Have a VFR400 R3. Have a persistent problem with chain getting slack after 100/150 miles. Neither chain or sprockets are worn (professional advice). The locking nut doesn't come loose either.
Does anyone know if the hubs are prone to 'turning' back round after tightening?(single swing arm)
Have a VFR400 R3. Have a persistent problem with chain getting slack after 100/150 miles. Neither chain or sprockets are worn (professional advice). The locking nut doesn't come loose either.
Does anyone know if the hubs are prone to 'turning' back round after tightening?(single swing arm)
Is it more than the required 7/8 to an inch a required play?
erm, guilty of not using torque wrench! didn't realise that could make that much difference.........where will I find out what torque should be applied? Lots of friends, mechanics have tightened by hand for me as I'm simply not strong enough (5' 2" and 120lbs!!)
IIRC the spec torque is in the neighborhood of 54-56 lb.ft. That's pretty tight. I use a 1/2" drive torque wrench and it takes a pretty good tug to get to 56 (I'm 6'6" 230).
Make sure you're getting it to spec and see what happens.
I almost had this problem some years ago, not quite as much but close. It was still unsolved when I happened to install a Scottoiler - I have never had that problem since. My deduction was that I wasn't lubricating my chain as much as I thought I was. I have since taken off the "Scotty" but I spray more often than I used to.
Does anyone know if the hubs are prone to 'turning' back round after tightening?(single swing arm)
Yes... even with specified torque I've noted that the cassette hubs are prone to creeping if it's not clocked properly... the axle should rest near the 6 o' Clock position...
If the cassette hub rest at the 5 o' Clock position the normal working of the suspension will hammer the hub to creep towards the 3 o' clock position and the chain will grow tight...
If the cassette hub is rest at the 7 o' Clock position the hub will creep towards the 9 o' clock position and the chain will grow slack... (sorry no pic)
Having the cassette clocked properly not only arrest the chain creep problem but also affords proper ride height and insures proper rake... in other words the bike will handle it's most nibbleness...
If your chain prevents you from reaching the magic 6 o' Clock position then check the shop manual... you may be short a couple of links...
HispanicSlammer, Apr 6 2005, 03:52 PMSwiffer, why did you take it off? The scott oiler that is, was it making a mess on the wheel, or was it the proprietary oil?
It was the mess. It was not as messy as people tend to think, but messy nevertheless. The problem lies in the construction - gravity is the driving force and viscosity is one important "regulator" of the flow (the other being the regulating knob obviously). It is hard to keep the flow constant when the temperature can differ 20 degrees centigrade during the course of one day (and viscosity changes with it). It drips too little in the morning and too much in the afternoon. It is not extremely bad if you learn to set it, but the rear rim and undertray never looked good. The Scottoiler oil isn't any harder or easier to use (or better for that matter) than some chain saw oil I have tried.
There is a side effect to using it, (connected to the topic of this thread) some people (in England at least) have had seized chain adjusters since the chain is never in need of tensioning!
I never adjusted the chain as long as I had oil in the oiler. And as I said above, before it was a problem - not due to lack of torque I can tell you. I tightened that bolt as hard as I could.
BusyLittleShop, Apr 6 2005, 04:43 PMYes... even with specified torque I've noted that the cassette hubs are prone to
Probably correct, just one question, when increasing the tension on a VFR chain you rotate the hub clockwise (at least 4:th gen). That would mean that you should have the axle at 12 rather than 6 - right? This is also the basis for the "excenter flip mod" that are used to increas ride height. Or am I thinking backwards?
Swiffer, Apr 6 2005, 10:07 AM Probably correct, just one question, when increasing the tension on a VFR chain you rotate the hub clockwise (at least 4:th gen). That would mean that you should have the axle at 12 rather than 6 - right? This is also the basis for the "excenter flip mod" that are used to increas ride height. Or am I thinking backwards?
Swiffer... the VFR geometry was designed with the axle near the 6 o' Clock position on a single sided swingarm so you would want to rotate the hub counter clock wise to increase tension...
Swiffer, Apr 7 2005, 05:07 AMProbably correct, just one question, when increasing the tension on a VFR chain you rotate the hub clockwise (at least 4:th gen). That would mean that you should have the axle at 12 rather than 6 - right? This is also the basis for the "excenter flip mod" that are used to increas ride height. Or am I thinking backwards?
Depends on the model. On the 5th (and 6th?) generation VFRs, the eccentric has the hub at the "'6 o'clock" position, but on earlier VFRs (unless the eccentric's been reversed for ride-height reasons), it's at the "12 o'clock" position.
you might still be within limits on chain pin wear as measured by taking a ruler to the length of x# of links, but if your chain is an o/x type chain and the internal lube is dried up, you rate of chain 'stretch'(not really stretch 'cause the added length comes from the pins and pin holes wearing) will increase RAPIDLY. with a relatively low torque bike such as your 400, i'd imagine you will dry a chain out long before you begin to wear it due to torque. then the o rings will actually keep lube out of the chain.
if you are able to get large miles out of your chain, try replacing your chain a little premature and keep the sprockets for change out every other chain. i know the arguements for and against this, but sometimes it works. as does flippin the sprockets (if the design allows it).
enzed_viffer, Apr 6 2005, 03:59 PM Depends on the model. On the 5th (and 6th?) generation VFRs, the eccentric has the hub at the "'6 o'clock" position, but on earlier VFRs (unless the eccentric's been reversed for ride-height reasons), it's at the "12 o'clock" position.
Is there a VFR Shop Manual pic that I could view that shows the cassette in the 12 o'clock position for my reference library???
BusyLittleShop, Apr 7 2005, 06:09 AMIs there a VFR Shop Manual pic that I could view that shows the cassette in the 12 o'clock position for my reference library???
The Honda manual for the 90-97 bikes are on the web somewhere. I downloaded it some years ago but after a computer breakdown I only have the paper copy. It's not stated that it should be in 12 o'clock position in the manual there is a graphic on page 13.3 that shows it if you really look. Having two 94's myself and tried the flip mod I'm pretty confident that the axle is in 12 o'clock. (you increase chain tension by putting the pin spanner on top and push downward. Seen from the bikes left side - a clockwise movement)
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