The larger hole between the guides is a 1/4-20 through hole and the smaller hole that fits into the air horn mount is a 1/4-20 threaded hole.
This is the mounting position I used on the bottom of the steering column. I'm not even sure why this little tab is here. Maybe something to do with ABS which I don't have?
With the air horn installed there is still room behind it through the full range of motion of the steering. If anyone is interested in the measurements I used I would be happy to provide the info. Enjoy! :beer:
Very cool, thanks for the info. I just made a bracket to install my Stebel horn last night and hope to wire it up soon. Mine is not nearly as nice as yours. I will be using it along with the oem horn. The bracket I made is for installing it where the evap cannister once lived. Let us know how well the horn works, I can't wait to hear it. Great Job!
Yes I kept the stock horn and just used a relay for the Stebel. It's actaully kinda funny how the air horn totally blurts out the wimpy stock kazoo. Also a guy at my work said the air horn is louder than the stock horn on his Ford F-250. He's gonna get one for his truck since he can't be shown up by a motorcycle. :D
Buddy of mine just put one on his bike. I was waiting for him in a parking lot the other day. When he finally showed up he lays on the horn about 4 feet away. I nearly fell off my bike!!!!
vfrqqq, Feb 18 2006, 04:15 PMThis mod is really more for anyone who has access to a milling machine or is interested in going to a machine shop. This is the bracket I made. Used 3/8" by 1" 303 stainless steel bar stock, which I'm thinking should be plenty strong.
Really nice work vfrqqq. Hey BLS - is this next in your catalog??????
For those of you that are interested here are the dimensions of the bracket.
Outer width: 0.950" Inner width (between side walls): 0.750" Entire length: 1.6" Length of narrow end: 0.70" Width of narrow end: 0.525" Thickness of bottom surface: 0.125"
Basically this bracket started out as about a 1.65" block of 3/8" by 1" 303 stainless steel bar stock. I would recommend stainless simply for the strength. These should be all the necessary measurements. I have a diagram that I made at work that I can post next week. For those of you that are interested, I would be happy to make the bracket, however, as much as I would like to do it out of the goodness of my heart alone I can't really devote the time required without a little more incentive. That and the fact that the milling machine I use is shared so it is not always available. I would ask BusyLittleShop or consult a local machine shop on cost as that is what I would've done had the milling machine not been available to me. If cost is too high elsewhere then come back to me and I'll try to give you a good cut rate. Maybe I should open up my own shop :D
Sorry, forgot to say that the larger hole is a 1/4-20 through hole and the smaller one is a threaded 1/4-20 hole. I basically eyeballed where they needed to go.
vfrqqq, Feb 18 2006, 09:31 PMSorry, forgot to say that the larger hole is a 1/4-20 through hole and the smaller one is a threaded 1/4-20 hole. I basically eyeballed where they needed to go.
Can you explain how you decided to wire the relay? I didn't get a chance to finish my install this weekend and am still trying to figure this out. Did you splice the Green/White wire from the oem horn into terminal 86, and ground terminal 85 directly to the frame? What size fuse did you use? If I remember correctly the directions called for a 15 or 20 amp, but the review that is linked below said to go with a 30 amp?
From the link below it says: "Per the manufacturer, this horn should be mounted so that the cylinder is vertical (with the horn facing down). There should be no more than a 15 degree variance from the vertical position. If it is not mounted per these specifications, then the horn may cease to function after a period of time."
But then in their V-Strom install they mounted the cylinder horizontal like yourself. Does this even matter?
For the relay I just used two T-tap connectors (much easier than splicing) on the wires going to the stock horn so that the relay sees the 12VDC when the horn button is pushed. These wires connected to pin 85 and 86 on the relay. Pin 30 should connect to your battery and 87 to the positive terminal of the air horn. I just ran a wire directly from the negative terminal of the battery to the negative terminal of the horn. I decided to go with 14 gauge wire which I think is more than large enough for the current draw on the horn. In the info paper that came with the horn it indicated that the current draw for my setup is about 18A so I used a 20A fuse. I made connections directly from the battery to the relay and then to the horn. Finally, I never read anything about the cylinder needing to be no more than 15 degrees from level. I dunno, but I think it should be fine. There is another guy (vfr03silver) on this forum that has a Stebel but I'm not exactly sure how his is oriented. You could ask him. Personally, I'm not really going to worry about it. I'm happy to answer any other questions you may have.
:D
Anders
ProMed, Feb 20 2006, 02:12 PMCan you explain how you decided to wire the relay? I didn't get a chance to finish my install this weekend and am still trying to figure this out. Did you splice the Green/White wire from the oem horn into terminal 86, and ground terminal 85 directly to the frame? What size fuse did you use? If I remember correctly the directions called for a 15 or 20 amp, but the review that is linked below said to go with a 30 amp?
From the link below it says: "Per the manufacturer, this horn should be mounted so that the cylinder is vertical (with the horn facing down). There should be no more than a 15 degree variance from the vertical position. If it is not mounted per these specifications, then the horn may cease to function after a period of time."
But then in their V-Strom install they mounted the cylinder horizontal like yourself. Does this even matter?
vfrqqq, Feb 20 2006, 11:31 AMFor the relay I just used two T-tap connectors (much easier than splicing) on the wires going to the stock horn so that the relay sees the 12VDC when the horn button is pushed. These wires connected to pin 85 and 86 on the relay. Pin 30 should connect to your battery and 87 to the positive terminal of the air horn. I just ran a wire directly from the negative terminal of the battery to the negative terminal of the horn.
Anders, Thank you for the info! Do you remember if you had the green wire going to pin 85 and the green/white wire to pin 86? Not really sure if it matters since it seems they are reversible. How does it sound?!
Honestly I can't remember, but I think it should work one way and not the other since it is just an inductor that mechanically switches the circuit. The horn sounds amazing. It really is quite loud. I think I will have to use it with great discrimination so that I don't freak out some idiot that I'm just trying to let know he's doing something stupid.
Just ordered the horn. Have had to hit the useless horn a few times with less than desirable results. Now if I could just shoot out there tires as I go by, mmmm.
From the link below it says: "Per the manufacturer, this horn should be mounted so that the cylinder is vertical (with the horn facing down). There should be no more than a 15 degree variance from the vertical position. If it is not mounted per these specifications, then the horn may cease to function after a period of time."
But then in their V-Strom install they mounted the cylinder horizontal like yourself. Does this even matter?
The answer is very simple?we do not want you to risk having water and/or debris enter the mouth of the horn. We need it in a position that gravity helps us.
Thanks for your question.
Devon S. Woodard devon.woodard@stebel.it Tel +39-348-910-7372 Fax +39-0444-414188 Stebel S.p.A. Via Cinosa n.10 36040 Grisignano di Zocco (VI) ITALY
WHere did you buy your Stebel Nautilus horn from? I do not see anywhere to order direct from Stebel on their website. In teh meantime I'll search around the usual distributor suspects. THANKS.
vfrqqq, Feb 18 2006, 06:25 PMFor those of you that are interested here are the dimensions of the bracket.
Outer width: 0.950" Inner width (between side walls): 0.750" Entire length: 1.6" Length of narrow end: 0.70" Width of narrow end: 0.525" Thickness of bottom surface: 0.125"
Basically this bracket started out as about a 1.65" block of 3/8" by 1" 303 stainless steel bar stock. I would recommend stainless simply for the strength. These should be all the necessary measurements. I have a diagram that I made at work that I can post next week. For those of you that are interested, I would be happy to make the bracket, however, as much as I would like to do it out of the goodness of my heart alone I can't really devote the time required without a little more incentive. That and the fact that the milling machine I use is shared so it is not always available. I would ask BusyLittleShop or consult a local machine shop on cost as that is what I would've done had the milling machine not been available to me. If cost is too high elsewhere then come back to me and I'll try to give you a good cut rate. Maybe I should open up my own shop :D
Enjoy!
i don't know if i'm doing this thing right, so, if it doesn't come out right, i guess i'll have to try again.
vfrqqq, excellent work. if you might be able to provide some of us with the bracket, can you let us know what you would need to charge? my e-mail is fourmerly5@juno.com (i hope this is allowed).
also, i wonder if you might have the time to delve into as much detail as possible regarding the electrical installation. i've read your explanatio, but, being an extreme novice, would appreciate, if possible, a step-by-step instruction...
vfrqqq, Feb 18 2006, 01:15 PMThis mod is really more for anyone who has access to a milling machine or is interested in going to a machine shop.
This is the bracket I made. Used 3/8" by 1" 303 stainless steel bar stock, which I'm thinking should be plenty strong.
I just made the same bracket, and now that I can mount it, I see that the suspension travel could cause the front fender to strike the horn if I were to hit a big bump while driving along. How do you deal with that?
Anybody got any 5th Gen pix or info for mounting the Stebel under the starter motor, using former evap canister mounts, bracket fabrication and such? Unless someone has had success that I can't forsee, it looks to me that there's not enough room to use the existing horn bracket, considering full vertical travel of the wheel. I am a little worried that the horn will bake above the headers there when the bike isn't moving, but figgered I'd give it a try. If it melts, it melts. The pipes swing to the left down there, so it give the right side of the oil pan area a little break. I guess since there's FAIRING right there, it can't be too hellish.
I'll be ditching the stock horn. The existing horn bracket would an excellent location for the relay, since that's where the existing horn button wires already go. Or, the relay could go where the PAIR valve used to be, as I think the wires will reach without lock-to-lock problems. And, I'm pretty sure the existing terminals just slip right on to the relay's blades, but haven't done a full mockup yet, so dunno. Power from the battery would be easy to run to that location, and then it looks like the power wire down to the horn can be zip-tied along the oil cooler line. Ground will go to the engine. No need to run back to the battery, IMO.
I'm gonna do this in the next few days. [These are pre-JetHot pics!! :o ]
(IMG:http://www.vfrdiscussion.com/forum/uploads/1141920496/gallery_4707_1202_1002191.jpg) Engine Side View
(IMG:http://www.vfrdiscussion.com/forum/uploads/1146529340/gallery_4707_1202_1405844.jpg) Engine Front View
Any idea how a 5th Gen differs from a 6th Gen when it comes to how the evap canister is mounted? I bought a Stebel Nautilus for my '05 w/ABS, but since it's lowered between the forks is no longer an option, and with all the ABS stuff there isn't any room except where the evap can used to reside. For what it's worth I think the Stebel would be okay as long as it isn't mounted right next to the headers...of course the radiator hoses are made to withstand high temps whereas the horn plastic is not designed for that, but in my opinion it's more about "radiated" heat from the headers and not how hot they might be to the touch.
Anyway Trace, let us know how your experiment turns out, as I'm hoping your design can be used on my 6th Gen.
With a little help, I installed the Stebel onto my 02 yesterday. What a difference it makes, it is LOUD.
Many thanks to VPOWER for making me up a bracket, VFRGGG for the bracket measurements and write up, and Billr in G'town for helping me out with the wiring and install - and Lobster for procuring the horn for me.
This is a mod worth doing, yet I hope to never need it... highly recomend it.
End of thread · 30 posts recoveredWayback Machine snapshot 28 Mar 2007
