How I Installed Kanadian Ken's Solo Rack

http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3454/3400222456_f97b86643a.jpg


I got my Solo Rack mounted today. I have a trunk on order... but it is hard to beat a milk crate for utility (and unique style).

I was not keen on mounting the rack directly in contact with the plastic of the handles. It is my opinion that, over time, the metal of the rack would "mush" and deform the plastic and everything could loosen up due to the slack this would create. I also wasn't keen on the idea of swapping bolts every time I wanted to remove the solo rack (longer bolts for shorter and vice versa).

So I decided to make a "hard point" for mounting the rack. I did this by turning 4 bushings out of aluminum. They are 21mm in diameter and ~18mm in length. The inside is threaded 8 X 1.25. (I used stainless threaded inserts for long life) (BLUE piece below)

I installed 8 X 1.25 X 45mm long setscrews (RED piece below) into the bottom half of the bushing using red Loctite 262 with primer. After this has cured, install them in place of the original bolt used on the grab handles. Use a Allen Key to engage the top of the captured setscrew and tighten it up very firmly. A touch of Loctite 222MS will ensure that this "Hard Point" will not back out as you install and remove the Solo Rack.

Now I have a hard, threaded mounting point for Ken's Solo Rack. I can install and remove the rack still with just 4 bolts (PINK and GREEN pieces below) , but I don't have to swap bolts and the grab handles stay put.

http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3628/3400911287_75a8aed31c.jpg

http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3660/3399414087_daa6da8670.jpg


http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3615/3400627830_3137be419d.jpg

Nicely done.

And who says VFR owners aren't a little anal??















Kool solution !

That is very slick - well done!!

[image: View Post]Kanadian Ken, on Mar 30 2009, 07:18 PM, said:

That is very slick - well done!!

Great product, Ken.

:blush: Excellent touch to a superb product.
I've been accused of being OCD about my '97. I had to correct them; "It's 'CDO'". (alphabetized, of course)

Anodized?

Slicker than cat s@!t, on a linoleum floor.

[image: View Post]redrocket800, on Mar 30 2009, 07:17 PM, said:

And who says VFR owners aren't a little anal??

I wish. O.K. maybe just a touch. But I have more nail polish on the panels than my wife has on her fingers.

[image: View Post]Rivcyko, on Mar 30 2009, 08:26 PM, said:

Anodized?

I don't have access to that kind of equipment, and I am basically a cheap bastard. They would look better in black though.

I'll take four bolt/inserts. Please. Name your price.
A very cool solution!

Job well done Lee! :fing02:

I just finished mine but I mounted the rack without the grab handles. Ken certainly did a good job on the rack.

[image: View Post]solohvs, on Mar 30 2009, 09:45 PM, said:

I'll take four bolt/inserts. Please. Name your price.

Sorry, no can do.

All the info you need is here though.

Great idea!!! I'd like to do the same thing as I like to swap between a hard Givi topcase and a Luggage Locker tail bag. Maybe someone else can mass produce some of these, or know where it can be outsourced for a decent price?

Just curious though...any thoughts if there is an effect on load capacity using a two piece bolt design over a single bolt?

very well done! Makes me wish I had a lathe for sure.

Hey, Lee - nice, Nice, NICE...!!! Can't wait 'til my Rack comes in to take a closer look. I was planning to try and mount mine without the Grab handles also. Do you know any mod's that would need to be made on your design off-hand?

I'm imagining that someone, prob'ly even Ken, will come up with a "kit" for this. For me, I'll have to go to a friend of mine that has a machine shop to get the inserts made.

If you guys think it would be worthwhile, let me know. I'll pose the question for more quantity & see what he says...

Again, Great Job, Lee :+1:

One thing, though - seems like that Red on your Honda Top Crate is off. Maybe you should go with the Black ;p

Thanks again! :wheel:

[image: View Post]NVR2L8, on Mar 30 2009, 10:26 PM, said:

Just curious though...any thoughts if there is an effect on load capacity using a two piece bolt design over a single bolt?


For the Top-Side (Mounting Ken's Solo Rack):

There is a very small tension load on the front bolt and the rear bolt experiences a small shear force and nil tension in static. When accelerating and braking, these forces would be reversed, but still small for the bolt sizes used.

Vibration and load cycles would eventually kill the aluminum threads. That is why I went with a stainless insert. But your great grandson would be riding the bike before this becomes a concern.

For the Bottom-Side (Mounting the "Hard Points" and grab handlesto the Motorcycle):

Still using the same size bolt (set screw) as OEM. Now, instead of a formed head, there is a Loctited aluminum bushing. It is engaged to the set screw by threads. This would undergo forces in tension and shear depending on what your passenger is doing in the back. But, again, this is the same sized bolt as OEM.

I was lifting the back end of the motorcycle both via the grab handles and via Ken's Solo Rack... It is plenty stout enough.

Nice job Lee! :fing02:

I would prefer to make it one piece myself, but I'm sure that what you've done will work fine for a long time.

[image: View Post]SEBSPEED, on Mar 31 2009, 05:43 AM, said:

I would prefer to make it one piece myself, but I'm sure that what you've done will work fine for a long time.

That would have been the best way. I would have liked to have done it out of stainless in one piece. But that is a lot of single-pointing threads... I don't have that kind of time on my hands.

This is the best combination of economy/strength.

Agreed.

If only I could sell this darn F4i... I could get myself a Smithy 3-in-1...

[image: View Post]SEBSPEED, on Mar 31 2009, 05:53 AM, said:

I could get myself a Smithy 3-in-1...


Now THAT would take a long time... but it would be cool to have in the garage.




The "World Turns on Colchester Lathes"

Looks like a great setup. :fing02:

Lee, did you think about a small spring pin/dowel or set screw to hold the set screw in place, as opposed to just the Loctite? You could still accomplish using one with a v block and a drill press, and would positively lock the setscrew in place.

[image: View Post]SEBSPEED, on Mar 31 2009, 07:08 AM, said:

Lee, did you think about a small spring pin/dowel or set screw to hold the set screw in place, as opposed to just the Loctite? You could still accomplish using one with a v block and a drill press, and would positively lock the setscrew in place.

No, honestly I did not. I can understand your thought process. In my experience, as long as there is no heat involved, that set screw isn't going anywhere.... ever. Seriously, ever.

I spend a lot of time cussing Loctite just because of that fact. The damned Swiss (and sometimes the Germans) who build the stuff I work on use the crap like it is going out of style sometimes. Henkel is a German company, after all.

A pin through a bolt, even up inside it's fitting is a weak point for stresses to congregate and it will crack there given enough time and torque. Then the set screw would be able to back out. That just doesn't happen with Loctite.

That is my experience anyway.

[image: View Post]MakMan, on Mar 31 2009, 01:00 AM, said:

Do you know any mod's that would need to be made on your design off-hand?

You would need to cut some holes through your pop-in grab handle covers. You would need to use a shorter set screw (15mm or so) and a longer bushing. (Just a guess ~54mm. Measure for yourself to be sure) EDIT: That measurement is wrong... I forgot to take into account the thickness of the Grab Handles. Subtract the thickness from ~54. Better measure yourself.

[image: View Post]MakMan, on Mar 31 2009, 01:00 AM, said:

One thing, though - seems like that Red on your Honda Top Crate is off. Maybe you should go with the Black ;p

I will never fall to the dark side. That is the side of miscreants, hoodlums and photographers. I had to dig around in my garage for quite a while to find the red crate... for some reason, I had a lot of blue.

You should hear the crap I am catching at work with that thing mounted..... I'm lovin' it.

Lee's method is pretty good but not wanting to go through all the work he did I am going to try the following:

McMaster Carr: Spacers & Standoffs

Select Male-Female Threaded Hex. Then select M8 for the male and female threads and you get the two part numbers below. How are the pitch counts different on each end for both? How do I figure out what I need? Pardon my ignorance I just don't understand how they are different pitches on the male and female ends (and then the other part is the opposite).

http://www.mcmaster.com/param/images/stacers/malefem.gif

92499A622
18-8 Stainless Steel Male-Female Thrd Adapter M8 X 1.0 Male End, M8 X 1.25 Female End
In stock at $11.59 Each

92499A640
18-8 Stainless Steel Male-Female Thrd Adapter M8 X 1.25 Male End, M8 X 1.0 Female End
In stock at $11.38 Each

I installed the original version of the Kanadian Ken mount. Lower profile, but I had to fabricate them myself (local machine shop did the work) Like everyone else, I didn't want to mark up my grab handles.

Here is my solution they are already mass produced and easier than building them yourself. Go to your local Harley Dealer and buy yourself four of the following spacers. A bit expensive, but they are readily available, chromed and work well, I have been using these since day1 and there has been zero marks on my grab handles. The original install was March, 2006. I took a spacer and one of the original mounting bolts to my local "nut and bolt" store (not a hardware store, rather a business catering to industrial fasteners) and bought 4 bolts that accommodated the extra length required to clear the spacers.

http://www.vfrdiscussion.com/forum/uploads/1241467790/gallery_5686_867_29625.jpg
Spacers

http://www.vfrdiscussion.com/forum/uploads/1241467790/gallery_5686_1088_70369.jpg
Spacers - Side View

http://www.vfrdiscussion.com/forum/uploads/1241467790/gallery_5686_1088_57950.jpg
Box Mounted


There are few extra shots in my albums, including Ken's original drawings and installation process I used, for anyone interested. The only downside of the original design is that the box and mounting hardware has to be removed to take off the seat. I don't mind because I prefer the lower profile.

http://www.vfrdiscussion.com/forum/public/style_images/light/snapback.png' alt='View Post' />pronomad, on May 6 2009, 09:13 AM, said:

92499A640
18-8 Stainless Steel Male-Female Thrd Adapter M8 X 1.25 Male End, M8 X 1.0 Female End
In stock at $11.38 Each


The OEM bolt is 8 X 1.25. So you will need the Male thread to have that pitch.

Check the diameter of the HEX, it will need to be less than 22mm.

http://www.vfrdiscussion.com/forum/public/style_images/light/snapback.png' alt='View Post' />Cdn Arctic, on May 6 2009, 10:19 AM, said:

Many people have already done bushings. Your HD suggestion is a great option for those who don't have access to a lathe. I am happy that bushings fit your needs.

But, it was my intention from the get-go to avoid any loose hardware. I did not want to swap bolts (short for long) and I did not want to have to keep track of bushings while Ken's Rack was not mounted. Thus, my hard point solution.

http://www.vfrdiscussion.com/forum/public/style_images/light/snapback.png' alt='View Post' />Lee 2002, on May 6 2009, 07:00 PM, said:

[image: View Post]Cdn Arctic, on May 6 2009, 10:19 AM, said:

Many people have already done bushings. Your HD suggestion is a great option for those who don't have access to a lathe. I am happy that bushings fit your needs.

But, it was my intention from the get-go to avoid any loose hardware. I did not want to swap bolts (short for long) and I did not want to have to keep track of bushings while Ken's Rack was not mounted. Thus, my hard point solution.


No bolts to swap, just take off the mount and top box, leave the spacers where they are and install the bolts to hold the spacers and the grab handle. Sure you have to use longer bolts, but you never go back to the shorter ones and as long as they are holding down both the spacers and the grab handle, nothing goes missing, except maybe the mounting rack and the top box.

[image: View Post]Lee 2002, on May 6 2009, 08:00 PM, said:

But, it was my intention from the get-go to avoid any loose hardware.

At the time the change-over is made you still have to keep track of the bushings. I am happy bushings work for you. They were not an acceptable solution for me.

http://www.vfrdiscussion.com/forum/public/style_images/light/snapback.png' alt='View Post' />Lee 2002, on May 6 2009, 08:56 PM, said:

[image: View Post]pronomad, on May 6 2009, 09:13 AM, said:

92499A640
18-8 Stainless Steel Male-Female Thrd Adapter M8 X 1.25 Male End, M8 X 1.0 Female End
In stock at $11.38 Each


The OEM bolt is 8 X 1.25. So you will need the Male thread to have that pitch.

Check the diameter of the HEX, it will need to be less than 22mm.

The hex would be a 14mm wrench size. My elementary geometry skills tells me the OD would be ~16.2mm so that should work.

The entire spec of the spacer is below (sorry for the format). Strange that the female thread pitch would different, no? Eh, either way there's a enough engagement to hold the solo rack on reliably.

Quote

http://www.mcmaster.com/param/images/stacers/malefemthread.gif

Part Number: 92499A640
$11.38 Each

Type: Male-Female Threaded Hex

Male-Female Threaded Hex Type: Reducing

Material Type: Stainless Steel

Finish: Plain

Stainless Steel Type: 18-8 Stainless Steel

Body Length: 19.05 mm

Body Length Tolerance: �.005"

Hex Width: 14 mm

Hex Width Tolerance: �.002"

Male Screw Size: M8

Male Metric Thread Pitch: 1.25 mm

Female Screw Size: M8

Female Metric Thread Pitch: 1 mm

Threading: Partially Threaded

Male Thread Length (B): 12.7 mm

Female Thread Length (C ): 11.09 mm

Rockwell Hardness: Minimum B83

Tensile Strength: 85,000 psi

Thread Fit: Class 6g External; Class 6H Internal

Specifications Met: American Society for Testing and Materials (ASTM)

ASTM Specification: ASTM 581

Quote

http://www.mcmaster.com/param/images/stacers/malefemthread.gif

Part Number: 92499A640
$11.38 Each

Type: Male-Female Threaded Hex
Male-Female Threaded Hex Type: Reducing
Material Type: Stainless Steel
Finish: Plain
Stainless Steel Type: 18-8 Stainless Steel
Body Length: 19.05 mm
Body Length Tolerance: �.005"
Hex Width: 14 mm
Hex Width Tolerance: �.002"
Male Screw Size: M8
Male Metric Thread Pitch: 1.25 mm
Female Screw Size: M8
Female Metric Thread Pitch: 1 mm
Threading: Partially Threaded
Male Thread Length (B): 12.7 mm
Female Thread Length (C ): 11.09 mm
Rockwell Hardness: Minimum B83
Tensile Strength: 85,000 psi
Thread Fit: Class 6g External; Class 6H Internal
Specifications Met: American Society for Testing and Materials (ASTM)
ASTM Specification: ASTM 581

Shit. I just realized 12.7 mm of thread is not going to be anywhere close to enough to pass through the grab handle and secure to the bike. MF.