Vtec Replace Front Pads And Bleed

I have the manual and a new set of EBC HH pads to go in the front of my 2002 VTEC, and 250 ml of brake fluid.

Any tips tricks regarding bleeding the front brakes, other than just following the manual?

Thanks

All done   :fing02:

[image: View Post]flashthebiker, on Aug 3 2008, 02:01 AM, said:

All done   :mellow:

I'm about to do mine, so I'll reverse the question... any tips n tricks you learned?

[image: View Post]codeMonkey, on Aug 11 2008, 02:53 PM, said:

I'm about to do mine, so I'll reverse the question... any tips n tricks you learned?
Mine isn't ABS so I don't know if that changes things. I also see yours is a bit newer than mine so the calipers may not need a full rebuild. I did the front only so I didn't bleed the PCV. Did the rears using the same method about 6 months ago.

I removed the calipers, dismantled them, cleaned the pistons and seals, including putting rubber grease on the seals. I used a toothbrush and brake cleaner to clean all the parts.

When installing the new pads I chamferred the leading edge of the pads, lightly rubbed the face on the concrete floor of the garage, and then cleaned them with brake cleaner. This helps with the pad bedding in and I haven't have any problems with noisy brakes. The noise comes from the pad "bouncing" off the disk rather than mating flat on it - new pads sometimes have little ridges and bumps where the friction material isn't quite smooth and the edges have burrs and ridges on them. I actually chamferred all edges a little bit just to tidy up any rough bits. Cleaned the disks with brake cleaner also.

For the slider pins I sprayed some WD40 on some wet and dry paper and spun the pins inside the paper until they were smooth. Some advocate to lube the pins but I find that just attracts all kinds of crud so I just keep em smooth and the pads slide nice and easy.

As mine is an 02 model with an unknown history I replaced the bleed nipples also - the old ones were a bit burred from using ill-fitting spanners.

As for bleeding I use the full manual method - a tube on the bleed nipple down to a jar with some fluid in it. This takes two people and some patience. I found the RHS bled with gravity - opened the nipple and it ran through without pumping the lever. On the LHS I pumped through about 2 - 3 reserviors full to ensure I got new fluid into the lines and caliper. Make sure the reservior doesn't empty or you will have to start bleeding all over.

Good luck - and I guess the best advice is take your time.   :musik20:

Ugh... made a mistake and got air in my system by letting the rear master run dry. I was using my 8 year old son as a spotter and heard the dreaded sucking noise. Wanted to hit myself with the socket wrench.   :ohmy:

I've been using the mightyvac without much luck. When bleeding the valves under the seat the 'vac is great - it olds vacuum and when i open the valve i can clearly see the fluid and tiny bubbles. This was very easy. On the front calipers however I can't get the vacuum to hold at all. I pump and pump to about 20, and it falls very rapidly. I'm trying to only open the nipple 1/4 turn, but the 'vac is sucking in huge air bubbles. I believe that this is happening past the threads of the nipples. I'm going to try to replace them... do you think that will help?

I was able to get the fluid changed out of the front master / calipers without any problems. The lever is firm and it seems great. I didn't let any air into this system though, so it wasn't so bad. I did end up having to pump the lever though because of the same air leaking problem using the mighty vac. Does anyone have any insight into what i might be doing wrong, or if the bleed nipples need to be replaced? I was scouring the web and found one person using a sealant called Hylomar on the threads. Anyone tried that?

I've read that some people wipe a blob of grease (vaseline) around the base of the bleed nipple to prevent air getting sucked through the threads.

you can also add teflon tape to the nipple threads to help seal them.

[image: View Post]flashthebiker, on Aug 11 2008, 04:25 AM, said:

The noise comes from the pad "bouncing" off the disk rather than mating flat on it - new pads sometimes have little ridges and bumps where the friction material isn't quite smooth and the edges have burrs and ridges on them. I actually chamferred all edges a little bit just to tidy up any rough bits. Cleaned the disks with brake cleaner also.


As for bleeding I use the full manual method - a tube on the bleed nipple down to a jar with some fluid in it. This takes two people and some patience. I found the RHS bled with gravity - opened the nipple and it ran through without pumping the lever. On the LHS I pumped through about 2 - 3 reserviors full to ensure I got new fluid into the lines and caliper. Make sure the reservior doesn't empty or you will have to start bleeding all over.
Sorry I didn't see this thread earlier.

I thought brake squeal came from the back of the pads vibrating against the pistons?  Hence, the anti-squeal lube you put on the back of the pads.  

Anyway, I bleed mine the same way...the tube into a jar method and I just follow the steps outlined in the manual.

[image: View Post]tyrroneous, on Aug 19 2008, 10:01 PM, said:

[
I thought brake squeal came from the back of the pads vibrating against the pistons?  Hence, the anti-squeal lube you put on the back of the pads.
you are correct.   :fing02:   I think the reason that new pads vibrate on the pistons is that they don't mate with the disk, which was what I was, not very eloquently, trying to say.