After today's ride, I've got 32,076 miles on my VFR. It's time to replace the spark plugs. Yesterday I ordered some NGK IMR9B-9H plugs and should have them in time for the weekend.
According to the owner's manual, new spark plugs are to be tightened a 1/2 turn after they seat. Simple enough. Here's my question: My bike is eight years old and the plugs in there now have never been removed. After I've removed them, will it be OK to spray a little WD-40 onto the threads of the new plugs? Ideally, I'd like the new plugs to go in as smooth as possible so that I know exactly when they seat. I don't want to over-tighten them. If I do this, do I risk the possibility of the new plugs working themselves loose? And if a drop of WD-40 gets into the combustion chamber, will that be any cause for alarm?
[image: View Post]EmeraldVFR, on 26 September 2010 - 09:32 PM, said:
After today's ride, I've got 32,076 miles on my VFR. It's time to replace the spark plugs. Yesterday I ordered some NGK IMR9B-9H plugs and should have them in time for the weekend.
According to the owner's manual, new spark plugs are to be tightened a 1/2 turn after they seat. Simple enough. Here's my question: My bike is eight years old and the plugs in there now have never been removed. After I've removed them, will it be OK to spray a little WD-40 onto the threads of the new plugs? Ideally, I'd like the new plugs to go in as smooth as possible so that I know exactly when they seat. I don't want to over-tighten them. If I do this, do I risk the possibility of the new plugs working themselves loose? And if a drop of WD-40 gets into the combustion chamber, will that be any cause for alarm?
Thanks!
You want to use compressed air to prevent dirt entry. Blow out before loosening, unsrew half way and blow again. When you torgue the plugs . break them loose again and retorque. This will prevent your new plug from coming loose . I just torq those by hand, they are small plugs and easly stripable
Torque spec (for 5th gens) for spark plugs is 12 Nm (about 9 ft-lb); just did mine today - I spread some anti-sieze compound on the threads before install as well as some of the spark plug boot dielectric grease on the top of the plugs and on the boot
Any auto parts store should have a little pack of anti-seize compound at the counter. The WD-40 wouldn't hurt, but it won't do what you want either......Anti-seize
[image: View Post]Monk, on 26 September 2010 - 10:48 PM, said:
Any auto parts store should have a little pack of anti-seize compound at the counter. The WD-40 wouldn't hurt, but it won't do what you want either......Anti-seize
This set of iridiums I have now has 52,000 mile on them . I think I'll replace this winter, I still have the original set with only 27,000 mile , thinking of reinstalling
Have always used a dab of engine oil on spark plug threads before they go in, on every engine I've ever had since early 80s. Never had a problem, either with combustion or them becoming loose. They come out nice without evidence of being loose, and there's always a remnant of oil material on the threads. *material* = oil burns but stays.
Anti-seize compound is probably better. Just never bothered to use that.
Don't be afraid of a speck of oil getting in a cylinder, it's what's done to long-stored engines to bring them to life or put them in stasis for a while.
There are some cautions you need to heed when using anti seize on spark plugs. The Anti seize lubes the threads and may cause over torquing, thus stretching them and causing them to strip later. Use 25% less torque when tightening them or you risk stretching the threads in the head. The plug threads are already chrome/nickel plated and therefore don't really need anti seize. Also do not get any anti seize on the porcelain or that could cause arcing as it is conductive. Also that crush washer on the plug is a one time use. You can get away with using it more than once but its not ideal.
[image: View Post]mechdziner714, on 27 September 2010 - 04:44 PM, said:
There are some cautions you need to heed when using anti seize on spark plugs. The Anti seize lubes the threads and may cause over torquing, thus stretching them and causing them to strip later. Use 25% less torque when tightening them or you risk stretching the threads in the head. The plug threads are already chrome/nickel plated and therefore don't really need anti seize. Also do not get any anti seize on the porcelain or that could cause arcing as it is conductive. Also that crush washer on the plug is a one time use. You can get away with using it more than once but its not ideal.
If I had a nickle for every time I see someone loose a plug, crash or tear up a motor , id be rich. The problem seating a new compression washer, it does not completely seat the first torquing, and will continue to compress afterwards when you walk away and start riding. When this happens the plug may lose all its torgue, or just have limited torque, the next ime to take it out and you say damn that was barely torqued.
Thats Why I say torue it first then break it loose and retorque, other wise your on your own, but I 've doing this a long long time, IT works Brilliantly
Got it done today (as well as an oil change.) The coils didn't stick to the plugs the way I thought they would. The plugs were also quite easy to unscrew from the heads. Once I got it all done, she fired right up. Thanks for everyone's input.
End of thread · 13 posts recoveredWayback Machine snapshot 18 Oct 2010