New Pegs Installed, Cant Adjust Brake ...

So yesterday I got my shinny new foot pegs from Randy at Visit My Website -Knight Design LLC and they look awesome, great to have a little extra leg room in there too. Hpwever when installing I cannot figure out how to get the brake lever adjusted downward ??? Anyone have an explanation or pic of what needs to be done ?

TIA

Take the pinch bolt all the way out. Should slide off the splines like butter.

[image: View Post]Rivcyko, on Aug 1 2009, 01:54 PM, said:

Take the pinch bolt all the way out. Should slide off the splines like butter.

This will work on the shifter, but not the brake.

For the brake you most loosen the nut that locks the rod coming out of the rear brake cylinder to the "U" bracket that connects the rod to the pedal. Then very carefully turn the rod using the nut up next to the dust boot. The boot going to try and turn at the same time, so be careful not to tear it. Just go slow. I threaded my down so the rod was almost touching the brake level. Once you look at it, you'll see what I mean. Then re-tighten the locknut.

Now the important part, you most readjust the brake light because now you'll find it's always on. To do this simply hold the switch, located just forward of the brake cylinder, and turn the collar that holds it in the bracket to lower it until the light once again goes on and off with the pedal.

[image: View Post]coderighter, on Aug 1 2009, 02:16 PM, said:

[image: View Post]Rivcyko, on Aug 1 2009, 01:54 PM, said:

Take the pinch bolt all the way out. Should slide off the splines like butter.

This will work on the shifter, but not the brake.

For the brake you most loosen the nut that locks the rod coming out of the rear brake cylinder to the "U" bracket that connects the rod to the pedal. Then very carefully turn the rod using the nut up next to the dust boot. The boot going to try and turn at the same time, so be careful not to tear it. Just go slow. I threaded my down so the rod was almost touching the brake level. Once you look at it, you'll see what I mean. Then re-tighten the locknut.

Now the important part, you most readjust the brake light because now you'll find it's always on. To do this simply hold the switch, located just forward of the brake cylinder, and turn the collar that holds it in the bracket to lower it until the light once again goes on and off with the pedal.


What he said. (Sorry, I was thinking shifter). What did I just post, about thinking. My Bag.

Quote

So yesterday I got my shinny new foot pegs from Randy at Visit My Website -Knight Design LLC and they look awesome, great to have a little extra leg room in there too. Hpwever when installing I cannot figure out how to get the brake lever adjusted downward ??? Anyone have an explanation or pic of what needs to be done ?

Glad you like the pegs ! If you get a chance post some pics of them.
I'm also going to be able to drop the price of the Taper pegs by $10.00 Found a shop that can make the blanks for me at a good price. That reduces my labor, so I can drop the price. My webmaster is traveling on business for the next week, so I can't get the price changed on the web page. Anyone can just email me until then and I can send an invoice for the lower price. Back to making more pegs. Tomorrow I'm riding to the Coast for the day :wheel:

[image: View Post]coderighter, on Aug 1 2009, 11:16 AM, said:

[image: View Post]Rivcyko, on Aug 1 2009, 01:54 PM, said:

Take the pinch bolt all the way out. Should slide off the splines like butter.

This will work on the shifter, but not the brake.

For the brake you most loosen the nut that locks the rod coming out of the rear brake cylinder to the "U" bracket that connects the rod to the pedal. Then very carefully turn the rod using the nut up next to the dust boot. The boot going to try and turn at the same time, so be careful not to tear it. Just go slow. I threaded my down so the rod was almost touching the brake level. Once you look at it, you'll see what I mean. Then re-tighten the locknut.

Now the important part, you most readjust the brake light because now you'll find it's always on. To do this simply hold the switch, located just forward of the brake cylinder, and turn the collar that holds it in the bracket to lower it until the light once again goes on and off with the pedal.
Ok so I need a pick to be sure we are talking about the same thing but if we are then bike came with that bolt adjusted all the way down as far as it will go, no that there is a lot of travel there.

Sorry this is the best pic I could find online :

http://i8.photobucket.com/albums/a43/Theduke_13/VFRsetsBrake.jpg

The adjustment seems to be the rod between the 2 nuts where I circled (of course I have stock rearsets),

Now the questions is whats the harm in cutting down this rod to increase the range of adjustment as it seems there is little room for adjustment. As it sits now I have to lift my foot to get a toe onto the brake lever.

[image: View Post]coderighter, on Aug 1 2009, 11:59 AM, said:

Glad you like the pegs ! If you get a chance post some pics of them.
I'm also going to be able to drop the price of the Taper pegs by $10.00 Found a shop that can make the blanks for me at a good price. That reduces my labor, so I can drop the price. My webmaster is traveling on business for the next week, so I can't get the price changed on the web page. Anyone can just email me until then and I can send an invoice for the lower price. Back to making more pegs. Tomorrow I'm riding to the Coast for the day :wheel:

Once I get all the adjustments sorted out I will take some pics for you for sure.

Here is where the adjustment points are....you can see how close I took the bolt to the brake pedal. If I needed more adjustment I would have to shave the end of the bolt:

http://i637.photobucket.com/albums/uu93/tightwad/BrakeAdjustment-1.jpg

[image: View Post]Tightwad, on Aug 1 2009, 02:25 PM, said:

Here is where the adjustment points are....you can see how close I took the bolt to the brake pedal. If I needed more adjustment I would have to shave the end of the bolt:

http://i637.photobucket.com/albums/uu93/tightwad/BrakeAdjustment-1.jpg

Yeah mine was already there and has been since I bought the bik a few weeks back so I need more adjustment. I will have to shave the bolt and find a die to keep sthe threads in tact I guess.

[image: View Post]Tightwad, on Aug 1 2009, 05:25 PM, said:

Here is where the adjustment points are....you can see how close I took the bolt to the brake pedal. If I needed more adjustment I would have to shave the end of the bolt:

http://i637.photobucket.com/albums/uu93/tightwad/BrakeAdjustment-1.jpg

That's what I'm talking about. Don't forget to adjust the brake switch!

[image: View Post]VFRCanuck, on Aug 1 2009, 05:44 PM, said:

[image: View Post]Tightwad, on Aug 1 2009, 02:25 PM, said:

Here is where the adjustment points are....you can see how close I took the bolt to the brake pedal. If I needed more adjustment I would have to shave the end of the bolt:

http://i637.photobucket.com/albums/uu93/tightwad/BrakeAdjustment-1.jpg

Yeah mine was already there and has been since I bought the bik a few weeks back so I need more adjustment. I will have to shave the bolt and find a die to keep sthe threads in tact I guess.

When you cut the bolt down leave the nut on the bolt. Once you have it cleaned up and the way you want it just turn the nut off the bolt to clean up the end of the threads. I do this all the time. It saves me having to buy alot of taps.

[image: View Post]redneck7769, on Aug 1 2009, 04:03 PM, said:

[image: View Post]VFRCanuck, on Aug 1 2009, 05:44 PM, said:

[image: View Post]Tightwad, on Aug 1 2009, 02:25 PM, said:

Here is where the adjustment points are....you can see how close I took the bolt to the brake pedal. If I needed more adjustment I would have to shave the end of the bolt:

http://i637.photobucket.com/albums/uu93/tightwad/BrakeAdjustment-1.jpg

Yeah mine was already there and has been since I bought the bik a few weeks back so I need more adjustment. I will have to shave the bolt and find a die to keep sthe threads in tact I guess.

When you cut the bolt down leave the nut on the bolt. Once you have it cleaned up and the way you want it just turn the nut off the bolt to clean up the end of the threads. I do this all the time. It saves me having to buy alot of taps.

Great idea ! I will hit it with a dremel shortly and see what I can do, any idea what the ratio of bolt cut to brake lever adjustability would be ?

[image: View Post]redneck7769, on Aug 1 2009, 07:03 PM, said:

When you cut the bolt down leave the nut on the bolt. Once you have it cleaned up and the way you want it just turn the nut off the bolt to clean up the end of the threads. I do this all the time. It saves me having to buy alot of taps.

If you do this right the only part of the threads that could get bunged up would be at the end where you make your cut. If this is the case, simply file that thread down slightly!

[image: View Post]Ryanme17, on Aug 1 2009, 06:06 PM, said:

[image: View Post]redneck7769, on Aug 1 2009, 07:03 PM, said:

When you cut the bolt down leave the nut on the bolt. Once you have it cleaned up and the way you want it just turn the nut off the bolt to clean up the end of the threads. I do this all the time. It saves me having to buy alot of taps.

If you do this right the only part of the threads that could get bunged up would be at the end where you make your cut. If this is the case, simply file that thread down slightly!

After looking at the rearset tonight with a friend we are convinced that the previous owner has bent the brake lever in toward the bike a bit and thats making the problem for fitment worse for me. So my current plan is to order a new brake lever and a new one of those bars so that I can cut one down and have a spare just in case. Its rideable as it is just not the perfect setup just yet.

And next week my helibars and my GSXR led mirrors will come in to complete the work I wanted to do on the nike this summer !

Since the adjustment available is minimal, I heated and bent the foot lever in two places to get it exactly where I wanted it. It's worked fine so far over the past six months or so, but then I rarely use the rear brake anyway.

[image: View Post]VFRCanuck, on Aug 1 2009, 08:00 PM, said:

[image: View Post]redneck7769, on Aug 1 2009, 04:03 PM, said:

[image: View Post]VFRCanuck, on Aug 1 2009, 05:44 PM, said:

[image: View Post]Tightwad, on Aug 1 2009, 02:25 PM, said:

Here is where the adjustment points are....you can see how close I took the bolt to the brake pedal. If I needed more adjustment I would have to shave the end of the bolt:

http://i637.photobucket.com/albums/uu93/tightwad/BrakeAdjustment-1.jpg

Yeah mine was already there and has been since I bought the bik a few weeks back so I need more adjustment. I will have to shave the bolt and find a die to keep sthe threads in tact I guess.

When you cut the bolt down leave the nut on the bolt. Once you have it cleaned up and the way you want it just turn the nut off the bolt to clean up the end of the threads. I do this all the time. It saves me having to buy alot of taps.

Great idea ! I will hit it with a dremel shortly and see what I can do, any idea what the ratio of bolt cut to brake lever adjustability would be ?

3-4 threads should be enough to give you the movement you need, if you still need it with the new brake lever. You can always do it in steps...take a cut, try it, then cut again.