Had new tires mounted and when I got the bike back the front brake is really touchy, and the brakes start to grab good, before the brake light will even come on. So now if I use just the back brake the bike wants to nose dive hard. Is there anything that might have been done wrong on the installers part. When he was putting the front tire on, he used a screw driver to push the brake pads back and out of the way of the rotor. Could he have damaged the brake pad? Has anyone experienced this problem. He also scratched the rear rim. Never go to the "Motorcycle tire store" in OKlahoma city, Ok.
Brake Problem Maybe
8 posts Started 26 Mar 2009 Last recovered post 26 Mar 2009 Wayback Machine snapshot 12 Apr 2010
Understand the Rim thing - the Local Stealership scratched Mine up, too! It was Pristine, and I even took it off the bike myself and walked it into the place. I couldn't F'g Believe it...!!!
Needless to say, there was a Lot of talking that went on, and about 45 mins later they agreed to send it out and get Powder coated. So, off I went & put it back on. Every Time I Looked at it for a while I could feel my blood Boil.
Then I got Sick, and essentially couldn't ride, except it Rare instances. That was like 18mos ago now, and I'm finally back on top of it. As for the Rim, passage of Time has made me less sensitive to it. I've thought about it from time to time, but Now it's Time to Ride. Then I've thought about possibly getting something Custom done.
Moral - be aware of this Stupid possibility (on the part of the Tire idiots), and be Sure to point it out to Them Beforehand to Be F'g CAREFUL. Maybe you'll get lucky... I didn't, either.
As for the Brakes, recall that this is a Linked System, so that each control (front handle or rear pedal) has some effect on Each brake. If I'm not mistaken, the Rear pedal also puts pressure on the Front Middle piston on the Left Caliper (NO Effect on the Right Front Caliper), and the Front Handle also puts pressure on the Rear Center Caliper Piston. Hence, the "Linked" system.
In your explanation, you mentioned Nothing about the Tech checking the Master Cylinders, Front (on the Right handle bar) or Rear (right side, under the Seat). Is it possible that, when he "retracted" the Calipers to make room for the new pads, that he didn't account for the flow of fluid back into to Master, and there is too much fluid, hence too much Pressure, and Real Touchy Brakes...? I would look into this, perhaps?
There could be Air in the system, too, but that would usually mean a "mushy" response, I think, Not the one that you suggest. I forgot to look & see if yours was ABS, which is even More of a potential issue for things needing to be Checked.
My suggestion - if you think these guys are Capable, then your scratched-wheel issue gives you more than enough "leverage" with them. If you're still too leery or still too Pissed, then find another Dealer, if possible. Either way, I'd get it in for a go-over Real quick, unless you have a good friend who's a Capable Mechanic with the Right tools. This isn't something to Mess with, or wait on, IMO.
See what some others think. Maybe someone has some other thoughts. Good Luck. :dry:
Needless to say, there was a Lot of talking that went on, and about 45 mins later they agreed to send it out and get Powder coated. So, off I went & put it back on. Every Time I Looked at it for a while I could feel my blood Boil.
Then I got Sick, and essentially couldn't ride, except it Rare instances. That was like 18mos ago now, and I'm finally back on top of it. As for the Rim, passage of Time has made me less sensitive to it. I've thought about it from time to time, but Now it's Time to Ride. Then I've thought about possibly getting something Custom done.
Moral - be aware of this Stupid possibility (on the part of the Tire idiots), and be Sure to point it out to Them Beforehand to Be F'g CAREFUL. Maybe you'll get lucky... I didn't, either.
As for the Brakes, recall that this is a Linked System, so that each control (front handle or rear pedal) has some effect on Each brake. If I'm not mistaken, the Rear pedal also puts pressure on the Front Middle piston on the Left Caliper (NO Effect on the Right Front Caliper), and the Front Handle also puts pressure on the Rear Center Caliper Piston. Hence, the "Linked" system.
In your explanation, you mentioned Nothing about the Tech checking the Master Cylinders, Front (on the Right handle bar) or Rear (right side, under the Seat). Is it possible that, when he "retracted" the Calipers to make room for the new pads, that he didn't account for the flow of fluid back into to Master, and there is too much fluid, hence too much Pressure, and Real Touchy Brakes...? I would look into this, perhaps?
There could be Air in the system, too, but that would usually mean a "mushy" response, I think, Not the one that you suggest. I forgot to look & see if yours was ABS, which is even More of a potential issue for things needing to be Checked.
My suggestion - if you think these guys are Capable, then your scratched-wheel issue gives you more than enough "leverage" with them. If you're still too leery or still too Pissed, then find another Dealer, if possible. Either way, I'd get it in for a go-over Real quick, unless you have a good friend who's a Capable Mechanic with the Right tools. This isn't something to Mess with, or wait on, IMO.
See what some others think. Maybe someone has some other thoughts. Good Luck. :dry:
I would put my bike up on the center stand and find someone to sit on the rear seat....the front end will come off the ground( bike will not tip, no worries) and give the wheel a spin. It should spin freely to some degree. Mine will go around several times, others in perfect working condition will only go around once or twice. But you are looking to see if your wheel is dragging. If it is, then they did something wrong...the brake pad probably isn't seated correctly...although I don't know how they could do that, I suppose it could happen. :goofy:
Was everything "normal" before your tire change?
Was everything "normal" before your tire change?
They may have misaligned the front axle. The shop manual gives a detailed procedure for installing the axle. The pinch bolts must be tightned is a specified order, with the front end "bounced" in between. You can check the manual online here at vfrd, but if I remember correctly:
- axle nut
- right pinch bolt
- bounce front wheel a few times with brakes applied
- left pinch bolt
You'll need a torque wrench.
Or write it all down and take it back to the bike shop and stand over the mechanic while he does it.
- axle nut
- right pinch bolt
- bounce front wheel a few times with brakes applied
- left pinch bolt
You'll need a torque wrench.
Or write it all down and take it back to the bike shop and stand over the mechanic while he does it.
If your front wheel doesn't spin when the bike is on the center stand, the installer probably pushed the pistons in to get the brake pads off and the new ones on. He didn't clean them before doing so and the new pads are considerably thicker than the worn pads.
This means the pistons are further in the housing and the dirty part (which was formerly exposed to the elements) is pushed in beyond the seals.
This may be causing the pistons to hang up and not retract which would cause drag and instant grab when the brake is applied.
This means the pistons are further in the housing and the dirty part (which was formerly exposed to the elements) is pushed in beyond the seals.
This may be causing the pistons to hang up and not retract which would cause drag and instant grab when the brake is applied.
[image: View Post]checksix, on Mar 26 2009, 07:49 AM, said:
They may have misaligned the front axle. The shop manual gives a detailed procedure for installing the axle. The pinch bolts must be tightned is a specified order, with the front end "bounced" in between. You can check the manual online here at vfrd, but if I remember correctly:- axle nut
- right pinch bolt
- bounce front wheel a few times with brakes applied
- left pinch bolt
You'll need a torque wrench.
Or write it all down and take it back to the bike shop and stand over the mechanic while he does it.
Wow, I didn't know there was an actual procedure for it! :laugh:
I would check for debris between the pads and the rotors. The workshop manual also specifies clearance between the rotors and the caliper brackets, can't remember the value, a misaligned caliper could cause the problem.
Did they change the pads as well as the tires?
My local shop always cleans the rotors when changing tires, this always results in a better "bite" although your symptoms sound considerably worse.
Regards,
Bruckner
Did they change the pads as well as the tires?
My local shop always cleans the rotors when changing tires, this always results in a better "bite" although your symptoms sound considerably worse.
Regards,
Bruckner
[image: View Post]Bruckner, on Mar 26 2009, 10:16 AM, said:
I would check for debris between the pads and the rotors. The workshop manual also specifies clearance between the rotors and the caliper brackets, can't remember the value, a misaligned caliper could cause the problem.Did they change the pads as well as the tires?
My local shop always cleans the rotors when changing tires, this always results in a better "bite" although your symptoms sound considerably worse.
Regards,
Bruckner
they did not change brake pads.
End of thread · 8 posts recovered Wayback Machine snapshot 12 Apr 2010