Maintenence Intervals

I cant find my manual. My bike is a White 06 10k miles, I bought it new in 06.. I have changed oil and filter after break in and each march since. Thats been it for my maintenance. Dealer said I should have brake and clutch fluid changes done. Wanna get it ready for this season so besides oil/filter should I get brake and clutch done? anything else manual says needs done? Its been bulletproof so far and I dont mind paying for needed things but I hate giving my money up to dealer for maint. that I dont really need any thoughts?

Get your MOM from the downloads area:
http://www.vfrdiscus...amp;showfile=44

OR, you dealer should be able to print the schedule as well.

It's probably a good idea to change all the fluids (hydraulics and cooling system) every 2 years or 16K miles, whichever comes first. I think that's what the schedule in the owners manual boils down to.

[image: View Post]Whitevfr, on Mar 5 2009, 10:01 AM, said:

I cant find my manual. My bike is a White 06 10k miles, I bought it new in 06.. I have changed oil and filter after break in and each march since. Thats been it for my maintenance. Dealer said I should have brake and clutch fluid changes done. Wanna get it ready for this season so besides oil/filter should I get brake and clutch done? anything else manual says needs done? Its been bulletproof so far and I dont mind paying for needed things but I hate giving my money up to dealer for maint. that I dont really need any thoughts?

Did fluid changes on my 05 last summer, amazed at how dark they were, brakes were a bit tighter after the flush as well. imho, well worth it, will keep the crud out of your system. btw: color of fluids in the sight glasses is very misleading.

Thanks for manual DL. I called my Honda dealer to get a price for all this and he asked how many miles I had on it. I told him 10k. He said that I didnt need to do anything till 12k service. I asked about 12k or 2years (its been 3 years) he just went back to the mileage and told me to check the color, long as it looked good just wait till 12k. Now Im confused I have a Honda Mechanic telling me not to worry about it for 2k more. I guess time doesnt matter?

Probably knows you'll crap when you find out how much they want to do the maintainance and figures that you'll wait another 2000 miles when you find out. I'm not the best when it comes to changing hydraulic fluids, hasn't been done on my '99, but will do it when I put on the SS lines.

I do all my own maintainance so my bikes never see the inside of the dealer's shop.

He quoted me $270.00 for 12k service which includes replacing clutch and brake fluids, plugs etc. I may just pick up a Service manual and try it. Im not mechanicly inclined by any means but if I can find a good manual that shows easy step by step I should be just fine.

I've replaced brake fluid before and it isn't too bad if you're careful. Just remember brake fluid can damage plastic and paint. The way I've done it in the past was to remove the cover from the reservoir, empty the fluid and use a rag to soak up the little bit you can't get out, fill the reservoir with new fluid and bleed the brakes until you see new fluid coming out. Since you've not introduced any air in the system it will go smoothly. Okay, it should go smoothly, mine did. :)

It really is pretty easy, just be very careful around your paint and plastic, and watch for leaks when you replace the reservoir cap.

[image: View Post]Whitevfr, on Mar 6 2009, 03:03 PM, said:

He quoted me $270.00 for 12k service which includes replacing clutch and brake fluids, plugs etc. I may just pick up a Service manual and try it. Im not mechanicly inclined by any means but if I can find a good manual that shows easy step by step I should be just fine.

The 12K service doesn't require new plugs. That's an expensive item right there (both the plugs themselves, and the labor) and is totally unnecessary.

+1 on getting a manual and doing it yourself. It's not that hard, and you know it's done right.

http://www.vfrdiscussion.com/forum/uploads/1186194209/gallery_2925_321_77326.jpg
vfr service schedule.jpg


I could post copies of what my dealer charged for the actual services, with part numbers, but that generally causes an uproar. . .. :blink:

http://www.vfrdiscussion.com/forum/public/style_images/light/snapback.png' alt='View Post' />sportrider, on Mar 6 2009, 06:51 PM, said:

vfr service schedule.jpg


I could post copies of what my dealer charged for the actual services, with part numbers, but that generally causes an uproar. . .. :blink:

If you read carefully, it says "inspect" [I] every 16K and "replace" [R] every 32K. Which is pretty silly, because if you've gone to all the trouble of removing the plug to "inspect" it, you might as well "replace" it then and there.

Me, I'll wait until 32K, then I'll replace. They're iridium plugs -- they should last a long time, I would think.

[image: View Post]Whitevfr, on Mar 5 2009, 12:01 PM, said:

I cant find my manual. My bike is a White 06 10k miles, I bought it new in 06.. I have changed oil and filter after break in and each march since. Thats been it for my maintenance. Dealer said I should have brake and clutch fluid changes done. Wanna get it ready for this season so besides oil/filter should I get brake and clutch done? anything else manual says needs done? Its been bulletproof so far and I dont mind paying for needed things but I hate giving my money up to dealer for maint. that I dont really need any thoughts?

Might as well do the fork oil , my Oil was completely black trashed at 6,000 mile and beginning to sludge. But I'm a speeder and hard braker and rountinally ride very rough road.

Some guys have done it in the teens and the oil not too bad.

But your seals and bushings prefer clean oil

I'd stay with SS8 honda oil unless you know what your buying, one companies 10 weight can be like another companies 5 weight

I posted about this last week in the maintenance section. I've done my coolant and clutch and will do my breaks this weekend now that I've located a mityvac. It's pretty easy actually.

I don't feel up to doing the complex brake fluid flush, how much time do honest dealers use to do this job?

Regards,
Bruckner

Where are you located?? You might be able to find a member to give you a hand. Once you've seen it done, you'd be able to do it yourself I'm sure :fing02:

You'd be more than welcome in my garage...I'd change it for you, I love doing maintanance :beer: It's what I bought all the tools for :fing02:

This is what I do, and it'd probably work on one of them vtecs too :)

every 5-6k km: oil + filter
every 12 months or 12k km: Fork oil
every 2 years or 24k km: brake & clutch fluid, coolant
every 36k km: new plugs

[image: View Post]Luvmyvfr, on Mar 7 2009, 05:38 AM, said:

Where are you located?? You might be able to find a member to give you a hand. Once you've seen it done, you'd be able to do it yourself I'm sure :fing02:

You'd be more than welcome in my garage...I'd change it for you, I love doing maintanance :beer: It's what I bought all the tools for :fing02:

Thanks for the very kind offer, but I'm in Montreal! I will look around for experienced DIY guys in the area, although there aren't many Quebecer VFRers browsing this forums.. will ask the local owner's club.

Yes fork oil replacement, I'm overdue for this one..

Regards,
Bruckner

I picked up my'98 this past fall with 16k miles. I have changed the oil, but not the brake and clutch fluid. I can't get a hold of the PO to see if he took care of that recently but the fluid in the resovoir looks very light. Is that any indication, or does the fluid in the resovoir tend to stay "new" looking just because it is not in the lines?

Probably a stupid question and I should just change them to be sure, but thought I'd ask.

Thanks

-Kevin

[image: View Post]Hootch, on Mar 7 2009, 12:10 PM, said:

I picked up my'98 this past fall with 16k miles. I have changed the oil, but not the brake and clutch fluid. I can't get a hold of the PO to see if he took care of that recently but the fluid in the resovoir looks very light. Is that any indication, or does the fluid in the resovoir tend to stay "new" looking just because it is not in the lines?

Probably a stupid question and I should just change them to be sure, but thought I'd ask.

Thanks

-Kevin
My brake fluid also looks light so I wouldn't count on that to mean that it has been changed. Mine is the original in my '99. I'm going to change it pretty soon, but really don't worry about it too much. When was the last time you changed brake fluid in your car? Your car's brakes are more likely to be subjected to abuse since you most likely drive it in all kinds of weather, while the bike tends to not be ridden so much when the weather is bad. And I've got 125,000 miles on my car brake fluid and it still works fine.

IMO it's a good idea to flush the fluid to get rid of the water that may have accumulated, but unless you're doing track days or are a very, very aggressive braker then changing brake fluid is fairly low on my list.

Just my $.02.

HispanicSlammer posted a great article comparing the DOT3/4/5/5.1 and tips on when it should be replaced.

The arcticle went deep into not really an interval but what to look for when the fluid soaks up moisture.

I am pretty religious on following sparkplug, oil, and any filter maintenance interval.

But when it comes to brake fluid and coolant I usually leave it alone for awhile. I just flushed and rebled my clutch/brakes because the fluid was black. I also replaced the brake pads and inspected the calipers they all looked good so I just reassembled. Coolant I usually let it go till it stops protecting at -20 below 0 or so since I live here in my northern part of the midwest or until it starts looking nasty. I never had any issues with it yet with either cars nor bikes. 9 times out of 10 the fluid breaks down and stops protecting to -20 and I just flush it and replace it which is not difficult really. Bleeding brakes on my 750 is easy because they aren't linked but with the EBCHH and the bleed if feels like a new bike.

This isn't meant to be a hijack but just kind of going with this thread...

I borrowed a mityvac and attempted a fluid replacement on my brakes today by following the owner's manual and it didn't quite go as I had hoped. Despite bleeding until I didn't see bubbles coming out somehow I think I still have a few bubbles in the front and I chickened out before getting to the back because I wasn't jiving with the mityvac.

That whole procedure described in the owners manual seems like a recipe for introducing air into the system. Also, is it really necessary to use a vacuum device on the linked system? Does anyone do it without one?

For now, I'm trying the rubber band around my front lever trick in hopes the bubbles will rise to the top. Jeez what a dork. I thought I could do better.

I really would avoid the mity vac, just drain the resoviors and install fresh fluid. Pump the lever, hold and release the bleeder. Rinse and repeat

Its the manual way and works well

[image: View Post]spud786, on Mar 7 2009, 07:49 PM, said:

I really would avoid the mity vac, just drain the resoviors and install fresh fluid. Pump the lever, hold and release the bleeder. Rinse and repeat

Its the manual way and works well

I'm going to try the back tomorrow. It needs to warm up in my garage though. It's below normal temps here. :mad:

Is it possible to cause sponginess in the front lever if you accidentally get air in through the rear reservoir? I'll review how the proportional valve works but I think I might have accidentally did that today because the manual tells you to vacuum out all the lines and then fill with fluid and bleed. So the rear reservoir was completely empty when I was bleeding the front brakes.

I'm guessing the second time will go smoother.

Not possible for air in the rear lines to affect the operation of the front brake lever. Sounds like you have air in the front lines. I've used the Mityvac before and it can be a bit tricky. It's hard to bleed the lines with the Mityvac unless you seal the threads on the bleed screws. What you're going through is why I never empty the lines when I'm flushing the system.

id start by bleeding the left front caliper center piston, the rear brake lever is used for this. To get to the center piston on the rear caliper, you have to remove the caliper, and then place on a different area of the rotor, to get at the bleed valve.

All I do on the proportional is a quick bleed to ensure no air bubble ,and do it as the last thing, its the 10mm bleed valve, press real hard on the brake pedal (takes much force), it will work, just do it once should be sufficient ,if fluid comes out well. Dont over Fk with that. :biggrin:

Sounds like you got some air in the system, just stick to the manual way and should be fine.

Hopefully the rubber band over night does the trick on the air bubbles , but you have to redo everything you done as far as bleeding

[image: View Post]XLR8, on Mar 7 2009, 10:07 PM, said:

the manual tells you to vacuum out all the lines and then fill with fluid and bleed. So the rear reservoir was completely empty when I was bleeding the front brakes.

1) you DO NOT want to empty the lines. you want to move fresh fluid through the lines by keeping the reservoirs full while you pump the lever or pull with the mytevac. the manual is a little confusing. in some places they're talking about what to do if you completely disassemble the brake system. in other places they're talking about flushing the lines with fresh fluid.

2) There's no way the rear reservoir would empty if you're bleeding the front brakes. are you sure it had fluid in there to begin with?

[image: View Post]checksix, on Mar 8 2009, 07:22 AM, said:

[image: View Post]XLR8, on Mar 7 2009, 10:07 PM, said:

the manual tells you to vacuum out all the lines and then fill with fluid and bleed. So the rear reservoir was completely empty when I was bleeding the front brakes.

1) you DO NOT want to empty the lines. you want to move fresh fluid through the lines by keeping the reservoirs full while you pump the lever or pull with the mytevac. the manual is a little confusing. in some places they're talking about what to do if you completely disassemble the brake system. in other places they're talking about flushing the lines with fresh fluid.

2) There's no way the rear reservoir would empty if you're bleeding the front brakes. are you sure it had fluid in there to begin with?

Yeah, I knew from what I had read that when I was vacuuming out the lines that I should not completely drain the reservoir but that's what the manual said so that's what I did. What the manual should say is to vacuume/drain, add new fluid...repeat until new the new fluid comes out the bleeder valve.

Anyway, the rear reservoir was empty because that's what the manual says to do. I should have just followed HispanicSlammer's write up from the how-to area.

I have a love/hate relationship with my service manual. Sometimes it's very precise and detailed while at other times it's vague and misleading. I take the listed service intervals with a grain of salt. It's a good idea to follow them, but they aren't the maximum intervals. You can get more life out of most components and fluids than it says.

Again, I wouldn't purposefully delay replacing brake fluids, etc, but if you're overdue by 1-2k I wouldn't worry too much about it. Just don't let it go too long. And unless there's something wrong or you're doing some other service anyway, don't replace fluids early unless you have to. That's just wasting time and money IMO.

[image: View Post]Whitevfr, on Mar 6 2009, 04:03 PM, said:

He quoted me $270.00 for 12k service which includes replacing clutch and brake fluids, plugs etc. I may just pick up a Service manual and try it. Im not mechanicly inclined by any means but if I can find a good manual that shows easy step by step I should be just fine.

http://www.vfrdiscus...p...&showfile=9
Link to service manual

Wow, Thanks Carter1.

Once you have the manual make sure you check the How-To section as well. I always compare the 2 and then usually end up following the How-To because they are close enough and takes the guess work out of the Manual-Of-Misleading-Maintenance. And it usually saves time and aggravation as well. ;)