Hey all. I'm looking at getting a Power Commander III USB for my 02. I have Staintunes currently installed.
I know Dynojet has a map for this setup, but I was wondering if the same map would still be fully compatible if I added a K&N filter and possibly did the airbox mod that is listed on this site?
Are there places other than Dynojet where custom maps are available for non-stock set-ups?
nasadiver, Dec 24 2006, 05:10 PMHey all. I'm looking at getting a Power Commander III USB for my 02. I have Staintunes currently installed.
I know Dynojet has a map for this setup, but I was wondering if the same map would still be fully compatible if I added a K&N filter and possibly did the airbox mod that is listed on this site?
Are there places other than Dynojet where custom maps are available for non-stock set-ups?
Thanks,
the map should still work fine. i noticed no change with my map when i had added the K&N
nasadiver, Dec 24 2006, 05:10 PMHey all. I'm looking at getting a Power Commander III USB for my 02. I have Staintunes currently installed.
I know Dynojet has a map for this setup, but I was wondering if the same map would still be fully compatible if I added a K&N filter and possibly did the airbox mod that is listed on this site?
Are there places other than Dynojet where custom maps are available for non-stock set-ups?
Thanks,
the map should still work fine. i noticed no change with my map when i had added the K&N
Thanks. I was hoping it wouldn't be an issue. I have only had the bike for about a month. It had 4,000 when I got it. I've put about 1,200 on it so far. It doesn't have the PC III on it yet and I think it may be running a little rich. I checked a couple of the plugs, and although I wouldn't call them "fouled" just yet,...they were a little darker around the top of the threads and post then I though they should be for right around 5K. They were a little damp as well.
Hopefully the PC III and some new Denso plugs will clear that up.
nasadiver, Dec 24 2006, 05:10 PMHey all. I'm looking at getting a Power Commander III USB for my 02. I have Staintunes currently installed.
I know Dynojet has a map for this setup, but I was wondering if the same map would still be fully compatible if I added a K&N filter and possibly did the airbox mod that is listed on this site?
Are there places other than Dynojet where custom maps are available for non-stock set-ups?
Thanks,
the map should still work fine. i noticed no change with my map when i had added the K&N
Thanks. I was hoping it wouldn't be an issue. I have only had the bike for about a month. It had 4,000 when I got it. I've put about 1,200 on it so far. It doesn't have the PC III on it yet and I think it may be running a little rich. I checked a couple of the plugs, and although I wouldn't call them "fouled" just yet,...they were a little darker around the top of the threads and post then I though they should be for right around 5K. They were a little damp as well.
Hopefully the PC III and some new Denso plugs will clear that up.
Thanks again.
if its rich, it would be the first one i have seen. they are usually VERY lean stock. when you look at the numbers on the PC III maps you can see they are almost always positive numbers adding in extra fuel. when i went to the MIG exhaust it was lean popping on decell and i had to add even more fuel to the "0" throttle setting column.
forget the thread color.. you judge a plug by the color of the ceramic center.... if its white, way to lean... dark brown or black ,way to rich.. the perfect color is TAN..... cofee with cream... (IMG:style_emoticons/oldemoticons/fing02.gif)
Thanks. I was hoping it wouldn't be an issue. I have only had the bike for about a month. It had 4,000 when I got it. I've put about 1,200 on it so far. It doesn't have the PC III on it yet and I think it may be running a little rich. I checked a couple of the plugs, and although I wouldn't call them "fouled" just yet,...they were a little darker around the top of the threads and post then I though they should be for right around 5K. They were a little damp as well.
Hopefully the PC III and some new Denso plugs will clear that up.
Thanks again. [/quote]
The plugs are supposed to be good for 30,000 mile, I've got 15,000 on mine I may replace around 20/25,000 since they never been pulled and thread lubed. Did you run the bike for a couple minutes before removing plugs, just wondering why they would be wet and that would probably do it.
With the Iridiums life expectancy at 30,000( and really they would probably go longer) and being I like to keep maintenance minimal, I see no reason not the stick to the NGK Iridiums, just locate a decent price for them.
My experience with VFR thus far, spend your time keepin brake and clutch fluid fresh, and change fork oil by 10,000 mile, everything else seems to be very sound.
gll429, Dec 24 2006, 11:27 PMforget the thread color.. you judge a plug by the color of the ceramic center.... if its white, way to lean... dark brown or black ,way to rich.. the perfect color is TAN..... cofee with cream... (IMG:style_emoticons/oldemoticons/fing02.gif)
THERE IS ONLY ONE WAY TO TUNE AN ENGINE AND THAT'S ON A DYNO,OTHERWISE YOU ARE GUESSING WHICH NOT ADVISED.SPEND THE MONEY AND GET IT RIGHT.
moto gp fan, Dec 25 2006, 08:07 AMTHERE IS ONLY ONE WAY TO TUNE AN ENGINE AND THAT'S ON A DYNO,OTHERWISE YOU ARE GUESSING WHICH NOT ADVISED.SPEND THE MONEY AND GET IT RIGHT.
+1 on that. I've got PC3 and the map off Dynojet website then dyno'ed my bike to see how it was Air/Fuel wise. Was still running horribly lean. Tweeked the map a little, then put K&N Air filter on. Used Dynojet website downloaded that map. Dyno'ed it again, once again Air/Fuel was still running lean even w/ recommended map off there site. (The map with K&N & Staintunes is only about half as lean as the map with just the Staintunes) VFR's run lean from the factory primarily for emissions purpose. Its not good on them, but its not bad enough to cause serious damages over a several year lifespan. In time, even with the factory lean setting you will see slight heat related damages. When using the maps found on the Dynojet website, I found that there maps left the bike running about as lean as the bike does from the factory still with stock pipes. It helps, but its still not accurate. Fortunately, I have a Dyno at my school that i'm allowed to spend a lot of time with and test these things out. To get a bike perfectly tuned, ur going to have to spend the $250-350 to get it done my someone Dyno trained. For most cases its not big enough of a deal for people to worry about it. But, every bike is slightly different, using general maps aren't prefectly accurate, but usually close enough for most cases. But spending the $$$ will get you a more accurate tuning. I got mine tuned nearly perfect with K&N and Staintunes, but to get the air / fuel ratio correct, I was pumping so much fuel that my fuel milage went from 220 /tank, to 140 /tank.
When I get back to school on Tuesday, 2nd. I'll get the map's for both that I used that were accuratly tuned to my bike and post um up. I'm not at home to even hook up to my power commander atm and pull the map off of it.
moto gp fan, Dec 25 2006, 08:07 AMTHERE IS ONLY ONE WAY TO TUNE AN ENGINE AND THAT'S ON A DYNO,OTHERWISE YOU ARE GUESSING WHICH NOT ADVISED.SPEND THE MONEY AND GET IT RIGHT.
+1 on that. I've got PC3 and the map off Dynojet website then dyno'ed my bike to see how it was Air/Fuel wise. Was still running horribly lean. Tweeked the map a little, then put K&N Air filter on. Used Dynojet website downloaded that map. Dyno'ed it again, once again Air/Fuel was still running lean even w/ recommended map off there site. (The map with K&N & Staintunes is only about half as lean as the map with just the Staintunes) VFR's run lean from the factory primarily for emissions purpose. Its not good on them, but its not bad enough to cause serious damages over a several year lifespan. In time, even with the factory lean setting you will see slight heat related damages. When using the maps found on the Dynojet website, I found that there maps left the bike running about as lean as the bike does from the factory still with stock pipes. It helps, but its still not accurate. Fortunately, I have a Dyno at my school that i'm allowed to spend a lot of time with and test these things out. To get a bike perfectly tuned, ur going to have to spend the $250-350 to get it done my someone Dyno trained. For most cases its not big enough of a deal for people to worry about it. But, every bike is slightly different, using general maps aren't prefectly accurate, but usually close enough for most cases. But spending the $$$ will get you a more accurate tuning. I got mine tuned nearly perfect with K&N and Staintunes, but to get the air / fuel ratio correct, I was pumping so much fuel that my fuel milage went from 220 /tank, to 140 /tank.
When I get back to school on Tuesday, 2nd. I'll get the map's for both that I used that were accuratly tuned to my bike and post um up. I'm not at home to even hook up to my power commander atm and pull the map off of it.
so when am i allowed to ride the RSV over to Orlando and have a School paid for Dyno tune session done? (IMG:style_emoticons/oldemoticons/fing02.gif)
I have the same setup (05 VFR, Staintunes, K&N, PCIII) and will be doing a dynojet run in spring.
tinyminds, Dec 25 2006, 09:22 AMI got mine tuned nearly perfect with K&N and Staintunes, but to get the air / fuel ratio correct, I was pumping so much fuel that my fuel milage went from 220 /tank, to 140 /tank.
So, what did you do when you noticed this? Did you keep the new lower MPG or did you modify it to be a bit leaner?
I have the same setup (05 VFR, Staintunes, K&N, PCIII) and will be doing a dynojet run in spring.
tinyminds, Dec 25 2006, 09:22 AMI got mine tuned nearly perfect with K&N and Staintunes, but to get the air / fuel ratio correct, I was pumping so much fuel that my fuel milage went from 220 /tank, to 140 /tank.
So, what did you do when you noticed this? Did you keep the new lower MPG or did you modify it to be a bit leaner?
Any insights is appreciated.
I took the K&N airfilter out and remapped it w/ just the staintunes. Not that fuel milage is the most important thing, but when my bikes getting the same fuel milage or less than then 600cc's with a 3.x gallon tank, thats rediculous. There just wasn't enough power gain there for me to see using that much more fuel. So that was my solution rather than letting the bike run lean and risk valve damage over the long haul. Hope that helps.
PS: Fixer, i was able to get by w/ doing mine because i'm in the honda program at school, and I used my bike as a independent study project. If we had an Aprilia program, maybe I could get by w/ it, until then, sorry man (IMG:style_emoticons/oldemoticons/blink.gif)
I have the same setup (05 VFR, Staintunes, K&N, PCIII) and will be doing a dynojet run in spring.
tinyminds, Dec 25 2006, 09:22 AMI got mine tuned nearly perfect with K&N and Staintunes, but to get the air / fuel ratio correct, I was pumping so much fuel that my fuel milage went from 220 /tank, to 140 /tank.
So, what did you do when you noticed this? Did you keep the new lower MPG or did you modify it to be a bit leaner?
Any insights is appreciated.
I took the K&N airfilter out and remapped it w/ just the staintunes. Not that fuel milage is the most important thing, but when my bikes getting the same fuel milage or less than then 600cc's with a 3.x gallon tank, thats rediculous. There just wasn't enough power gain there for me to see using that much more fuel. So that was my solution rather than letting the bike run lean and risk valve damage over the long haul. Hope that helps.
PS: Fixer, i was able to get by w/ doing mine because i'm in the honda program at school, and I used my bike as a independent study project. If we had an Aprilia program, maybe I could get by w/ it, until then, sorry man (IMG:style_emoticons/oldemoticons/blink.gif)
TM,
Can you clarify something for me? Where do the exhaust gas analyzer probes go on bikes like ours? I've seen guys do tuning sessions with the probes inserted into the exhaust outlet which seems like a mistake to me. If the probes go in downstream of the cat (the job of which is to reduce/eliminate unburned fuel), it seems to me the exhaust will always appear lean to the analyzer unless you dump enough fuel in to overwhelm the cat. Seems to me the analysis should be based on the exhaust upstream of the cat, perhaps removing the O2 sensors and using those ports. Does this make sense? How did you do yours?
I have staintunes and a KN. I found that the dynojet maps used too much fuel, had a flat spot around 6k, and a huge stutter at vtec. I tweaked my own map over several revisions to get the fuel mileage back closer to stock and to smooth out the flat spots. The dynojet maps did really improve the 10-12k power though. What I ended up with was a map that is richer than stock, but less rich than a dynojet map from 3k - 8k, and pretty much the same as dynojet from 8k up. Bike runs great now and I'm getting about 40-42 mpg mostly, unless I'm in 3rd gear all day then its more like 36mpg. I think there are a few people using my map that have similar results. I know if you shell out the money for a pro dyno tune, you can get a nice map. I've questioned whether its really worth it however as I don't really see a dyno perfectly mimicking all of the different variables I experience riding the bike. The dyno won't mimick me going up hill in third with half a throttle at 90mph with wind rushing by after the temp has dropped 10 degrees because I'm 3k feet above where I was 20 minutes ago. A dyno will get your A/F mix to a predermined about at a given steady throttle input standing still at one elevation on a given day for those conditions. I would make the argument that if you invest enough time in seat of the pants testing, don't do anything to extreme, and learn what running to lean feels like that you can make a better map. I don't see any dyno's in the pits at an AMA race. Sure, they may have originally tuned the bike on a dyno to get a base map, but do you really think those guys aren't messing with the fuel curve on Thursday practice based on what the rider and track times is telling them? I also think there are a lot of tuners that have trouble with the vtec transition. Most of the custom maps I have seen have a horrible adjustment in the vtec range and have the same big stutter as the dynojet map.
I have the same setup (05 VFR, Staintunes, K&N, PCIII) and will be doing a dynojet run in spring.
tinyminds, Dec 25 2006, 09:22 AMI got mine tuned nearly perfect with K&N and Staintunes, but to get the air / fuel ratio correct, I was pumping so much fuel that my fuel milage went from 220 /tank, to 140 /tank.
So, what did you do when you noticed this? Did you keep the new lower MPG or did you modify it to be a bit leaner?
Any insights is appreciated.
I took the K&N airfilter out and remapped it w/ just the staintunes. Not that fuel milage is the most important thing, but when my bikes getting the same fuel milage or less than then 600cc's with a 3.x gallon tank, thats rediculous. There just wasn't enough power gain there for me to see using that much more fuel. So that was my solution rather than letting the bike run lean and risk valve damage over the long haul. Hope that helps.
PS: Fixer, i was able to get by w/ doing mine because i'm in the honda program at school, and I used my bike as a independent study project. If we had an Aprilia program, maybe I could get by w/ it, until then, sorry man (IMG:style_emoticons/oldemoticons/blink.gif)
TM,
Can you clarify something for me? Where do the exhaust gas analyzer probes go on bikes like ours? I've seen guys do tuning sessions with the probes inserted into the exhaust outlet which seems like a mistake to me. If the probes go in downstream of the cat (the job of which is to reduce/eliminate unburned fuel), it seems to me the exhaust will always appear lean to the analyzer unless you dump enough fuel in to overwhelm the cat. Seems to me the analysis should be based on the exhaust upstream of the cat, perhaps removing the O2 sensors and using those ports. Does this make sense? How did you do yours?
Thanks,
Bingo. You replace the two o2 sensor's with the little sniffer probe. If you go straight into the tail pipe, which is what a lot of your cheapy driveby-dyno's do, the cat will show the bike running leaner than it is. The sesnor's screw in just like the 02 sensors do. I found an example on Ebay of a generic EGA Machine, it will give you a basic example of what a dyno air/fuel (EGA) does. Link Here
cozye, Dec 29 2006, 07:16 AMI have staintunes and a KN. I found that the dynojet maps used too much fuel, had a flat spot around 6k, and a huge stutter at vtec. I tweaked my own map over several revisions to get the fuel mileage back closer to stock and to smooth out the flat spots. ..............
When you installed the PC, did you also add the two O2 sensor eliminators or are they optional?
If the bike appears to be running pretty well as-is, with just the Staintunes on, should I even bother with throwing on the PC with or without the K&N?
If the only after market performance related add-on I have is the 'Tunes, will the $300 bonez for the PC be worth it? How much gain should I expect?
cozye, Dec 29 2006, 07:16 AMI have staintunes and a KN. I found that the dynojet maps used too much fuel, had a flat spot around 6k, and a huge stutter at vtec. I tweaked my own map over several revisions to get the fuel mileage back closer to stock and to smooth out the flat spots. ..............
When you installed the PC, did you also add the two O2 sensor eliminators or are they optional?
If the bike appears to be running pretty well as-is, with just the Staintunes on, should I even bother with throwing on the PC with or without the K&N?
If the only after market performance related add-on I have is the 'Tunes, will the $300 bonez for the PC be worth it? How much gain should I expect?
Thanks in advance
You need the O2 sensor eliminators -- the PC will not work appropriately without them.
IMO, you don't need the PC with the Staintunes. I doubt you're leaning out the mixture meaningfully by adding a slipon behind the catalytic converter.
The PC/Staintunes combo may get you an additional 3 - 4 max HP if you also have a custom map made. Others have added the PC to smooth out a lean spot from 4-5k on some bikes and the VTEC transition. You have to judge the value, but if you do add the PC you will probably have to play with the standard Dynojet map or get it Dyno'd to get the best results. The standard map was too rich for my 03 with Staintunes and left me with a large VTEC kick. I solved this by building my own map with an air/fuel meter.
cozye, Dec 29 2006, 07:16 AMI have staintunes and a KN. I found that the dynojet maps used too much fuel, had a flat spot around 6k, and a huge stutter at vtec. I tweaked my own map over several revisions to get the fuel mileage back closer to stock and to smooth out the flat spots. ..............
When you installed the PC, did you also add the two O2 sensor eliminators or are they optional?
If the bike appears to be running pretty well as-is, with just the Staintunes on, should I even bother with throwing on the PC with or without the K&N?
If the only after market performance related add-on I have is the 'Tunes, will the $300 bonez for the PC be worth it? How much gain should I expect?
Thanks in advance
You need the O2 sensor eliminators -- the PC will not work appropriately without them.
IMO, you don't need the PC with the Staintunes. I doubt you're leaning out the mixture meaningfully by adding a slipon behind the catalytic converter.
The PC/Staintunes combo may get you an additional 3 - 4 max HP if you also have a custom map made. Others have added the PC to smooth out a lean spot from 4-5k on some bikes and the VTEC transition. You have to judge the value, but if you do add the PC you will probably have to play with the standard Dynojet map or get it Dyno'd to get the best results. The standard map was too rich for my 03 with Staintunes and left me with a large VTEC kick. I solved this by building my own map with an air/fuel meter.
yep you have to eliminate the o2 sensors for the pc III
may not need the pc III for the staintunes? quite possible. but at sea level i had to have the PC III for the mig exhaust i had. horribly lean afterwards. terrible pop on decell.
cozye, Dec 29 2006, 01:16 PMI have staintunes and a KN. I found that the dynojet maps used too much fuel, had a flat spot around 6k, and a huge stutter at vtec. I tweaked my own map over several revisions to get the fuel mileage back closer to stock and to smooth out the flat spots. The dynojet maps did really improve the 10-12k power though. What I ended up with was a map that is richer than stock, but less rich than a dynojet map from 3k - 8k, and pretty much the same as dynojet from 8k up. Bike runs great now and I'm getting about 40-42 mpg mostly, unless I'm in 3rd gear all day then its more like 36mpg. I think there are a few people using my map that have similar results. I know if you shell out the money for a pro dyno tune, you can get a nice map. I've questioned whether its really worth it however as I don't really see a dyno perfectly mimicking all of the different variables I experience riding the bike. The dyno won't mimick me going up hill in third with half a throttle at 90mph with wind rushing by after the temp has dropped 10 degrees because I'm 3k feet above where I was 20 minutes ago. A dyno will get your A/F mix to a predermined about at a given steady throttle input standing still at one elevation on a given day for those conditions. I would make the argument that if you invest enough time in seat of the pants testing, don't do anything to extreme, and learn what running to lean feels like that you can make a better map. I don't see any dyno's in the pits at an AMA race. Sure, they may have originally tuned the bike on a dyno to get a base map, but do you really think those guys aren't messing with the fuel curve on Thursday practice based on what the rider and track times is telling them? I also think there are a lot of tuners that have trouble with the vtec transition. Most of the custom maps I have seen have a horrible adjustment in the vtec range and have the same big stutter as the dynojet map.
cozye, Dec 29 2006, 07:16 AMI have staintunes and a KN. I found that the dynojet maps used too much fuel, had a flat spot around 6k, and a huge stutter at vtec. I tweaked my own map over several revisions to get the fuel mileage back closer to stock and to smooth out the flat spots. ..............
When you installed the PC, did you also add the two O2 sensor eliminators or are they optional?
If the bike appears to be running pretty well as-is, with just the Staintunes on, should I even bother with throwing on the PC with or without the K&N?
If the only after market performance related add-on I have is the 'Tunes, will the $300 bonez for the PC be worth it? How much gain should I expect?
Thanks in advance
I used homemade o2 eliminators from 300 ohm resistors. There is a simple howto here on the forum.
You don't need the pc with staintunes. The bike will run pretty much like it does stock. I do think it was a worth while mod though. It's not that it gives you more power, its that it smooths out and widens the useful powerband on the bike. Before the pc3 there were flat spots in certain rpm ranges, and the bike would stop pulling at 10.5k. I never had to look at the tach because I could feel it fall off at 10.5. Now it pulls hard right up to redline. The flat spot before vtec is gone. The bottem end is a little better 4-5k. It just smooths the whole thing out a bit where it pulls more linear and consistant througout. I've ridden it with a 0 map (stock mapping) since creating my own maps, and it is a big difference. Might not be worth 300 to some, but it is to me.
cozye, Dec 29 2006, 01:16 PMI have staintunes and a KN. I found that the dynojet maps used too much fuel, had a flat spot around 6k, and a huge stutter at vtec. I tweaked my own map over several revisions to get the fuel mileage back closer to stock and to smooth out the flat spots. The dynojet maps did really improve the 10-12k power though. What I ended up with was a map that is richer than stock, but less rich than a dynojet map from 3k - 8k, and pretty much the same as dynojet from 8k up. Bike runs great now and I'm getting about 40-42 mpg mostly, unless I'm in 3rd gear all day then its more like 36mpg. I think there are a few people using my map that have similar results. I know if you shell out the money for a pro dyno tune, you can get a nice map. I've questioned whether its really worth it however as I don't really see a dyno perfectly mimicking all of the different variables I experience riding the bike. The dyno won't mimick me going up hill in third with half a throttle at 90mph with wind rushing by after the temp has dropped 10 degrees because I'm 3k feet above where I was 20 minutes ago. A dyno will get your A/F mix to a predermined about at a given steady throttle input standing still at one elevation on a given day for those conditions. I would make the argument that if you invest enough time in seat of the pants testing, don't do anything to extreme, and learn what running to lean feels like that you can make a better map. I don't see any dyno's in the pits at an AMA race. Sure, they may have originally tuned the bike on a dyno to get a base map, but do you really think those guys aren't messing with the fuel curve on Thursday practice based on what the rider and track times is telling them? I also think there are a lot of tuners that have trouble with the vtec transition. Most of the custom maps I have seen have a horrible adjustment in the vtec range and have the same big stutter as the dynojet map.
cozye, Dec 29 2006, 07:16 AMI have staintunes and a KN. I found that the dynojet maps used too much fuel, had a flat spot around 6k, and a huge stutter at vtec. I tweaked my own map over several revisions to get the fuel mileage back closer to stock and to smooth out the flat spots. ..............
When you installed the PC, did you also add the two O2 sensor eliminators or are they optional?
If the bike appears to be running pretty well as-is, with just the Staintunes on, should I even bother with throwing on the PC with or without the K&N?
If the only after market performance related add-on I have is the 'Tunes, will the $300 bonez for the PC be worth it? How much gain should I expect?
Thanks in advance
Just an opinion here...
If you want a pc, then go for it!
You will proably enjoy tweaking your bike with your laptop, and the many runs you'll do after testing the multiple maps you are able to come up with... The way I see it, is that it is a toy, and a very usefull toy to those who are willing to put effort into the process of finding maps for the bike... Some maps could be for fuel economy... Others could be for peak performance. So, should all of them be contributing to Smoooth operation? YES! Having maps for the track -vs-maps for touring, obviously accents this configuration.
It really is a cool toy to have! It does what we ask of it (how we ask!).... Like anything, it is up to the operator to decide where & what happens, period! It could be too much, and/or unusefull... Or, it could be proffessionally tuned. Or, it could ALL be managed by you, the one who knows what feels right. It just takes time to configure a bike to optimum performance on your own... and this is the easiest product out there to change things (reasonably).....
Many many many trials & errors ends up with desired results. It just takes time!
No worries about hp when your tuning to feel... Which is an option available to those who decide to hook up the PC....
cozye, Dec 29 2006, 08:16 AMI have staintunes and a KN. I found that the dynojet maps used too much fuel, had a flat spot around 6k, and a huge stutter at vtec. I tweaked my own map over several revisions to get the fuel mileage back closer to stock and to smooth out the flat spots. The dynojet maps did really improve the 10-12k power though. What I ended up with was a map that is richer than stock, but less rich than a dynojet map from 3k - 8k, and pretty much the same as dynojet from 8k up. Bike runs great now and I'm getting about 40-42 mpg mostly, unless I'm in 3rd gear all day then its more like 36mpg. I think there are a few people using my map that have similar results. I know if you shell out the money for a pro dyno tune, you can get a nice map. I've questioned whether its really worth it however as I don't really see a dyno perfectly mimicking all of the different variables I experience riding the bike. The dyno won't mimick me going up hill in third with half a throttle at 90mph with wind rushing by after the temp has dropped 10 degrees because I'm 3k feet above where I was 20 minutes ago. A dyno will get your A/F mix to a predermined about at a given steady throttle input standing still at one elevation on a given day for those conditions. I would make the argument that if you invest enough time in seat of the pants testing, don't do anything to extreme, and learn what running to lean feels like that you can make a better map. I don't see any dyno's in the pits at an AMA race. Sure, they may have originally tuned the bike on a dyno to get a base map, but do you really think those guys aren't messing with the fuel curve on Thursday practice based on what the rider and track times is telling them? I also think there are a lot of tuners that have trouble with the vtec transition. Most of the custom maps I have seen have a horrible adjustment in the vtec range and have the same big stutter as the dynojet map.
I'm going to put my K&N air filter back in my bike w/ your map loaded and dyno my bike to check the a/f table. I'll post results. Might see some differences thanks to FL being about 200 feet elevation, 80 degrees and no humidity right now. But i'll let you know how it works out, Just curious how your changes to the map have effecting things.
tinyminds, Jan 1 2007, 12:03 PMI'm going to put my K&N air filter back in my bike w/ your map loaded and dyno my bike to check the a/f table. I'll post results. Might see some differences thanks to FL being about 200 feet elevation, 80 degrees and no humidity right now. But i'll let you know how it works out, Just curious how your changes to the map have effecting things.
You will proably enjoy tweaking your bike with your laptop, and the many runs you'll do after testing the multiple maps you are able to come up with... The way I see it, is that it is a toy, and a very usefull toy to those who are willing to put effort into the process of finding maps for the bike... Some maps could be for fuel economy... Others could be for peak performance. So, should all of them be contributing to Smoooth operation? YES! Having maps for the track -vs-maps for touring, obviously accents this configuration.
It really is a cool toy to have! It does what we ask of it (how we ask!).... Like anything, it is up to the operator to decide where & what happens, period! It could be too much, and/or unusefull... Or, it could be proffessionally tuned. Or, it could ALL be managed by you, the one who knows what feels right. It just takes time to configure a bike to optimum performance on your own... and this is the easiest product out there to change things (reasonably).....
Many many many trials & errors ends up with desired results. It just takes time!
No worries about hp when your tuning to feel... Which is an option available to those who decide to hook up the PC....
I sold mine. I miss mine...
Ian [/quote]
Thanks for the reply Ian. You pretty much hit the nail on the head for as far as how I feel about the PC.
I just ordered it. I also went ahead and ordered the Fuel Pressure Regulator from TurboCity and the K&N filter.
I like to tinker with things and once I learn them I'm pretty decent at keeping things on track and "fine-tuning". I imagine I'll spend plenty of time in the garage with the laptop hooked up to the PC just playing with different custom maps. Wish I had the gear to actually test the bike to see what effect it was having, but like you said, I'll mainly be tuning for how it feels when I ride.
cozye, Dec 29 2006, 08:16 AMI have staintunes and a KN. I found that the dynojet maps used too much fuel, had a flat spot around 6k, and a huge stutter at vtec. I tweaked my own map over several revisions to get the fuel mileage back closer to stock and to smooth out the flat spots. The dynojet maps did really improve the 10-12k power though. What I ended up with was a map that is richer than stock, but less rich than a dynojet map from 3k - 8k, and pretty much the same as dynojet from 8k up. Bike runs great now and I'm getting about 40-42 mpg mostly, unless I'm in 3rd gear all day then its more like 36mpg. I think there are a few people using my map that have similar results. I know if you shell out the money for a pro dyno tune, you can get a nice map. I've questioned whether its really worth it however as I don't really see a dyno perfectly mimicking all of the different variables I experience riding the bike. The dyno won't mimick me going up hill in third with half a throttle at 90mph with wind rushing by after the temp has dropped 10 degrees because I'm 3k feet above where I was 20 minutes ago. A dyno will get your A/F mix to a predermined about at a given steady throttle input standing still at one elevation on a given day for those conditions. I would make the argument that if you invest enough time in seat of the pants testing, don't do anything to extreme, and learn what running to lean feels like that you can make a better map. I don't see any dyno's in the pits at an AMA race. Sure, they may have originally tuned the bike on a dyno to get a base map, but do you really think those guys aren't messing with the fuel curve on Thursday practice based on what the rider and track times is telling them? I also think there are a lot of tuners that have trouble with the vtec transition. Most of the custom maps I have seen have a horrible adjustment in the vtec range and have the same big stutter as the dynojet map.
I can vouch for Cozye's map too...I've been running it with Remus CF cans and BMC air filter since before the VFRD Fall Dragon Ride, with near identical results...very happy with it (IMG:style_emoticons/oldemoticons/fing02.gif)
tinyminds, Jan 1 2007, 12:03 PMI'm going to put my K&N air filter back in my bike w/ your map loaded and dyno my bike to check the a/f table. I'll post results. Might see some differences thanks to FL being about 200 feet elevation, 80 degrees and no humidity right now. But i'll let you know how it works out, Just curious how your changes to the map have effecting things.
Sweet. I'd love to see it. FWIW, our elevation is about 700 feet. Map was tweaked in the summer time, humidity was a bit high at the time.
End of thread · 26 posts recoveredWayback Machine snapshot 5 Jan 2007