I'd like to be able to actuate the rear brake only. Is there a way to unlink the front from the rear? I don't mind both brakes being linked when I am using the front brake which, is obviously when I am doing any sort of significant slowing, but there are times when I like to drag the rear brake only to change the motorcycle's attitude entering a corner or during slow maneuvers. Has anyone done this? Thanks.
Unlinking Linked Brakes?
8 posts Started 26 Sep 2009 Last recovered post 27 Sep 2009 Wayback Machine snapshot 12 Apr 2010
It's doable, but I don't see the Hassle/cost benefit ratio being positive. The linked rear still does a decent job of doing what you want IMO. :blush:
[image: View Post]swimmer, on Sep 26 2009, 01:56 PM, said:
I'd like to be able to actuate the rear brake only. Is there a way to unlink the front from the rear? I don't mind both brakes being linked when I am using the front brake which, is obviously when I am doing any sort of significant slowing, but there are times when I like to drag the rear brake only to change the motorcycle's attitude entering a corner or during slow maneuvers. Has anyone done this? Thanks.1+ on Br sure wouldnt be worth my time, the key with the rear brake is use a softer touch in comparison to delinked , to not make the front end do anything weird.
To me its never been a big issue, but some have gone whole hog and delinked
Another +1. The linked brakes work via a master cylinder which is actuated by braking torque affecting the rear cylinder, this means that the rear only actuates the front (and vice versa) under heavy braking. The system actually does an excellent job at what it does. The main reason to delink, in my opinion, is to shave a few pounds, not necessarily for better control.
[image: View Post]swimmer, on Sep 26 2009, 02:56 PM, said:
I'd like to be able to actuate the rear brake only. Is there a way to unlink the front from the rear? I don't mind both brakes being linked when I am using the front brake which, is obviously when I am doing any sort of significant slowing, but there are times when I like to drag the rear brake only to change the motorcycle's attitude entering a corner or during slow maneuvers. Has anyone done this? Thanks.I wont jump into the pro/con discussion of why or why not you shouldnt do it. I will say that I just dont like linked brakes. Maybe on a big ass ST1300 or Gold Wing I would leave 'em alone, but on my 5th gen, it only took me 4 weeks after buying the thing that I decided -- the linked brakes gotta go! To each his own.
So if you really want to delink, first of all doing a setup with the stock gear would end up being an abomination. You would end up with 4 lbs of dead weight hanging off the front forks.
The best way to go involves a total change in front forks and brakes.
The simplest is to either ebay a set of F4i forks and adapt to the stock triple trees. Possibility 2 is to buy F4i fork tube lowers and assemble with the 6th gen upper tubes. If you go that route, you may as well do the RaceTech gold valves or the Traxxion Dynamics route. Of course then you still have to buy brake calipers and master cylinder and figure the front fender and wheel work. If you wanted to go more exotic a lot of guys here have gone with RC51 forks or theres even an R1. Search Frankenviffer or Frankenforks
Then after your done screwing around with the front end, now you can rip out the excess gear for the rear. The final setup for the rear, you will end up needing a new master cylinder either 14mm or 5/8 inch diameter piston. Quite a few of Honda sportbikes use a 14mm - I bought a new RC51 part at my dealer. (The was at least for the 5th gen, I dont know if Honda changed rear caliper piston sizes on the 6th - Its a caliper piston vs master cylinder calculation). Then either setup a single line bridge between the center piston port and the rear port of the caliper or just use 2 lines from the MC to each caliper port. I used the bridge line setup - I think I have a pic in my gallery. I have heard that the 2 line setup from some guys have been a major PIA to get to bleed brake fluid.
So there you go its doable. you have to decide if all the work is worth it to you. For me, it was and still is - I like it!
Heres a link to my rework it job. Its been about 3 years ago.....
http://vfrworld.com/...rceptor-ss.html
MD
[image: View Post]Baileyrock, on Sep 26 2009, 02:59 PM, said:
. . . . . . . Hassle/cost benefit ratio . . . . . .I've got to start using that term at work. I like that.
I have some Clients that definitely fall into that category.
Donkey $hit my friend.
[image: View Post]Pete McCrary, on Sep 26 2009, 07:40 PM, said:
[image: View Post]Baileyrock, on Sep 26 2009, 02:59 PM, said:
. . . . . . . Hassle/cost benefit ratio . . . . . .I've got to start using that term at work. I like that.
I have some Clients that definitely fall into that category.
Donkey $hit my friend.
:laugh: Anytime!
btw MD he didn't say he wanted to de-link the bike, just the rear brakes. :blush:
[image: View Post]Baileyrock, on Sep 26 2009, 08:45 PM, said:
[image: View Post]Pete McCrary, on Sep 26 2009, 07:40 PM, said:
[image: View Post]Baileyrock, on Sep 26 2009, 02:59 PM, said:
. . . . . . . Hassle/cost benefit ratio . . . . . .I've got to start using that term at work. I like that.
I have some Clients that definitely fall into that category.
Donkey $hit my friend.
:laugh: Anytime!
btw MD he didn't say he wanted to de-link the bike, just the rear brakes. :blush:
Oooooooooh... keep front to rear link, but unlink rear to front....... ok.... oops.... :cool:
MD :happy:
End of thread · 8 posts recovered Wayback Machine snapshot 12 Apr 2010