Last spring I had an '01 VFR and I attempted to lower the pegs by using the Buell XBR footpegs. They are cast aluminum and you have to do a bit of grinding and then make or buy a bushing for the pin so that they fit correctly. One of the pegs broke in my hand while I was installing them. Bought another, put it on but still wasnt satisfied with the results as I have a steel plate and 6 screws in my knee and riding in a tucked position for more than an hour gets to be very painful.
They are CNC milled out of billet aluminum and made specificaly for the Honda. Much stronger than the cast aluminum Buell pegs. Cost is $60 bucks. Supposed to drop the peg height by 1 1/2 inches. I figure I can use an aftermarket peg without the rubber pad on it and get another half to three quater inch drop also. I plan on ordering a Corbin seat to get another 1 inch lift (same as lowering the pegs another inch) for a total difference of about 3 inches, should straighten my leg just enough to ride comfortably all day.
I'll post more pics later tonight when I get them installed on my '04 VFR :)
Just curious, do you plan to remove the "feelers" from the stock pegs? It seems to me that they would become an issue if lowered another inch and a half.
Ok, looks like I'll have to remove a very minimal amount of metal from inside the stock honda peg mounting ear, it almost goes all the way on, just lacks a little ways to get the bolt thru.
Very interesting. Looks like the pegs are moved, down, forward and out a bit.
Did you ever install the LSL kit? I seem to remember that you bought one or were in the process. If you installed it, it would be great to see pics of that too.
From sitting on the bike with the left side modified and the right side stock, there is a noticable difference in peg position. I dont think I'll be needing an aftermarket peg, but I'm still going to get the corbin seat.
The peg is a little closer to the shifter, but I dont think its going to be a problem. I didnt have any trouble working the shifter with the bike on the center stand. If anything, it takes less movement of my foot to shift now.
Yeah its made for the ST1300, but Honda pegs are all the same, and its seems to work on the Interceptor just fine. I'll be sending Motorcycle Larry an email so he can add VFR to the list of bikes this thing fits.
SilVFR, Dec 22 2005, 10:57 PMVery interesting. Looks like the pegs are moved, down, forward and out a bit.
Did you ever install the LSL kit? I seem to remember that you bought one or were in the process. If you installed it, it would be great to see pics of that too.
Nope I didnt get the LSL kit, but I did order a set of Staintunes today :)
On monday I'll be ordering some helibars, a corbin seat, and a double bubble windscreen... should be good to go just about anywhere when all the stuff get installed.
JA1LER, Dec 22 2005, 10:14 PMJust curious, do you plan to remove the "feelers" from the stock pegs? It seems to me that they would become an issue if lowered another inch and a half.
They are already an issue in their stock position...well, what's left of them are. :P
well I guess I don't get as low as some of you even though my chicken strips are gone as I have never drug a feeler that I am aware of. Uh oh...another chicken strip topic...?
teleskier, Dec 23 2005, 10:36 AMwell I guess I don't get as low as some of you even though my chicken strips are gone as I have never drug a feeler that I am aware of. Uh oh...another chicken strip topic...?
Get some more triangular profile tires so you can still have your chicken strips and eat them too! :P
Yeah its made for the ST1300, but Honda pegs are all the same, and its seems to work on the Interceptor just fine. I'll be sending Motorcycle Larry an email so he can add VFR to the list of bikes this thing fits.
I asked Motorcycle Larry if he was going to make a version specifically for the VFR, Here is his reply,
"The ST-1300 peg lowering bracket will fit several other models of Honda's and even some Suzuki's. The post on filing a bit does not surprise me that much as we make the pegs lowers on the tight side so they don't rattle. My suggestion is go with what we have because if I created some for the VFR they would be exactly what we already have."
I'm thinking if you removed the ridiculously long stock peg feeler and replaced it with a short metric allen head bolt that screws all the way in, you'd probably be right about the same as far as the lean angle when things start to grind.
The billet brackets are steps in the right direction however the designer should have milled the aluminum so that the stock foot tuck closer to the bike... than way the foot peg is not only lower but rest closer to the bike which will gain back a measure of corner clearance...
Edited version: I know I asked just for pegs and perches earlier but what I really need is a whole VFR in order for this mod to come out 100% perfect... the shift side is a breeze but the brake side may pose problems... I just don't know for sure... so if there are any VFRD members near Busy Little Shop in Sac Ca and you would like to work together on a new and improved peg lowering mod... PM me... the prototype brackets are yours free for the trouble...
BusyLittleShop, Dec 30 2005, 11:20 AMThe billet brackets are steps in the right direction however the designer should have milled the aluminum so that the stock foot tuck closer to the bike... than way the foot peg is not only lower but rest closer to the bike which will gain back a measure of corner clearance... if anyone is interested send me their stock cast perches and pegs and I will machine out an new and improved peg lowering billet bracket...
How much would you charge for brackets?
Having them out a bit might actually be good. My left heel rubs on the swingarm/chainguard a bit with the stock pegs, and if the pegs were lower, I think it would be worse. I have extremely long legs, bad knees, and size 12 feet. My knees do get stiff after an hour on the bike so I'm considering at least getting the Buell pegs, and maybe a thicker seat. My stock pegs don't have the feelers, and I haven't rubbed my toes or anything yet. I do have stiffer fork springs and 32mm sag f/r, and got down to about 1/8" chicken strips on the road. I plan to do some track days, and would just go back to the stock pegs/brackets if clearance was a problem there. I may add some rear ride height, since I can flat-foot anything, that would buy me back some clearance.
fallzboater, Dec 30 2005, 11:37 AM How much would you charge for brackets?
Target price would be $50.00 a set... but it depends on a CNC shops hourly rate and material...
I know I asked just for pegs and perches earlier but what I really need is a whole VFR in order for this mod to come out 100% perfect... the shift side is a breeze but the brake side may pose problems... I just don't know for sure... so if there are any VFRD members near Busy Little Shop in Sac Ca and you would like to work together on a new and improved peg lowering mod... PM me... the prototype brackets are yours free for the trouble...
I just installed the peg extenders - ditto on the shorter shift arm. I may mod mine by either shortening it up or adding another appendage so I would have an upshift and downshift peg. It would be nice to not have to flex the ankle much to shift. My idea is to have the toe of my boot with a shift peg above and below it. If I'm just cruising, I'd pull my toe out of the shifter.
Mr Pheer, Dec 30 2005, 01:39 PMThe only problem I have to report with this mod is that now I wish my shifter were an inch shorter and my brake pedal an inch longer.
Both can be cut and welded. But you're gonna have to find someone who is proficient at both steel and aluminum.
VFR05, Dec 30 2005, 12:26 PMI agree with you fully. I have ordered the lowering brackets from MCLarry, but not yet received them. Before I install the brackets I am going to take a measurement from the floor to the stock peg feelers, while the bike is on its centerstand. After installing the lowering brackets, I will replace the stock peg feeler with an allen head bolt (length to be determined) so that the measurement from floor to the 'new' peg feeler is exactly the same as stock. I will post more info when I actually do it.
My guess from looking at it is you will wind up with a very short allen bolt, what is it an M6? or M8? x 10mm and the bolt will be fully bottomed in the threaded hole in the footpeg. Even that might be slightly lower than stock.
I just finished shortening my shift arm - first tried 1/2 inch, found it to be still too long. Took another 1/2 inch off, and it seems to be perfect for me after a test ride. I used an 8mmx1.25 flat head bolt, which is sturdy enough for the shifting duties and still leaves enough metal on the shift arm. I tapped the bolt into the shift arm and used a nylock nut on the inside of the arm as well. There seems to be plenty of clearance on the bike for the nut.
I'd recommend a grade 8 or better bolt. The one I used is black with an Allen head, so it doesn't look junky on the bike. The stock rubber shift tube fits nicely on the 8mm bolt.
BTW, I'm a boot size 10.5 US or 44 Euro.
I do like the peg extenders. I've got pretty long legs for a person 6' tall, and just felt a little cramped for legroom with the stock setup. I even like the slightly wider peg placement. No problems with the brake pedal, I just adjusted it down to suit me and there was plenty of adjustment.
tripledigits, Jan 1 2006, 02:22 PMI just finished shortening my shift arm - first tried 1/2 inch, found it to be still too long. Took another 1/2 inch off, and it seems to be perfect for me after a test ride. I used an 8mmx1.25 flat head bolt, which is sturdy enough for the shifting duties and still leaves enough metal on the shift arm. I tapped the bolt into the shift arm and used a nylock nut on the inside of the arm as well. There seems to be plenty of clearance on the bike for the nut.
Thats a good idea, I never thought of using a bolt as a shifter peg. :thumbsup:
BusyLittleShop, Dec 30 2005, 02:14 PMTarget price would be $50.00 a set... but it depends on a CNC shops hourly rate and material...
BLS - If you come up with a design that just lowers the peg but keeps the distances (shifter to peg / brake to peg) relatively unchanged I think it would be a winner. I believe there's some adjustment for angle for both these controls, but length isn't one of them. When can I put my order in????
jhugh, Jan 1 2006, 04:08 PM BLS - If you come up with a design that just lowers the peg but keeps the distances (shifter to peg / brake to peg) relatively unchanged I think it would be a winner. I believe there's some adjustment for angle for both these controls, but length isn't one of them. When can I put my order in????
I think VFR05 pointed out the distance problem in a PM... but thanks for your input... I'll keep both in mind...
You can put your order in as soon as I finalize the design and obtain a cost quote from a CNC shop...
I'm waiting for VFR05's pegs and perches to arrive by UPS... after which he'll truck his VFR up to the Busy Little Shop so we may test prototype pegs and perches...
Mr Pheer, Jan 2 2006, 01:29 AMNo, the passenger pegs are different. There are some other type of lowering pegs available on the motorcycle larry website for passengers.
Thanks for the response! I'll look into that, my wife will definitely appreciate it.
End of thread · 30 posts recoveredWayback Machine snapshot 21 Feb 2006
