I have a few electrical questions. I saw the huge Electrical forum but none of what I saw appears to apply to my situation (and the thread is so darn long!).
TL;DR:
Connected a voltage monitor to the headlight fuse. During my commute it starts green, then eventually flashes red during. The monitor probably isn't attached in the best fashion. What's the best way to attach it and what's the deal with the voltage?
The background:
My battery died a few weeks ago so I picked up a new battery and a Heads Up voltage monitor by Signal Dynamics:
Flashing Green - Voltage Above 15.25 VDC Steady Green - 12.9 - 15.24 Steady Amber -12.6 - 12.8 Steady Red - 12.1 - 12.5 Flashing Red - Below 12 VDC
The way I have it installed is a bit wonky (and could be related to the problem I'm having): I opened up the right upper fairing to access the fuse box - pulled out the headlight fuse - put a wire where the fues goes - then pushed in the fuse. I realize this is far from optimal (there's worse!) but it works.
As I'm commuting to work the light will start green, then amber, then half way through the commute it will flashing red only while stopped (brake applied), then eventually flashing red even while riding. It's then very difficult to arm the alarm I assume because the voltage is so low.
Electrical modifications:
12v (cigarette plug): positive to the headlight fuse, negative to the battery.
Givi trunk with brake lights connected to the brake light wire.
Voltage monitor connected to the cigarette plug's wire.
Gorilla alarm.
The questions:
What's the best way to wire the 12 cigarette plug?
What's the best way to wire the voltage monitor?
Is there a way to resolve the low voltage or identify what's causing it?
You probly could stand to use a 3 way fuse box connected to the positive lead of the battery. - I think wiremybike sells them.
-- Your SD voltage light is less than desirable as a "watchdog" to keep track of voltage. The green range is too wide. The high end is near too much and the low end, you are in deep doo. Yet the light could be green the whole time. (Ideally you want 13s and 14s) If your riding and the light is steady amber, you're hosed.
At idle the charging system is really not working much and the bike is running mostly off the battery and thats why the red light is on. The charge system gets going over 1500 to 1900 or so.
Flashing red while riding? Oh, oh.....
- You really should buy a multimeter and do the basic voltage test at the battery at idle and 5000 rpm to get and idea where you are at.
btw - yeah, dont use the headlight fuse for power on that.
The best way to wire the cigarette plug is directly to the battery and use an automotive relay to switch it off when the ignition is off. I used the license plate light as the relay trigger.
The best way to monitor voltage is a digital gauge connected to the battery, switched with the relay. Monitoring the battery voltage is what is important. The voltage at other parts of the bike can vary.
For testing the battery must be fully charged. A battery tender works best. You need a multimeter to test the voltage at the battery at idle and at 5 k rpm. If it is low then it is a matter of isolating and testing the different components involved looking for things out of spec. The Honda Shop Manual (download from this site) has testing procedures and spec
Thanks for the info. I'll test the battery tonight with my multimeter and post the numbers.
I've been hesitant in picking up a relay because there are so many types with varying voltages and amperage. Can you make a suggestion as to which relay I should use?
High beams + brake lights + givi brake lights + flashers at idle: 13.5v
I inspected the accessory plug and it looks like I wired into the 10amp kickstand/tilt sensor fuse. I likely did this so if anything went awry no critical systems would be affected. Anywho, it appears that steady voltage from this fuse is unreliable.
After doing a bit of research I've come to the conclusion that this is the relay setup I need: