Fifth gen valve clearance - tools and specs

Okay, I'm trying my own valve check and have a few questions.

I've owned bike (a 2001 fifth gen) since 3k miles, now has 18k, mostly commuting, never raced or on the track.

First, what do I need for feeler gauges? I haven't found any that do .01 mm increments in that range, so I'm using some straight SAE Sears Craftsman gauges. I calibrated the gauges with my micrometer and they're pretty close. I think some angled .12mm-.20mm and .26mm-.34mm would be great (metric specs are .16mm +/- .03mm intake and .30mm +/- .03mm exhaust), but may be overkill since the shims come in .025mm/.001" gradations anyway. Please give a source if you have one.

So, SAE specs on intake are .006" +/-.001", exhaust is .012" +/- .001".

Rear bank measures two exhaust valves at .010" (tight out-of-spec), two at .011" (tight end of in-spec), and all intakes at .005" (tight end of in-spec).
Front bank measures four exhaust valves at .011", three intakes at .006 (right in the middle spec), and one intake at .005". My measurement process shows the thickest gauge that I can fit. I don't try to hammer it in, so if it doesn't fit in with a just a bit of a push, I consider it a "no fit".

So, I have two valves that are out-of-spec and definitely need to be swapped. However, I also have 11 valves that are on the tight end of in-spec, where adding a size larger would place them back in the center of the spec range.

What shall I do? Replace only the two that are definitely out of spec, or replace the other 11 as well, assuming that they'll be out of spec (and tight!) by the next valve check? Is the target the center of the spec, or is anything in the range fine, or is there even one end of the range that's preferable?

When I did mine I replaced any that were out. .005 isn't out, .011 isn't out. If it were mine I would replace the ones that are out of spec, not the ones that are close. No sense replacing ones that are okay, that's why they give you a range. JMO of course.

Make sure not so swap buckets around, keep them in order. If you have a shim thats too tight you can sand the shim down with some wet sandpaper 400 grit then measure again after washing the grit off. Thats what I always do. I had all the same size shims on one side and a variation on the other side so I had to sand mine down for two valves that were tight. If they are just on the edge of spec your ok for the valve service interval. Ideal would be right on spec but thats tough to come by, as long as they are in spec. I bought a set that comes all together mostly sae sizes, marked with mm too but it same in sae intervals.