Pics Yamaha R1 Front End On My 2007

So i finally got around to doing the brake delink and USD Fork and Radial brakes conversion that I have been dreaming of for a long time. My bike is a 2007 non-abs model. I used a 2005 R1 forks, wheel and brakes, CBR929 triple trees and custom spacers. The brake delink was a pain to get the proportioning valves out from under the subframe, and the lower triple tree steering stops had to be about 50% ground away to get full range of motion, also the oil cooler mounts needed to be lowered out of the way. I have Dan Moto clip ons and they needed a lot of adjusting to make sure that they dont foul up on any of the fairings, as well as the throttle and brake lines (I have to steel braided lines coming off of a brembo radial master cylinder). Anyways here are some pics.

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looks like a great install. What colour is the front wheel and fender going to be?

Looks nice!  This is what I want to do next.  Who made your custom wheel spacers?  Any issues with brake disk/caliper alignment?

i am not sure about the wheel and fender color yet. honestly the color combo is growing on me. i was thinking about just painting the rear white and calling it a day. or maybe getting a carbon front fender. also i bought the complete swap from a fellow member on here who had a 4th gen, so the details are sparse. i can tell you it was a pain to figure out all the spacing so that the there was adequate caliper to disc clearance.

i just finished the rear brake situation a few minutes ago. i can confirm that the factory rear master cylinder works great with the factory rear caliper when delinked, but you must loop all 3 pistons together. the ratio is not favorable with only the 2 outer pistons, but is great with all three. also i can say for a fact that no extra brake line purchases are necessary. there was a loop left over from the factory front caliper link stuff and the line that went to the rear center piston from the proportioning valve is the perfect length to no run from the rear master cylinder to the outer 2 piston port of the rear caliper. THANKS HONDA! Im sure you planned that out for us! lol

you want a picture of the 10 pounds of shit in a box?  :goofy:

or the rear loop i just made?

i didnt take very many pictures along the way. it was more of a before and after thing.

Are you sure your front rotors are installed correctly? Looks like the bare metal (wheel) mating surface is facing out?

Busy  checking   the  rotors   ... 

R1  rotors

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Are you sure your front rotors are installed correctly? Looks like the bare metal (wheel) mating surface is facing out?

flipping the rotors gave some more clearance. not the best way of going about things, but it worked lol

I am not sure how i feel about putting washers in between the discs and the wheel.

the axle spacers are the same size.

as far as the rear brakes go, there were two lines originally running from the two proportioning valves under the seat, to the rear caliper. i kept the one line that ran to the center piston and moved it to the side pistons and the other end to the rear master. then i ran a double banjo bolt to run an additional 6 inch line from the 2 piston port to the center piston port.

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Thanks   and  the rotor's  are  almost  flat .

so does anyone want dibs on the left over factory stuff?

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Thanks   and  the rotor's  are  almost  flat .

okay. i dont know what to tell you. it helped.

PM  sent 

Man,  you  should  have  been  a  engineer.

Awesome  job  on  the  brakes  ...   

You  got  the  personal  messenger  humming   !!!!

pm sent.

thanks switch blade. i have a couple classes left and i will have my bachelor's degree in mechanical engineering.

I made these for my R1 front end conversion:

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The CBR triples space the forks at 214mm vs 210 on the R1, so I made 2x 2mm spacers for the rotors and 2x new wheel spacers (left on axle) that are 2mm wider than the originals (on right).

thats just too damn clever Seb.

Damn nice machining too.

lol where were you people when i was tying to figure this out?! lol

seb could you make me one of those rings please?

Nice job. Needs gold wheels.

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lol no

Are you sure your front rotors are installed correctly? Looks like the bare metal (wheel) mating surface is facing out?

flipping the rotors gave some more clearance. not the best way of going about things, but it worked lol

I am not sure how i feel about putting washers in between the discs and the wheel.

the axle spacers are the same size.

as far as the rear brakes go, there were two lines originally running from the two proportioning valves under the seat, to the rear caliper. i kept the one line that ran to the center piston and moved it to the side pistons and the other end to the rear master. then i ran a double banjo bolt to run an additional 6 inch line from the 2 piston port to the center piston port.

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Hi -- Just a couple notes for hashing... No doubt you have seen my delink work and the rear setup. Consider flipping the bridge hose up and out of the way. Hanging down is kinda tempting fate... --" Here break me."   (Check my gallery pics.)

 I didnt do any test rides before I setup my rear but by the calculator, the stocker m/c wasnt enuff. I modeled it against my stock 4th gen and then what a stock rc51 would be. So that is how I came up with the 14mm mc requirement.(It mimics the 4th gen rear.) Of course mine is a 5th gen and yours is the 6th so the caliper pistons and m/c may be different sizes. 

(Could I have the OEM lower triple and rotors?)

lol no

+1  things  that  make  you  go  brr ...

Those headers look great, who makes them?  Does your right foot heat up much?  The OEM headers + heatshield are an eyesore for sure.

The headers are from the limited run Two Brothers Racing full system that they made a few of like 10 years ago. They were nearly impossible to find and I paid a small fortune for them, even though they were in bad shape. Then I cut and merged the mid pipe to my Two Brothers slip on. After I had everything welded up I sent it all out to get ceramic coated. A lot of money, blood, sweat and tears was invested into that full system, but it was worth it. I haven't even had a custom dyno tune done yet and my trap speed went up from 122 mph to 126 mph. That is a huge power increase and both of those runs were during hot summer nights.

Anyways even catless and ceramic coated they still heat up your right foot. You want to not heat up your right foot, wear gear! lol

So something about this front end. I know I am going to get flamed hard for this, but when ever I get the front wheel off the ground, when I touch back down, no matter how softly I set it back down, it is like hitting a brick wall. I need to figure this out. It is really loud and feels awful, like I am slamming the bike back down, even though I am not. The factory front end did not do this. Maybe I need more spring rate, preload, compression or thicker fluid? I do not know. Everything feels good when driving normally, but come down easily off a wheelie and it sounds like I am bottoming out hard. The fork has racetec 1k springs in it. I weigh 165 fully geared and my vfr is about the same curb weight as the R1, or at least not that much more.

Check the tightness of your steering bearings and ease off the compression adjustment.

Okay sounds good. I have re-torqued the steering bearings once already and was going to do it again soon. They are still a tad loose. I just don't want to over torque anything, so I was doing it a little at a time. I have been tweaking all the little things and re-torquing all the bolts here and there everyday. Today I had to flip the two brake lines and adjust their angle on the master cylinder, then retorque all of the brake fittings a little and top off the brake fluid. Thanks for the help.

Also I have the forks all the way down in the triples (as in the front ride height is at its highest position), but I have hit the fender on the oil cooler already.

Are 1k racetec springs maybe a little too soft? Maybe I should put heavier viscosity fluid in the forks?

That doesn't sound right at all.

Support the front of the bike, undo the fork caps, and jack the front wheel up to simulate full compression. If you're hitting anything, you need to change your setup.

I don't know what your weight is, but 1kg springs are pretty darn stiff. I feel like I should ask how much fluid you have in your forks right now?

So put the bike in the air today and pulled off the forks. Pulled off the fork caps and guess what? The damping rods had come loose... Both of them! So that is why the front end was bottoming out and making loud banging noises and feelings when ever the front tire came off the ground and made contact again. The previous owner had probably just threaded them into the first couple turns just to make the sale, as doing it properly is nearly impossible with out the specific spring compressor and damping rod tool. It is my fault for not fully inspecting the forks before just slapping them on the bike, but man the previous owner was either a complete idiot or a complete scum bag, because he told me that he went through them before sending them out and specifically told me that he fastened the damping rods to the fork caps. Also they were less than half full of fluid, which was extremely dirty (PO said they only had 1000-2000 miles on them since assembly). This is all pretty troubling since the lowers were only being held on to the bike by the brake lines and fell off as soon as Pulled off the wheel and calipers. Anyways, I have had enough and I am going to drop the forks off at a shop tomorrow to have the forks properly assembled.

yeah the thought of my front tire in the air and the brake lines snapping and wheel falling off... no bueno

Oh wow! 

Im very glad you figured it out... and as quick as you did. 

And I personally think wheelies are a fun part of the motorcycling experience... as long as they aren't endangering others :) 

Just get rid of all the LBS ABS components. That's like 30 or 40 pounds worth of stuff.


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Well, I don't really want to spoil ABS on my VFR. It saved my life at least twice.

I just feel comfortable when OFF the ABS on my GS.