Just curious...
Does everyone torque down their pinch bolts and axle bolt?
What could happen if they're not torqued down to the proper amount? What if they're torqued too tight?
I changed my front tire and put everything back together... but I didn't torque the bolts. Is this bad?
Thanks for all the help and assistance!
If anyone in Fergus or Guelph (ON) has a torque wrench...
Thanks!
Dave
Some of the mechanical engineers like ScootR and ShipFixer can give you a more technical answer as to the reasons, but here's my thoughts:
1. In several cases, you're putting a steel bolt into an aluminum thread. Examples are the oil drain plug, spark plugs and pinch bolts, among others. In those cases, it is very easy to strip out the aluminum if the bolt is over-torqued.
2. The torque values vary widely around the bike, so it's hard to get a good "feel" for how tight the bolt is actually being torqued.
3. Steel bolts into aluminum threads creates some corrosion and thermal expansion problems. I not only try to use the right torque, but I also use an anti-seize compound to keep the bolt from freezing in the connection.
I made an Excel spreadsheet of all the torque values for all my vehicles, and keep in in the garage. It's a quick reference place for finding the proper torque values. FWIW, here are the ones I use for my 2001 VFR.
Oil drain plug - 22 ft. lbs.
Oil filter - I don't torque; just tighten as tight as possible by hand.
Rear wheel bolts - 80 ft. lbs.
Front (important to tighten in the following sequence):
axle nut - 43 ft. lbs.
calipers - 23 ft. lbs.
pinch bolts - 16 ft. lbs.
The Lurkin Merkin
Thank you very much! It makes sense about the steel into aluminum part... especially when you consider that the area we are talking about will get lots of heat from the brakes. Guess I better go get a torque wrench..
Dave
I know they are expensive but trust me get a torque wrench!!! It will make your life easier in the long run. I learned the hard way when I tried to tighten a couple generator cover bolts on an old Kawasaki and wound up breaking the head offs. Talk about a PITA to get the ends out with messing up the engine case.
I use a beam-type because is works good enough for the bike and only costs about $25. Better than torquing blind.
If you don't have Sears, there a link to the online store...
Sears Craftsman Torque WrenchHome Depot/Husky has a nice 3/8" torque wrench for $60.
http://www.homedepot.com/prel80/HDUS/EN_US...ge&cm_pla=46157If you're after just one torque wrench to do everything, get something that covers a range of ~15-100 ft. lbs. That will handle just about everything you need to do around the home. I have one of these Husky wrenches, and it works for everything except the pinch bolts. I have a smaller torque wrench that I use for those, but in a pinch (pardon the pun) you could probably cheat down on the reading to 16 ft. lbs without causing any problems......and that would still be better than not using a torque wrench at all.
I'm not a fan of the beam type. I don't think I've ever seen one of these things actually used in a metrology lab. [ScootR, chime in here....doe you use any beam type torque wrenches in the lab?]
The Lurkin Merkin
One cautionary note. In case it wasn't clear, DO NOT USE ANTI-SIEZE ON THE CALIPER BOLTS. Use a medium strength thread lock.
I totally agree that medium strength thread locker is the proper thing to use on caliper bolts.
I don't use anti-seize on the drain plug either. There's usually some oil in the threads that preclude seizure.
I use anti-seize on the rear wheel nuts, spark plugs, and the pinch bolts, which was the subject of the thread. Sorry for not being clear on anti-seize usage.
The Lurkin Merkin
Lurk is right as always, you got to have a torque wrench or you will get hurt or even worse, killed. I'm serious too, dead serious. Don't screw around with a bike, you're talking about a 2 wheel vehicle that won't even stand up on it's own much less steer or stop with 1 wheel missing.
The other must have ? A service manual, has the torque specs and instructions on loc-tite type to use. Some threads must be oiled before torqueing and that can make a big difference. On ones with a dead space hole, too much oil and it creates a hydraulic lock on bolt and gives a false, high, torque reading making you think it's tight when it ain't. Anti-seize in aluminum is critical othewise the steel thread part seizes and you got one hell of a headache and repair bill. Always, always, start them by hand/finger so as to not cross thread them !
BTW, I tighten all oil filters with a wrench at home and in the test lab. Honda was the first and only OEM so far with a torque spec on filters and boy did I beat my mechanics over the head with that at work.
There ya go flatterin' me again, ScootR. I owe you a beer at Moto GP.
The Lurkin Merkin
Well thanks for all the great advice. I was just at Home Depot Monday. I must have missed the torque wrenches. Of course, I wasn't looking for one then... Now its finally nice enough to ride, i've got new tires and a comple tune-up... and I got to wait to get a torque wrench. Man, like waiting for the snow to melt wasn't enough...
04asphalt, Apr 9 2005, 05:47 AMwhy this order?
I just replaced my front tire last night and you need to follow the proper sequence in order to make sure you do not damage your rotors and everything will run out.
The axle bolt does just that it sets the axle in the forks. But I found out that sometimes the forks do not setup correctly as far as the caliper is concerned. That is where the pinch bolt comes in. They set the forks on the axle. Working from right to left I had to check the clearances to make sure I wasn't rubbing the caliper housing. My first try had the left side caliper rubbing. But lessening the pinch bolts and some wiggling I was able to get .7 all the way around.
I always push my bike up and down several time with the front wheel against a wall to "align" the axle, before I tighten the pinch bolts. Read to do this somewhere. Anyone else heard of this. :huh:
99RC4Me, Apr 9 2005, 04:09 PMI always push my bike up and down several time with the front wheel against a wall to "align" the axle, before I tighten the pinch bolts. Read to do this somewhere. Anyone else heard of this. :huh:
Dont know if this is the same as the wall method. But I smack the bottom of the fork legs with a rubber hammer while everything is loose then tighten to spec. Seems to help with front brake dragging.
Ian