I own a 2005 VFR... I bought it a couple years ago with 6k miles on it and am just about to roll 11k miles. I know... pathetic but I travel alot for work and it seems when I'm home I've been riding dirt more than the street (that's another discussion). The bike has been sitting stagnant for about 5+ months and all I did before I left was put some fuel stabilizer in it and since coming home surprise surprise the battery was dead and wouldn't hold a charge so I had to replace it. Bike fired right up. I'm getting ready to go on a 4 day bike trip and was thinking maybe I should do some routine maintenance on the bike before the trip but I'm not due for anything (12k miles is next scheduled maintenance). what would y'all recommend?
I've never pulled the plugs since I've owned the bike. The bike has never had a tuneup. The chain is taunt and cleaned. Oil needs to be changed but that's easy. Should I change my coolant? Should I change my brake fluid? Should I check my plugs or are they more than likely ok? The only issue I've ever had with the bike (aside from it not being used like it should) is sometimes when I blip the throttle when I have the clutch in (downshift) the bike will choke (RPM"s go to zero) and sometimes it dies. I have no idea why but I've learned not to do it....
I'd at least check your air filter. It probably needs to be changed if you've been doing a lot of dirt riding. Changing coolant can't hurt but won't really be necessary. Same for brake fluid, though your braking might feel better with no fluid. I wouldn't worry about spark plugs.
Not sure why your bike would stall like that, though...
Brale fluid and coolant that is 6-7 years old and probably has not been changed is due. The brake fliud is hydroscopic and absorbs water even in the form of condensation and coolant looses its properties to fight rust and sluge in time also.
Throw in a shot of Sea Foam or Techtron into the gas and take it for a long ride. That may clear the "engine dies" problem. It can't hurt.
Your cooling system will deaerate itself. However, I advise you to "burp" the engine after your change the coolant by running it till the thermostats open and the hoses to the radiators become hot. After the engine cools down, top off the coolant and reinstall your fairing.
Your brake system is a little more sensitive to air. Just be sure you dont pump all the brake fluid out of the reservoirs. If you do, bleeding the air out is tedious and time consuming,,,at least it is on my 5th gen. It has the linked brakes. good luck.
Don't know your level of expertise or if you have a service manual, so excuse me if I'm saying something you already know, but saying the "chain is taut" could be a problem. It should have a measured amount of slack to give the swingarm room to move. See your manual or the sticker on the swingarm for the measurement..IIRC it's measured up on the center stand.
More on the chain(as suggested read the service manual)........ Measure the lowest train of the chain , with a light touch, lift/lower and measure halfway between the frt/rear sprockets "mine" is 1¼" ....... It should be no less than a inch or more than an 1½" and check the chain in diff areas to see if it's the same, if not find the tightest section and adjust at that point and look for a new chain if it varies in measurement too much(should be the same all around).
[image: View Post]jeffyjeff, on 06 March 2012 - 12:52 AM, said:
Your cooling system will deaerate itself. However, I advise you to "burp" the engine after your change the coolant by running it till the thermostats open and the hoses to the radiators become hot. After the engine cools down, top off the coolant and reinstall your fairing.
Your brake system is a little more sensitive to air. Just be sure you dont pump all the brake fluid out of the reservoirs. If you do, bleeding the air out is tedious and time consuming,,,at least it is on my 5th gen. It has the linked brakes. good luck.
Best description I've heard to do the radiator..... I'll add one thing(I heard on here)........."Do it while on the sidestand" , the left lean puts the bike in a better position to get the air over to the top cap area.
End of thread · 11 posts recoveredWayback Machine snapshot 14 Oct 2012