Twitchy Throttle ...

I am lovin my new bike however it has a seriousily twitchy throttle that is driving me nuts. In 1st and 2nd gear at low RPMs sometimes when you give a slight twist to the throttle the bike snaps forward and other times with light steady throttle, stop and go traffic, the bike lurches and I spend a ton of energy feathering the clutch. Is this something that might be resolved through a new PC map ? I am learry about messing with the current setup as it was apparently dyno tuned for the bike, however as a newer rider who is trying to talk his wife into coming out for a spin I need to smooth that throttle response out !

Any suggestions ?

How do i even figure out what map is already installed on the PC ?

[image: View Post]VFRCanuck, on Jul 26 2009, 02:24 PM, said:

I al lovin my new bike however it has a seriousily twitchy throttle that is driving me nuts. In 1st and 2nd gear at low RPMs sometimes when you give a slight twist to the throttle the bike snaps forward and other times with light steady throttle, stop and go traffic, the bike lurches and I spend a ton of energy feathering the clutch. Is this something that might be resolved through a new PC map ? I am learry about messing with the current setup as it was apparently dyno tuned for the bike, however as a newer rider who is trying to talk his wife into coming out for a spin I need to smooth that throttle response out !

Any suggestions ?

How do i even figure out what map is already installed on the PC ?
It won't hurt to do some research on what you might want to change, and to hear what these other folks have to say about it.
IMO.... I'd ride it a lot longer first, till you get used to it. Then see if you want to change anything..... Just saying, it was like that with me at first...... The only thing I did was take the right amount of slack out of the throttle.

So, no pc III software? I know it is a new bike to you, I haven't followed too close,......Sorry. Do you have the actual O2 elims? Do the resistor mod. More reliable. Then,....... Get the software. Load and save the current map. Load Cozy's.

$$$ on your elims., are hosing you. They have been known to poop out.

you just have to learn really good throttle control.fuel injection tends to be very on and off.and a vfr is even worse.

IMO one of the biggest issues on these bikes is improper throttle tube play! They usually have too much play and as you feed throttle you end up moving move than should be needed and it helps cause that snap feel. Adjust play to minimal and test ride, should help it out.
All FI bikes will usually be a little snappier that older carb'ed bikes IMO also. :blush:

[image: View Post]Monk, on Jul 26 2009, 11:32 AM, said:

It won't hurt to do some research on what you might want to change, and to hear what these other folks have to say about it.
IMO.... I'd ride it a lot longer first, till you get used to it. Then see if you want to change anything..... Just saying, it was like that with me at first...... The only thing I did was take the right amount of slack out of the throttle.

True Monk, I was just frustrated in traffic yesterday and I can already hear my wifes voice in my head if I shake her around like that on our inagural ride in the next couple weeks.

[image: View Post]Rivcyko, on Jul 26 2009, 12:17 PM, said:

So, no pc III software? I know it is a new bike to you, I haven't followed too close,......Sorry. Do you have the actual O2 elims? Do the resistor mod. More reliable. Then,....... Get the software. Load and save the current map. Load Cozy's.

$ on your elims., are hosing you. They have been known to poop out.

My bike came with a PCIII already installed so I have no idea whats in it, there are also 02 elims installed. I even got the dyno sheet from the setup which was done about 4 years ago. i will read up on the PCIII and have to figure out how to get a cable to use as that is one of the things the bike didnt come with. Hopefully I can download the software in the bike now, then upload Coyze's and try it with the ability to revert to the original software if needed.

So how do I "test" an 02 elim ?

If I am getting lots of "pops" from the exhaust on deceleration is that a sign of running rich ?

[image: View Post]ericlee, on Jul 26 2009, 12:47 PM, said:

you just have to learn really good throttle control.fuel injection tends to be very on and off.and a vfr is even worse.

I have had a friend suggest that the whole problem is LOFT ... Lack Of Fricking Tallent :biggrin: ... and that I have never driven a fuel injected bike before so I am willing to concede that I will possibly figure it out in time and with some more miles as well.

You can download the software for free from Dynojet. Just save your map before loading Cozye's and compare.

And, as for the Loft idea, don't be hard on yourself, FI requires REALLY slow throttle control, it seems ridiculous at first--especially that first engagement point, but it does help.

:+1: on the throttle slack adjustment..........
Also, Dynojet has on it's site an accessories page for what you're missing, but I would think an electronics or photography shop will have the small/large usb cable as well. My Fujifilm camera came with one to download my pics to my 'puter hard drive. :comp13:
Greg :fing02:

[image: View Post]Veefer Madness, on Jul 26 2009, 06:34 PM, said:

:+1: on the throttle slack adjustment..........
Also, Dynojet has on it's site an accessories page for what you're missing, but I would think an electronics or photography shop will have the small/large usb cable as well. My Fujifilm camera came with one to download my pics to my 'puter hard drive. :comp13:
Greg :fing02:


I agree take all of the slack out of the throttle. It really helped mine Alot

[image: View Post]Buttonhook, on Jul 26 2009, 04:28 PM, said:

[image: View Post]Veefer Madness, on Jul 26 2009, 06:34 PM, said:

:+1: on the throttle slack adjustment..........
Also, Dynojet has on it's site an accessories page for what you're missing, but I would think an electronics or photography shop will have the small/large usb cable as well. My Fujifilm camera came with one to download my pics to my 'puter hard drive. :comp13:
Greg :fing02:


I agree take all of the slack out of the throttle. It really helped mine Alot

Well.. not all out, in which case there wouldn't be enough slack in the steering, in fact it would be dangerous to tighten it up without making sure the steering can turn freely lock-to-lock.

This bike has very sensitive throttle input, you will get used to it and learn to enjoy it as it is. I find that the 10mm slack specification in the workshop manual works best.

Regards,
Bruckner

[image: View Post]Bruckner, on Jul 26 2009, 11:13 PM, said:

[image: View Post]Buttonhook, on Jul 26 2009, 04:28 PM, said:

[image: View Post]Veefer Madness, on Jul 26 2009, 06:34 PM, said:

:+1: on the throttle slack adjustment..........
Also, Dynojet has on it's site an accessories page for what you're missing, but I would think an electronics or photography shop will have the small/large usb cable as well. My Fujifilm camera came with one to download my pics to my 'puter hard drive. :comp13:
Greg :fing02:


I agree take all of the slack out of the throttle. It really helped mine Alot

Well.. not all out, in which case there wouldn't be enough slack in the steering, in fact it would be dangerous to tighten it up without making sure the steering can turn freely lock-to-lock.

This bike has very sensitive throttle input, you will get used to it and learn to enjoy it as it is. I find that the 10mm slack specification in the workshop manual works best.

Regards,
Bruckner


I thought mine said 1/16" min. 10mm is almost a 1/2" which seems like alot!!

I agree with adjusting the throttle cables. Take out almost all the free play. After adjusting, turn the handlebars lock to lock with the engine running and make sure the rpm's don't change (which would indicate the cables are too tight).

Keeping chain freeplay on the low (tight) side of the spec ( 1" ) helps too.

Is your PAIR valve still connected? DO that mod if it isn't, smoothed both of my VFR's right out.

[image: View Post]Buttonhook, on Jul 27 2009, 04:43 AM, said:

[image: View Post]Bruckner, on Jul 26 2009, 11:13 PM, said:

[image: View Post]Buttonhook, on Jul 26 2009, 04:28 PM, said:

[image: View Post]Veefer Madness, on Jul 26 2009, 06:34 PM, said:

:+1: on the throttle slack adjustment..........
Also, Dynojet has on it's site an accessories page for what you're missing, but I would think an electronics or photography shop will have the small/large usb cable as well. My Fujifilm camera came with one to download my pics to my 'puter hard drive. :comp13:
Greg :fing02:


I agree take all of the slack out of the throttle. It really helped mine Alot

Well.. not all out, in which case there wouldn't be enough slack in the steering, in fact it would be dangerous to tighten it up without making sure the steering can turn freely lock-to-lock.

This bike has very sensitive throttle input, you will get used to it and learn to enjoy it as it is. I find that the 10mm slack specification in the workshop manual works best.

Regards,
Bruckner


I thought mine said 1/16" min. 10mm is almost a 1/2" which seems like alot!!

You're correct, the specified range is 2 to 6mm (1/16" to 1/4"). My bad.

Regards,
Bruckner

For the guys mentioning PC mapping that have some experience with the things, are they actually doing anything down low? I thought I had read here on VFRD a while back that a Power Commander doesn't really do anything below ~4,000 RPM on the VFR. Is this true?

If so, I doubt it will help our new friend here out very much. If not, I'll try to not remember an incorrect "fact".

As for myself, disconnected & capped PAIR lines plus taking out nearly all play in the throttle cabling has left my VFR mostly lurch free, although every once in a while in a parking lot I still experience a good jump forward when I wasn't expecting or wanting one.

[image: View Post]pres589, on Jul 27 2009, 09:04 AM, said:

For the guys mentioning PC mapping that have some experience with the things, are they actually doing anything down low? I thought I had read here on VFRD a while back that a Power Commander doesn't really do anything below ~4,000 RPM on the VFR. Is this true?

If so, I doubt it will help our new friend here out very much. If not, I'll try to not remember an incorrect "fact".

As for myself, disconnected & capped PAIR lines plus taking out nearly all play in the throttle cabling has left my VFR mostly lurch free, although every once in a while in a parking lot I still experience a good jump forward when I wasn't expecting or wanting one.

A Power Commander adds or subtracts fuel at various throttle positions and RPMS, down to 500 RPMs.

How does one tighten the throttle cable, anyway?

[image: View Post]Ryanme17, on Jul 27 2009, 11:15 AM, said:

[image: View Post]pres589, on Jul 27 2009, 09:04 AM, said:

For the guys mentioning PC mapping that have some experience with the things, are they actually doing anything down low? I thought I had read here on VFRD a while back that a Power Commander doesn't really do anything below ~4,000 RPM on the VFR. Is this true?

If so, I doubt it will help our new friend here out very much. If not, I'll try to not remember an incorrect "fact".

As for myself, disconnected & capped PAIR lines plus taking out nearly all play in the throttle cabling has left my VFR mostly lurch free, although every once in a while in a parking lot I still experience a good jump forward when I wasn't expecting or wanting one.

A Power Commander adds or subtracts fuel at various throttle positions and RPMS, down to 500 RPMs.

How does one tighten the throttle cable, anyway?
There's an in-line adjustment on the cable-housing, just below the throttle.... The long nut adjusts, the small one locks the setting. Once you see it, you'll hit yourself on the forehead with the palm of your hand, and say of course.... at least that's what I do... :mellow:

[quote name='VFRCanuck' date='Jul 26 2009, 11:24 AM' post='633005']
I am lovin my new bike however it has a seriousily twitchy throttle that is driving me nuts. In 1st and 2nd gear at low RPMs sometimes when you give a slight twist to the throttle the bike snaps forward and other times with light steady throttle, stop and go traffic, the bike lurches and I spend a ton of energy feathering the clutch. Is this something that might be resolved through a new PC map ? I am learry about messing with the current setup as it was apparently dyno tuned for the bike, however as a newer rider who is trying to talk his wife into coming out for a spin I need to smooth that throttle response out !

Any suggestions ?



Do you wrap your entire hand around the grip? I anchor index and middle finger on the
brake lever and use thumb, palm and other fingers to twist the throttle.
Imagine your hand wrapped around the throttle, a bit of throttle, bike moves forward
(little lurch) your body tries to stay in the same place (momentum) arm gets pulled straight
hand moves back resulting in a little more throttle = more lurch cycle repeats.

ditto on the chain and throttle cable adjustments.

Adrian

i wouldn't panic with hardware and adjustment stuff just yet. when i moved from a carbed bike to the VFR i had the same issues. you'll develop a softer touch and better throttle control with experience and time on the bike. ride a lot, give it some time and the jerkiness will go away. then see if there are small tweaks or hardware additions that you need.

my 2 cents.