My proiject bike need the gar tank cleaned, has anyone tried this product?
http://www.kbs-coati...-sealer-dot-com
anyothers out there you would recommend???
http://www.kbs-coati...-sealer-dot-com
anyothers out there you would recommend???
treating a rusty gastank
5 posts Started 6 Apr 2010 Last recovered post 6 Apr 2010 Wayback Machine snapshot 12 Aug 2012
[image: View Post]683, on 06 April 2010 - 05:14 AM, said:
My proiject bike need the gar tank cleaned, has anyone tried this product?http://www.kbs-coati...-sealer-dot-com
anyothers out there you would recommend???
I'd be a little worried about the longevity of how this would hold up over time. There are shops that can media blast the inside of the tank. Walnut shells work well as they will not damage the metal only remove the rust. Then keep the tank full to keep the air off it. Air is your biggest enemy.
POR-15 has a good reputation, a known product here, and it's only $5 more.
I bought it to treat a tank with both rust and green varnish deposits in the bottom 1/4 portion. I would describe the condition as surface rust with solid/even coverage in the affected area but no large flakes coming off. A three step system, the heavy duty cleaner in step one smelled very familiar when I applied it. Because I didn't do it correctly (my fault), some junk was left on the inside walls.
On a hunch, I bought a bottle of CLR concentrated cleaner from a home supply store and upon opening it I smelled the same type of odor as the step one cleaner in the POR-15 kit. A-HAA! I added the concentrate CLR in a 1 to 1 ratio with warm water and soaked the tank again. It removed the remaining rust and varnish deposits. After several flushes with clean water, draining, and then about 30 minutes with a hair dryer stuck in the fuel cap opening, I sprayed about 1/4 can of WD-40 all around the inside of the tank rotating its resting position every 10-15 minutes to ensure an even coating on all surfaces.
After draining the wd-40 residue which some of it had turned slightly milky white from wicking up the last bits of moisture, I stuck some rags in the openings and let the tank sit empty in a humid garage for 3 weeks with no sign off rust reappearing. YMMV
For major damage, the coating systems are a safe bet but if you only have light rust/deposits from a tank that, for example, wasn't stored with full of gas you might want to give the CLR concentrate, at less than $5 bucks a bottle, a try first. :cheerleader:
I bought it to treat a tank with both rust and green varnish deposits in the bottom 1/4 portion. I would describe the condition as surface rust with solid/even coverage in the affected area but no large flakes coming off. A three step system, the heavy duty cleaner in step one smelled very familiar when I applied it. Because I didn't do it correctly (my fault), some junk was left on the inside walls.
On a hunch, I bought a bottle of CLR concentrated cleaner from a home supply store and upon opening it I smelled the same type of odor as the step one cleaner in the POR-15 kit. A-HAA! I added the concentrate CLR in a 1 to 1 ratio with warm water and soaked the tank again. It removed the remaining rust and varnish deposits. After several flushes with clean water, draining, and then about 30 minutes with a hair dryer stuck in the fuel cap opening, I sprayed about 1/4 can of WD-40 all around the inside of the tank rotating its resting position every 10-15 minutes to ensure an even coating on all surfaces.
After draining the wd-40 residue which some of it had turned slightly milky white from wicking up the last bits of moisture, I stuck some rags in the openings and let the tank sit empty in a humid garage for 3 weeks with no sign off rust reappearing. YMMV
For major damage, the coating systems are a safe bet but if you only have light rust/deposits from a tank that, for example, wasn't stored with full of gas you might want to give the CLR concentrate, at less than $5 bucks a bottle, a try first. :cheerleader:
I've used POR-15 with good results.
The trick is the prep work. If you do it right, the coating will stick for the life of your bike.
As FotoMoto had said, if you don't have to use the coating, don't.
CLR is one of the 'home remedies' that removes rust and varnish. The other is concrete etching liquid. It is like $5 per gallon at a hardware store. Pour into the tank and add warm water and let it do its thing.
WARNING: DO NOT let it get on paint and DO NOT ADD HOT WATER. Ask me how I know... :cheerleader:
The trick is the prep work. If you do it right, the coating will stick for the life of your bike.
As FotoMoto had said, if you don't have to use the coating, don't.
CLR is one of the 'home remedies' that removes rust and varnish. The other is concrete etching liquid. It is like $5 per gallon at a hardware store. Pour into the tank and add warm water and let it do its thing.
WARNING: DO NOT let it get on paint and DO NOT ADD HOT WATER. Ask me how I know... :cheerleader:
I never even thought of POR and I have some of that in the garage.. hahah I will try the CLR method too since I have a jug of that under the sink...
As for concrete etching is probably muratic acid. It will f'up a paint job.
Thanks for the tips..
Lee
As for concrete etching is probably muratic acid. It will f'up a paint job.
Thanks for the tips..
Lee
End of thread · 5 posts recovered Wayback Machine snapshot 12 Aug 2012