6th Gen PAIR Valve Removal

I finally got around to installing the A&A Performance PAIR valve block-off plates on my 6th Gen. Thanks to Dan for a great product and install instructions.

I’ll say upfront – this is not a how-to guide but more of a “thank you note” to VFRD. I’m “OK” with a wrench but my mechanical skills go back more into the ‘60’s Muscle car era where everything was pretty basic and bullet proof. This FI, electronic, smog-ridden, aluminum stuff sort of intimidates me when it comes to anything more than basic maintenance. So THANK YOU to VFRD for all the info and the encouragement to take matters into my own hands. The CULPRIT....
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I had pretty much thought this would take a couple evenings to get done and had settled with the fact that I’d not ride for a week or so while I fit it into my normal schedule. Truth is.. it took only a couple hours and 99% of you guys could do this in under 30 minutes.

Two tricky spots for me; 1) getting the gas tank off by myself – sort of a juggling act. Thanks to VFRD I rode the day before and burned most of the fuel out so the tank was lighter and easier to handle. And I  found a thread somewhere that described the process of turning the tank upside down for final disconnect that was a huge help. Still a juggle – but really not bad at all. And 2) the silly reed valves themselves. Getting those little screws backed out was impossible. I ended up using a dremel to cut the backside of the screw off and then the rest of it backed out nicely with a screwdriver. So I did have to sacrifice four screws.
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After removing the reed valves, I removed all the plumbing, solenoid valve, tubing, etc. Taped off the electrical feed to keep it clean.

Then the fun part; the plates go in beautifully. It’s really a shame that these are hidden under other components because they are wonderfully machined and finished by A&A.
[image: Pair Valve 009 small.jpg]

While I was in there I replaced the air filter with the OEM part. I also disconnected and plugged the Flapper vacuum line, and removed the Snorkel. Buttoned it all up.
[image: Pair Valve 012 small.jpg]

Started right up. But idle was set too low. I twisted that up a notch and she ran very nicely but no difference here other than a noisier air intake. BUT - I rode it to work on Monday and right away noticed a much smoother throttle on/off transition. I still have a bit of jerkiness – but nowhere near as much and the improvement is very noticeable in cross town traffic where I’m lugging around in lower revs.
[image: Pair Valve 001 small.jpg]

No good deed goes without reward…. Three cheers to A&A.. !
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THIS IS A GREAT MOD. Next up DynoJet PC.

Again – my thanks to all the great info and support offered here on VRFD.
Ernie

nice report and pix...and that beer in the last pix is excellent, I had some a couple of weeks ago.

Maybe you can help me. I  bought a set of generic block off plates online. I have the tank completely off and took the little valves and screens off the top of each valve cover. THen put the new plates on with a little gasket maker. My instructions didn't say to leave the little strainer screens in. That looks like that's what you ended up doing?


So now what? What all to I remove and take off now? I have the following pic showing where my finger and thumb are pointing. What are they and what do I do with them? My middle finger is pointing to a little plug. Do I simply remove everything and leave that plug there with nothing attached to it? Also, is there an evaporative cannister? If so, I'm not seeing it. Other than a little black cannister thing on the front of the airbox.
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Do I do anything with this little black cannister on the front of the airbox? Or any of the other hoses?
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If you have the pair valve plates in place - then you have removed the vacuum housings that covered the pair valves. The vacuum lines that go to those housing can be removed (or left in place as inoperable). Those vacuum lines were connected to your air filter housing. That needs to be plugged.  I have not removed my evap canister but I have not read any reason not to. Others can chime in.

Basically I  removed the housing over each pair valve (2 of them - 1 each head), and the large vacuum lines that lead to them, and the pair valve solenoid which is a valve that actuates both vacuum lines. Then plugged the fitting on the air box.

I would take some pictures but I'm o the road - no not riding - for the next week or so.

Ernie

To ease removal of the gas tank and avoid spilling fuel, install one of these quick disconnects on the return line. They come in 1/4" and 5/16".  Still on my to do list: https://www.denniski....prd/180692.sku

Michaelangelo - how did it go? Did you get it all buttoned up and back onthe road? Ernie

Great post Ernie.  I have an 07 RWB also and want to do the same to my bike to smooth out the low rpm jerkiness around town.  This bike does a great job of making me feel like a new rider at low speeds around town. Very annoying.  

Where did you get the PAIR block off plates?  You mentioned A & A performance.  Do you know how to reach them? I like the look of those.

Tanks!

Delta, here is the link to their site. http://www.aaperf.com/products.html

You will need to email them and see if they still stock them.

Ernie

Put a marble in each reed-tube and it's blocked too, costs just 2 cents tops :cheerleader:

No need to buy expensive plates.

I installed my A&A block off plates along with the Fuel Pressure Regulator and PC5.  I scored the block off plates and FPR from other members in the classified section that bought them and never installed (thanks again VFRD, love this site!)  Wow what a difference that all makes.  The VTEC transition is really smooth now (barely noticable other than you can audibly hear the other valves opening).  No lurch, and very smooth at lower rpms.  I used to feel like a new rider when I rode my VTEC especially at slower speeds.  The bike fuels as it should have from the factory.  And I still get 200 miles plus out of a tank of gas so fuel economy did not suffer much.  For what I did give up in mileage, I gained in drivability.  I can now run the bike a gear or two higher thanks to the combo of the PAIR block off plates/ FPR and PC.

Valve pairing is just a thing to make the CO2-maffia happy but kills the ride.

I put marbles in my sons CBR1000RR the other day and the low RPM problem was gone too.

The pairing has no other use then make stupid politicians happy in thinking the bike produces less CO2, but it doesn't.

It fools the sniffer during the tests, that's all.

It doesn't matter what bike you have, removing flapper and valve-pairing makes them handle better, all of them.

That is what you get when stupid no brain people make green-laws :beatdeadhorse:

Thanks for the write up and pics, I'm thinking about doing this as well soon.

A quick question regarding the pics. When I remove my airbox, there was some foam piece at the front that was in-between the frame and the front of the airbox. It seemed like this would restrict the airflow to me, but I notice yours doesn't have this. 

Did you remove it, or was it just not there?