Looking at Spiegler LSL bars - I have questions

I've searched about every way I can think of - but I still have questions.

Maybe some of you that have made the transition to the LSL bars can guide me a little so I have an idea of how much time/effort this will take.

Okay - my current setup is:

• Heli-bars installed
• ThrottleMeister installed
• Heated grips installed

*Everything was installed already when I bought the bike, so I have no idea what was involved for the current setup.

I'm pretty sure that I'm going with a Spiegler LSL kit (Z120H098), and they indicate the LN1 kit is the one that I would need for my bike. That kit does NOT come with any additional cables (per their rep), so I would guess that the existing cables are long enough if I manage to re-route them correctly. If there are any 'weird' things to watch for, please let me know.

Now - bear with me as I have a few questions:
I've read some things here and viewed youtube and it sounds like I'm going to need to deal with the 14mm ID of the bars.
Q1. Will my current bar ends fit (or - does anyone know what size my bar ends probably are)?
Q2. If they do NOT fit, what would you do? Try to buy 14mm bar ends from Speigler? or grind the current ones down to fit?
Q3. Anyone have any ideas how this will affect the ThrottleMeister as I re-install it?

Q4. Anyone know what headaches I'm going to experience with the re-install of the heated grips?
Q5. I'm hoping that I don't have to bleed brakes/clutch lines - so is there some way I can prevent having to do this?
*(if I have to do this, I'll probably have to have this done by the dealer 'cause I'll screw this up)
Q6. Since it already has Helibars, I'm assuming that this swap might not take that long (maybe 2-3 hours). Any idea on how long I should plan to curse - uh - work on this?
Q7. Does anyone has a real good feel for exactly how to line up the clutch/brake assemblies to allow me to drill those 2 needed holes in the handlebar?
*(I'll probably end up having to drill more than 1 hole per side 'cause I'll screw this up).

Again - sorry to ask so many lame questions, but since I've never worked on heated grips, throttlemeister, and all those cables/lines.

Wish me luck.

:huh:

OK.

A1 Throttlemeister bar ends DO NOT fit. You have to order the 16mm bar ends from Throttlemeister for $32 plus shipping and then bore out the end of the handlebar with a 5/8" drill bit. You need to go 2.5-3" in.
A2 They don't have 14mm bar ends. It was a bummer.
A3 The throttlemeister works just fine with the new bar ends.
A4 No clue on the heated grips. I can use the engineering answer of "it depends"
A5 I did have to bleed the clutch, and if I had not already changed my front master cylinder to an F4i setup I would have had to bleed that one too. You have to basically get all of your hoses and wiring through the gap between the fork tube and the steerer tube. You also need to get your throttle cables out from in front of the steerer tube and get them behind the steerer tube. That part was kinda fun, swearing was involved. I disconnected them from the throttle body and fed them around.
A6 Minus the throttlemesiter install I only spent 2-3 hours on this. Of course I did not need to bleed my brakes, so YMMV. The throttlemeister drill out and install took me another 30 minutes.
A7 Drilling the holes. I screwed up, but in a good way. You want to mount the bar and sit on the bike, preferably for a while. Bar rotation is very important as it affects your wrist angle on the bars. I had my bars rolled too far back, and I had the kill switch/throttle assembly rolled too far back. Fixing one fixed the other. Lucked out there. I measured the Heli-bars to get the distance from the end that the hole needed to be, and made a dot on the bottom of the bars. I then used a nail set and hammer to put a dimple in the bar and drilled the holes out. 3/16" was a little too big, I've got some wiggle. I think I had the bars right when I measured for the hole, then when I remounted them I rolled them too far back. If your throttle is rolled too far back, your brake lever will hit the throttle wires. I had to mount my brakes and clutch about 5/8" in from the plastic to get the master cylinder covers to clear my fairing.

[image: View Post]CandyRed07, on 10 February 2011 - 11:14 AM, said:

I've searched about every way I can think of - but I still have questions.

Maybe some of you that have made the transition to the LSL bars can guide me a little so I have an idea of how much time/effort this will take.

Okay - my current setup is:

• Heli-bars installed
• ThrottleMeister installed
• Heated grips installed

*Everything was installed already when I bought the bike, so I have no idea what was involved for the current setup.

I'm pretty sure that I'm going with a Spiegler LSL kit (Z120H098), and they indicate the LN1 kit is the one that I would need for my bike. That kit does NOT come with any additional cables (per their rep), so I would guess that the existing cables are long enough if I manage to re-route them correctly. If there are any 'weird' things to watch for, please let me know.

Now - bear with me as I have a few questions:
I've read some things here and viewed youtube and it sounds like I'm going to need to deal with the 14mm ID of the bars.
Q1. Will my current bar ends fit (or - does anyone know what size my bar ends probably are)?
Q2. If they do NOT fit, what would you do? Try to buy 14mm bar ends from Speigler? or grind the current ones down to fit?
Q3. Anyone have any ideas how this will affect the ThrottleMeister as I re-install it?

Q4. Anyone know what headaches I'm going to experience with the re-install of the heated grips?
Q5. I'm hoping that I don't have to bleed brakes/clutch lines - so is there some way I can prevent having to do this?
*(if I have to do this, I'll probably have to have this done by the dealer 'cause I'll screw this up)
Q6. Since it already has Helibars, I'm assuming that this swap might not take that long (maybe 2-3 hours). Any idea on how long I should plan to curse - uh - work on this?
Q7. Does anyone has a real good feel for exactly how to line up the clutch/brake assemblies to allow me to drill those 2 needed holes in the handlebar?
*(I'll probably end up having to drill more than 1 hole per side 'cause I'll screw this up).

Again - sorry to ask so many lame questions, but since I've never worked on heated grips, throttlemeister, and all those cables/lines.

Wish me luck.

:huh:

My post from last week:

http://www.vfrdiscus...superbike-bars/

Thanks for the response. I actually had read your post earlier.

I'm a little nervous about drilling out the ID of the bars. Almost sounds like you need a drill press to be accurate enough for this - and I don't have a drill press. What's interesting is that Spiegler sells the bars with a 14mm ID, but it appears that the VFR bar ends are designed to be 16mm ID - what's up with that? Is it just because of the Throttle Meister requiring that size? I have really nice Throttle Meister bar ends, so I'm not wanting to toss perfectly good ones and order more. Also, drilling the bar might POSSIBLY make the bar thin/weak, but I'm not really sure how critical it is. That all just sounds strange to me, so I guess I'm gonna sit and re-think this for a few days. I'm going to look at everything this weekend and take a few measurements to see what is needed.

Thanks again for the response. Excellent detail.

The VFR bar ends are larger than 16mm, I didn't measure, but call it 18-20mm. I only ordered the bar inserts, which are needed anyway because the VFR Throttlemeister does not include a clutch side bar end insert, it uses the stock VFR steel/rubber insert. So even if the throttle side fit, you'd still need a clutch side insert.

The bar is 7/8" diameter, I bored it to 5/8" for the last 2.5 inches. I figure that 1/8" wall thickness on the last 2.5" of bar, where I'm really not putting any weight anyway should be fine. Also it's only a change from 14mm to 16mm in aluminum, so the drilling was really easy. I had the bar on the bike and used a 1/2" chuck handheld drill. I sprayed it with WD40 every once in a while and kept checking the bit centering by looking at how even the ridge was inside the bar. I was more nervous about drilling the location holes for the throttle and turn signal cluster than the boring.

But your comfort is your comfort. I only have about 25 miles on this setup. I'm likely to ride again this weekend since it's supposed to hit almost 50�F, but it was 17�F this morning and riding was very far from my mind...

[image: View Post]CandyRed07, on 11 February 2011 - 11:02 AM, said:

Thanks for the response. I actually had read your post earlier.

I'm a little nervous about drilling out the ID of the bars. Almost sounds like you need a drill press to be accurate enough for this - and I don't have a drill press. What's interesting is that Spiegler sells the bars with a 14mm ID, but it appears that the VFR bar ends are designed to be 16mm ID - what's up with that? Is it just because of the Throttle Meister requiring that size? I have really nice Throttle Meister bar ends, so I'm not wanting to toss perfectly good ones and order more. Also, drilling the bar might POSSIBLY make the bar thin/weak, but I'm not really sure how critical it is. That all just sounds strange to me, so I guess I'm gonna sit and re-think this for a few days. I'm going to look at everything this weekend and take a few measurements to see what is needed.

Thanks again for the response. Excellent detail.

Yeh - the bar is 7/8 (or 22mm) so you have a 3mm thickness for those 2.5"-3", which should be okay I guess. I love to tinker and grew up around mechanics, so most things come easy for me, but I'm not totally sure about this one. I'm still looking at it. Measured everything last night and the thickness thing I think I'm okay with. But those heated grips and Throttle Meister things are still bothering me. I rode again today for a few minutes. I love the way this bike handles, so I just want it to be comfy on those long rides that I like to make. I'm going to talk to some local MC shops and determine how much they'll charge to do this. I probably can't afford it, but I'm gonna check to see what my options are.

Thanks for your advice on these things. It helps when someone has already done what you want to do.

No problem. I still can't answer the heated grips thing, but the LSL bar is just a bar, so I would think just bout anything would slide onto it.. Another bonus is that most clamp on mounts for 7/8" bars should fit too...

[image: View Post]CandyRed07, on 12 February 2011 - 08:36 PM, said:

Yeh - the bar is 7/8 (or 22mm) so you have a 3mm thickness for those 2.5"-3", which should be okay I guess. I love to tinker and grew up around mechanics, so most things come easy for me, but I'm not totally sure about this one. I'm still looking at it. Measured everything last night and the thickness thing I think I'm okay with. But those heated grips and Throttle Meister things are still bothering me. I rode again today for a few minutes. I love the way this bike handles, so I just want it to be comfy on those long rides that I like to make. I'm going to talk to some local MC shops and determine how much they'll charge to do this. I probably can't afford it, but I'm gonna check to see what my options are.

Thanks for your advice on these things. It helps when someone has already done what you want to do.

Something not being mentioned yet.
I had some issues with the throttle cable not retruring to its original position with the new routing.
Also the change on chaving was present.
I replaced them with 2nd hand ST1100 (Pan european) throttle cables.
They can be used in the same routing as the original ones and teh are covered with na extra anti-chaving tube.

I just added some pictures in the thread linked by SereniTTy a few comments earlier.

Hope this helps a bit.