Help! FI MAP Fault Signal

My choke cable has been stuck for a while and I couldn't get it to free up. I finally had to pull the gas tank and the entire air box to get to the cable, which was kinked. I unlinked it and it works fine now.

I also cleaned and oiled the K&N filter.

I put everything back together, fired it up (rough for a few seconds, then smooth idle), and the FI light came on after a few seconds. It blinks twice, which according to the manual means either:
1) Loose or poor contacts on MAP sensor connector, or...
2) Faulty MAP sensor.

I checked the connection and it's tight. The MAP sensor wasn't faulty before I started, so I'm skeptical that now it's suddenly bad.

I did a search and found a 2007 post saying that the MAP is only operable at very small throttle openings, and is ignored at higher throttle openings (or something to that effect). I have a 3,500 mile ride starting next Sunday. If this statement is true, should I just ignore this, or am I looking for trouble?

I could really use some help with this. I only have tomorrow to fix this, if it needs to be fixed, otherwise I have to cancel my trip. Thanks to all!

Sounds like a simple missed wire plug somewhere on the airbox, just pull it apart and find the little booger.
Really doubt the MAP sensor failed during your work.

BR
PS I don't think I would cancel the trip if you don't get this fixed.

A vacuum tube discconnected could also give you that error. I would remove the connector clean it with some wd 40 and reconnect and check for an unplugged vacuum hose.

[image: View Post]Knife, on 25 September 2010 - 05:37 PM, said:

I put everything back together, fired it up (rough for a few seconds, then smooth idle), and the FI light came on after a few seconds. It blinks twice, which according to the manual means either:
1) Loose or poor contacts on MAP sensor connector, or...
2) Faulty MAP sensor.


You've most likely pulled the vacuum hose off the MAP sensor. Easy to do, and easy to fix!

If the hose won't go back on tight, just trim a tiny bit off the end of it and it should go on nice and tight again.

Note that you CAN ride the VFR without the MAP sensor working. You may not even notice the difference if the preprogrammed engine mapping matches the fuel you're running, and the altitude you're at, etc.

Thanks for the replies. http://www.vfrdiscussion.com/forum/public/style_emoticons/default/beer.gif I'll tear it down again in the morning and see if there's a vacuum tube or plug disconnected. If not, I'm glad to hear that it should be OK to ride anyway.

[image: View Post]Knife, on 25 September 2010 - 09:35 PM, said:

Thanks for the replies. http://www.vfrdiscussion.com/forum/public/style_emoticons/default/beer.gif I'll tear it down again in the morning and see if there's a vacuum tube or plug disconnected. If not, I'm glad to hear that it should be OK to ride anyway.


No worries. Just be aware that if you can't fix it for now, the bike may be hard to start and require some throttle for about three seconds until the ECU "gets the hint" that the MAP sensor vacuum lines are disconnected.