VFRDiscussion ARCHIVE / READ-ONLYREAD-ONLY

Chain And Sprockets

44 posts Started 20 May 2009 Last recovered post 12 Jun 2009 Wayback Machine snapshot 10 Apr 2010

#1
So I am rapidly aproaching 15K, and the "window" on my chainguard is getting close to the end of the line on my last adjustment. First off, is this an accurate gauge? Secondly, what do you guys run for a chain and sprockets? I looked quickly on ebay, and the combo seemed to be in the $200 ballpark. Oem was around $300. This seems like a boatload of money for such simple items.
Also wondering if I should drop a tooth on the front sprocket while I'm at it - anyone have any feedback on this change?
#2
have a look here, mention VFRD and you may get a discount!

Cant help with tooth drops though.

Sprocket Center
#3

[image: View Post]AB-Oz, on May 19 2009, 09:38 PM, said:

have a look here, mention VFRD and you may get a discount!
Cant help with tooth drops though.
Sprocket Center

:+1: on what he said.... :wheel: :warranty:

Quote

Supersprox/D.I.D. 15/45 'Madmax' combo
http://i143.photobucket.com/albums/r124/VEEFER/DSCF1321.jpg

Greg :fing02:
#4
It is a pretty accurate gauge. You can also measure a section of chain.

The grease inside the O rings doesn't normally last much past 15K miles or so, and they begin to wear.

A 15t front sprocket will change the gearing and make the bike feel faster, just be aware that it will cause your odometer to be off, and your speedometer to be very off. A speedo healer can fix this.
#5
I just ordered a set after chatting via email with Chad at the sprocket center, and if you mention VFRD and your id in the message when ordering you'll get 5% discount :)
#6
My bike had been fitted with a DID Gold Link chain about 2000kms before I bought it. I clean it and lube it religiously and, last week, I had to adjust it for the first time since I bought the bike. I bought the bike in September '08 and I've done 22000kms since then. The moral? Buy a top quality chain. It will cost you more but you'll not be sorry you did.
#7
Stock "honda" sprockets and a DID x-ring chain when i replaced mine 2 years ago.
#8
RK chain & sprocket kit from Motorcycle Pro Shop in Sacramento is $141 (best price around). I've gotten 21K & 22K miles with this RK combination and just received a new kit today, as I'm at that 21K and needing a chain. I've used DID and EK, but for me, this is the best deal for the money.
#9

[image: View Post]rc36Honda, on May 21 2009, 12:59 AM, said:

My bike had been fitted with a DID Gold Link chain about 2000kms before I bought it. I clean it and lube it religiously and, last week, I had to adjust it for the first time since I bought the bike. I bought the bike in September '08 and I've done 22000kms since then. The moral? Buy a top quality chain. It will cost you more but you'll not be sorry you did.


I went 12,000 miles before needing to adjust my OEM chain. And I wasn't too religious on the lubing. And who knows how many miles were on it beforehand! OEM is not bad at all, just expensive for what it is.
--Ryan
#10
I'm on my 3rd chain on the oem sprockets, 96k km.
#11
My shop recommended the Red chain. I think it's faster.
No idea who makes it. :laugh:
#12
So far I am having good luck with my bargain ($100) chain and sprockets from ebay. I haven't even had to adjust it yet after 2000+ miles.
#13

[image: View Post]sparkydog21, on May 21 2009, 01:42 AM, said:

RK chain & sprocket kit from Motorcycle Pro Shop in Sacramento is $141 (best price around). I've gotten 21K & 22K miles with this RK combination and just received a new kit today, as I'm at that 21K and needing a chain. I've used DID and EK, but for me, this is the best deal for the money.

Wow, that's a good deal. I'm going to have to remember that next time.
#14

[image: View Post]Badazzteacher, on May 21 2009, 11:25 PM, said:

So far I am having good luck with my bargain ($100) chain and sprockets from ebay. I haven't even had to adjust it yet after 2000+ miles.
Wouldn't expect to. I usually use a DID XRing chain and some aftermarket sprockets and generally don't have to adjust the chain until about 14,000 miles, then it needs to be adjusted often as the pins wear out. The chain shouldn't change in length until the grease under the O rings deteriorates and the chain starts to wear out where the side plates and pins meet.
#15
How do chain/sprockets fail if not changed? Chain snap? Break a sprocket/tooth?

Regards,
Bruckner
#16

[image: View Post]Bruckner, on May 22 2009, 09:51 AM, said:

How do chain/sprockets fail if not changed? Chain snap? Break a sprocket/tooth?

Regards,
Bruckner

According to Murphy's Law, except a broken chain. If it happens, if you're lucky the chain fall down on the road , if you're not it wraps around the sprocket ... :ohmy:
#17
Who sales "neat" ( I live in the 50/60's) looking sprocks? ......... Monk
#18
I just picked up my gear from the P. Off. from the sprocket centre.

Bloody marvelous for an around the world purchase and journey, 5 days door to door....
#19

[image: View Post]Bruckner, on May 22 2009, 10:51 AM, said:

How do chain/sprockets fail if not changed? Chain snap? Break a sprocket/tooth?

Well, eventually the chain will break. But before that, the bike will ride like crap as the o-rings begin to fail. The o-rings won't all fail at the same time, so you'll get a situation where some links are stretched and others are not, and they have varying degrees of stiffness. This will cause a pulsing feel as the chain loosens and tightens with every revolution. The bike will not ride very smoothly, the shifting will get rough, and it will make a "hngh hngh hngh" sound which will serve as constant reminder that the chain could break at any moment. Which will not give you a warm fuzzy feeling.
#20
Warning sounds good....... Monk
#21

[image: View Post]Monk, on May 22 2009, 11:17 AM, said:

Who sales "neat" ( I live in the 50/60's) looking sprocks? ......... Monk
:blink: :blink:
#22

[image: View Post]slowf2337, on May 26 2009, 02:29 AM, said:

[image: View Post]Monk, on May 22 2009, 11:17 AM, said:

Who sales "neat" ( I live in the 50/60's) looking sprocks? ......... Monk
:blink: :blink:



Can you go down 1 tooth in the front and still use the stock chain??
#23
if you can, try and get a black one. they look a lot better, imo.


BEFORE:
http://i250.photobucket.com/albums/gg262/redrider826/DSCN0264.jpg


AFTER:
http://i250.photobucket.com/albums/gg262/redrider826/DSCN0415.jpg

http://i250.photobucket.com/albums/gg262/redrider826/DSCN0417.jpg
#24

[image: View Post]Buttonhook, on May 27 2009, 08:29 PM, said:

[image: View Post]slowf2337, on May 26 2009, 02:29 AM, said:

[image: View Post]Monk, on May 22 2009, 11:17 AM, said:

Who sales "neat" ( I live in the 50/60's) looking sprocks? ......... Monk
:blink: :blink:
Can you go down 1 tooth in the front and still use the stock chain??
Stock 6th gen chain is 110 links.
I know if you go -1 and up 2 on the back, (net increase of one), the 110 will still work.
However...... -1 on the front (net decrease of one), stock will be too long or at the end of adjustment.
You would have to remove 2 links off the stock chain (108) since you can only add or subtract two at a time.
Greg :fing02:
#25

[image: View Post]elizilla, on May 25 2009, 09:18 PM, said:

[image: View Post]Bruckner, on May 22 2009, 10:51 AM, said:

How do chain/sprockets fail if not changed? Chain snap? Break a sprocket/tooth?

Well, eventually the chain will break. But before that, the bike will ride like crap as the o-rings begin to fail. The o-rings won't all fail at the same time, so you'll get a situation where some links are stretched and others are not, and they have varying degrees of stiffness. This will cause a pulsing feel as the chain loosens and tightens with every revolution. The bike will not ride very smoothly, the shifting will get rough, and it will make a "hngh hngh hngh" sound which will serve as constant reminder that the chain could break at any moment. Which will not give you a warm fuzzy feeling.

Thanks, I wanted to know whether there was advanced warning signs. I've had the chain/sprockets for over 15K miles (DID high end stuff), everything feels and looks as good as new, only recently for the first time did I tighten the chain, which is a sign that sooner than later I'll have to change the set. The sprockets also look fine, although the gauge sticker on the swingarm was taken out long ago, hard to tell if it's within spec. I'll have that checked by the dealer when I get my brakes bled.

Regards,
Bruckner
#26

[image: View Post]EmeraldVFR, on May 28 2009, 02:29 PM, said:

if you can, try and get a black one. they look a lot better, imo.AFTER:
http://i250.photobucket.com/albums/gg262/redrider826/DSCN0415.jpg

Now that's what I'm talking about.......... That's a "Neat" looking sprocket....... Monk
#27

[image: View Post]AB-Oz, on May 21 2009, 06:02 PM, said:

I'm on my 3rd chain on the oem sprockets, 96k km.


:+1:

There's virtually no chance that your OEM sprockets are in need of replacement at 15k. Just replace the chain.
#28

[image: View Post]Bruckner, on May 28 2009, 05:02 PM, said:

[image: View Post]elizilla, on May 25 2009, 09:18 PM, said:

[image: View Post]Bruckner, on May 22 2009, 10:51 AM, said:

How do chain/sprockets fail if not changed? Chain snap? Break a sprocket/tooth?

Well, eventually the chain will break. But before that, the bike will ride like crap as the o-rings begin to fail. The o-rings won't all fail at the same time, so you'll get a situation where some links are stretched and others are not, and they have varying degrees of stiffness. This will cause a pulsing feel as the chain loosens and tightens with every revolution. The bike will not ride very smoothly, the shifting will get rough, and it will make a "hngh hngh hngh" sound which will serve as constant reminder that the chain could break at any moment. Which will not give you a warm fuzzy feeling.

Thanks, I wanted to know whether there was advanced warning signs. I've had the chain/sprockets for over 15K miles (DID high end stuff), everything feels and looks as good as new, only recently for the first time did I tighten the chain, which is a sign that sooner than later I'll have to change the set. The sprockets also look fine, although the gauge sticker on the swingarm was taken out long ago, hard to tell if it's within spec. I'll have that checked by the dealer when I get my brakes bled.

Regards,
Bruckner

The sticker doesnt have much to do with sprocket wear, but running an over stretched chain does not aid sprocket life, Because the chain does not fit the teeth well, it will start riding high on the sprocket teeth and wear them quicker.

The countershaft sprocket will be the quickest wearing sprocket, in comparison to a steel rear(aluminum rears wear 10x faster than steel). Steel rears are nearly indestructable if you are able to quelch metal to metal contact.

As you saw in my pic previous, normally I have to replace cs sprocket much earlier as a result of wear, I went 4 times my normal interval and that sprocket was still in good shape, could have ran it another 10,000 mile. But the difference is quelching that metal to metal contact.

Chain deterioration? as soon as the lithium grease inside the chain oxidises, rust will begin internally, eventually it blows the rust out past the orings(red dust). Any links in this condition will begin to rust and lock up or kink, this will cause vibration as the chain moves along the path. Sometimes you have to sit down and go through each link on inspection.
#29
I just bought (Feb, 09) an '03 with 14k miles. It's creeping up on 15k. The prev owner was religious about cleaning and lubing the chain every 500mi. and slack seems to be well in spec and not showing as worn.

So, does this need to be replaced?
#30
RK 530XSO Series Chain & Sprocket Kit - HONDA VFR A11XSOVFR Retail Price: $189.95 Our Price: $167.95 Our sprocket kits with RK 530 XSO series X'ring sealed chain are a good inexpensive way to replace your drivetrain. All parts are made to OEM specs and the average life on each kit is 15 to 20k miles. The chain is avaiable in Standard Gray or Gold finishes.

RK Pro Chain Breaker and Rivet Tool Kit UCT4060 Retail Price: $119.95 Our Price: $109.95

Just changed mine about a month ago.

Used Sprocket Center http://www.sprocketc...-honda-vfr.html

First time I ever done it. Took about 2 hours figuring everything out.
#31

[image: View Post]Veefer Madness, on May 19 2009, 07:40 PM, said:

Quote

Supersprox/D.I.D. 15/45 'Madmax' combo

This combo includes brake pads? I couldn't find it on sprocketcenter.com? Please more info, this could be precisely the set of parts I need.

Regards,
Bruckner
#32

[image: View Post]Bruckner, on May 29 2009, 12:42 AM, said:

[image: View Post]Veefer Madness, on May 19 2009, 07:40 PM, said:

Quote

Supersprox/D.I.D. 15/45 'Madmax' combo
This combo includes brake pads? I couldn't find it on sprocketcenter.com? Please more info, this could be precisely the set of parts I need.
Regards,
Bruckner
The bag contains a DID chain breaker. The pads are EBC and the PJ1 chainlube were extra. I thought I'd build up my order to be shipped all together......
The chainlube is AWESOME!!! :fing02: :fing02:
The pads were a thank you for setting up the Group buy last year.
That's why, when thinking of buying something like Pazzos, tires, seats/anything etc. it never hurts to ask if the vendor is interested in offering a deal on quantity purchases for the members. Especially these days.
Usually one would post up an 'any interest' note, and the vendor will take it up from there!
Greg :fing02:
#33

[image: View Post]Veefer Madness, on May 28 2009, 06:54 PM, said:

[image: View Post]Buttonhook, on May 27 2009, 08:29 PM, said:

[image: View Post]slowf2337, on May 26 2009, 02:29 AM, said:

[image: View Post]Monk, on May 22 2009, 11:17 AM, said:

Who sales "neat" ( I live in the 50/60's) looking sprocks? ......... Monk
:blink: :blink:
Can you go down 1 tooth in the front and still use the stock chain??
Stock 6th gen chain is 110 links.
I know if you go -1 and up 2 on the back, (net increase of one), the 110 will still work.
However...... -1 on the front (net decrease of one), stock will be too long or at the end of adjustment.
You would have to remove 2 links off the stock chain (108) since you can only add or subtract two at a time.
Greg :fing02:
so _1 in the front +1 in the rear ='s stock chain correct???
#34

Quote

so _1 in the front +1 in the rear ='s stock chain correct???
That's a big tin fur, good buddie!!! :musik20:
Greg :beer: :fing02:
http://www.vfrdiscussion.com/forum/uploads/1197512921/gallery_8015_3519_19729.jpg
AND YOUR SOUL TOO!!!

http://www.vfrdiscussion.com/forum/uploads/1207156112/gallery_8015_3238_26579.jpg
#35

[image: View Post]Veefer Madness, on May 29 2009, 02:57 PM, said:

Quote

so _1 in the front +1 in the rear ='s stock chain correct???
That's a big tin fur, good buddie!!! :musik20:
Greg :beer: :fing02:
http://www.vfrdiscussion.com/forum/uploads/1197512921/gallery_8015_3519_19729.jpg
AND YOUR SOUL TOO!!!

http://www.vfrdiscussion.com/forum/uploads/1207156112/gallery_8015_3238_26579.jpg

thank you!!!!!!! I just ordered a 15t front and a 44 tooth rear so that is -1 +1 correct?
#36

http://www.vfrdiscussion.com/forum/public/style_images/light/snapback.png' alt='View Post' />Veefer Madness, on May 29 2009, 11:57 AM, said:



Yes I've been wondering about this golden rear sprocket, it doesn't look like a 6th gen VFR unit, if it is I'd love to see what it looks like on the bike.

Regards,
Bruckner
#37

http://www.vfrdiscussion.com/forum/public/style_images/light/snapback.png' alt='View Post' />Bruckner, on May 29 2009, 08:27 PM, said:

[image: View Post]Veefer Madness, on May 29 2009, 11:57 AM, said:



Yes I've been wondering about this golden rear sprocket, it doesn't look like a 6th gen VFR unit, if it is I'd love to see what it looks like on the bike.

Regards,
Bruckner

Looks like it's missing a bolt hole 5?..... should be 6......... Monk
#38

http://www.vfrdiscussion.com/forum/public/style_images/light/snapback.png' alt='View Post' />Monk, on May 29 2009, 09:15 PM, said:

[image: View Post]Bruckner, on May 29 2009, 08:27 PM, said:

[image: View Post]Veefer Madness, on May 29 2009, 11:57 AM, said:


Yes I've been wondering about this golden rear sprocket, it doesn't look like a 6th gen VFR unit, if it is I'd love to see what it looks like on the bike.
Regards,
Bruckner
Looks like it's missing a bolt hole 5?..... should be 6......... Monk
Correctemundo. (Not exactly as illustrated...)
http://i143.photobucket.com/albums/r124/VEEFER/Talk%20Time/DSCF1515.jpg
http://i143.photobucket.com/albums/r124/VEEFER/Talk%20Time/DSCF1381.jpg
As far as the gold on the bike, this is the best pic I have...... (Ya, I changed it when it became available,so shoot me)
http://i143.photobucket.com/albums/r124/VEEFER/Talk%20Time/DSCF1672.jpghttp://i143.photobucket.com/albums/r124/VEEFER/Talk%20Time/DSCF1672-1-2.jpghttp://i143.photobucket.com/albums/r124/VEEFER/Talk%20Time/DSCF1672-1-1.jpg Greg :fing02:
#39

[image: View Post]floydzboyz, on May 28 2009, 09:49 PM, said:

I just bought (Feb, 09) an '03 with 14k miles. It's creeping up on 15k. The prev owner was religious about cleaning and lubing the chain every 500mi. and slack seems to be well in spec and not showing as worn.

So, does this need to be replaced?
You only need to replace it if the chain adjustment is at the end, AND you have too much slack.
Someone correct me if I'm wrong (please!)

:+1: on what spud786 said about chains (post 28)
#40

http://www.vfrdiscussion.com/forum/public/style_images/light/snapback.png' alt='View Post' />Veefer Madness, on May 29 2009, 10:54 PM, said:

[image: View Post]Monk, on May 29 2009, 09:15 PM, said:

[image: View Post]Bruckner, on May 29 2009, 08:27 PM, said:

[image: View Post]Veefer Madness, on May 29 2009, 11:57 AM, said:


Yes I've been wondering about this golden rear sprocket, it doesn't look like a 6th gen VFR unit, if it is I'd love to see what it looks like on the bike.
Regards,
Bruckner
Looks like it's missing a bolt hole 5?..... should be 6......... Monk
Correctemundo. (Not exactly as illustrated...)
http://i143.photobucket.com/albums/r124/VEEFER/Talk%20Time/DSCF1515.jpg
http://i143.photobucket.com/albums/r124/VEEFER/Talk%20Time/DSCF1381.jpg
As far as the gold on the bike, this is the best pic I have...... (Ya, I changed it when it became available,so shoot me)
http://i143.photobucket.com/albums/r124/VEEFER/Talk%20Time/DSCF1672.jpghttp://i143.photobucket.com/albums/r124/VEEFER/Talk%20Time/DSCF1672-1-2.jpghttp://i143.photobucket.com/albums/r124/VEEFER/Talk%20Time/DSCF1672-1-1.jpg Greg :fing02:
Im kind of a noob but arent those washers supposed to be in between the sprocket and hub not between the nut and sprocket? I need a service manual. :blush:
#41
I think what you're seeing is that the nut has a lip on the bottom of it....... like a flange and a 'no back off' at the top of the nut thread.
As for a manual, I think you can search for one on the site.
Greg :fing02:
#42
just got done with the -1 front +1 rear....WOW!!! It pulled the front tire in first and second with out any problems. Kind of surprsed me... :blink: anyone know what % of correction I need to dial in for the speedohealer?
#43

[image: View Post]Buttonhook, on Jun 3 2009, 08:17 PM, said:

just got done with the -1 front +1 rear....WOW!!! It pulled the front tire in first and second with out any problems. Kind of surprsed me... :blink: anyone know what % of correction I need to dial in for the speedohealer?
The -1 +1 is what I am looking at doing..... Did the standard chain length work for you button.....Will you post if you figure out what correction is needed?
#44
Go D.I.D VM or higher. I have had better luck with D.I.D vs RK. Do not go cheap on sprockets or chain. I did go cheep once and what a pain, I was adjusting my chain all the time and the sprockets wear out faster, they wore out in 4000 miles. So cost per mile it is worth going with the good stuff.
Go here!!! * http://www.didchain.com/ *

http://www.vfrdiscussion.com/forum/uploads/1241467790/gallery_8868_4449_435308.jpg
Install 078.JPG

Stephen
End of thread · 44 posts recovered Wayback Machine snapshot 10 Apr 2010