r/r or other charging issue? help please

ive been searching r/r and charging issues all day and haven't really gotten anywhere. i've got an 07 vfr800. the bike has been running fine up until last week. i drove it for about an hour with no problems. i put her away running fine. the next day i went to start her and no juice. enough to prime the pump and light the lcd panel and headlights, but not enough to start. i thought maybe i left the fan running too much and it sucked the battery dry, so i threw it on the charger for a half hour and it started. i drove it to school hoping a half hour ride with out the fan running should do the trick. a couple hours later and no go, i had to push start it. i made it home fine, and put it on the trickle charger over night hoping that would do the trick. it started and ran fine the next day, but by the end of the day it was getting a little weak. ive been praying that its not the charging system, as i thought honda ironed out all the r/r and wire harness issues by 2006. so i got a new battery today, charged it up and installed it. i hooked up a volt meter to it to see if i was in the clear. with the bike sitting in off position ive got 13 volts. start it up and idling im at only 12.5 volts. i rev it up to 6000 rpms and im only at 12.8 volts!!! wtf! im supposed to be at 14.5 volts above 4 grand right? so is my r/r fried? or my stator bad? wire harness? i don't know where to go from here... on a side note, before i got the new battery i tried to to test the voltage. with the bike idling, when you unplug the battery it dies. i don't know if this is normal or not. it would run with the dead battery. it wouldn't start but it would push start and then run fine. if you unplugged the battery it would just die. i dont know where to go from here. i would really appreciate any advice. thanks

Sounds like the same issues with my bike this summer on my trip. Mine had a bad stator which caused the regulator to fail and then drew power from the battery until the battery was toast, too.

With a charged battery it would run for a day or two then once the battery died I couldn't get it going again. When there was still power in the battery I could push start it. Once the battery was toast I couldn't start it at all.

If you have a new battery it is likely either the regulator/rectifier (which manages voltage for the electrical system) or the stator (which creates power for the electrical system). New R/R is $150 and a new stator plus install was about $400.

You're right the voltage should be over 14 volts for the system from the stator and regulator. I think the tech that worked on my bike said the voltage from the stator should be over 16-17 volts, then down to 14 or so at the regulator.

Good luck. You're not alone with this issue. It's happened to several people on this forum. Maybe like the wiring harness issue it's time for a bunch of people to band together and create a class-action lawsuit.

[image: View Post]CandyRedRC46, on 06 September 2010 - 04:07 PM, said:

i dont know where to go from here. i would really appreciate any advice. thanks


Don't worry mate, these problems are easy to diagnose. First thing is to check if your stator is working - because if it's OK then the problem is your regulator.

First thing is to check your stator. You need a multimeter for this, and you set it to measure 200 volts AC or more. Take your left hand fairing off. Just below the frame spar, you will see a plug with three yellow wires on either side of it. Disconnect this, then start the bike and let it idle.

Connect the multimeter leads to pins 1-2 and take a voltage reading, then pins 1-3 and take a voltage reading, then pins 2-3 of the plug that comes from inside the frame. Each time you connect the multimeter, you should get a reading somewhere around 30 to 40 volts. What's important is that the voltage is at least about 30-40 volts and they are all a very similar reading! If your AC voltage reading is at least 30 volts at idle, you can now rev the engine to 5,000 rpm and hold it there while you repear the above multimeter test. The voltages should now be about 65 volts AC.

So if all of the above is fine, you have a dud regulator and need to buy a new one. It's a simple replacement - it only has one plug coming out of it that you just re-connect to the bike.

If the above tests fail - particularly if you have low voltages (say, under 20 volts AC) at idle, or if the voltages are completely different, then your stator is fried and you need a new one. Replacing a stator needs some mechanical knowledge so if you don't have any it's best left to a mechanic!

The tools you will need for replacing the stator are:

• Socket set with 8mm sockets
  
• Impact screwdriver and a set of torx bits that fit into it. This is to remove the stator itself from the stator cover
  
• A strong wooden bench to put the stator cover on when you belt the stator screws with the impact driver, and somebody to hold the stator cover while you do this!
  
• Some string to tie the stator wires to, so that you can pull the wires through the frame and between the "V" of the motor.

If your regulator is the dud item, we recommend that you buy a MOSFET unit - particularly an FH012AA from a 2006+ Yamaha R1 or FJR1300. These require some work with the connectors (someone has to do some soldering) but they are much more reliable, can chuck out way more amps, and don't tend to fail.

There's one on FleaBay right now actually: Yamaha 2007 voltage regulator.

You'll also want some connectors to go with it.

you should see 14.5v just above idle on low beams

High beams you should see 14.5 at 5000 rpm

if your not seeing that with a fully charged battery, then you more than likely have a bad stator or RR

THe easiest thing to do is stator with stator ground check the 3 yellow wires on right side if bike, coming from underneathe the throttle boddies.

ON the highest Mega ohm setting test each wire to ground NO CONTINUITY AT ALL), and each wire to one another out to read about 1 kohm.


if thats not right , you found the issue, next you can check the ac voltage from the stator, there are some other flow charts around. But I'd go staright for the stator check .

im at 78 ,000 mile and only one failure at 56,000 mile. the stator.


JUst curious , try this battery test, with full charged battery leave headlight on for 2 minutes, see if you have enough ooomph to start the motor afterwards.


the 06 RR's are very solid and rarely fail, dont waste time with anything other than oem, if by chance it was that.

thanks alot guys i really appreciate it. ill give this a try and let you know the out come.

[image: View Post]spud786, on 06 September 2010 - 06:17 PM, said:

ON the highest Mega ohm setting test each wire to ground NO CONTINUITY AT ALL), and each wire to one another out to read about 1 kohm.

...

im at 78 ,000 mile and only one failure at 56,000 mile. the stator.



No-charge condition on my '04 w/ 33,000 miles here and I've got great continuity between each of the contacts at this connector, the 3 yellow wires to the stator in a creme colored connector. I also have excellent continuity between these contacts and chassis ground.

So unless today is backwards day, it looks like I've got a dead stator. Great. Now to research how to r&r that part...

[image: View Post]pres589, on 08 September 2010 - 05:55 PM, said:

[image: View Post]spud786, on 06 September 2010 - 06:17 PM, said:

ON the highest Mega ohm setting test each wire to ground NO CONTINUITY AT ALL), and each wire to one another out to read about 1 kohm.

...

im at 78 ,000 mile and only one failure at 56,000 mile. the stator.



No-charge condition on my '04 w/ 33,000 miles here and I've got great continuity between each of the contacts at this connector, the 3 yellow wires to the stator in a creme colored connector. I also have excellent continuity between these contacts and chassis ground.

So unless today is backwards day, it looks like I've got a dead stator. Great. Now to research how to r&r that part...


im right there with you brotha

my last two stator failures, different bikes, I had to go no further than that ground check.

Now the VFR, I had one of those extend warranties, so I took to the shop , zero deductable warranty, THe dealer wanted $250 as the warranty company only paid so much.

I said, then you need to go back to warranty company, you sold me the zero deductable warranty. But NObody will accept these warranties, so dont think use can use it anywhere other than place of purschase, even though its a nationwide policy.

nobody will accept it FYI too hard to get paid

[image: View Post]kaldek, on 06 September 2010 - 05:51 PM, said:

Take your left hand fairing off. Just below the frame spar, you will see a plug with three yellow wires on either side of it.

Kaldek you say left side

[image: View Post]spud786, on 06 September 2010 - 06:17 PM, said:

THe easiest thing to do is stator with stator ground check the 3 yellow wires on right side if bike, coming from underneathe the throttle boddies.


Spud,you say right side

Is this a mistake?Also Kaldek is there a thread about rewiring the Mosfet regulator.
Has anyone had success/failures with these?
Thanks,
Michael

well i went and ordered a vfrness and an accel r/r. im hoping that the stator is fine, but we'll see after i put in the new r/r and vfrness. im thinking that with the vfrness in conjunction with moving the r/r forward a few inches (into an open air stream, to keep temps down) should keep this r/r alive for a while. the vfrness arrives today but unfortunately the r/r is backordered and isnt expected until oct. 16. i shoulda just ordered the mosfet r/r from wiremybike.com too... oh well.

[image: View Post]mznyc, on 24 September 2010 - 10:09 AM, said:

[image: View Post]kaldek, on 06 September 2010 - 05:51 PM, said:

Take your left hand fairing off. Just below the frame spar, you will see a plug with three yellow wires on either side of it.

Kaldek you say left side

[image: View Post]spud786, on 06 September 2010 - 06:17 PM, said:

THe easiest thing to do is stator with stator ground check the 3 yellow wires on right side if bike, coming from underneathe the throttle boddies.


Spud,you say right side

Is this a mistake?Also Kaldek is there a thread about rewiring the Mosfet regulator.
Has anyone had success/failures with these?
Thanks,
Michael



Im talking 6th gen , theres nothing wrong with rr location on the 6th gen, and thats correct the yellow wires are in the right side

6th gen RR's are a whole lot more reliable than the stator

You shouldn't need to move the R/R. I have not heard of an Accel R/R. Stator is on the left side, but the wires go to the right side...hence the confusion earlier in this thread. I would test Stator output before installing a new R/R, or replace both...if the Stator is shorted out you may damage your new R/R using it.

Interesting. My r/r and stator both failed this summer in the US (I'm Canadian).
My extended warranty was good at any Honda shop in the US or Canada - $50 deductible.
Filed my claim when I got home from my trip and they reimbursed all labour and parts (except the new battery).

[image: View Post]spud786, on 08 September 2010 - 10:25 PM, said:

my last two stator failures, different bikes, I had to go no further than that ground check.

Now the VFR, I had one of those extend warranties, so I took to the shop , zero deductable warranty, THe dealer wanted $250 as the warranty company only paid so much.

I said, then you need to go back to warranty company, you sold me the zero deductable warranty. But NObody will accept these warranties, so dont think use can use it anywhere other than place of purschase, even though its a nationwide policy.

nobody will accept it FYI too hard to get paid

[image: View Post]superfunkomatic, on 24 September 2010 - 05:02 PM, said:

Interesting. My r/r and stator both failed this summer in the US (I'm Canadian).
My extended warranty was good at any Honda shop in the US or Canada - $50 deductible.
Filed my claim when I got home from my trip and they reimbursed all labour and parts (except the new battery).

[image: View Post]spud786, on 08 September 2010 - 10:25 PM, said:

my last two stator failures, different bikes, I had to go no further than that ground check.

Now the VFR, I had one of those extend warranties, so I took to the shop , zero deductable warranty, THe dealer wanted $250 as the warranty company only paid so much.

I said, then you need to go back to warranty company, you sold me the zero deductable warranty. But NObody will accept these warranties, so dont think use can use it anywhere other than place of purschase, even though its a nationwide policy.

nobody will accept it FYI too hard to get paid




Yeh, Northern Honda dealer said I have to pay the bill then file a claim, thats not the way it was supposed to work at any Honda dealer , as the way its sold. So I had to go back to original dealer of purchase and they wanted $220 at time to pick up the bike cuase the warrnty didnt cover all the covererd cost, I had already trouble shooted the bike, I just took it there to get some money out of that warranty.

Anyway , nuff of that

[image: View Post]Tightwad, on 24 September 2010 - 05:02 PM, said:

You shouldn't need to move the R/R. I have not heard of an Accel R/R. Stator is on the left side, but the wires go to the right side...hence the confusion earlier in this thread. I would test Stator output before installing a new R/R, or replace both...if the Stator is shorted out you may damage your new R/R using it.

TWad you carry the mosfet's are they plug and play ,or is a connector mod required?
Thanks,
Michael

okay so the overall consensus is that i test the stator before installing the new r/r, just in-case my stator is bad so i don't fry the new r/r... right?
can i get a detailed how to, exactly go about testing the stator. I've heard, "measure the continuity and grounds between the the various wires, in ohms..." i get the basic overall idea, but can someone go into more detail? thanks guys.

 kaldek, on 06 September 2010 - 05:51 PM, said:

 CandyRedRC46, on 06 September 2010 - 04:07 PM, said:

i dont know where to go from here. i would really appreciate any advice. thanks




First thing is to check your stator. You need a multimeter for this, and you set it to measure 200 volts AC or more. Take your left hand fairing off. Just below the frame spar, you will see a plug with three yellow wires on either side of it. Disconnect this, then start the bike and let it idle.

Connect the multimeter leads to pins 1-2 and take a voltage reading, then pins 1-3 and take a voltage reading, then pins 2-3 of the plug that comes from inside the frame. Each time you connect the multimeter, you should get a reading somewhere around 30 to 40 volts. What's important is that the voltage is at least about 30-40 volts and they are all a very similar reading! If your AC voltage reading is at least 30 volts at idle, you can now rev the engine to 5,000 rpm and hold it there while you repear the above multimeter test. The voltages should now be about 65 volts AC.


I just did this test and only saw 21-22 v between all three yellow wires on connector going under frame towards engine at idle but saw 65 v @ 5k .Hmm,what gives?
Only see .2 ohms between contact and 0 from contacts to frame(assuming that's a good ground test point?).Unless my tester is set right.

13.9v @ idle
14.8 @ 5K (Honda SM says 15.5 is spec)
.2 ohms between yellow wires(Honda says .1-1.0 )
No cont between ground and yellow
1.81 mA leakage test(Honda less than 2.5)
Any thoughts?
New batt
Have punch mark before Vin on frame and believe I called Honda when I bought bike and said the stator was done.Haven't updated harness,but no melting.A slight discoloring almost unseen on stator wire cover.
The only un-Honda like symptoms showing is if I let the bike sit for a few weeks the battery was weak or dead.It was probably original ,so eight years old,but previous bikes I could let bike sit off charger for months and she would almost always start.Replaced with new Yuasa 14 but should I worry about that 1 v discrepency at 5K.
Bad Regulator?
Thanks,
Michael

 mznyc, on 25 September 2010 - 11:38 AM, said:

 kaldek, on 06 September 2010 - 05:51 PM, said:

 CandyRedRC46, on 06 September 2010 - 04:07 PM, said:

i dont know where to go from here. i would really appreciate any advice. thanks




First thing is to check your stator. You need a multimeter for this, and you set it to measure 200 volts AC or more. Take your left hand fairing off. Just below the frame spar, you will see a plug with three yellow wires on either side of it. Disconnect this, then start the bike and let it idle.

Connect the multimeter leads to pins 1-2 and take a voltage reading, then pins 1-3 and take a voltage reading, then pins 2-3 of the plug that comes from inside the frame. Each time you connect the multimeter, you should get a reading somewhere around 30 to 40 volts. What's important is that the voltage is at least about 30-40 volts and they are all a very similar reading! If your AC voltage reading is at least 30 volts at idle, you can now rev the engine to 5,000 rpm and hold it there while you repear the above multimeter test. The voltages should now be about 65 volts AC.


I just did this test and only saw 21-22 v between all three yellow wires on connector going under frame towards engine at idle but saw 65 v @ 5k .Hmm,what gives?
Only see .2 ohms between contact and 0 from contacts to frame(assuming that's a good ground test point?).Unless my tester is set right.

13.9v @ idle
14.8 @ 5K (Honda SM says 15.5 is spec)
.2 ohms between yellow wires(Honda says .1-1.0 )
No cont between ground and yellow
1.81 mA leakage test(Honda less than 2.5)
Any thoughts?
New batt
Have punch mark before Vin on frame and believe I called Honda when I bought bike and said the stator was done.Haven't updated harness,but no melting.A slight discoloring almost unseen on stator wire cover.
The only un-Honda like symptoms showing is if I let the bike sit for a few weeks the battery was weak or dead.It was probably original ,so eight years old,but previous bikes I could let bike sit off charger for months and she would almost always start.Replaced with new Yuasa 14 but should I worry about that 1 v discrepency at 5K.
Bad Regulator?
Thanks,
Michael


That 15 .5 is max voltage, its really too high , more than 15 volt, youy loble to fry wiring, 14.8 volt is fine and where it should be

well i finally got my r/r and tested the stator before installation of the new r/r and vfrness...long story short ive got a ricks stator on the way...
my stator had full continuity between all 3 phases as well as with ground. it was putting out only 3 vac outa phase one 11 vac outa phase two and a whopping 16 vac out phase three.... so wtf i change out the stator r/r and put in a vfrness and whose to say this isnt gonna happen in another 17000 miles. this is bull shit.
side note no conections were even remotely burnt...

[image: View Post]CandyRedRC46, on 06 September 2010 - 04:07 PM, said:

when you unplug the battery it dies. i don't know if this is normal or not. it would run with the dead battery. if you unplugged the battery it would just die.


I admit that I only scanned this, the 30,000th thread on RR's and stators but this caught my attention. If no one else has pointed it out: If your RR wasn't shot before it now surely is, or if it's not you will have stripped a few of it's lives away for sure. Never unplug or disconnect the battery or any part of the charging system with the engine running, it will spike the reg and fry the diodes. You may have only had a bad battery but by unplugging things withthe engine running you might have caused yourself more grief! Install a voltmeter and keep an eye on it. Best of luck.

[image: View Post]CandyRedRC46, on 18 October 2010 - 08:26 PM, said:

well i finally got my r/r and tested the stator before installation of the new r/r and vfrness...long story short ive got a ricks stator on the way...
my stator had full continuity between all 3 phases as well as with ground. it was putting out only 3 vac outa phase one 11 vac outa phase two and a whopping 16 vac out phase three.... so wtf i change out the stator r/r and put in a vfrness and whose to say this isnt gonna happen in another 17000 miles. this is bull shit.
side note no conections were even remotely burnt...


IMO the after market sector is more risky for problems. But I got to admit a failed 07 stator at 17,000 mile is very low and not normal. My second stator , first one shorted at 56,000 mile, now has 24,000 mile on it. The only notice I got on the first stator 2 weeks before it died, was the voltage was around 14 volt while riding and never varied, Where normally its up in the mid 14's or higher. I should have paid attention to that, I see it again another stator will be popped in.


The vfr is not getting enough cooling in the upper quadrant of the stator and it fries. I heard yamaha made some kind of cut or hole in the rotor nut, so it slings oil better.

[image: View Post]Squamishvfr, on 18 October 2010 - 08:38 PM, said:

[image: View Post]CandyRedRC46, on 06 September 2010 - 04:07 PM, said:

when you unplug the battery it dies. i don't know if this is normal or not. it would run with the dead battery. if you unplugged the battery it would just die.


I admit that I only scanned this, the 30,000th thread on RR's and stators but this caught my attention. If no one else has pointed it out: If your RR wasn't shot before it now surely is, or if it's not you will have stripped a few of it's lives away for sure. Never unplug or disconnect the battery or any part of the charging system with the engine running, it will spike the reg and fry the diodes. You may have only had a bad battery but by unplugging things withthe engine running you might have caused yourself more grief! Install a voltmeter and keep an eye on it. Best of luck.


well ive got a new accel r/r and a vfrness sitting on my desk. ricks stator on the way. so im not too concerned any more, but yeah i wont do that again... lol

[image: View Post]spud786, on 18 October 2010 - 08:54 PM, said:

[image: View Post]CandyRedRC46, on 18 October 2010 - 08:26 PM, said:

well i finally got my r/r and tested the stator before installation of the new r/r and vfrness...long story short ive got a ricks stator on the way...
my stator had full continuity between all 3 phases as well as with ground. it was putting out only 3 vac outa phase one 11 vac outa phase two and a whopping 16 vac out phase three.... so wtf i change out the stator r/r and put in a vfrness and whose to say this isnt gonna happen in another 17000 miles. this is bull shit.
side note no conections were even remotely burnt...


IMO the after market sector is more risky for problems. But I got to admit a failed 07 stator at 17,000 mile is very low and not normal. My second stator , first one shorted at 56,000 mile, now has 24,000 mile on it. The only notice I got on the first stator 2 weeks before it died, was the voltage was around 14 volt while riding and never varied, Where normally its up in the mid 14's or higher. I should have paid attention to that, I see it again another stator will be popped in.


The vfr is not getting enough cooling in the upper quadrant of the stator and it fries. I heard yamaha made some kind of cut or hole in the rotor nut, so it slings oil better.



well at 17000 miles and 3 years i have absolutely no faith in honda electronics so f!@# oem. unless these aftermarket components fail after a couple thousand miles im sticking with them.
now as far a keeping the stator cool... are you saying stators are wet and kept in an oil bath, or they stay dry. other than installing the vfrness and maybe moving the r/r to a cooler air stream in order to help all these components last longer is there any other things to do?