Built Myself A Chock

All the materials were free to me, so total cost was $0, my kind of deal.

As most can tell, I'm Mr. Frugal (made own backrest, made own luggage system, R1 RR for $20, etc.......), so when it came to wanting a chock for my lift, I knew I wasn't spending $200 bucks on one. So I got to looking at different designs and realized that they are quite simple in design and leave quite a bit of room for tolerances. So I embarked on designing my own out of some scrap steel from my work. I have built this chock to be completely adjustable, you can move the flapper gate forward for smaller tires, or back for larger tires, so anything from my dads goldwing, my buddies vtx and my precious VFR will fit in snug as a bug in a rug. Quite honestly, I have only known how to weld appropriately for a tick over a month, so my welds don't look to good, but I feel quite comfortable with their strength. My father-in-law left his MIG at my house, so needless to say, he may not be getting it back. All that is lacking at this point is my McMaster shipment with the rubber feet to keep it from sliding around on the floor. Enough with the small talk, on to the pictures.

Here is the chock, you can see the giant gusset to keep the front channel from wanting to rock forward. Also my Flapper pivots in bronze bushings, so it pivots quite smoothly.
[image: DSC03803.jpg]

Here you can see how the tire clears the gusset, and how the stiffening angles welded to the bottom channel cradle the tire.
[image: DSC03805.jpg]
[image: DSC03806.jpg]

And here is where I prove that I do in fact have trust in my quasi welding skills.
[image: DSC03808.jpg]
[image: DSC03813.jpg]
[image: DSC03816.jpg]

I'd be happy to help anyone out looking to do something similar. My only complaint is that I wish I had my pivot point somewhat lower so there wasn't such a hump to roll over, but that would also compromise the "over center" design.


UPDATE:
I just attached a .zip folder containing an AutoCAD 2000 detail and assembly drawing of the chock. It is pretty basic, as I don't have too much time tonight. But feel free to ask any questions.


A few notes about the drawing and assembly. You can certainly change the assembly process any way you want, however I'd keep the main geometry the same. All material is formed .125" flat stock unless otherwise noted. You'll see where the bottom main channel has the flanges coped off so that the web of the channel slides under the cross support channel. I probably wouldn't do this if I built it again, I was trying to get more surface area to weld, but it is plenty strong and it makes an elevation difference between the cross channel and the main channel. The two angles running parallel on the main channel should probably not be placed by my dimension, set them by the way the tire falls into them (get the chock fully assembled, then roll the bike into it, place the angles along the bottom so that both sides are touching the sides of the tire and mark, remove bike and weld them into place). You can see in the pictures that I didn't do this, and forgot to take into account the metal thickness of the flapper gate. Also if you look closely at the pictures, you will see the shaft going through the bronze bushing, to keep the bushings locked in place and she shaft pinned inside the bushings, I used a 5/8" clamping set collar on each side. This also lets you take both set collars loose and slide one bushing out of the hole and remove the flapper from the channel. On the flapper, where the gussets weld to the side with the hoop, I had to bend that portion forward some, You can see the bend in the pictures, if I had left it straight, only the bottom hoop would have contacted the tire. This however is not a calculated bend, I simply slowly bent until it fit the radius of the tire. Hopefully this makes sense to you, if not, please ask any and all questions.

Also if you need the file in something other than a .dwg, about the only thing that I can do for you is make individual .pdf's of each part, but it will be a few days before I am back at my work computer with adobe on it.

When my Mc.Master shipment comes in, I'll take a few more pictures of the bottom with the bumpers installed and such.

Great idea! Nice to see it works too!

How about some blueprints and a list of materials? warranty.gif

Edit: Is it big enough that you could back the bike into it too? Probably not, but I guess one could make a second version in a bigger size to hold the back wheel. idea3.gif

No blueprints, but I could certianly make some. It was all seat of the pants, and somethings worked and some things didn't. It took about 3 or 4 stabs at the flapper to get it right. I'll get on a B.O.M and some general drawings, but it will probably be tomorrow.

Looks sweet Chris! I'd like to have a set of the drawings when you finish them.

keith

cornercarver, Oct 29 2007, 07:50 PMLooks sweet Chris! I'd like to have a set of the drawings when you finish them.

keith

I think this calls for another VFRD donation... the money we're saving over a Condor chock... sheesh!!

No hurry Chris, the weekend is still 4 days away(that's when I'd have time to build it). goofy.gif

ps - I have the same wiggly garden sprinkler for my son, those things are fun!!

SEBSPEED, Oct 29 2007, 06:55 PMps - I have the same wiggly garden sprinkler for my son, those things are fun!!

That one is quite fun, it is for the nieces and nephews, but I think I have more fun with it. Plus it is quite the lawn sprinkler and cheaper to boot.

Looks great Chris.

I love your method, less money on tools = more money for mods. fing02.gif

OK Chris,

Now that you're through showing off, in the true VFRD spirit, how much to make a few for your close, personal friends? Maybe a break down bolt-up model for ease of shipment?

Larry
VFRrider

How about

http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/disp...temnumber=96349

but Greet before i found this buddy on mine build me 1 just like users.

See first post for attached .dwg file for the chock.

As for building one, to even break even on time and getting materials (I'm out of freebies), I'd have to charge too much. Here is a link to one in harbor freight that is built like mine but bolted together ( Harbor Freight Linky ). At $92, it seems like a steal.

Thanks for the comments guys.

Seb, on this particular one, you couldn't back the bike into it. You could make a second flapper gate that was wider and it would work, or come up with some way to make the side supports on the flapper adjustable so that you could scoot them in for the front and out for the back.

After learning to masturbate, knowing how to weld is the handiest skill a man can have. Other difference between the latter and the former is that the latter takes special equipment and a little bit of training.

Pete McCrary, Oct 30 2007, 08:28 PMAfter learning to masturbate, knowing how to weld is the handiest skill a man can have. Other difference between the latter and the former is that the latter takes special equipment and a little bit of training.

Yeah, but the former is so much more fun with some special equipment... blink.gif

goofy.gif

I got the McMaster bumpers in, and I just didn't like them. They were too small and looked cheep. So I got to thinking about the rubber dip coating for tools and such. Then I found out that you can get it in a spray can, the product is called Plasti Dip, here's the website LINKY. I have only put one coat on, and they suggest 4, so over the next few days I'll post some pictures of the process if it works. After one coat, the surface isn't soft, but it is tacky, so I think I'm on the right track.

Pete McCrary, Oct 30 2007, 08:28 PMAfter learning to masturbate, knowing how to weld is the handiest skill a man can have. Other difference between the latter and the former is that the latter takes special equipment and a little bit of training.

And we all know practice makes perfect and being the perfectionist I am I practice everyd..... oops

Chris, I got the file. Imported it to Cadkey last night and started dissecting it - thanks! fing02.gif

Neat. Nice job!

I like it! I too am addicted to welding, although i haven't done much lately because I have nothing I want to weld, and no welder.

Best rule of thumb I learned to know if your welds penetrated enough was to look at the back...if you could see the weld, but not feel it, then it probably penetrated enough to hold. Blowing through is bad usually, but with MIG it is too easy to look good but be crap. It looks like yours could have done with a bit more heat, but I don't think you have any structural concerns.

Now I just need to scrounge up some scrap and build one for myself!

Good Stuff Chris.

Awhile back I had 6 wheel chocks for sale that were custom made as well. (Same outfit that bends and cuts my brackets and fender eliminators).

THe materials aren't cheap, and the welding and bending is the critical part - as well as having a movable pivot to fit different tire sizes.

Kanadian Ken, Nov 1 2007, 02:03 PMAwhile back I had 6 wheel chocks for sale that were custom made as well.

Just out of curiosity what were you charging, I put a pencil to materials and my time to build a slight variation of this one. There is over $75 in materials and supplies involved in this monster. Plus to build this one I have about 20 hours in it, but figure that I could probably finish one every 6 hours or so (welding, cleaning and paint). So for me to sell these, I'd have to charge minimum of $150, and at that price, you can buy the harbor freight one that I listed above for $90, or stroll over to new enough and pick up the power stand for $120.

Tightwad, Nov 1 2007, 01:13 PMBest rule of thumb I learned to know if your welds penetrated enough was to look at the back...if you could see the weld, but not feel it, then it probably penetrated enough to hold. Blowing through is bad usually, but with MIG it is too easy to look good but be crap. It looks like yours could have done with a bit more heat, but I don't think you have any structural concerns.

That is how I learned too, I welded two peices together then looked at the back to see how it changed, then cut it apart to see how much penetration I got. I was getting 3/4 of the metal thickness on most welds that I cut open, so I assume the same here, the back of the metal looks similar. However where I could I welded on both sides to eleminate any concerns. I'll have to post a picture when I get home of the welds before paint. There was no more heat avaliable from my little ole mig, I had her pegged out to get these results. It is rated for materials up to .125" (1/8), which is what I used, but I do agree that alittle more heat and I'd have had better results. Only time and testing will tell if I have any structural concerns, but I'm not too worried, it is strong as an ox and as anal as I am, I'll frequently check all the welds for stress cracks.

Darth Bling, Oct 31 2007, 12:34 AM

Pete McCrary, Oct 30 2007, 08:28 PMAfter learning to masturbate, knowing how to weld is the handiest skill a man can have. Other difference between the latter and the former is that the latter takes special equipment and a little bit of training.

Yeah, but the former is so much more fun with some special equipment... blink.gif

goofy.gif

Never, ever get the two mixed up and try to use welding equipment to well, uh, you know. You will be ruined for life.

chris2992, Nov 1 2007, 01:18 PM

Tightwad, Nov 1 2007, 01:13 PMBest rule of thumb I learned to know if your welds penetrated enough was to look at the back...if you could see the weld, but not feel it, then it probably penetrated enough to hold. Blowing through is bad usually, but with MIG it is too easy to look good but be crap. It looks like yours could have done with a bit more heat, but I don't think you have any structural concerns.

That is how I learned too, I welded two peices together then looked at the back to see how it changed, then cut it apart to see how much penetration I got. I was getting 3/4 of the metal thickness on most welds that I cut open, so I assume the same here, the back of the metal looks similar. However where I could I welded on both sides to eleminate any concerns. I'll have to post a picture when I get home of the welds before paint. There was no more heat avaliable from my little ole mig, I had her pegged out to get these results. It is rated for materials up to .125" (1/8), which is what I used, but I do agree that alittle more heat and I'd have had better results. Only time and testing will tell if I have any structural concerns, but I'm not too worried, it is strong as an ox and as anal as I am, I'll frequently check all the welds for stress cracks.

Agreed...if you were driving over this it would be more critical, but as the stress is mostly on the structural part I see no issues. When I welded pipe and heavy plate we did multiple passes...what a pain in the butt. It looks like the MIG you used is a flux-core type? If you get access to a gas shielded MIG you will love it.

I was poking through the scrap barrels at work today, trying to get my hands on some of our thicker titanium, which is about .100", but them I realized I might not want this thing to be too light(I'm going to use it in the garage, not bolted down). I gonna see if we have some stainless tomorrow. fing02.gif

I'm looking forward to some steel welding, it's been a while. Mostly I'm just doing TIG butt welds on thin aluminum(.040"), so I need a change of pace every now and then!

chris2992, Nov 1 2007, 03:12 PM

Kanadian Ken, Nov 1 2007, 02:03 PMAwhile back I had 6 wheel chocks for sale that were custom made as well.

Just out of curiosity what were you charging, I put a pencil to materials and my time to build a slight variation of this one. There is over $75 in materials and supplies involved in this monster. Plus to build this one I have about 20 hours in it, but figure that I could probably finish one every 6 hours or so (welding, cleaning and paint). So for me to sell these, I'd have to charge minimum of $150, and at that price, you can buy the harbor freight one that I listed above for $90, or stroll over to new enough and pick up the power stand for $120.

I think they were $125 - which was basically my cost.

Tightwad, Nov 1 2007, 05:57 PM

chris2992, Nov 1 2007, 01:18 PM

Tightwad, Nov 1 2007, 01:13 PMBest rule of thumb I learned to know if your welds penetrated enough was to look at the back...if you could see the weld, but not feel it, then it probably penetrated enough to hold. Blowing through is bad usually, but with MIG it is too easy to look good but be crap. It looks like yours could have done with a bit more heat, but I don't think you have any structural concerns.

That is how I learned too, I welded two peices together then looked at the back to see how it changed, then cut it apart to see how much penetration I got. I was getting 3/4 of the metal thickness on most welds that I cut open, so I assume the same here, the back of the metal looks similar. However where I could I welded on both sides to eleminate any concerns. I'll have to post a picture when I get home of the welds before paint. There was no more heat avaliable from my little ole mig, I had her pegged out to get these results. It is rated for materials up to .125" (1/8), which is what I used, but I do agree that alittle more heat and I'd have had better results. Only time and testing will tell if I have any structural concerns, but I'm not too worried, it is strong as an ox and as anal as I am, I'll frequently check all the welds for stress cracks.

Agreed...if you were driving over this it would be more critical, but as the stress is mostly on the structural part I see no issues. When I welded pipe and heavy plate we did multiple passes...what a pain in the butt. It looks like the MIG you used is a flux-core type? If you get access to a gas shielded MIG you will love it.

Amen to that. Gas shielded is the only way to go. The best advice I ever received about welding is to have the same mind set as painting. Hope I'm saying this right. The parts need to be as clean as if you were going to paint them. Makes a big difference when you start welding two pieces together.

It is shielded gas, however the tank was nearly empty, and I was having a hard time getting the pressures right. Since welding that, I got a new tank and the splatter is much better. That was one thing that I did notice is that clean is very impportant, if there was any paint residue or anything else on the surface the weld sucks.

Here is a picture of the bike in the chock and tied down.
[image: DSC03818.jpg]

Here is a short video of me putting the bike into the chock, then shaking the bike, and removing from the chock.
[image: th_MOV03822.jpg]

The plasti-dip paint just rolled up on the bottom, so it isn't the answer. This is the reason that the chock slides forward when the bike falls into the chock. I have a few more ideas, but if push comes to shove, I'll just install the McMaster bumpers.

After watching some of the videos on the Blaxey website, I tried to put the bike into the chock by pushing it from the side (the way they do it in the blaxey video's) and it rolls in much easier. And since there isn't as much effort going in, the chock has much less force tring to slide it forward. I have re-done the Plasti dip paint, and am letting it dry, hopefully tonight I'll get to see if it works for sure. I did a few trial runs with the paint that had pealed up and it worked great, now I just have to figure out how to keep the stuff from rolling.