Just a quick question really and I haven't been able to find out anywhere else...
Is it normal for the lights to dip a little under braking? You don't notice it much but on small narrow roads in the dark of night when I use the brake (or indicator) the light will dip slightly. I've done the 30amp fuse and earth mod.
When you brake, the brake lights come and and they use up some power.
Assuming you roll off the throttle before braking, the bike drops to lower RPM which reduces the overall amount of electricity it makes. It's pretty common for bikes not to make enough to even keep their batteries charged, at idle.
Braking also makes the front of the bike go down, which would make the light's centerpoint move down a bit.
I wouldn't worry about any of it, though you could play with it by squeezing the brake lever enough to turn on the brake light and not enough to actually brake, just to check it out.
If you were to shine your lights in a mirror at idle and raise the throttle , you would see a light output increase. I've not noticed while riding, but one time I did notice my light output looked bad, right low beam was burned out.
You may have your lights adjusted too low , and aggravating the issue, vfr lighting needs to be set pretty high or you wont see squat in the corners even with high beams on.
[image: View Post]vfr_steve, on Sep 6 2009, 07:19 PM, said:
Thanks for your thoughts, so it's nothing really bad to worry about?
I'm just thinking when winter gets nearer and I use my heated gerbing gear it might just be enough to send it over the edge!
One more thing .... Do you use a trickel charger on your bike?... if not I'd suggest you do, just to keep your battery fully charged.... the bike(or a car) does NOT do a full charge from running it at high rpm's........
[image: View Post]Monk, on Sep 7 2009, 02:11 AM, said:
[image: View Post]vfr_steve, on Sep 6 2009, 07:19 PM, said:
Thanks for your thoughts, so it's nothing really bad to worry about?
I'm just thinking when winter gets nearer and I use my heated gerbing gear it might just be enough to send it over the edge!
One more thing .... Do you use a trickel charger on your bike?... if not I'd suggest you do, just to keep your battery fully charged.... the bike(or a car) does NOT do a full charge from running it at high rpm's........
One thing, I have had the same battery in her now for about 20,000 miles or so and I don't think it was replaced since new in 2005 - so maybe a new battery might cure it?
Start the bike - note the voltage.
Rev the bike - note the voltage
put the headlights on - not the voltage. Typically the voltage should drop and then go up. If it does not go up -
12.8v at rest (off)
13.8v at idle
14.5v at steady 5k rpm
with headlight - it should be between 14.5 and 14.9
if anything lower you may have charging issues. battery or r/r.
PErsonally, have moved to HID - they work great, safer, cooler, and consumes less power (9v to 14v)
[image: View Post]AnikMankar, on Sep 7 2009, 11:12 AM, said:
connect a multimeter across the battery.
Start the bike - note the voltage.
Rev the bike - note the voltage
put the headlights on - not the voltage. Typically the voltage should drop and then go up. If it does not go up -
12.8v at rest (off)
13.8v at idle
14.5v at steady 5k rpm
with headlight - it should be between 14.5 and 14.9
if anything lower you may have charging issues. battery or r/r.
PErsonally, have moved to HID - they work great, safer, cooler, and consumes less power (9v to 14v)
regards
Anik
Thanks! :fing02: I'll get the dealer to have a look at it when she goes for a MOT soon.
End of thread · 10 posts recoveredWayback Machine snapshot 12 Apr 2010