OK, this '95 VFR sat for about two years, I have had the carbs off, taken the jets out, soaked, cleaned them, synced the carbs, when the bike starts, it runs fine, idles great, runs down the road fine, the issue is it is a bear to start. Full choke/ partial choke/no choke, no difference, to start it I have to adjust the idle way up, then adjust it back down as it warms up. All the choke plungers work fine, move freely, all spring back to place just fine. My questions, is there a jet or choke circuit to get more fuel to carb during choke, or is it simply an air control thing? Is the third brass tower in the picture (touching with the allen wrench) a choke fuel jet? I get nothing through it, no air, can't even get a carb cleaning rod through it. I have tried about 30 psi of compressed air on two of the towers, but nothing goes through it.
I am going to take the plungers out and give them a look and make sure everything is clean there. Just confuses me that the bike won't start, but runs great!
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ok.. as you stated.. it a real pain to start your bike..
did you clean all the pilot jets? and did you remove the air/fuel mixture screws and o-ring/washer/spring set? and sync the carbs?
in any case..
to clean out that tube... you need a very stiff and VERY thin wire.. the hole so small you barely feel a difference when using an air compressor :fing02:
So there is a hole there? Man it must be small! Is it smaller the the hole in the idle jet? Does that hole lead to one of the three small holes right at the bottom/top of the butterfly?
Main jets, idle jets are all clean, took them out, soaked them, used a carb tool (small wires) to clean out all the holes. Replaced the o-rings on the idle mixture screws and the float bowl drains, also new o-rings/gaskets on the float bowls. The carbs were synced, like I said, the bike runs good, restarts when warm just fine, great idle, just cold start suxes.
I now know that I am getting too much fuel, not enough air during cold starts as a couple of cylinders will flood out, I have to get the bike warm and hold the throttle at about 4k to get the last cylinder firing last night after I put it together. Is there a chance I just need to ride the bike and get it good and hot at highway speeds to get the spark plugs cleaned and maybe then it will start better? The plugs were new a week ago, when I first put the carbs back on, I have only run it up and down my road (with a ver steep hill) about 10 times, not sure if that is enough to clean the plugs.
[image: View Post]SamW, on 25 February 2011 - 06:30 AM, said:
So there is a hole there? Man it must be small! Is it smaller the the hole in the idle jet? Does that hole lead to one of the three small holes right at the bottom/top of the butterfly?
Main jets, idle jets are all clean, took them out, soaked them, used a carb tool (small wires) to clean out all the holes. Replaced the o-rings on the idle mixture screws and the float bowl drains, also new o-rings/gaskets on the float bowls. The carbs were synced, like I said, the bike runs good, restarts when warm just fine, great idle, just cold start suxes.
I now know that I am getting too much fuel, not enough air during cold starts as a couple of cylinders will flood out, I have to get the bike warm and hold the throttle at about 4k to get the last cylinder firing last night after I put it together. Is there a chance I just need to ride the bike and get it good and hot at highway speeds to get the spark plugs cleaned and maybe then it will start better? The plugs were new a week ago, when I first put the carbs back on, I have only run it up and down my road (with a ver steep hill) about 10 times, not sure if that is enough to clean the plugs.
I am far from a Carb expert but it sounds like you have been diligent about cleaning them. I would replace the plugs for sure. When I brought my 93 home and did a quick carb cleaning (filled them with Techron and let them soak then drained them) it was a bear to start and get to idle. Once everything was cleaned properly and I put in new plugs the bike fired right up with the choke and settled down into a nice idle to sync the carbs. Plugs are relatively cheap, compared to your time and you might as well do it to eliminate all posibilities.
new sparkplugs make a MASSIVE difference.. put some new plugs in ..
yep the hole is smaller than the pilot jet hole.. just a little .. cant remember where it flows at the moment....
if yous till have starting problems let me know. :fing02:
Thanks guys, I will go pick up a set of plugs today and give them a shot, to be honest :blush: I left one main jet out one of the times I ran it (just in the garage for a few minutes) so I am sure that plug may have seen a bit too much fuel... Sort of sux, like I said, these plugs have only been in it for a week, but my own mistake...
New plugs seemed to help, I will try to start it again today and see how it does after sitting overnight, the old plugs were wet, no doubt. But it did take the chance to ride it around the nieghborhood a little, seems very good on the fueling and the chasis seems good. I did have to bend out the shifter a little, but not a big deal. Had a beer with the previous owner yesterday, told him I will help him get his CB-1000 back on the road, I think it too has been sitting since he wrecked the VFR a few years ago.
Here's one place where compressed air does nothing to clean things.
The long brass tubes pick up fuel that is sent through the enrichener circuits and are vital to good starting.
Spray some carb cleaner into the hole, then you MUST use a steel wire .010"-.012" in diameter to FIRST poke --and keep poking --through junk at a depth of 30mm ( level that fuel sits in carb), THEN, once past that blockage, all the way through the tube to a depth of 55-60mm. Follow with more carb cleaner and a final blast of air.
If you can't get the wire into the tube past 30mm, it's blocked up, and the choke is useless
Where is a good place to find "steel wire .010"-.012" in diameter"? I have the carb cleaning wire tool, but the smallest one does not seem to want to touch those holes. I have copper electrical wire, but it is not strong enough.
Still having trouble starting even with new plugs.
[image: View Post]SamW, on 28 February 2011 - 09:22 PM, said:
Where is a good place to find "steel wire .010"-.012" in diameter"? I have the carb cleaning wire tool, but the smallest one does not seem to want to touch those holes. I have copper electrical wire, but it is not strong enough.
Still having trouble starting even with new plugs.
I need some also. McMaster-Carr sells it.
http://www.mcmaster....steel/=b9x7bx�� A 1/4 pound roll of .011" wire costs $9.42. That's 734 feet, in case you're wondering. If I buy some, I'll send you a length if you still need it.
[image: View Post]highland, on 03 March 2011 - 02:18 PM, said:
[image: View Post]SamW, on 28 February 2011 - 09:22 PM, said:
Where is a good place to find "steel wire .010"-.012" in diameter"? I have the carb cleaning wire tool, but the smallest one does not seem to want to touch those holes. I have copper electrical wire, but it is not strong enough.
Still having trouble starting even with new plugs.
I need some also. McMaster-Carr sells it.
http://www.mcmaster....steel/=b9x7bx�� A 1/4 pound roll of .011" wire costs $9.42. That's 734 feet, in case you're wondering. If I buy some, I'll send you a length if you still need it.
If you have not ordered any yet, hold off, I got my shippment today of .008 wire and .011 wire, both come staight in a 6 foot section, so I can send you a little bit of both, just PM me.
I still have the cold start issue, but it seems to be getting better, I am just putting off pulling the carbs again. I did take her out for a fun 30 miles ride, filled her up with ethanol free 93 octane and rode a while! She seems to be running great, just need to tweak a few things here and there, shifter needs to be moved a notch, adjust the clutch lever, tweak the fairing stay a little. I also need to play with the suspension a little, this thing is set up stiffer than my RC...
But it is good to have her on the road now, just need that mid fairing and I can ride!
Might have better results with a lower octane fuel?
I think these run better on like 87. Unless Euro models are different......
[image: View Post]SamW, on 28 February 2011 - 09:22 PM, said:
Where is a good place to find "steel wire .010"-.012" in diameter"?
Jest ride yo ass on ova ta Nashville cuz dem guitar, banjo, or mandolin steel strings woik purdy dang well, by golly shucks !
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[image: View Post]SamW, on 28 February 2011 - 09:22 PM, said:
Where is a good place to find "steel wire .010"-.012" in diameter"? I have the carb cleaning wire tool, but the smallest one does not seem to want to touch those holes. I have copper electrical wire, but it is not strong enough.
Still having trouble starting even with new plugs.
hit your local music store.....those gauges are used as high E string on the guitar. String sets (all 6 strings) are sold in varying gauges (light, medium, heavy) but its only the top or E string you are concerned with.
Guitar string is one of the things I found when looking for .010 steel wire. Anyway, got some straight wire for making small springs and it worked out great, the jets are cleaned out now and in taking the carbs off for the fourth time I realized I put the air horns on wrong, so I have them corrected now and the choke is working now, of course it snowed about half the day, so sometime this week I will get it out for another ride, about time to order the mid fairing!
Thanks for the help!!!
End of thread · 16 posts recovered Wayback Machine snapshot 4 Jul 2012