Rear End Issue

Something seems to be causing my rear wheel to turn slowly. I had noticed a strange vibration in slow speed turns, but I didn't discover anything amiss until I was cleaning the rear wheel and found that it took a lot more effort to turn it than usual.

First thing I checked was chain tension. No problems there; I had just adjusted it no more than a week beforehand. My next thought was the brakes. I took a short ride and then got off and felt the disk. It was hot but not exceedingly so. Still, it did feel hotter than it should. So today I removed the pads. There's a small wear spot on the rear sliding pin (I ordered a new one), but the pads themselves look ok. I attempted to spin the wheel, but there's no difference; it still takes much more effort to turn the wheel. I pulled in the clutch, but that made no difference.

Is this indicative of an imminent rear bearing failure? If so, how much of a hassle is it to replace said bearing? Anything else I ought to consider as a cause?

Thanks,
blkrabit

well

you done everything except remove the chain and see how the wheel turn then. I'm wondering how far those rear axles can go with no service, mine is very free no side play at 77,000 mile, but I run 90 to 130 all the time

@spud: I'd like to do that to completely remove the engine/transmission from the equation. I didn't have the time to do it today. My bike has about 45,000 on it.

You're on the right track.

Loosen the chain and set it off to the left of the sprocket and spin again.

Then lever the rear brake pads away from the rotor with a screwdriver so you can see daylight between both pads and the rotor. Spin again.

If it's still stiff, you need to investigate your rear axle bearings.

My bike has 75,000km on it and I've had the rear axle out twice for cleaning and re-greasing of all components. No problems ever, spins great. (we have long winters here)

I believe the cage needle bearing should be cleaned and regreased every 10K miles...

Because the RC45 and VFR employ the same caged needle bearing that
rides directly on on the rear axle here is my method to clean axle and bearing...

http://www.vfrdiscussion.com/forum/uploads/1129416028/gallery_3131_51_61974.jpg

Once you have the bearing removed you employ a two jewelers screw
drivers and carefully lift each roller from the cage...
http://www.vfrdiscussion.com/forum/uploads/1115053598/gallery_3131_51_49199.jpg


Give the rollers and cage a bath in gasoline... you be surprised at
all the dirty deposits hidden in the old grease and every nook and
cranny... you're looking at the deposits after only 10K miles of
normal operation...
http://www.vfrdiscussion.com/forum/uploads/1115053598/gallery_3131_51_47395.jpg


Once the bearing are really clean lay them out and inspect each roller
for scoring...
http://www.vfrdiscussion.com/forum/uploads/1115053598/gallery_3131_51_41593.jpg

Dirt mixed with the old grease will leave a trail of deposits on the
axle at point B...
http://www.vfrdiscussion.com/forum/uploads/1115053598/gallery_3131_51_14606.jpg

Spun in a Lathe... it's easy to remove the deposits employing a gray
micro fine 3M pad... it's soft enough that it does *not* remove any
precious metal...
http://www.vfrdiscussion.com/forum/uploads/1115053598/gallery_3131_51_40032.jpg

What you'll end up with is an axle with the deposits remove plus
giving the metal a nice luster...
http://www.vfrdiscussion.com/forum/uploads/1283035002/gallery_3131_51_39038.jpg

With the bearing cleaned and axle shinning you're ready for grease...
Questions???

Well, it's not the clutch/motor; I removed the chain from the rear sprocket and it's still slow to turn.

I assume I am going to need air tools to take apart the bearing holder?

[image: View Post]blkrabit, on 01 September 2010 - 10:29 PM, said:

Well, it's not the clutch/motor; I removed the chain from the rear sprocket and it's still slow to turn.

I assume I am going to need air tools to take apart the bearing holder?



Nope, just a 46mm socket and a LONG breaker bar.

Reinstall the chain on the sprocket and jam a short chunk of 2x4 between the chain and the sprocket and heave on the breaker bar. 46mm nut will come loose.

[image: View Post]Veefer800Canuck, on 02 September 2010 - 03:08 PM, said:

[image: View Post]blkrabit, on 01 September 2010 - 10:29 PM, said:

Well, it's not the clutch/motor; I removed the chain from the rear sprocket and it's still slow to turn.

I assume I am going to need air tools to take apart the bearing holder?



Nope, just a 46mm socket and a LONG breaker bar.

Reinstall the chain on the sprocket and jam a short chunk of 2x4 between the chain and the sprocket and heave on the breaker bar. 46mm nut will come loose.


Sounds like I'll want to have someone sitting on the bike when I do that. I assume the nut has 'normal' threads?

[image: View Post]spud786, on 28 August 2010 - 08:10 PM, said:

well

you done everything except remove the chain and see how the wheel turn then. I'm wondering how far those rear axles can go with no service, mine is very free no side play at 77,000 mile, but I run 90 to 130 all the time


Uh, Spud, if you had an R1, you could get there faster........ :laugh:

[image: View Post]blkrabit, on 03 September 2010 - 08:56 PM, said:

[image: View Post]Veefer800Canuck, on 02 September 2010 - 03:08 PM, said:

[image: View Post]blkrabit, on 01 September 2010 - 10:29 PM, said:

Well, it's not the clutch/motor; I removed the chain from the rear sprocket and it's still slow to turn.

I assume I am going to need air tools to take apart the bearing holder?



Nope, just a 46mm socket and a LONG breaker bar.

Reinstall the chain on the sprocket and jam a short chunk of 2x4 between the chain and the sprocket and heave on the breaker bar. 46mm nut will come loose.


Sounds like I'll want to have someone sitting on the bike when I do that. I assume the nut has 'normal' threads?


It's certainly not a bad idea.

BTW, 46mm is the size of the single nut on the Triumph SSSA rear wheel. Those guys have found that a 1 & 13/16ths size socket will work in a pinch and is available from more places here in the USA. I got mine for about $7-8 at TSC. It's a tad bigger so I put a couple of wraps of duct tape around the nut for a better fit. It requires some serious torque also.

Well, as I'm not in possession of the tools to take apart the bearing holder, I bit the bullet and bought a new bearing holder (w/ bearings) from Service Honda. I just want to get some riding in before it gets too cold.

So I put the brake pads back in today and took a short ride. Now the wheel is turning freely again. WTF? I'm still going to replace the bearing holder, as it's already en route (and paid for). Oh well, maybe I can go faster when the new one's installed...