Chain Issue / Adjustment

Heya gang.

There was a topic a few weeks or so ago related to Chains, Sprockets, and gearing, ect. ect. I made a comment that I already had a 45T on the rear and a new chain that was put on by someone else. I finally got around to putting on my 15T front sprocket today.

In that original thread, someone told me that I would not have to replace my chain or take a link out. I was told that all I had to do was slack the chain, put the new sprocket on, and readjust.

Well, I did that today, and I had to adjust the wheel all the way back to get the chain tight. Now it is at full adjustment backwards.

Is this bad? Do I now need to cut a link or two out of the chain and put it back together? If I do have to take links out, can I do this without removing the cover and sprocket again? I have the chain tools, just need to know if I am going to venture out and try this for the first time.

Thanks.

EDIT: When I say "Chain Tight", I mean that the chain has just the right slack per the owners manual at max. SO basically, at the min and max allowable slack, my chain is at the max allowable now with nowhere to go to be able to bring it closer to the min spec.

EDIT #2: Blah, I keep forgeting stuff, sorry. Can I just buy any 520 Master Link or do I have to get a Master Link that is the same brand as my chain? Thanks and hopefully no more edits.

[image: View Post]Infidel, on 23 December 2009 - 04:48 PM, said:

Heya gang.

There was a topic a few weeks or so ago related to Chains, Sprockets, and gearing, ect. ect. I made a comment that I already had a 45T on the rear and a new chain that was put on by someone else. I finally got around to putting on my 15T front sprocket today.

In that original thread, someone told me that I would not have to replace my chain or take a link out. I was told that all I had to do was slack the chain, put the new sprocket on, and readjust.

Well, I did that today, and I had to adjust the wheel all the way back to get the chain tight. Now it is at full adjustment backwards.

Is this bad? Do I now need to cut a link or two out of the chain and put it back together? If I do have to take links out, can I do this without removing the cover and sprocket again? I have the chain tools, just need to know if I am going to venture out and try this for the first time.

Thanks.

EDIT: When I say "Chain Tight", I mean that the chain has just the right slack per the owners manual at max. SO basically, at the min and max allowable slack, my chain is at the max allowable now with nowhere to go to be able to bring it closer to the min spec.

EDIT #2: Blah, I keep forgeting stuff, sorry. Can I just buy any 520 Master Link or do I have to get a Master Link that is the same brand as my chain? Thanks and hopefully no more edits.

I would suggest calling the the shipper. Tell them what bike you have and what the tooth count is f/r, and how many pins are in your present chain. Then ask what needs to be done at this point.

The reason is that it will depend on how many links you need to take out, can be a different solution.

It's a good possibilty that someone may have a tooth/chain chart link as well.

You will need to remove a link or two because over time the chain will stretch. Sooner or later the new chain is going to have too much slack in it and since you've already reached the max adjustment point you will need to be able to tighten it somehow. Removing a link while the chain is on the bike shouldn't be too difficult but it would definately be easier when the chain is off.

Regards,
Rollin

Hey, if you want to take a link out, you can. Just get a master rated the same as your chain (they rate the tensile strength and usually give a "max cc" for the bike. When you go to put your new master in (you said you have chain tool, so I recommend pinned vs clip) make sure you readjust the eccentric adjuster to the min. then you can take a link or 2 out and readjust to the spec
If you have the cash, get a new rear and a new chain. If not, keep an eye on it. I think Monk mentioned the stretching...it makes the chain rotate around funny, because it will be loose in some spots and tight in others - I guess it doesn't stretch evenly. That will tear up your rear sprocket. if you are running an aluminum rear, get the new chain - I have lost teeth to stretchy/funny chain.
Good luck!

ETA- same brand master not required. Chain is only as strong as its weakest link...meaning your new master should be strongest point since it hasn't been under tension yet. Make sure its 520, then make sure its rated at least as strong as your chain was originally.

[image: View Post]Jmmymc750, on 23 December 2009 - 08:01 PM, said:

Hey, if you want to take a link out, you can. Just get a master rated the same as your chain (they rate the tensile strength and usually give a "max cc" for the bike. When you go to put your new master in (you said you have chain tool, so I recommend pinned vs clip) make sure you readjust the eccentric adjuster to the min. then you can take a link or 2 out and readjust to the spec
If you have the cash, get a new rear and a new chain. If not, keep an eye on it. I think Monk mentioned the stretching...it makes the chain rotate around funny, because it will be loose in some spots and tight in others - I guess it doesn't stretch evenly. That will tear up your rear sprocket. if you are running an aluminum rear, get the new chain - I have lost teeth to stretchy/funny chain.
Good luck!

ETA- same brand master not required. Chain is only as strong as its weakest link...meaning your new master should be strongest point since it hasn't been under tension yet. Make sure its 520, then make sure its rated at least as strong as your chain was originally.

Cool replies to all. Thanks for the assistance.

Bought a ML this evening at the Honda place for my particular chain.

Forgive this stupid question, but what exactly is the link? Is the link one of the figure eight caps or is a link one of the pins? I am assuming I remove two pins not two of the figure eight caps which would result in 4 pins.


Thanks for the assistance.

[image: View Post]Infidel, on 23 December 2009 - 09:13 PM, said:

[image: View Post]Jmmymc750, on 23 December 2009 - 08:01 PM, said:

Hey, if you want to take a link out, you can. Just get a master rated the same as your chain (they rate the tensile strength and usually give a "max cc" for the bike. When you go to put your new master in (you said you have chain tool, so I recommend pinned vs clip) make sure you readjust the eccentric adjuster to the min. then you can take a link or 2 out and readjust to the spec
If you have the cash, get a new rear and a new chain. If not, keep an eye on it. I think Monk mentioned the stretching...it makes the chain rotate around funny, because it will be loose in some spots and tight in others - I guess it doesn't stretch evenly. That will tear up your rear sprocket. if you are running an aluminum rear, get the new chain - I have lost teeth to stretchy/funny chain.
Good luck!

ETA- same brand master not required. Chain is only as strong as its weakest link...meaning your new master should be strongest point since it hasn't been under tension yet. Make sure its 520, then make sure its rated at least as strong as your chain was originally.

Cool replies to all. Thanks for the assistance.

Bought a ML this evening at the Honda place for my particular chain.

Forgive this stupid question, but what exactly is the link? Is the link one of the figure eight caps or is a link one of the pins? I am assuming I remove two pins not two of the figure eight caps which would result in 4 pins.


Thanks for the assistance.

http://ekchain.com/links.htm

The masterlink is the piece that connects the two ends of the chain together. The masterlink is secured in place by either using rivet type pins or a clip that locks into the small grooves at the end of the pins. The rivet type is stronger and better in my opinion but requires that you have a special tool to flaten the head of the rivet so it doesn't slide back out of the back of the chain. The pic below shows the clip on type. Basically you would connect the two ends of the chain together by sliding the masterlink through the holes in the back of the chain and then put the plate on the outside of the chain before riveting or clipping in place.

Does your existing chain have a riveted masterlink or the clip on type?

http://www.vfrdiscussion.com/forum/uploads/1261344847/med_gallery_14198_4317_1509.jpg

Regards,
Rollin

[image: View Post]RollinAgain, on 23 December 2009 - 10:50 PM, said:

The masterlink is the piece that connects the two ends of the chain together. The masterlink is secured in place by either using rivet type pins or a clip that locks into the small grooves at the end of the pins. The rivet type is stronger and better in my opinion but requires that you have a special tool to flaten the head of the rivet so it doesn't slide back out of the back of the chain. The pic below shows the clip on type. Basically you would connect the two ends of the chain together by sliding the masterlink through the holes in the back of the chain and then put the plate on the outside of the chain before riveting or clipping in place.

Does your existing chain have a riveted masterlink or the clip on type?

http://www.vfrdiscussion.com/forum/uploads/1261344847/med_gallery_14198_4317_1509.jpg

Regards,
Rollin

It is rivited I guess because they all look the same. I counted 112 links. I just did some research and found a post by Bailey that said 110 is needed. However...

I have been scratching my head on trying to figure out what to cut out according to the link Monk has posted. I have a ML exactly like you have posted a pic of, but not the inside. If I remove two links, it looks like I am missing a piece.

EDIT: NM I am an idiot. I got it figured out. I have to cut an extra link but the ML will be replacing that so I am actually only cutting two. So cut three to replace with a ML and that leaves two.

Thanks for the assistance gang. This sight rocks.

[image: View Post]Infidel, on 23 December 2009 - 11:02 PM, said:

[image: View Post]RollinAgain, on 23 December 2009 - 10:50 PM, said:

The masterlink is the piece that connects the two ends of the chain together. The masterlink is secured in place by either using rivet type pins or a clip that locks into the small grooves at the end of the pins. The rivet type is stronger and better in my opinion but requires that you have a special tool to flaten the head of the rivet so it doesn't slide back out of the back of the chain. The pic below shows the clip on type. Basically you would connect the two ends of the chain together by sliding the masterlink through the holes in the back of the chain and then put the plate on the outside of the chain before riveting or clipping in place.

Does your existing chain have a riveted masterlink or the clip on type?

http://www.vfrdiscussion.com/forum/uploads/1261344847/med_gallery_14198_4317_1509.jpg

Regards,
Rollin

It is rivited I guess because they all look the same. I counted 112 links. I just did some research and found a post by Bailey that said 110 is needed. However...

I have been scratching my head on trying to figure out what to cut out according to the link Monk has posted. I have a ML exactly like you have posted a pic of, but not the inside. If I remove two links, it looks like I am missing a piece.

EDIT: NM I am an idiot. I got it figured out. I have to cut an extra link but the ML will be replacing that so I am actually only cutting two. So cut three to replace with a ML and that leaves two.

Thanks for the assistance gang. This sight rocks.

OK .... Here's "CHAIN-LINK COUNTING 101" ..... If you're suppose to have a 110 link chain, then count each pin when you get to the 110th pin there should be one side plate between pin 1 and pin 101..... there are two other ways to count links.... but this way is a "Fools-proof" count.... (The way I do it) :rolleyes: