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Clutch Problem Solved

7 posts Started 20 May 2012 Last recovered post 21 May 2012 Wayback Machine snapshot 6 Jun 2012

#1
I had been having issues with my clutch for a long time. It was fine below 3,000 rpms, but would turn into an on off switch above that. Today I put in Barnett springs and sanded down all the rough edges on both the teeth of the steels and friction plates. It took all day, but seems to have solved the problem. I can now rev the bike to 5 or 6 grand and slowly feed out the clutch and take off smoothly, with no abrupt engagement. Well worth the effort and i wish i would have done it sooner. I can't watch to hit the track next week and finally be able to launch above 3,000!
#2
Or just run OEM parts, I have 100,000 mile on oem clutch, works fine. Id never buy an aftermarket clutch too many weird issues.
#3
I'm running Ferodo clutch plates and EBC springs in my bike and they are working absolutely great. My OEM clutch ran 70,000 km, and was still working OK, but I swapped it out just as a preventative measure, and I was removing the cover anyhow to do the clear clutch mod, so I only wanted to open the engine once.
#4

[image: View Post]spud786, on 20 May 2012 - 08:28 AM, said:

Or just run OEM parts, I have 100,000 mile on oem clutch, works fine. Id never buy an aftermarket clutch too many weird issues.

this was the oem clutch that was giving me trouble. since day one...
#5

[image: View Post]Veefer800Canuck, on 20 May 2012 - 09:48 AM, said:

I'm running Ferodo clutch plates and EBC springs in my bike and they are working absolutely great. My OEM clutch ran 70,000 km, and was still working OK, but I swapped it out just as a preventative measure, and I was removing the cover anyhow to do the clear clutch mod, so I only wanted to open the engine once.

how is the high rpm modulation on that set up? can you rev it up past 6000 and let it out smoothly from a stop?
#6

[image: View Post]CandyRedRC46, on 20 May 2012 - 11:55 AM, said:

[image: View Post]spud786, on 20 May 2012 - 08:28 AM, said:

Or just run OEM parts, I have 100,000 mile on oem clutch, works fine. Id never buy an aftermarket clutch too many weird issues.

this was the oem clutch that was giving me trouble. since day one...


Yeah I dont know why the oem gave trouble, Ive never had issue with oem clutches longevity wise, even 4 or 5 years forceslipping the clutch out of every corner. Assuming they function right to begin with, clean oil is all they require. But no issue with my oem vfr clutch.

I did try and run steel plates on a bike designed for aluminum plates, and the clutch faded, and changed lever position when it got hot, in that case, Id say the steel was retaining too much heat, over the aluminum plates.
#7

[image: View Post]CandyRedRC46, on 20 May 2012 - 11:58 AM, said:

[image: View Post]Veefer800Canuck, on 20 May 2012 - 09:48 AM, said:

I'm running Ferodo clutch plates and EBC springs in my bike and they are working absolutely great. My OEM clutch ran 70,000 km, and was still working OK, but I swapped it out just as a preventative measure, and I was removing the cover anyhow to do the clear clutch mod, so I only wanted to open the engine once.

how is the high rpm modulation on that set up? can you rev it up past 6000 and let it out smoothly from a stop?

I'll try it and see. I normally don't do drag race style starts, but I certainly can. I'll have the bike out this week and let you know.
End of thread · 7 posts recovered Wayback Machine snapshot 6 Jun 2012