Can someone guide me through this. The FSM is lacking on the Rectifier and shows the wrong picture and mine has different connectors than what is shown. I have an updated 98-01 FSM but I guess they didn't update this part.
How to test the Rectifier and Alternator?
11 posts Started 5 Jun 2011 Last recovered post 9 Jun 2011 Wayback Machine snapshot 30 Aug 2012
OK dude - I started looking at your video, but first back up and start over. Rehook up everything. This link keeps it simple... you need a volt meter.
http://www.ehow.com/...ing-system.html
http://www.ehow.com/...ing-system.html
[image: View Post]mello dude, on 05 June 2011 - 07:44 PM, said:
OK dude - I started looking at your video, but first back up and start over. Rehook up everything. This link keeps it simple... you need a volt meter.http://www.ehow.com/...ing-system.html
I was just repeating what the FSM says.
You're link is pretty much the same as the FSM. It's not just volt testing. You have to check for continuity on the parts with the bike off.
I watched your video - the manual is correct but you seem to be holding the regulator plug when the manual is saying to be looking at the stator plug.
The "red/white wire and ground" means to test continuity between the red/white wires and the green wires. Each red/white wire should show continuity between it and either of the green wires. Test all combinations (red 1 to green 1, red 1 to green 2, red 2 to green 1 red 2 to green 2).
The resistance measurements should only be performed between the three posts on the yellow wires that come from the stator. You test resistance between wires 1-2, 1-3, and 2-3 (doesn't matter which wire you call 1, 2 or 3, just pick a wire and stick with what you like to label them as. However, I've found these measurements useless, and only an AC voltage measurement is a true indicator of stator function. For that, you need to connect everything up aside from the stator plug, start the bike and measure the AC voltage at idle and 5,000rpm between pins 1-2, 1-3 and 2-3. In each case the voltage readings need to all be very similar
Often they will also ask you to perform a diode test. This is done on the three yellow wires that go to the regulator/rectifier. This helps prove basic regulator functionality, but again it is not a test that can truly tell you if your regulator is working. Only running the bike and measuring the output voltage at various rpms can really prove that. If the output voltage from the regulator is low, you need to test the AC voltage of the stator at various rpms to see if it's the stator which isn't working or if its the regulator.
The "red/white wire and ground" means to test continuity between the red/white wires and the green wires. Each red/white wire should show continuity between it and either of the green wires. Test all combinations (red 1 to green 1, red 1 to green 2, red 2 to green 1 red 2 to green 2).
The resistance measurements should only be performed between the three posts on the yellow wires that come from the stator. You test resistance between wires 1-2, 1-3, and 2-3 (doesn't matter which wire you call 1, 2 or 3, just pick a wire and stick with what you like to label them as. However, I've found these measurements useless, and only an AC voltage measurement is a true indicator of stator function. For that, you need to connect everything up aside from the stator plug, start the bike and measure the AC voltage at idle and 5,000rpm between pins 1-2, 1-3 and 2-3. In each case the voltage readings need to all be very similar
Often they will also ask you to perform a diode test. This is done on the three yellow wires that go to the regulator/rectifier. This helps prove basic regulator functionality, but again it is not a test that can truly tell you if your regulator is working. Only running the bike and measuring the output voltage at various rpms can really prove that. If the output voltage from the regulator is low, you need to test the AC voltage of the stator at various rpms to see if it's the stator which isn't working or if its the regulator.
Two things:
First, that isn't the upgraded OEM reg/rec. See these pics (original above; upgraded below):
[image: Posted Image]
P1000914x Y2k VFR800FiY OEM regulator/rectifier (Shindengen SH579C-12)
[image: Posted Image]
P1000917x Y2k VFR800FiY OEM regulator/rectifier (Shindengen SH689BD)
Second, maybe I missed it, but did you mention that you had tested the charging voltage at 5,000rpm? If it's not out of spec, you simply don't need to test the reg/rec. The '98-'01 FSM just gives the upper limit, 15.5v, but the Haynes manual and the '98-'99 FSM actually states that the complete spec is 14.0-14.8v. I don't know which is right, but if your charging voltage @5,000rpm is between 14.0v and 15.5v, your reg/rec tests as good.
You mentioned your new battery tests right at 13.0v, which is perfect (assuming this was after it had sat for a while, disconnected).
It sounds to me like your battery just died. For piece of mind, you could get it load-tested (if it's not already been binned).
Ciao,
First, that isn't the upgraded OEM reg/rec. See these pics (original above; upgraded below):
[image: Posted Image]
P1000914x Y2k VFR800FiY OEM regulator/rectifier (Shindengen SH579C-12)
[image: Posted Image]
P1000917x Y2k VFR800FiY OEM regulator/rectifier (Shindengen SH689BD)
Second, maybe I missed it, but did you mention that you had tested the charging voltage at 5,000rpm? If it's not out of spec, you simply don't need to test the reg/rec. The '98-'01 FSM just gives the upper limit, 15.5v, but the Haynes manual and the '98-'99 FSM actually states that the complete spec is 14.0-14.8v. I don't know which is right, but if your charging voltage @5,000rpm is between 14.0v and 15.5v, your reg/rec tests as good.
You mentioned your new battery tests right at 13.0v, which is perfect (assuming this was after it had sat for a while, disconnected).
It sounds to me like your battery just died. For piece of mind, you could get it load-tested (if it's not already been binned).
Ciao,
Thanks for the pics. I always hear about the upgraded Rectifier but I've never seen anyone post a pic of one. I may just end up changing out the Stator and Rec and keep these as spares. I really don't want to take another trip and have this happen again.
So was there ever a recall on the rectifier? If I was to order an OEM one would I most likely get the updated one?
I don't know, but then I've only owned a 5th-gen since December 2008, so I wasn't really paying too much attention to that particular VFR model's electrical woes. I believe the old style has been superseded by the new style, but that may depend on which Honda dealer you buy it from. It's worth asking!
I should probably mention that I'm going to have a spare upgraded RC46 reg/rec soon, because I've decided to upgrade (again!) to the CompuFire series-type reg/rec. (Both of the reg/recs shown in the pics I posted are mine--but the bike has not yet even been started with the new one installed!) Why? Because I don't think even the upgraded Shindengen is a long-term solution to the VFR's charging problems--I don't think it is even a MOSFET design (but I'm not 100% sure). Good luck.
Ciao,
I should probably mention that I'm going to have a spare upgraded RC46 reg/rec soon, because I've decided to upgrade (again!) to the CompuFire series-type reg/rec. (Both of the reg/recs shown in the pics I posted are mine--but the bike has not yet even been started with the new one installed!) Why? Because I don't think even the upgraded Shindengen is a long-term solution to the VFR's charging problems--I don't think it is even a MOSFET design (but I'm not 100% sure). Good luck.
Ciao,
You don't have the updated R/R.. all the fins on the one you have come out to the same level... as you can see in the photos posted by another member, the updated improved R/R's fins are stepped... higher in the middle and tapering down toward the outer fins.
Don't worry about the colour of the connetors... although I've never seen a 00-01's wiring, I did have a 98-99 5th gen and it did have the black connector with the three wires in the pyramid format you try to emulate with your fingers.
That doesn't matter. You are right, the three yellow ones are from the stator... that's where you'll be doing your testing.
But yeah, first things first.
Battery: should give 13 V DC aprox. with bike OFF. 12.7 would be acceptable. 12.3 and it's starting to look crook... charging needed (and load testing would be better)
Battery charge ok?
Then, bike running, output at battery terminals LESS THAN 15.5 V DC with hi-beams on and RPMs at 5000. You seemed worried that a lot of threads mentioned guys getting 14.3 V DC etc... I guess you haven't recognized the LESS THAN symbol <15.5 V.
If you keep raising the RPM and the voltage keeps rising and doesn't top out at 15.5... stop!! The R/R is fugged... precisely the regulating part.
Of course if you're getting less than 13.5 this is bad news and can either be the R/R regulating too much (also fugged) or the stator not outputting enough.
So... with only the stator connector unplugged... get bike running and test resistance (OHMS) between each combination of 2 yellow wires: Y1-Y2, Y2-Y3, Y1-Y3. You should get 0.1-1.0 OHMS. Zero is bad news and wildly different readings from one combo to the other aren't the best news.
Check contintuity, Y1 - Ground, Y2 - Ground, Y3 - Ground. You want NO CONTINUITY... some multimeters beep when there's contintuity... no beeping please.
Then with the meter set to V AC (not DC)... you want to check Y1-Y2, Y2-Y3, Y1-Y3 and you should get roughly 11 V AC per 1000 RPM... most importantly, you should get the same readings on all three combos. Cheack at idle and 5000 RPM. If one combo gives you 18 V AC at idle and the other two give 15 V AC... bad news.
Bad news = fugged stator
If the stator checks out ok, last ditch R/R test... test the red/white cable to ground... there should be voltage. Check the Green cable to Ground... there should be continuity.
If none of this leads you to any conclusion... Russian Roulette is much more fun!!
Don't worry about the colour of the connetors... although I've never seen a 00-01's wiring, I did have a 98-99 5th gen and it did have the black connector with the three wires in the pyramid format you try to emulate with your fingers.
That doesn't matter. You are right, the three yellow ones are from the stator... that's where you'll be doing your testing.
But yeah, first things first.
Battery: should give 13 V DC aprox. with bike OFF. 12.7 would be acceptable. 12.3 and it's starting to look crook... charging needed (and load testing would be better)
Battery charge ok?
Then, bike running, output at battery terminals LESS THAN 15.5 V DC with hi-beams on and RPMs at 5000. You seemed worried that a lot of threads mentioned guys getting 14.3 V DC etc... I guess you haven't recognized the LESS THAN symbol <15.5 V.
If you keep raising the RPM and the voltage keeps rising and doesn't top out at 15.5... stop!! The R/R is fugged... precisely the regulating part.
Of course if you're getting less than 13.5 this is bad news and can either be the R/R regulating too much (also fugged) or the stator not outputting enough.
So... with only the stator connector unplugged... get bike running and test resistance (OHMS) between each combination of 2 yellow wires: Y1-Y2, Y2-Y3, Y1-Y3. You should get 0.1-1.0 OHMS. Zero is bad news and wildly different readings from one combo to the other aren't the best news.
Check contintuity, Y1 - Ground, Y2 - Ground, Y3 - Ground. You want NO CONTINUITY... some multimeters beep when there's contintuity... no beeping please.
Then with the meter set to V AC (not DC)... you want to check Y1-Y2, Y2-Y3, Y1-Y3 and you should get roughly 11 V AC per 1000 RPM... most importantly, you should get the same readings on all three combos. Cheack at idle and 5000 RPM. If one combo gives you 18 V AC at idle and the other two give 15 V AC... bad news.
Bad news = fugged stator
If the stator checks out ok, last ditch R/R test... test the red/white cable to ground... there should be voltage. Check the Green cable to Ground... there should be continuity.
If none of this leads you to any conclusion... Russian Roulette is much more fun!!
:+1: to what Auspanol said.
Looks like Honda is on their 3rd upgraded RR judging by the pictures.
Unless the 01's came with the superseded (2nd upgrade) RR as stock.
14 years later and Shindengen are still trying to get it right. :pissed:
Looks like Honda is on their 3rd upgraded RR judging by the pictures.
Unless the 01's came with the superseded (2nd upgrade) RR as stock.
14 years later and Shindengen are still trying to get it right. :pissed:
Hard to say... According to CMSNL.com, worldwide there were no less than six different RC46-I reg/rec part numbers, altogether. Ron Ayers isn't real clear, but looking online and in my 1998 and 2001 US-spec microfiche, it appears that the original US-spec 5th-gen reg/rec
[image: Posted Image]
(31600-MBG-003--ignore the part number shown on the photo) was superseded in 2000 by 31600-MBG-D01 (which was the original OEM part number for the Y2k and '01 models), and then by either 31600-MBG-306 or 31600-MBG-305, pictured below:
[image: Posted Image]
It appears that both the -305 and -306 reg/recs are current parts, but I don't think there is supposed to be a difference between the two, given that under the Honda New Parts Numbering System, introduced in the 1970s, the last digit is supposed to refer to the subcontractor of the part. (I know they all appear to have been manufactured by Shindengen, but maybe this refers to the subcontractors' regional divisions?)
Ciao,
[image: Posted Image]
![[image: Posted Image]](http://images.cmsnl.com/img/products/31600-mbg-305-reg-rect-assy_medium31600MBG003-01_0d02.jpg){kind=link}
(31600-MBG-003--ignore the part number shown on the photo) was superseded in 2000 by 31600-MBG-D01 (which was the original OEM part number for the Y2k and '01 models), and then by either 31600-MBG-306 or 31600-MBG-305, pictured below:
[image: Posted Image]
![[image: Posted Image]](http://images.cmsnl.com/img/products/set-reg-rect_medium31600MBG305-01_b5c3.jpg){kind=link}
It appears that both the -305 and -306 reg/recs are current parts, but I don't think there is supposed to be a difference between the two, given that under the Honda New Parts Numbering System, introduced in the 1970s, the last digit is supposed to refer to the subcontractor of the part. (I know they all appear to have been manufactured by Shindengen, but maybe this refers to the subcontractors' regional divisions?)
Ciao,
End of thread · 11 posts recovered Wayback Machine snapshot 30 Aug 2012