Fork Oil Fish Oil

I hear people say stock oem fork oil , is fish oil and poor quality.

I happen to know better than that, the real reason for the fish oil view, is people go too long on that first oil change, which will destroy oil with braekin debri. No oil is going to hold up on that first change , OEM oil gets blamed, just because its the oil in there.

First oil change on 06 vfr was done at 6,000 mile, the red honda oil was compeltely black trashed and looked like it was going to sludge soon.

At 15,000 miles, the Honda red oil was replaced again with Honda red oil, the oil was in far far better condition than that first time.

So now here I am right near 50,000 mile and I havent changed that oil since 15,000 miles.

some said it would be complte sludge, but it was still Red , just starting to Blacken.

So the Red Honda oil aint so bad, its just that first change to get through.

Huh? is there a procedure for changing the fork oil without taking the forks out? I have 18.5k miles on the original fork oil, no issues for me.

[image: View Post]tpierce(MP), on Oct 7 2008, 08:58 AM, said:

Huh? is there a procedure for changing the fork oil without taking the forks out? I have 18.5k miles on the original fork oil, no issues for me.

Fork oil changes are shown on the scheduled maintenance list in your manual. Lack of symptoms is no reason not to follow the maintenance list. Sludging fork oil forms solids that increase internal fork tube pressures, which blows out fork oil seals (then symptoms are apparent). Ideally, you should change your fork oil at around 5K, then work out a schedule like the original poster did to keep an eye on the interval. I use 10K or 2 years, and check/clean/lube the steering head bearings at the same time. Forks must be removed to do it right, though you can half-ass it using a suction tube to get the old stuff out, and a lot of the grunge will remain to contaminate the new oil. I rinse mine by circulating mineral spirits through them twice, dumping after each, then a rinse with ATF fluid and allow to drain (pump multiple times to get it all out with the fork tube hanging upside down).

Another aspect of fork maintenance is to check/replace the internal fork bushings, but that requires fork tube dissassembly and a special tool (which you can make). Alternatively, you could clean the forks, then take just the tubes to a mechanic for a bushing check. Bushings are a wear item and if you neglect them, you risk ruining the tube.

[image: View Post]tpierce(MP), on Oct 7 2008, 10:58 AM, said:

Huh? is there a procedure for changing the fork oil without taking the forks out? I have 18.5k miles on the original fork oil, no issues for me.

Here is a link to the how-to. I will be usung this whenever it gets too cold to ride. Good luck!
http://www.vfrdiscus...p;showarticle=9
You do have to take the forks out of the triples!
I dont have any idea as to weather or not mine has been changed so I need to get this done.

[image: View Post]unkjj, on Oct 7 2008, 04:02 PM, said:

[image: View Post]tpierce(MP), on Oct 7 2008, 10:58 AM, said:

Huh? is there a procedure for changing the fork oil without taking the forks out? I have 18.5k miles on the original fork oil, no issues for me.

Here is a link to the how-to. I will be usung this whenever it gets too cold to ride. Good luck!
http://www.vfrdiscus...p;showarticle=9
You do have to take the forks out of the triples!
I dont have any idea as to weather or not mine has been changed so I need to get this done.

That's a good set of instructions, except one thing. He had to clamp the sliders in a vice to loosen the top cap. Before you remove the fork legs, loosen your top triple clamp and leave the bottom one tight, then you can break this loose without damaging the sliders and it will save time also.

also, that's not a great way of measuring oil level. That stick takes up a lot of volume and your level will be way low. Best to get a fork oil level tool. Way easier to use also. Here's one for only $20. http://www.rockymoun...dFamilyId=10975

[image: View Post]spud786, on Oct 6 2008, 07:49 PM, said:

I hear people say stock oem fork oil , is fish oil and poor quality.

Negative... oem fork oil is basically hydraulic fluid and not fish oil... mercy they haven't used that stinky stuff
since the 60's...

[image: View Post]asphault, on Oct 7 2008, 04:14 PM, said:

That's a good set of instructions, except one thing. He had to clamp the sliders in a vice to loosen the top cap. Before you remove the fork legs, loosen your top triple clamp and leave the bottom one tight, then you can break this loose without damaging the sliders and it will save time also.

:+1: :idea3:

[image: View Post]asphault, on Oct 7 2008, 03:14 PM, said:

[image: View Post]unkjj, on Oct 7 2008, 04:02 PM, said:

[image: View Post]tpierce(MP), on Oct 7 2008, 10:58 AM, said:

Huh? is there a procedure for changing the fork oil without taking the forks out? I have 18.5k miles on the original fork oil, no issues for me.

Here is a link to the how-to. I will be usung this whenever it gets too cold to ride. Good luck!
http://www.vfrdiscus...p;showarticle=9
You do have to take the forks out of the triples!
I dont have any idea as to weather or not mine has been changed so I need to get this done.

That's a good set of instructions, except one thing. He had to clamp the sliders in a vice to loosen the top cap. Before you remove the fork legs, loosen your top triple clamp and leave the bottom one tight, then you can break this loose without damaging the sliders and it will save time also.

I had planed on doing that as it seems much easier, and logical.