil. Am I out to lunch on this and maybe read to much Scotts propaganda ,or does this make sense to you guys.
You can't clean that kind of filter in the field like they try to say you can. You can clean some dirt of the element, but a lot of the smaller stuff will not come out. For the $120 you can buy a lot of disposable filters. In my thinking if a disposable filter is good enough for a Honda car to go 200K+ miles, on a bike that will most likely only be ridden half that amount they are more then good enough.
Does this mean all have been proven to have superior filtering compared to the stock Honda filter?
How is the superiority determined?
By SAE J1858 and ISO (International Organization for Standardization) 4548-12: Methods of Test for Full-Flow Lubricating Oil Filters for Internal Combustion Engines - Part 12: Filtration Efficiency Using Particle Counting, and Contaminant Retention Capacity. The papers are available online. As the micron rating does not properly or fully describe either the efficiency or the contaminant holding capacity of the filter media.
Howdy Guys; To all that replied about the Scotts filter,thanks. And to all that replied not about the Scotts filter thank you also. I always feel good about my thread if it creates thought and possibly some controversy. When you get a group of individuals thinking and bantering you always learn something!
But just like oil to a certain level, anyone will work if you change it often enough or before it starts to loose it's ability to do what it's meant to do. :biggrin:
BaileyrockLets Not get into politics here please! :musik20:
It's an Oil Filter thread! :biggrin:
True that. That being said, WallyWorld Supertech ST6607 works for me.
The 6607 filter was rated the highest on the miata forum,and was confirmed along with tests that were way over my head,besides its the same filter for the vfr,miata.and RX8.After 8 yrs.of using them no issues.
I've been using the Fram PH6607 or Honda filters since I've had my '04. I change my oil and filter every 3k to 4k miles.
I've yet to have a problem, but I'll be changing to the Pure One or one of the Champion-made filters listed above. Thanks for the great info! :biggrin:
Does this mean all have been proven to have superior filtering compared to the stock Honda filter?
How is the superiority determined?
By SAE J1858 and ISO (International Organization for Standardization) 4548-12: Methods of Test for Full-Flow Lubricating Oil Filters for Internal Combustion Engines - Part 12: Filtration Efficiency Using Particle Counting, and Contaminant Retention Capacity. The papers are available online. As the micron rating does not properly or fully describe either the efficiency or the contaminant holding capacity of the filter media.
Have all the filters listed in the first post been proven to be superior to the stock Honda filter?
i use the scotts and it is the best choice for the vfr and it is re-usable and traps smaller particles better than any other filter on the market ,thus making it the best choice.
what generations does this list cover Kevin? I'm sure this covers 6th Gen bikes, what I really need to know is whether or not the same filter fits a 4th gen? I bought a ST7317 the other day and need to know if I need to take it back for a 6607 or not.
Gap Trashwhat generations does this list cover Kevin? I'm sure this covers 6th Gen bikes, what I really need to know is whether or not the same filter fits a 4th gen?
I'm using Mobil One M1-110 on my '95 VFR, so I assume the list is good for 4th gen. By the way, Honda oil filter wrench fits the Mobil One filter, don't know about the others.
Gap Trashwhat generations does this list cover Kevin? I'm sure this covers 6th Gen bikes, what I really need to know is whether or not the same filter fits a 4th gen? I bought a ST7317 the other day and need to know if I need to take it back for a 6607 or not.
Thats the filter I have been using on my 5th gen for the past 4 years.6607
I have been using my reusable scotts for a few years now myself, and I get a jug of oil at wally world - mobile one 10w40. My buddy Mark did a lot of research on viscosity ratings and such and he spends the 8 bucks a quart on mobile one mtx 4stroke motorcycle oil - me I think its wasting money however I change my oil every 3k unless I am on a 5k trip or somthing where changing oil is unfeasable.
I use the longer ones no problem once there screwed on, just a little more effort required getting past the rad hoses. I use the WalMart SuperTech ST7317 Made by Champion.
Recommended filters.
All have superior
filtering.
About 2.5 inches long.
Purolator Pure One PL14612, about $6.
Mobil M1-108, about $12. Made by Champion.
Bosch 3300, about $6. Made by Champion.
About 3.25 inches long.
Purolator Pure One PL14610, about $6.
Mobil 1 M1-110, about $10. Made by Champion.
Bosch 3323, about $6. Made By Champion.
WalMart SuperTech ST7317, about $2. Made by Champion.
I was always just buying the Fram or the Pennzoil filter and occasionally the Honda one, but after reading that filter article, I may want to be more careful. I have never had any problems with any of the cheaper ones though.
QUESTION: Is this list of acceptable filters just for 6th gens or does it cover the 4th and 5th gens too?
In the engineering reviews the Purolator Pure-One did the highest filtration and had the least back pressure, plus has the best anti-bleed back check valve =Numero Uno. And the price is right. The long version is even better to reach.
I've been using the Bosch 3323, as it's much cheaper than the Honda filter (my local Honda shop is a major rapist on parts pricing) and I can get it without riding clear across town in major traffic to reach a Walmart, where some of the others are apparently available. Besides, I hate shopping at the 'mart.
Not sure how good the Bosch is, but I have had no issues when using it. 3-4k miles for oil changes on mine.
Edit: so I see the spec for the pressure relief valve on the filter is 17psi and the oil pressure on my VFR at 6k rpm is 71psi. The stated concern of Purolator seems like a non-issue to me.
Edit: so I see the spec for the pressure relief valve on the filter is 17psi and the oil pressure on my VFR at 6k rpm is 71psi. The stated concern of Purolator seems like a non-issue to me.
17 PSI DIFFERENTIAL PRESSURE is when the relief valve opens.
That would be the DIFFERENCE in PRESSURE between the filter inlet and the filter outlet. Or to put it another way, the resistance to flow across the filter element.
You may have 71 PSI of oil pressure, but your brand new clean filter with fresh oil, all warmed up to operating temp may only be producing 1-2 PSI pressure drop across the filter???
So the purolator filter would open at 17 PSI DP, which would net your engine 71 - 17 = 54 PSI left.
Also, keep in mind that even though the oil filters have anti-drainback valves, they will drain back over time. With the larger filter, once it drains back, it will take longer to fill at start up. So... a little more element or oil pressure a little sooner? Humm.... On a small block Chevy where the filter is vertical and the oil can't drainback, bigger is better. On the VFR, it's not so cut and dry.
All you people shopping at WalMart seriously need to look into that company's policies - once you know what's really behind all those low low prices you might think twice before going into the bowels of evil again. Just sayin'...
As for filters I'm sticking with K&N as I've had excellent results since I bought the bike in 2000.
+1 I used to deal them on the wholesale level they are ruthless.
I went with the Mobil 1 M1-110 since it was on sale @ autozone 5qts full syn plus filter $27,and it will be used in the engine that will be swapped out of the blow one today.Wally word price would have been the same and like others I HATE buying anything there.
It would be interesting to find out what the pressure relief valve is rated at on the OEM filter. Of the filters recommended in the posted link the Pure One has the lowest rating and according to Purolator it is still too high. Their MC specific one is rated at 9-12psi.
All you people shopping at WalMart seriously need to look into that company's policies - once you know what's really behind all those low low prices you might think twice before going into the bowels of evil again. Just sayin'...
As for filters I'm sticking with K&N as I've had excellent results since I bought the bike in 2000.
I always thought the internet was the bowels of evil.
All you people shopping at WalMart seriously need to look into that company's policies - once you know what's really behind all those low low prices you might think twice before going into the bowels of evil again. Just sayin'...
As for filters I'm sticking with K&N as I've had excellent results since I bought the bike in 2000.
I always thought the internet was the bowels of evil.
Alabama just made it legal to carry a concealed weapon on the internet.... :blink:
Why not just use a Honda oil filter? Yep, they cost a little more but Honda just MIGHT know what they're doing now and then.... :biggrin:
I use them and, for some reason, my Honda runs just fine. :pissed:
This guy who made that website that is linked on the OP did a great job. He seems to have done a good job researching the filters and tearing them apart.
I feel that the name "filter" isn't the correct word for what the oil "filter" does. It's more of a strainer than a filter. If it actually filtered the oil it would quickly plug up and then need to bypass 100% of the time in just a few thousand miles. ALL of the oil that the oil pump circulates through the engine to lubricate it goes through the "filter" for every circulation. Think of a hypothetical blood filter that is installed just beyond the human heart. How good could it be and not effect the circulation? If it was too good it would lower the circulation to such a degree that it would and starve the body of blood (and oxygen). Same for the oil filter in an automotive engine or motorcycle engine. What is important is not how good it really filters, but how well it stays together, doesn't plug up, and will be able to bypass in an emergency. If the oil filter fails and can't bypass it will destroy the engine due to oil starvation in short order.
The oil in the engine is in a well-sealed closed loop in a modern engine. It really shouldn't get "dirty" other than blowback through the combustion area of the engine throwing a bit of soot back into it past the rings. Look at a Diesel engine with super-high compression and how much soot it throws into the oil back through the rings (and turns it black in no time) but the oil still works and is clean "enough" to do its job. I'm not too worried about the cleanliness of my oil for the short time it is in there before it gets replaced with new & clean oil. Sure, there are a few tiny bits of metal that will break off here and there in the engine and get into the oil, as well as from the clutch. The filter will trap these rare larger bits with no problem. Then you change it every 5k or so and refresh the oil with good clean stuff.
When I put oil in at change time I'm very careful to clean the funnel I use and clean the oil cap area so that I'm not putting any extra dirt and grime into the engine with the new oil. I'm also careful to use a filter that I can trust not to fail and cause the oil not to be able to flow critical oil at sufficient pressure to the engine.
Dude at that website convinced me that the SuperTech ST7317 is the best filter at the price, and maybe one of the best filters period at any price for the VFR. It's too bad that the cheap WalMart option isn't the best for other bikes (and that the Suzukis don't have ANY good choices at all (even the OEM filter isn't recommended!).
I bought all the ST7317 filters I could get my hands on at the local WallyWorld and will be keeping my eye open for more. $2-ish is the price I found them at. It's nice to know they also fit on the Miata my GF drives. Love to be able to stock the same part for more than one vehicle, and paying $20 for enough filters to last a couple of years is a good thing!
Indeed the 7317 fit her like a glove, not bad for a $2 filter that's supposed to be high quality, I'm impressed.
Sweet, that's good to know. That's the same filter that I use on my 750 Vulcan. Gotta love easy shopping. (I know I quoted an old post, I'm just sayin... wink.gif )
A bunch of us have been using that filter on or Vulcans for a while without issue. I'm somewhat anal about my bikes and change the oil twice a year regardless (sometimes 3), and I live in MI where we don't get a full years worth of riding.
Does anyone have a part number for the official Honda oil filter?
15410-MFJ-D01
Don't know if this has been mentioned before, but a Honda car filter (pretty much all Honda autos have used the same filter for 15+ years) will fit on a VFR just fine. It's a little big longer and wider, so it'll hold a fractional bit more oil, but they can also be found relatively cheap. Even from a dealer they are usually less than 1/2 the price of a Honda MC filter at a moto dealer.
Also, the big thing about the relief valve is that some bikes (Older Harleys, XR650Ls, etc) have roller bearings in the bottom end that require very little oil pressure. So when the bike makes very little oil pressure, the oil filter can become plugged and still not create enough oil pressure to open the valve. The VFR to my knowledge doesn't have a roller bottom.
I'm using Bosch 3323's, and have been for probably 10 years. Easy enough to find in Canada, for $6. Bike is 20 years old and has 105k kms on it, and doesn't seem to have any oil related problems.
Edit: forgot to mention that the same filters go on my 2005 LegacyGT, and a 2007 Impreza, so probably nearly all Subarus.
Also, I think I'm about to switch to Rotella T6, which will mean the same oil all around as well.
My Kawasaki ER-6N is a [5] type filter. The kawasaki oem filter uses media like the yamaha filters instead of folded pleats. I'll remind myself to take measurements.
I use the same filter on my 1st gen 500 as on my 5th gen, even though he lists a different filter for the 500. I found that the 500 filters offered wouldn't clear my header pipe because the diameter was too big. I believe the 700/750/800 all use the same filter. He lists all gens and makes on his web site.
Don't hate me for asking this but I just got back from Wally world and saw a new fram oil filter. Called ultra it has metal screening wrapped in syn fiber. I know there are a lot of fram haters out there, but I've tried a different one with each change I've done. Yes even a 1st gen Fram. Now I've used fram on my car and trucks and never had an issue. By the way it was 8.97+ tax. Thoughts.
Don't hate me for asking this but I just got back from Wally world and saw a new fram oil filter. Called ultra it has metal screening wrapped in syn fiber. I know there are a lot of fram haters out there, but I've tried a different one with each change I've done. Yes even a 1st gen Fram. Now I've used fram on my car and trucks and never had an issue. By the way it was 8.97+ tax. Thoughts.
Why not use the specified motorcycle Fram filter for your bike, and it's only $6.50.
Don't hate me for asking this but I just got back from Wally world and saw a new fram oil filter. Called ultra it has metal screening wrapped in syn fiber. I know there are a lot of fram haters out there, but I've tried a different one with each change I've done. Yes even a 1st gen Fram. Now I've used fram on my car and trucks and never had an issue. By the way it was 8.97+ tax. Thoughts.
I use the Fram ultra filter, or the Fram standard, depends if the auto store has it on the shelf. Like Bailey said 4 years ago(!?!), anything will work sufficiently if you replace it at the specified intervals. I've stuck with Fram on my bikes and autos since '89, no blown engines yet.
A new wrinkle. Purolator has brought a new "synthetic filter" for use with synthetic oil. The part number for the 3.25 inch filter is real similar to the Purolator One, PLS14610. I found out because my local parts store was out of the PL14610, which also fits my 2008 Accord EX (4 cyl). Any thoughts on the technology? I didn't a reason to use or not use the filter as I only use synthetic oil on my 6th gen. Here's the link to the marketing on it. http://www.purolatorautofilters.com/products/oil_filters/Pages/SyntheticOilFilters.aspx
I'm guessing the new "synthetic" line of oil filters will be priced between Purolator's PureOne and their basic "L" series filters.
I'm assuming the PureOne will still be their premium oil filter since per Purolator's website they're advertising the PureOne filters @ 99.9% filtering efficiency vs. @ just 99% for the new synthetic line of oil filters.
Both should be high-quality products imo.
I plan to continue using PureOne filters in my motorcycles and other vehicles, but would not hesitate to substitute one of the new synthetic oil filters if a PureOne to fit my VFR800FI or ST1100 (PL14610 or PL14612) may not not be in stock.
I wonder if this addition to Purolator's line may lead to price increases for the PureOne oil filters though. :sad:
Hopefully not since I've purchased the PureOnes for ~$6.50, or less.
Purolator Synthetic is 99% efficient @ 25 microns while PureOnes are 99.9% efficient at 20 microns. PureOne is still the better filter. If PureOnes were not available I would take the Synthetic over the standard Purolator filter.
I just picked up the Bosch 3323. (thanks for the thread btw, looked this up while sitting in the auto parts store parking lot.) They had the Mobil 1 filters at about twice the price of the Bosch, anyone have an opinion on why I would pay $12 for the Mobil vs. $6 for the same size Bosch?
Actually, they are claiming that the synthetic line traps more dirt than the PureOne. 27 grams vs. 13 grams. They are claiming that the synthetic filter is a 10,000 mile filter. (Not that I plan to try that!) Price was identical to the PureOne, $5 at Advance Auto Parts.
Actually, they are claiming that the synthetic line traps more dirt than the PureOne. 27 grams vs. 13 grams. They are claiming that the synthetic filter is a 10,000 mile filter. (Not that I plan to try that!) Price was identical to the PureOne, $5 at Advance Auto Parts.
When I re-read the PureOne advertising materials it was not totally clear to me if the "13 grams" reference actually represents the PureOne oil filter's maximum filtration capacity. However, you may be right concluding that the new synthetic line of oil filters may be designed to capture and hold more contaminants, albeit of those a larger size @ 25 microns vs. 20 microns for PureOne filters. It's also not clear to me if the 99% filter efficiency rating for the synthetic filters was based on the larger 25 micron particle size.
The new synthetic oil filters appear to be positioned to appeal to those who prefer to use synthetic motor oils and who want to use extended drain intervals accordingly vs. the PureOne filters which have been promoted as premium oil filters which provide a near-perfect (99.9%) level of filtration efficiency. Note that for extended drain intervals some manufacturers have recommended that their oil filters be changed every 5k miles, or ~ 1/2 way thorough a 10k-mile oil change interval.
Note that filtration "efficiency" ratings promoted for the 3 Purolator oil filter lines are listed on their website as follows:
MOst mc filters open completely up (unfiltered) under full throttle conditions. I think debating which filters best under these conditions is meaningless. Actually Auto filters can prevent full oil flow under these conditions, cause they have higher pressure requirement to open up and bypass.......
Nice resource. It makes me wonder how many of the filters on the list are made in the same factory of the same materials and have a different label slapped on it.
I had my valve check done at 20K. I know some folks here have strong opinions on the need for one inside of 100K, but that's a different thread. My problem here is he used K&N oil filter when he put it back together. Some might think this is a plus, but I hate those filters. Make sure you let your mechanic know not to use that if you're with me on K&N filters.
Doing an oil change right now, and I can't take the filter off. I have some choice words for him (Gabriel at GP Moto in Bellflower, CA) in my mind as I'm going through my arsenal of tools to remove the filter. The "hex nut" on top of the filter is not a real hex nut, but rather made out of stamped steel. It deforms from the slightest amount of torque. If you try to use metal filter removal tools, it has nothing for the tool to hook into. The filter is round, with no notches. I'm ready to us the screwdriver trick, but that's the last resort. Punching the screwdriver through the filter gets messy.
Any suggestions before I punch through the filter with a screwdriver?
Edited July 27, 2013 by Viffer88
I've never had a filter that a strap wrench could not remove. They can get in to some pretty tight spaces though on your '08 you may need to drain the coolant to separate the coolant hoses in front of the filter - but if it gets the filter off, it's all good.
+1 to the strap wrench and big channel locks suggestions. I've got something that looks and works like a strap wrench but looks like one side of a bike chain-hasn't failed to ever get a filter off. Another thing you can do because it's round is put an aviation style screw clamp on it and pound it loose.
I have never had an oil filter leak by doing these two things...and I can usually remove them by hand.
A. During the oil change when you're about to install the new filter, dip you finger into the used oil pan and coat the o-ring/seal on the new filter AND the mating surface on the engine. This will keep the seal sticking/bonding to mating surface.
B. Spin the filter on until it's snug and then give an additional 1/4 to less than 1/2 turn. That's it. The seal will swell up a bit making the seal even tighter.
If you're using channel locks to get a filter off, well then overkill Bill, you're putting it on too tight and/or not applying a coat of oil to the new seal. :biggrin:
But just like oil to a certain level, anyone will work if you change it often enough or before it starts to loose it's ability to do what it's meant to do. :biggrin:
++++4 on what Baileyrock has said. Read the article, then comment. We are not closed minded, but this has all been hashed to pieces several times.
spud786
MOst mc filters open completely up (unfiltered) under full throttle conditions. I think debating which filters best under these conditions is meaningless. Actually Auto filters can prevent full oil flow under these conditions, cause they have higher pressure requirement to open up and bypass.......
The only time the by-pass opens is if the filter is near clogged and causes a backpressure which exceeds the pop-off bypass level. Motorcycles do not normally have very high pressures or high flows as compared to the auto engines that these filters were designed for. The margin of reserve flow to prevent over pressuring is quite large. Unfiltered oil is extremely unlikely if the filter is ever changed, and the oil is not sludged out. I think the important factors regards quality of filtration, especially in small micron size, is the best protective factor to consider when choosing a fliter.
dont cheap out on the oil filter- honda filter is designed for your motorcycle engine not a car-pressure is different-- also the flowback valve and the oil holes and spacings are usually different-- also don't cheap out on your oil-- if there is a oil filter for a 1986 vfr 700 that is after market and meets specs from honda please post pics of camparisions; the oil filter i have from honda is twice the size of some of these other filters meaning it filtrates more oil-thank you-- gn4 belray maxima silkcolene no problems with any of these oils and on the wingstuff.com i found 4.99 gn4 10w40 -- free shipping !!! look for deals i got 15-50 maxima ultra triple ester synthetic for 9.95 a liter!!-- its 17 bucks without tax at the dealership folks--
I've used WIX filters for my cars, in conjunction with synthetic oils. My Saturn SC2 had 196K+ miles on it when I sold it, running like a champ. I was just researching WIX for bikes and found this, for the 51358 filter which cross references with the Mobil M1-110, so it's a little bigger.
I use the PL14610 as it has a larger filter capacity. Although it does get close to the radiator hose once installed, it does fit and so far I have had no issues. If using one of the end cap filter wrenches to install/remove, it does get a bit tight and takes some finesse to get things started or out all the way.
I was using frams, for the grippy stuff on the end, but now the pureoil one is only like... 2-3 bucks more, is proven better, and has that grippy coating on it, I'm in.
Lets take "brand names" and personal preferences out of the "who makes the best oil filter" and following the you tube clip, base choice on specific performance characteristics.
I've used OE oil filters in every bike I've ever owned and no matter which brand that was, I never had a problem. Of course, getting them at dealer cost made the price point of any other brand irrelevant.
I personally think it has to due with the placement of the filter between the front header pipes, combined with K&N offshoring production and the quality dropping. Higher heat than most bikes + lower quality product = higher failure rate.
I've been using OEM or K&N filters on ALL my bikes. Over 100k miles collectively. Rotella T6 on ALL my wet clutch bikes. And the TDi's. :)
I don't get it. People spend a bunch of buying a bike, oil, mods, and time riding it then cheap out on filters. Anyone ever thought of just paying a few bucks for an OEM filter and forgetting about it?
I don't get it. People spend a bunch of buying a bike, oil, mods, and time riding it then cheap out on filters. Anyone ever thought of just paying a few bucks for an OEM filter and forgetting about it?
Because there are better choices than the OEM Honda filter for less money.
I use the longer ones no problem once there screwed on, just a little more effort required getting past the rad hoses. I use the WalMart SuperTech ST7317 Made by Champion.
Recommended filters.
All have superior
filtering.
About 2.5 inches long.
Purolator Pure One PL14612, about $6.
Mobil M1-108, about $12.
Made by Champion.
Bosch 3300, about $6.
Made by Champion.
About 3.25 inches long.
Purolator Pure One PL14610, about $6.
Mobil 1 M1-110, about $10.
Made by Champion.
Bosch 3323, about $6.
Made By Champion.
WalMart SuperTech ST7317,
about $2. Made by Champion.
You have to find one the same size as the OEM filter or it will not fit into the space. There is a very tight fit to get a filter in and out of a 2014 (8th gen model), in fact the OEM filter is a tight squeeze. The filter must fit between the radiator, header, vapor canister, radiator bracket, and hoses from the canister. If you dont have the vapor canister it would be alot easier, but a bigger filter wont fit regardless. From my first oil change post, to get an idea of the space you have available. You can see the front of the filter behind the header in the photo. Ive been told there is a purolator filter that is the same dimensions of the OEM filter and cost almost half the price and is suppiosed to be a better quality filter. Somewhere on another post the number of that filter was mentioned. [image: IMG_03711_zps30ae18e5.jpg]
Just picked the Purolator Pure One PL14610 and discovered they are no longer putting the rough yellow coat on the outside anymore which made it easy to install. It now looks like this:
Have the Walmart or Mobil options picked any outside texture to assist with installation? I ended up using a filter wrench to get it tight and put a slight dent in the filter. I'd like to avoid that situation. I've had filters leak in the past because they weren't tight.
Just picked the Purolator Pure One PL14610 and discovered they are no longer putting the rough yellow coat on the outside anymore which made it easy to install. It now looks like this:
Have the Walmart or Mobil options picked any outside texture to assist with installation? I ended up using a filter wrench to get it tight and put a slight dent in the filter. I'd like to avoid that situation. I've had filters leak in the past because they weren't tight.
Retired my old 2004 VFR in 2011 (crash), but just picked up a new to me 2007 and was pleased to see I still had a Mobil1 M1-108 and a Bosch 3300 in my oil change box!
This is exactly what happened to me 2 days ago while I was 511 miles from home. Stopped for gas and see oil dripping everywhere. Check the bike and see the end of the filter is leaking oil. Back tire partially covered with oil. Great. Middle of nowhere, hot out and I don't know anyone around.
Prior to this I have been using K&N filters on this bike since day 1. That's over obviously. Was able to get the bike to an auto parts store and pick up a Bosch. They are actually cheaper than the K&N also. I should have listened to everyone.
Don't be like me. Stop using these filters today. Don't wait for the failure to happen. I'm lucky nothing bad happened to me or the bike. Could have been a lot worse.
HispanicSlammerI have been using my reusable scotts for a few years now myself, and I get a jug of oil at wally world - mobile one 10w40. My buddy Mark did a lot of research on viscosity ratings and such and he spends the 8 bucks a quart on mobile one mtx 4stroke motorcycle oil - me I think its wasting money however I change my oil every 3k unless I am on a 5k trip or somthing where changing oil is unfeasable. [image: gallery_491_2692_171840.jpg] [image: gallery_491_2692_98579.jpg] [image: gallery_491_2692_14318.jpg]
I used one identical to HS's by PC FLO. Someone else on here also uses it as does a colleague of mine in Spain. 100s of 1000s of Km with no issues.
For those in Aus. I've used Ryco Z411 filters on my 5th Gen. A bit longer than stock, a bit cheaper than OEM. Granted, I change them reasonably regularly, but no issues so far.
New to VFR's but will relate to Purolators or Bosch leaking on my FJR..... not an issue on an ST1300 BTW. A couple of years ago there was a redesign by Purolator (who make the Bosch, owned by Bosch), the end cap was made into an outie vs. the old innie. There isn't enough depth to allow the filter to seal on some bikes, depending on their filter adapter, very simply, you can't screw it on far enough to compress the seal enough. So, I'm not sure what the filter adapter on a VFR is depth-wise into the block... the fix of course is to use somebody else's filters. On the FJR, removed the filter adapter, shaved some material off the face of the hex..... by the parts diagrams, doesn't look like the Honda one has a hex... hmmm.
PS - I have cut apart a few filters, will say that Calsci data is old and incorrect. I would not recommend today's Supertech's from Walmart, manufacturer has changed, they are crap now. Champion is gone.
So, I'm not sure what the filter adapter on a VFR is depth-wise into the block... the fix of course is to use somebody else's filters. On the FJR, removed the filter adapter, shaved some material off the face of the hex..... by the parts diagrams, doesn't look like the Honda one has a hex... hmmm.
Hi raYzerman. Not sure what you are on about here! Are you saying you shortened the length of your oil filter mounting boss? "Shaved material of the face of the hex" what hex, again are you referring to the oil filter mounting boss? Never heard of anyone needing to do that!
For what it's worth, I've never had issues with HiFlo or OEM filters, and won't go near a K&N with the so called removal hex nut spot wielded to its cap. YMMV.
Anyone ever heard of an oil filter causing a problem besides K&N? I just use OEM's and forget about it.
I hope everyone knows not to use a K&N oil filter due to the nut on the end having weld failures and spreading oil under the rear wheel while underway. That could be deadly. Just say no on K&N oil filters.
Hi raYzerman. Not sure what you are on about here! Are you saying you shortened the length of your oil filter mounting boss? "Shaved material of the face of the hex" what hex, again are you referring to the oil filter mounting boss? Never heard of anyone needing to do that!
For what it's worth, I've never had issues with HiFlo or OEM filters, and won't go near a K&N with the so called removal hex nut spot wielded to its cap. YMMV.
More of a Yamaha situation where the adapter has a hex (so you can install/remove). From the VFR parts diagram, looks like no hex, it's just a double threaded pipe (as is Suzuki). The issue of not sealing was there was not enough depth for the latest "outie" Purolators and Bosch, thus it would not allow complete compression of the filter's gasket. Merely saying the explanation for a leaking filter on a VFR may be a similar situation of relative depth, I will check further when I get to my next oil change.
I'm having a difficult time picturing what you're talking about as well... Are you talking about the actual threaded nipple that the filter screws onto having a hex?
Personally, I'm not particularly a fan of paying a premium to Honda for products that are identical to things I can get more conveniently for less money. Oil filters, fluids and the like... Do what you like... You certainly won't go wrong with OEM, but a little homework can save you money and time.
As for K&N, let's just say their marketing department is a lot better than their R&D department!
More of a Yamaha situation where the adapter has a hex (so you can install/remove). From the VFR parts diagram, looks like no hex, it's just a double threaded pipe (as is Suzuki). The issue of not sealing was there was not enough depth for the latest "outie" Purolators and Bosch, thus it would not allow complete compression of the filter's gasket. Merely saying the explanation for a leaking filter on a VFR may be a similar situation of relative depth, I will check further when I get to my next oil change.
Ok understood.
The VFR does not have a hex on the filter mounting boss, so your concern would be the thread depth on the boss in relation to using the new style of Bosch or Purolator filters!
I guess this change to the filter design on the Bosch and Purolators must have caused havoc for FJR owners who used them! Inexcusable for Bosch and Purolator to make this change knowing it could adversely effect proper sealing on particular bikes like the FJR.
In this case, sticking with the OEM might be the better, and safer option!
You are correct on the situation Grum. If you take say a Mobi1 or OEM and compare it to the latest Purolator or Bosch by looking at the end cap, you'll see the Purolator and Bosch are much shallower. On the FJR, it does have a hex on the threaded adapter, the issue was solved by machining ~.060" off the face of the hex to allow the filter to screw on a bit further.... note, most cars likely don't need as much depth? Dunno. In any case, Vulgar didn't say what filter he had the leak with..... but again, I'll check the depth on my engine when I change my filter.
You are correct on the situation Grum. If you take say a Mobi1 or OEM and compare it to the latest Purolator or Bosch by looking at the end cap, you'll see the Purolator and Bosch are much shallower. On the FJR, it does have a hex on the threaded adapter, the issue was solved by machining ~.060" off the face of the hex to allow the filter to screw on a bit further.... note, most cars likely don't need as much depth? Dunno. In any case, Vulgar didn't say what filter he had the leak with..... but again, I'll check the depth on my engine when I change my filter.
Hi raYzerman.
Vulgar1 mentioned he'd been using the K&N up until his terrible failure of that brand.
I don't know of anyone having used a recommended filter for the VFR ever having an issue like you encounterd with your FJR, this could well be due to the oil filter boss not having the hex per the FJR. So, the main message from this thread is there are numerous filter choices out there, just DON'T use the K&N with the spot weilded removal nut.
Vulgar1 mentioned he'd been using the K&N up until his terrible failure of that brand.
I don't know of anyone having used a recommended filter for the VFR ever having an issue like you encounterd with your FJR, this could well be due to the oil filter boss not having the hex per the FJR. So, the main message from this thread is there are numerous filter choices out there, just DON'T use the K&N with the spot weilded removal nut.
Cheers :beer:
I agree 100%. Nothing but air filters from Mother Honda for me.
P.S. Hope your are all right, with first the flooding and then the fires. Keeping you and yours in my thoughts.
End of thread · 128 posts recoveredWayback Machine snapshot 5 Mar 2021
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