I have an '01 with 100,000 mi. on it. I've used standard (dino) type oil from 4,000 mi. For my oil change last week I tried Shell Rotella T synthetic. From Walmart. About $3.50 a quart. (I've been using Honda oem filters the whole time). The bike's shifting feel has improved somewhat. For what it's worth.
I have an '01 with 100,000 mi. on it. I've used standard (dino) type oil from 4,000 mi. For my oil change last week I tried Shell Rotella T synthetic. From Walmart. About $3.50 a quart. (I've been using Honda oem filters the whole time). The bike's shifting feel has improved somewhat. For what it's worth.
That's the 5W40 stuff?
I good friend of mine used to be a chemical engineer for the Mobil 1 division of Exxon. After hearing some of the tests they did, I am sold on Mobil 1, but I am sure any other top synthetic is comparable. As far as oil filter, I use purolator pure one #pl14610. So buy your Mobil 1 at walmart (3x $6) +$7 filter,= $25 oil change.
I good friend of mine used to be a chemical engineer for the Mobil 1 division of Exxon. After hearing some of the tests they did, I am sold on Mobil 1, but I am sure any other top synthetic is comparable. As far as oil filter, I use purolator pure one #pl14610. So buy your Mobil 1 at walmart (3x $6) +$7 filter,= $25 oil change.
Just checked the manual and with the OEM Honda oil filter and oil this is what they say; REGULAR = EVERY 8,000 mi (12,800 km) or 12 months. That seems like A LOT of KMs to me.
Lots of opinions on oil - its probly hard to buy "bad" oil. I'm at Mobil 1 10w- 40 4T motorcycle oil, mostly because I can shoot over the the auto parts store and grab what I need. If Amsoil was convenient, I might go that way. There's quite a few Rotella fans here too.
I have an '01 with 100,000 mi. on it. I've used standard (dino) type oil from 4,000 mi. For my oil change last week I tried Shell Rotella T synthetic. From Walmart. About $3.50 a quart. (I've been using Honda oem filters the whole time). The bike's shifting feel has improved somewhat. For what it's worth.
That's the 5W40 stuff?
Sent from my Galaxy Nexus using Tapatalk 2
When I was there they only had 15w40. If winter were approaching I'd be looking for 10w/40. Although this past winter was Minnesota's mildest ever.
I use Rotella T Synthetic 5W40 ($26 5-Quart Jug at Wal-Mart) and a K&N filter. I like the K&N cause it has the nut on the end for a socket wrench (easy on/off) and is pre-drilled for safety wire (if you want or need that). About $40 gets me there.
I good friend of mine used to be a chemical engineer for the Mobil 1 division of Exxon. After hearing some of the tests they did, I am sold on Mobil 1, but I am sure any other top synthetic is comparable. As far as oil filter, I use purolator pure one #pl14610. So buy your Mobil 1 at walmart (3x $6) +$7 filter,= $25 oil change.
What Mobil 1 is it, the 10W40?
In the old days we called it 15w40 "gold cap". I haven't bought any lately, so I don't know if it still has the gold cap on it. It makes the bike shift a lot smoother than the OEM oil that my bike came with. So much smoother, in fact, that I never tried anything else after feeding it to my 2004 model the first time.
How the hell though are you supposed to get 8,000 mi (12,800 km) or 12 months out of OEM Oil and filter? According to the manual this is the case. Just do what your heart tells you.
I should clarify... Manual says change ever 12,000KM (or 12mths) with OEM Honda oil, but replace with OEM oil filter every 6,400KM. Why would ya drain the oil, replace oil filter and put old oil back in? Kinda doesn't make sense or maybe I'm reading it wrong.
[image: View Post]RodneyBR, on 19 April 2012 - 10:40 PM, said:
I should clarify... Manual says change ever 12,000KM (or 12mths) with OEM Honda oil, but replace with OEM oil filter every 6,400KM. Why would ya drain the oil, replace oil filter and put old oil back in? Kinda doesn't make sense or maybe I'm reading it wrong. Technically the oil filter is high enough that you can change it without having to drain the oil, which I only mention in case someone wanted to change their filter on the road and didn't have fresh oil with them.
Also when you clog up a filter the oil will go around and not get filted while also slowing down the flow, so it would be a good thing to change the filter if you're going to run the same oil for 8000 miles or +.
I change mine every 4000 and the filter each time.
I thought your local shop was charging a pretty penny for that filter, then I realized you are in Canada.
anyway, I let the transmission tell me when to change the oil. Current batch of Honda HP4 10W40 has been in there 3800 and is doing pretty good but getting swapped before a trip to the track next week. Think I'll try a motul oil next. I like honda filters, cut one open years ago, it seemed well made.
Well, I bought a cheaper aftermarket oil filter when changing my oil.
Cleaned the mating surface, thin film on the rubber ring, hand tight fit
So far so good, rode some 500kms, no worries, chuffed at doing my own maintenance, parked her up for the winter.
We did get a few nights where is would be at least -10 Celdius in the shed.
Took the bike out in spring and noticed that my rear wanted to break out on occasion.
WTF?
Pulled over to see my rear tyre having an oil film and yes, the filter was weeping oil....
Gave it an extra hard turn to tighten it but that only made matters worse...
so either
Operator error, filter not installed properly
Crap rubber oil seal
Stuffed a bunch of tissues in between oil pan and header to catch drippong oil and carefully rode to the dealer (where I had not purchased the materials from), he looked at it, said "ah non OEM filter", cleaned the rear tyre, fitted a new filter, added .4 litre of oil, charged 30 euro. Me happy and an inexpensive lesson learned.....
[image: View Post]RodneyBR, on 19 April 2012 - 10:40 PM, said:
I should clarify... Manual says change ever 12,000KM (or 12mths) with OEM Honda oil, but replace with OEM oil filter every 6,400KM. Why would ya drain the oil, replace oil filter and put old oil back in? Kinda doesn't make sense or maybe I'm reading it wrong.
The 2002-2007 Honda manual I have doesn't say that. My manual says you change the oil initially at 600 miles and then every 8,000 miles. It says you change the oil filter initially at 600 miles or 1 month, and then every 8,000 miles or 12 months. Therefore, there is a perfectly acceptable OEM schedule for changing the oil AND filter every 8,000 miles, as long as you are riding 8,000 miles in a 12-month period.
I suppose if you are riding less than 8,000 miles a year, you could get out of sync and change oil filter more often than your oil, but as you point out, I don't know why you would do that, from a practicality standpoint. In that case, I'd just change both every 12 months.
As a point of clarification, the manual I have says the recommended oil is Honda GN-4 or equivalent and never says you must use OEM oil (or an OEM oil filter) and in any case, there certainly isn't a different schedule in the manual for one brand over another.
[image: View Post]RodneyBR, on 19 April 2012 - 09:44 PM, said:
How the hell though are you supposed to get 8,000 mi (12,800 km) or 12 months out of OEM Oil and filter? According to the manual this is the case.
Why do some people find this so hard to believe?
I've always used Rotella 5w-40 T6 full synthetic in both my bikes and my cages. Where are you getting a 5qt/L jug? The ones I get at Walmart here in Colorado are only 4qt.jugs ($21.36 + tax last week when I bought some). I was using the Super Tech filters in all my vehicles, until I walked into Walmart a month or so ago and they no longer carry them. I picked up a Pure One and I'm going to give that a try today, when I change my oil.
[image: View Post]clwesel, on 20 April 2012 - 08:57 AM, said:
I've always used Rotella 5w-40 T6 full synthetic in both my bikes and my cages. Where are you getting a 5qt/L jug? The ones I get at Walmart here in Colorado are only 4qt.jugs ($21.36 + tax last week when I bought some). I was using the Super Tech filters in all my vehicles, until I walked into Walmart a month or so ago and they no longer carry them. I picked up a Pure One and I'm going to give that a try today, when I change my oil.
Walmart here in Canada carries the T6 15W30, but does carry the SuperTech filter, only Fram and I won't be using a Fram. I'll probably go with an OEM oil filter since not a lot options here in Canada.
I usually just use the used oil that I drained out of my diesel truck on it's last oil change. But it has the slight smell of diesel fuel to it, so I think it might help clean the inside of the engine more than the new clean oil. And I run the oil in my truck for about 8-10K before it goes in the bike.
[image: View Post]RodneyBR, on 20 April 2012 - 10:13 AM, said:
Walmart here in Canada carries the T6 15W30, but does carry the SuperTech filter, only Fram and I won't be using a Fram. I'll probably go with an OEM oil filter since not a lot options here in Canada. Check out the SEARCH function some time! There's and "OFFICIAL OIL THREAD" and one on Filters! :ph34r:
If you read ANY of the test data out there you would NOT run Honda Oil or Filters as both test out on the Low end of any research, but hey like many HD owners if it Say's HD/Honda on it they buy it! Mobil 1, Rotella T6, or Amzoil are all it the top(Full Syn) of oil. The SuperTech WalMart filter is rated as one of the best and is made by a name brand supplier.
The Oil Company's have done an Excellent Brainwashing Ad Champion convincing most of the public that they need to Change their Oil every 3k miles! The ONLY people gaining from this concept is the Oil Company's Profit margin. Honda say run their Crap oil for at least 8000 miles between changes, but the Oil Company's have you believing that your bike/car will Blow Up using a far superior Full syn oil like I mentioned if you go over 3K. That make sense!!! :huh:
Ditto, to those of you that use the Purolator PureOne filter (PL14612) $6-7.
I was looking for a larger filtering surface area than the OEM filter (have read
some unfavorable reviews about Hondas filter). On oil, I use Castrol Actevo
X-TRA 4T SAE 10W-40 ($6/quart, partial synthetic) every 3,000 miles. I'd probably run
it for a longer duration if it didn't lubricate the transmission as well as the crankcase.
I cannot speak for Honda motorcycle oil filters, but the Honda auto oil filters
are merely a Fram oil filter painted blue rather than Fram orange. My friend
is the plant manager of the Fram oil filter plant in Toledo (Maumee), Ohio.
Kevin in ATL
2005, VFR800A ( ownership made possible by research of RollinAgain)
Father retired from Mobil Oil
If any of you wanted to have the oil in your bike tested to determine how your oil and engine
are wearing I would recommend www.blackstone-labs.com service to you ($20 +/-) I have used
their service for my autos many times in the past and am considering it for my bike. This service
was used routinely with my father's Mobil Oil company cars.
Kevin,
Yep, sure do! In fact, we've seen over 50 different samples from a bunch of
VFR 800 engines, so we have good, solid averages telling us what this type
of engine should look like. We can tell you if yours is wearing better or
worse than a typical engine of that kind, as well as if there are any
harmful contaminants or other issues developing.
Hope that helps. Let me know if there's anything else we can do for you.
Thanks!
Travis Heffelfinger
Blackstone Laboratories
416 E. Pettit Ave.
Fort Wayne, IN 46806
260-744-2380
www.blackstone-labs.com
Geeze,....an oil/filter thread.....
I guess I might as well jump in...
You guys remember that Honda made the filters samller and specified them for pretty much all their bikes a few years ago right?
Did anyone do more oil changes because of that, as I suspect the smaller the filter, the less filter media area there is and it will get dirty quicker than it used to before the "shrinkage" by Honda.
The present filters now look so puny. the previous one wasn't that big to start with.
I think Honda just wanted more Warehouse space and bumped off all the different filters for the different bikes and came up withthe smaller usinversal one.
[image: View Post]hondalover, on 20 April 2012 - 10:18 AM, said:
I usually just use the used oil that I drained out of my diesel truck on it's last oil change. But it has the slight smell of diesel fuel to it, so I think it might help clean the inside of the engine more than the new clean oil. And I run the oil in my truck for about 8-10K before it goes in the bike.
I'm so dumb that I don't know if you're joking or not. :unsure:
[image: View Post]Rich, on 21 April 2012 - 07:01 AM, said:
[image: View Post]hondalover, on 20 April 2012 - 10:18 AM, said:
I usually just use the used oil that I drained out of my diesel truck on it's last oil change. But it has the slight smell of diesel fuel to it, so I think it might help clean the inside of the engine more than the new clean oil. And I run the oil in my truck for about 8-10K before it goes in the bike.
I'm so dumb that I don't know if you're joking or not. :unsure:
Since you brought it up, I wouldn't say you're dumb for questioning him. I'm sure there are ppl that may do that for real, we just don't know if he's one of them. :rolleyes:
[image: View Post]Monk, on 21 April 2012 - 09:32 AM, said:
[image: View Post]Rich, on 21 April 2012 - 07:01 AM, said:
[image: View Post]hondalover, on 20 April 2012 - 10:18 AM, said:
I usually just use the used oil that I drained out of my diesel truck on it's last oil change. But it has the slight smell of diesel fuel to it, so I think it might help clean the inside of the engine more than the new clean oil. And I run the oil in my truck for about 8-10K before it goes in the bike.
I'm so dumb that I don't know if you're joking or not. :unsure:
Since you brought it up, I wouldn't say you're dumb for questioning him. I'm sure there are ppl that may do that for real, we just don't know if he's one of them. :rolleyes:
I'm not a rich man, so I try and save money where I can. I've used diesel fuel to clean parts before, so I thought the slight amount of diesel in the oil would help keep the inside of my engine clean. Please let me know if I've done wrong. I don't want to harm my bike, but I see people spending like $6/quart on oil, and this oil is free. In addition to that, since I'm running a cleaning type oil, I only change my filter every other oil change to help save on the cost.
[image: View Post]hondalover, on 21 April 2012 - 11:57 AM, said:
I'm not a rich man, so I try and save money where I can. I've used diesel fuel to clean parts before, so I thought the slight amount of diesel in the oil would help keep the inside of my engine clean. Please let me know if I've done wrong. I don't want to harm my bike, but I see people spending like $6/quart on oil, and this oil is free. In addition to that, since I'm running a cleaning type oil, I only change my filter every other oil change to help save on the cost.
This is only my opinion, but that is dirty, used-up oil and has no business being re-used. Would you wash your face using the turd of a guy who ate soap? Because that's what the supposed benefit of diesel fuel in used oil sounds like to me.
I posted the OEM oil and filter schedule in a previous post, and can't tell if you're following it since it is based on mileage. But it says nothing about changing the interval due to "cleaning type" oils or diesel fuel as an additive. Take that how you wish.
Anyway, $6 a quart on oil is nothing. Many people seem to be spending double that, and from what I can tell a lot of people don't even trust the OEM schedule to be strict enough. You might be the first person I've come across that went the opposite way. Good luck with it.
[image: View Post]hondalover, on 21 April 2012 - 11:57 AM, said:
[image: View Post]Monk, on 21 April 2012 - 09:32 AM, said:
[image: View Post]Rich, on 21 April 2012 - 07:01 AM, said:
[image: View Post]hondalover, on 20 April 2012 - 10:18 AM, said:
I usually just use the used oil that I drained out of my diesel truck on it's last oil change. But it has the slight smell of diesel fuel to it, so I think it might help clean the inside of the engine more than the new clean oil. And I run the oil in my truck for about 8-10K before it goes in the bike.
I'm so dumb that I don't know if you're joking or not. :unsure:
Since you brought it up, I wouldn't say you're dumb for questioning him. I'm sure there are ppl that may do that for real, we just don't know if he's one of them. :rolleyes:
I'm not a rich man, so I try and save money where I can. I've used diesel fuel to clean parts before, so I thought the slight amount of diesel in the oil would help keep the inside of my engine clean. Please let me know if I've done wrong. I don't want to harm my bike, but I see people spending like $6/quart on oil, and this oil is free. In addition to that, since I'm running a cleaning type oil, I only change my filter every other oil change to help save on the cost.
My question is..... If the oil isn't good enough to be left in your truck, then why is it good enough to put the old oil in your bike?
[image: View Post]KevininAtlanta, on 20 April 2012 - 04:13 PM, said:
If any of you wanted to have the oil in your bike tested to determine how your oil and engine
are wearing I would recommend www.blackstone-labs.com service to you ($20 +/-) I have used
their service for my autos many times in the past and am considering it for my bike. This service
was used routinely with my father's Mobil Oil company cars.
Kevin,
Yep, sure do! In fact, we've seen over 50 different samples from a bunch of
VFR 800 engines, so we have good, solid averages telling us what this type
of engine should look like. We can tell you if yours is wearing better or
worse than a typical engine of that kind, as well as if there are any
harmful contaminants or other issues developing.
Hope that helps. Let me know if there's anything else we can do for you.
Thanks!
Travis Heffelfinger
Blackstone Laboratories
416 E. Pettit Ave.
Fort Wayne, IN 46806
260-744-2380
www.blackstone-labs.com
Classic bit of bad timing, as I changed and discarded my oil yesterday before reading this...
Oh well, I ordered a free sampling kit for the next time.
[image: View Post]carlitos92, on 21 April 2012 - 12:07 PM, said:
[image: View Post]hondalover, on 21 April 2012 - 11:57 AM, said:
I'm not a rich man, so I try and save money where I can. I've used diesel fuel to clean parts before, so I thought the slight amount of diesel in the oil would help keep the inside of my engine clean. Please let me know if I've done wrong. I don't want to harm my bike, but I see people spending like $6/quart on oil, and this oil is free. In addition to that, since I'm running a cleaning type oil, I only change my filter every other oil change to help save on the cost.
This is only my opinion, but that is dirty, used-up oil and has no business being re-used. Would you wash your face using the turd of a guy who ate soap? Because that's what the supposed benefit of diesel fuel in used oil sounds like to me.
I
LOL!!!!!!!!! That cracked me up
But once these motors get 25 or 30,000 miles, the filters run very clean if you keep the oil changed regularly. I maybe do 6 or 7 oil changes during a year on 1 or 2 filters. Its a special ocasion for me the yank the fairing to replace the filter. I think my last oil filter I changed had maybe 12,000 miles on it.
I'm not changing the oil in my truck because it's worn out. I change the truck oil when the bike oil needs changed. So what you all are saying is I should just use a newer oil and add the diesel fuel for the cleaning properties that it carries?
[image: View Post]hondalover, on 21 April 2012 - 01:58 PM, said:
I'm not changing the oil in my truck because it's worn out. I change the truck oil when the bike oil needs changed. So what you all are saying is I should just use a newer oil and add the diesel fuel for the cleaning properties that it carries?
If you use new oil, it has detergents in it already. All diesel is doing is thinning the oil out.
Again, I've never seen any recommendations from Honda regarding doing this anyway. Is there something going on with the bike that's convinced you have to add something to the oil?
[image: View Post]hondalover, on 21 April 2012 - 01:58 PM, said:
I'm not changing the oil in my truck because it's worn out. I change the truck oil when the bike oil needs changed. So what you all are saying is I should just use a newer oil and add the diesel fuel for the cleaning properties that it carries?
If I were to follow Honda's recommendations, I would have checked my valves twice by now. But instead I just choose to use my sick sense of humor (not my used truck oil) on fellow VFRDers. I've used Mobil 1 with a K&N filter for the last 30k. No VFRs were harmed in the making of this hoax. And I also don't wash my face with a turd, but that was a pretty funny analogy. And Monk, I do use Mobil 1, but I drink water out of the faucet, or the garden hose if that's closer. I just wanted to bring in a little something different to another oil thread.
Mike (hondalover) is lying through his teeth on the diesel truck oil. But I can guarantee you that neither him or I have repacked wheel bearings since this was filmed. (2009)
I guess what I am aiming at saying is that modern lubricants are not at all what your Father or Grandfather had to deal with.
I had opportunity (though my work) to talk with a Mobil lubrication engineer that was on the team involved in getting Mobil 1 spec'd to be the oil of choice for Corvette. There were three Mobil engineers at the meeting (we were having trouble with a large worm drive gear spalling out chunks of the teeth due to an incorrecct additive package provided by another oil company), and all three engineers said that every vehicle on the road is getting it's oil changed before the optimum point. Now, determining the "optimum point" (as described by them) involved a viscosity measuring device (a sort of ramped funnel), a stopwatch and multiple filters of decreasing porosity. Of course none of us are going to do that, and none of us are aiming for changing out at the "perfect point". I suspect we're all aiming at changing before the oil starts to decline in it's protection.
I can't give you the answer to when that point is. It would, of course, depend on conditions and driving style. But I can tell you that the engineer that was on the spec team for the Corvette package said that Mobil's Corvette had over 15,000 miles on the Mobil 1 in it's crankcase and was still not in "need" of a change. We were told that the Corvette team at Chevrolet ultimately did not take Mobil's advice on oil change intervals because they felt that the general public would not be comfortable heeding the advice. (thus the mindset continues, my opinion)
Carlitos almost killed me with the "Would you wash your face using the turd of a guy who ate soap?" comment. Did he also eat an exfoliant?
[image: View Post]hondalover, on 21 April 2012 - 03:53 PM, said:
If I were to follow Honda's recommendations, I would have checked my valves twice by now. But instead I just choose to use my sick sense of humor (not my used truck oil) on fellow VFRDers. I've used Mobil 1 with a K&N filter for the last 30k. No VFRs were harmed in the making of this hoax. And I also don't wash my face with a turd, but that was a pretty funny analogy. And Monk, I do use Mobil 1, but I drink water out of the faucet, or the garden hose if that's closer. I just wanted to bring in a little something different to another oil thread.
So you were joking? Crap, I just got done adding a couple of ounces of deisel fuel to my oil. I thought you were really on to something. :sad:
[image: View Post]hondalover, on 21 April 2012 - 03:53 PM, said:
If I were to follow Honda's recommendations, I would have checked my valves twice by now. But instead I just choose to use my sick sense of humor (not my used truck oil) on fellow VFRDers. I've used Mobil 1 with a K&N filter for the last 30k. No VFRs were harmed in the making of this hoax. And I also don't wash my face with a turd, but that was a pretty funny analogy. And Monk, I do use Mobil 1, but I drink water out of the faucet, or the garden hose if that's closer. I just wanted to bring in a little something different to another oil thread.
Definitely different. I know there really are people that stupid though, because I've met them. I suppose to stay more positive, I should have applauded the in-house recycling effort. :wink:
Anyway, I'm not sure neglecting valves is quite along the same lines as re-using motor oil, but I've intentionally missed a couple of valve checks myself. I'm waiting to see when BR's bike blows up, and then I will say "Yep, it's time to go get my valves looked at." :ph34r:
I would suggest that Carlitos add the "Would you wash your face using the turd of a guy who ate soap?" quote to his tag-line. That is one of the greatest all time quotes that I've ever seen on VFRD. I would own that one proudly. I'd bet you could sell shirts with that on it.
That's why it was somewhat believable, we all know people with their own unique "quirks" whether it be oil, house maintenance, health care, cooking or whatever.
[image: View Post]Lee 2002, on 21 April 2012 - 05:17 PM, said:
I would suggest that Carlitos add the "Would you wash your face using the turd of a guy who ate soap?" quote to his tag-line.
:fing02: :+1: :+1: :+1: :+1:
[image: View Post]carlitos92, on 21 April 2012 - 05:05 PM, said:
Anyway, I'm not sure neglecting valves is quite along the same lines as re-using motor oil, but I've intentionally missed a couple of valve checks myself. I'm waiting to see when BR's bike blows up, and then I will say "Yep, it's time to go get my valves looked at." :ph34r:
I'm only at 92,000 miles and no turd on my face yet! :tongue:
I just got AMSOIL full synthetic from my buddy.
I got four quarts at $8.60 each.
MOBIL 1 at the parts store is $10.
Filter was $13.20.
They claim 98% effeciency at 15 microns.
http://www.scottsonl....php?PartType=3
I really wanted to try the SCOTTS Stainless Steel Reusable.
Suppose to be superior filtering, and you never have to buy another filter & has a magnet.
Price though $140 (OUCH!!!)
Dont ever have to buy a filter again though.
But as I kept reading, it said down to 35 microns.
The AMSOIL filter is down to 15 microns, so ...
MOTORCYCLIST magazine seems to run synthetics in their long term testbikes, for better performance/shifting.
( From AMSOIL website )
This will be my first oil change with AMSOIL & Synthetic, so ...
AMSOIL FILTERS
Filters are recommended for 25,000 miles/one year, whichever comes first, in normal service
or 15,000 miles/one year, whichever comes first, in severe service.
OIL - SERVICE LIFE
For “on-road” use in engines and transmissions, change AMSOIL MCF and AMSOIL engine oil filter
at twice the motorcycle manufacturer change interval or one year, whichever comes first.
I think I'll be chuckling for weeks over this thread. I have not looked back to see but would not be surprised if hondalover added his piece on April 1. Seems to have fooled a lot of peeps. Had me going. Now I'll have to change out my newly add old diesel oil. Damm. Do I need a new filter also? And has anyone checked out whether Honda brand filters filter out turds? With soap in them?
[image: View Post]PanzerAstridBears, on 21 April 2012 - 11:45 PM, said:
( From AMSOIL website )
This will be my first oil change with AMSOIL & Synthetic, so ...
AMSOIL FILTERS
Filters are recommended for 25,000 miles/one year, whichever comes first, in normal service
or 15,000 miles/one year, whichever comes first, in severe service.
OIL - SERVICE LIFE
For “on-road” use in engines and transmissions, change AMSOIL MCF and AMSOIL engine oil filter
at twice the motorcycle manufacturer change interval or one year, whichever comes first.
I'd take their marketing material with a grain of salt , No matter the oil, both synthethic and cheap dino can be subjected to contaminant which neither oils really like. Contaminant includes shear, fuel dilution and other wear metals. A cam chain is a conveyor belt straight from your lower casing, to your cam lobes with unfiltered oil.
My testing of Rotella 5w40 (syn) against 15w40 Amsoil, did show the amsoil held up double the milege , and produced identical wear numbers and oil degrade in that time. So a bottle of rotella cost about $6, and a bottle of amsoil 15w40 about $10, yet yields double the milege. I think the Amsoil gets the nod.
[image: View Post]PACIFICMAN, on 21 April 2012 - 10:37 PM, said:
"BTW looks like Supertech filters(made by Champion) will no longer be produced or carried by WalMart. "
Bailey, Where did you learn this? I have been using the SuperTech filters and so far, so good. I guess I will go and try to stock up.
I use Castrol 10/40 out of old habit, the seems to work fine as well with 3 to 4000 mile changes and the filter every third change.
This week at my local WalMart. There were Zero Supertech filters out so i asked about them and they said they were no longer going to carry them and had added some other line. Seemed like they only had 5 lines of Fram and Puralator on the shelf.
[image: View Post]Monk, on 21 April 2012 - 10:54 PM, said:
So...... What's the popular opinion on which is more important to change, Oil or filter?
I could have sworn I read somewhere that filters used a second time filter better than brand new filters. Maybe a false memory. I've always changed filters with the oil.
[image: View Post]Rich, on 22 April 2012 - 10:42 AM, said:
[image: View Post]Monk, on 21 April 2012 - 10:54 PM, said:
So...... What's the popular opinion on which is more important to change, Oil or filter?
I could have sworn I read somewhere that filters used a second time filter better than brand new filters. Maybe a false memory. I've always changed filters with the oil.
That's what I do, but some ppl are "saying" they don't change the filter every time....... I was just wondering if there are more ppl who think that's the way to go.
I can't see where an old filter is going to work better, except that less stuff will get though including the oil as well. I have heard where a cloth airfilter is better with some use though.
Theory: Judging by the amout of "passion" and "loyality", the length of these oil threads, and the divergent opinions on the subject, I'd suggest we may be victims of the marketers hype. (Small Suprise There.) Manufactures recommend 8,000 mile / once a year oil changes. I read of lots of every 3,xxx" or 4,xxx mile changers. Is that really necessary? It does not make financial sense to me. There are environmental reasons to make oil changes less often also.
[image: View Post]MaxSwell, on 22 April 2012 - 04:48 PM, said:
Manufactures recommend 8,000 mile / once a year oil changes. I read of lots of every 3,xxx" or 4,xxx mile changers. Is that really necessary? It does not make financial sense to me.
[image: View Post]Lee 2002, on 21 April 2012 - 04:36 PM, said:
..... I can tell you that the engineer that was on the spec team for the Corvette package said that Mobil's Corvette had over 15,000 miles on the Mobil 1 in it's crankcase and was still not in "need" of a change. We were told that the Corvette team at Chevrolet ultimately did not take Mobil's advice on oil change intervals because they felt that the general public would not be comfortable heeding the advice. (thus the mindset continues, my opinion)
We were told that Mobil was recommending change intervals above 10,000 miles to Chevrolet.
Honda recommends 8,000 mile and 6 th gear by 35 mph, that warrants their recommend. You'll find that if the VFR was spec'd for performance use, that recommend would be quite different. So if you ride the vfr like a 60 year old Goldwinger as honda expects, then Im sure 8,000 intervals would work okay.
MY chevrolet Colorado, has automatic oill change intervals depending on use. I think sometimes it doesnt alert till around 8 to 10,000 miles. Ive never followed it, I just have to reset it periodically when it comes on.
Filters, filter dirty oil, so if the oil is deterorated to the point it contaminates the filter, naturally you'd want to replace both. I can only say Ive taken filters apart on a few bikes, under 10,000 miles, that where most the metal is seen, after that the filters run fairly clean unless somethings wrong.
I averaged around 4,000-4,500 miles because that's around the time the shifting started getting clunky on the old 2004. Fresh Mobil 1 synth always made it shift smooth and quiet again. If I went past that mileage due to whatever circumstances, I didn't worry because of the Honda recommendation and the quality oil used...I just had to put up with the clunky shifting for a little while.
End of thread · 67 posts recoveredWayback Machine snapshot 8 Jun 2012