Starter Valve Syncing And Low Speed Throttle Response

Hi all

I've been working on how to get the low speed, throttle position from 0 to 4-5%, throttle response better on my 2010 VFR800 Vtec.

There is a huge post over on Bikers Oracle where one member has been saying for a long time that the flat syncing of the starter valves, as shown in the Gen 6 service manual is not correct and they should be synced similar to the Gen 5 and earlier VFR's.

This is where 2 starter valved are set at +10 mm/hg and the other adjustable one set at -10 mm/hg, hence staggering how the vales open in the early throttle opening (0 to 4% by what Honda UK have said).

I've been testing this theory over the past few weeks and changing the steps between the offsets until I've now got to about +/- 20mm/hg between them.

With the valves set like this, the low speed response is amazing.

I must say that I have a Rapid Bike 3 ECU fitted and have built a good map for it over time using a wideband O2 sensor and data logger, so I've been able to remove the 3000/4000 rpm stumble and lessen the Vtec kick in pretty much.

Back to the starter valves.

I've not stuck with the exact process that the Gen 5 uses and have set valve 1 at +20, and valves 2 and 3 at -20, with valve 4 (unadjustable) used as the datum at zero.

I feel that this gives a more varied throttle application off closed as the valves with a higher vacuum reading when synced will stay closed longer. So I think I get cylinders 2 and 3 applying power first, then number 4 kicks in, and lastly number 1. A much more staged application of power until you are at 4% throttle, then the butterflies take over.

What I can now do with the throttle, at no load in neutral, is bring the rpm up to 3000 and hold it, raise it to 3500 and hold it, drop it to 2500 and hold it and then go back to 3000. All quite fluidly.

In the past, when I tried the above, you could hold the 3000, raise it to 3500, but when trying to drop to 2500 the rpm would drop all the way and you couldn't get any smoothness.

It's completely different now. Rolling the throttle on thru a corner or round a roundabout is just soooo much smoother.

As the starters only affect the throttle from 0 to 4% on the tps, this seems to have no effect on power or cold starting, but it make a huge difference from a closed throttle.

Below is a photo of the end settings on my vacuum gauges as an example.

[image: post-25941-0-50025900-1399707226.jpg]

Interesting....

Nice !!

How did it feel when you set it like a 5th gen?

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This is excellent timing for your post, thank you. I just read yesterday or the day before about setting it up like a fifth gen, but I couldn't find the data about it.

I an definitely doing this this coming week and seeing what difference it makes. As I do not have a fuel controller, I am interested in how it affects it.

I know that disconnecting the PAIR valve electrical connection, pulling the vacuum off of the flapper valve and taking off the snorkel has helped a great deal. If this theory of yours plays out, this should make the last little bit of difference I need.

When set like the 5th Gen I feel there was an improvement definitely over all valves being set equal.

But the most improvement has come with what I'm running now.

Food for thought!

Phil

When you started how far out of sync were you from factory spec?

To be honest I didn't take much notice as the first time I synced them was after I did the valve clearances and I set them at that stage to flat as per the manual as I thought that was what they should be.

It's only after that, and chasing a tractable throttle response that I started looking at what earlier model did.

Back in the day I had a couple of VF750F's and being a Honda mechanic at that stage, I remember the tolerance for syncing the carbs was 60mm/hg. Of course being CV carbs you didn't suffer from the light switch effect of the FI systems we have today but 60mm is still 3 times the tolerance for the VFR.

Phil

I think you have a misconception about how the SV's work.

The throttle butterflies are not involved in this, thus when you open the throttle all throttle plates open at the same time, same rate as the rest. The SV's are a seperate air induction circuit for idle only.

That said the 5th gen uses a differential vacuum setting so that the intake & exhausts are in balance & it does make a huge difference to the throttle opening response & engine pickup when set correctly.

Doing the same on a 6th gen should assist in a smooth idle & transition to the throttle butterflies. But please note the 6th gen has differential length velocity stacks the may change some of the behaviour when refitted. The SV's don't draw air through these, as they use a seperate air intake per cylinder !

I'm sure the 6th gen manual does not say set level vacuum, it does say within +/- 10 or 20 mmHg, but does NOT prescribe which cylinders should be set to what setting, like the 5th gen one does !

Anyone that looks at the 5th gen settings, please note the reference cylinder has changed between the 5th & 6th gen, so adjust accordingly.

But good work that man :)

Yes you are right in what you outline but the SV's are in play until the throttle is about 4% open.

At that stage the butterflies overcome the volume of air coming in via the SV's, hence why they have the effect that they do in the transition from closed throttle to partial open.

Again you are right, the air path for the SV's is outside of the main throttle throats and the bell mouths do not have any impact on the air drawn in to the slow circuits controlled by the SV's.

The manual states a tolerance of 20mm/hg and says nothing regarding how this should be attained but I'm pretty sure most people have taken this to be "all the same" within the tolerance.

Basically, all I'm saying is that there is a co-relationship between how the SV's are set and how the throttle transitions from closed to partial throttle.

And what affect this has on tractability of the whole motorcycle.

I'm not saying this is the be all to end all, but it is worth investigating.

Cheers

Phil

I'm with you, I always found it strange that 6th & 5th had different setups ! :)

HighSideNZ, great post. I've been wondering how to sync the valves and from what I've read it seems the 5th generation set-up is the smoothest. What other configurations did you try and what were the results?

When I was experimenting I started with a standard flat sync, then when directly to the Gen 5 setup. Found a difference straight away.

Next I went to +/-15mm/hg using the same settings as per the Gen 5, as in what valves were set to what. Felt there was a bit more of an improvement.

Thought I'd keep going as it didn't seem to be having any detrimental effect.

So went up another 5mm and kept the same valve spacing's as before.

At 20mm I thought I'd try changing the valves around dependent upon the firing order.

This presented the best so far.

Phil

Found this thread on bikersoracle: http://www.bikersoracle.com/vfr/forum/showthread.php?t=44763&pp=15

They managed to get a translation of the japanese service manual:

The answer is................... from the Japanese manual..............

Rod san,

Thanks for your note! I found the 5 way connector instruction in the starter valve section. It reads:-

Remove the air cleaner case, remove the Pb sensor from it. Put the vacuum tube and coupler to the Pb sensor.

Take off the vacuum connected to each cylinders from the 5 way joint above the throttle body.
Connect each (four) vacuum tube to four manometers.

Remove the air-suction-tube of the secondly air intake device to the lead-valve-cover above the rear cylinder head, then put the cover and plug the lead-valve-cover.

Warm up the engine and set the gear neutral. Use the revolution meter at least 50 rpm reading.
Idling should be: 1,200 +/- 100 rpm

Adjust each intake vacuum pressure same to No.4 cylinder pressure. No.4 starter valve is the base-starter-valve and it is not able to adjust.

This is a draft translation. Sorry I must go out now. I will check the contents again. If you need further section, do not hesitate to ask me!

Best regards,
Kiyo


So, hopefully, this is the definitive answer as to the starter valve settings

digiman

Found this thread on bikersoracle: http://www.bikersoracle.com/vfr/forum/showthread.php?t=44763&pp=15

They managed to get a translation of the japanese service manual:

The answer is................... from the Japanese manual..............

Rod san,

Thanks for your note! I found the 5 way connector instruction in the starter valve section. It reads:-

Remove the air cleaner case, remove the Pb sensor from it. Put the vacuum tube and coupler to the Pb sensor.

Take off the vacuum connected to each cylinders from the 5 way joint above the throttle body.

Connect each (four) vacuum tube to four manometers.

Remove the air-suction-tube of the secondly air intake device to the lead-valve-cover above the rear cylinder head, then put the cover and plug the lead-valve-cover.

Warm up the engine and set the gear neutral. Use the revolution meter at least 50 rpm reading.

Idling should be: 1,200 +/- 100 rpm

Adjust each intake vacuum pressure same to No.4 cylinder pressure. No.4 starter valve is the base-starter-valve and it is not able to adjust.

This is a draft translation. Sorry I must go out now. I will check the contents again. If you need further section, do not hesitate to ask me!

Best regards,

Kiyo

So, hopefully, this is the definitive answer as to the starter valve settings

I also notice a guy who responded that he installed a header and solved all of his problems.

i have often thought the cat had something to do the fueling problem.

So would the same increase on a 5th gen produce similar results?

So reading the Japanese translation, it is saying that ALL 4 vales are set the same.

This is what we have been reading re the Gen 6 all along and from my finding I do not believe this is correct.

Also, what Switchblade is saying re the headers and the cat, I'm running a set of Delkevic headers and LeoVince SBK mid pipe and cans.

I this these make a difference but nowhere near as much as the starter valve settings.

Cheers

Phil

HighSideNZ

So reading the Japanese translation, it is saying that ALL 4 vales are set the same.

This is what we have been reading re the Gen 6 all along and from my finding I do not believe this is correct.

Also, what Switchblade is saying re the headers and the cat, I'm running a set of Delkevic headers and LeoVince SBK mid pipe and cans.

I this these make a difference but nowhere near as much as the starter valve settings.

Cheers

Phil

Without wishing to sound dismissive, what makes you think your way is better than the one designated by Honda themselves? Is there any downside or detrimental effect by changing the SV balance as you suggest that you may not be aware of?

Just thinking out loud here.

Got to think the balanced approach is better .

Honestly, as I said a number of posts back, "food for thought"

I'm sticking with what I've found, but it's up to everyone to make there own decision.

Honda, and any other manufacturer do make mistakes, or make production decisions based on cost or other factors.

Look at what they did with the overall fueling of the VFR. It's a dogs breakfast and they supposedly are the "experts"

Same with Honda and cam chain tensioners since the 1970's

Sorry but the argument that Honda "knows best" doesn't hold water in my experience.

Again, my thoughts and opinions only

Cheers

Phil

HighSideNZ

Honestly, as I said a number of posts back, "food for thought"

I'm sticking with what I've found, but it's up to everyone to make there own decision.

Honda, and any other manufacturer do make mistakes, or make production decisions based on cost or other factors.

Look at what they did with the overall fueling of the VFR. It's a dogs breakfast and they supposedly are the "experts"

Same with Honda and cam chain tensioners since the 1970's

Sorry but the argument that Honda "knows best" doesn't hold water in my experience.

Again, my thoughts and opinions only

Cheers

Phil

True enough, but what do you think are the downsides or harmful effects, if any, of balancing the SVs the way you describe?

I've done the snorkel/PAIR isolation/flapper valve/O2 eliminator mods and low down the throttle on my 08 is beautiful now. Very smooth, hardly any jerkiness at all, 30mph/2500rpm in 5th is easy, 1st gear throttle only small turns are doable too.

I've honestly not found a downside so far.

We are talking about the effect on the 0 to 4% throttle and I too can now ride round and round in circles with great low speed throttle control. Got to be all pluses in my book.

HighSideNZ

I've honestly not found a downside so far.

We are talking about the effect on the 0 to 4% throttle and I too can now ride round and round in circles with great low speed throttle control. Got to be all pluses in my book.

In that case, I might try that next time I balance the SVs (which should be soon as it's on the ramp for an 8k service).

Ok, so, on my bike, partially gutted exhaust, unplugged flapper, unplugged pair, snorkel removed to get a little engine noise.

I synced my starter valves to what I am guessing is close to the modified 5th gen as covered in this topic, that is, about 20 apart.

I followed the service manual, I.e. MAP connected, plugged the hoses going to the pair valves and then adjusted.

It does seem smoother and there is a lot less of a snatchy throttle just off idle. I do definitely like it, however, as I haven't tried it yet with them adjusted per 6th gen specs, I can't tell if there is any real difference between the two.

Did mine today again . number 3 was way off ...

Oh man you have a rapid bike 3?! I'm over here with my rapid bike 2 jealous! Anyways can I hear more about that data logging system?!

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Hi CandyRed

I went for a Zeitronix ZT-2 with their LCD display and the Black Box analyser. These 2 items:

[image: post-25941-0-09403600-1402304971.jpg]

[image: post-25941-0-62193600-1402304996.jpg]

You also need the data splitter to hook up the display and Black Box at the same time.

Check them out at the following URL: http://www.zeitronix.com/index.html

You need to do some wiring alterations to break out the tach and TPS feeds from the ECU. There are other feeds that you can add but generally all you need is a wide band O2 sensor, the RPM and the throttle position and you can work the rest out from there.

The data logging software is very easy to use and give plots like the following.

[image: post-25941-0-97585100-1402305934.jpg]

You need to take a methodical approach to tuning with this gear and to get it right will take some time. Not as fast as on a dyno but good fun working out what is what and works the best.

Cheers

Phil

This is the best stuff I've seen on Vfrd in months!

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Hey CandyRed

How is that TwoBrothers full system going?

Do you think there was an improvement over what you had previously?

As far as the RB3 goes, I found a second hand one on EBay that was off a R6 and flashed it to suit the VFR.

If you have the RapidBike Master software, the firmware for the VFR/RB3 is already included. Very straight forward to do.

If you do find one, let me know as pins 16 and 19 are reversed for the quickshifter and map selector switch.

There is an RB3 currently on EBay and it has a map switch as well. I ended up using a Bazazz map switch on mine with a Cordona SP GP shifter.

The shifter is great. I've never had a missed shift with it.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/06-07-honda-cbr-1000rr-rapid-bike-3-with-map-switch-no-reserve-excellent-shape-/161313452513?pt=Motorcycles_Parts_Accessories&hash=item258f07f1e1&vxp=mtr

Cheers

Phil

This has got to be the best thread ever on Vfrd. I just bout a rb3 and map switch and cbr harness for $160!!!!

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The two brothers full exhaust has been great. The top end is phenomenal. My 1/4 mile trap speed is up to 128mph. Aka the bike hauls ass.

It's a decent amount louder and raspier (especially in vtec) than the generic 98 catless, motad etc header though. But I'm not complaining. Lol

Hey CandyRed

Glad to hear that you've got yourself an RB3

Send me a PM and I'll get the documentation etc. to you to update the firmware.

I've got the firmware that I used as supplied by DIMsport and a standalone app for flashing the device.

Cheers

Phil

Okay thank you!


So what are the benefits of the rb3 over the rb2? Just the ability to switch between maps? I'm thinking of using that for the pit lane limiter feature and wiring it to my clutch switch to use as a two step launch control.

The processing power of the RB3 is better than the RB2

I believe there is about a 4 m/s difference with the RB3 being faster at dishing out the map change to the OEM ECU.

I've been using the second map during my map building process so as I keep the last working map in position 2 and then work on map 1.

That way, if I make a balls up, I just flick the switch and I'm back to something that is workable.

A few more things on my mind. The rapid bike 2 and 3 harnesses are equivalent right? Have you seen the adapter cable that adapts the rapid bike 3 harness for use with the rapid bike race "ecu"?? Also the rapid bike race is still just a piggy back fuel/ignition controller correct? The rapid bike race module I believe has all sorts of auto tuning capabilities etc. but the price is still way up there and almost no availability that I know of.

Thanks again for all the help. There is almost no one to talk about about this stuff.

The RB2/RB3 harnesses are the same, that is correct. The only difference is pins 17 and 19 or 16 and 19 (can't remember which) for the map switch and quick shifter. They are reversed between the RB2 and RB3.

As far as the RB Racing, there is no firmware available for the VFR so even if you could get the adapter for our harness, you wouldn't be able to flash the RB Racing to suit the bike. The only firmware is for the VFR1200 and it is only suitable for the Rapidbike Easy. The entry level unit.

In this part of the world, New Zealand, there is a good distributor of DIMsport gear in Australia but he doesn't have any of the older gear like the RB2/RB3.

So I think we are stuck with the older technology devices of which the RB3 is the more flexible of them.

Phil

That site, "Powder Lites" sells an entire kit to retrofit a "Rapid Bike Racing Module" to an existing Rapid Bike 3 harness.

"Rapid Bike Racing Kit no harness RBR Module, My Tuning Bike, O2 Sensor, Adaptor Harness. Upgrades your sled to RBR capabilities using the existing RB3 harness. $ 1,195.00"

That is way too rich for my blood, but I am just thinking about what can be done. If you were to just start with a zero map on the rapid bike racing module, then manually punch in your existing rapid bike 3 module fuel/ignition maps, and then let the "My Tuning Bike" tune everything for you. I looks to be possible.

The kit that Power Lite sells is for fitting a RB Racing to a Skiddoo 1200 so they must already have firmware suitable.

I don't know where you will get the firmware to suit the VFR800 though!

Without suitable firmware I don't think it is going to fly.

Maybe email Power Lites and ask the question. If it is possible, it opens up so many possibilities. Bluetooth module as well as the auto tuning etc.

Let me know if you find out anything further.

What do you mean by firmware? What do you need firmware for? It should just be plug and play. You should just be able to flash it with a zero map and instal it, then tune it with the my tuning bike. It's just another piggyback controller like the rb3, with some more added features, it's not a standalone.

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Sorry it doesn't work like that.

The RB3 you've just bought will be running the CBR firmware.

The firmware is the software that is written in to the module that controls the specifics of the motorcycle, like firing order etc.

The following screenshot shows the firmware that needs to be installed on the RB3 to make it work with the VFR VTec

[image: post-25941-0-81610000-1402822361.jpg]

The .tut file is the firmware and the .exe file is a stand alone application that is used to install the firmware in to the device via the USB cable.

Take it from me, unless you re-program the RB3 with the correct firmware, it ain't going to work.

I am going to say I am 99% sure on this, the top file is bike specific, controlling fuel and ignition timing. The bottom file, the firmware is specific to the tuning software that you will be using.

There is no reason for the rapid bike to need to know specific firing order etc. The factory ecu will still be in charge of that. The rapid bike will just tell the factory ecu to advance or retard ten degrees.

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Sorry but the bottom file is an application for installing the top file that is the firmware.

Been here and done it.

If you don't understand, I suggest you contact DIMsport support, they will sort you out.

When I first fitted the RB3 to mine (ex Yamaha R6) I put my RB2 map in it and the bike would not run.

Contacted DIMsport and they supplied me the files I mentioned and I flashed the RB3.

Using my RB2 map, the bike fired up first time and ran as expected.

Over to you and good luck.

Okay I'll see what happens with my RB3 when I get a chance.

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I made an enquiry with the PowderLite people re the RB Racing etc.

Here is there reply, and my initial question. The part of interest is "the module itself can't be programmed".

What is the final conclusion for SV sync?Sync as straight line across four cyclinders or staggered formation?

I'm sticking with the staggered cylinders from here on in.

Up to you but worth a try.

Cheers

Phil

Well we're off to a bad start. I plugged my new rb3 into my laptop and I can't even get it to recognize that the rapid bike is plugged in. [image: su8u3yby.jpg][image: heqadeta.jpg]

Then just to double check, I plugged my original rb2 in and everything is fine. I can still access and edit all settings with the rb2, but the rb3 is not connecting, with it on or off the Vfr. The rb2 is connecting with it both on and off the Vfr.

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Are you using the loom that came with the RB3 to test it?

If so, have you tried the loom on your bike?

If you do, just in case there is a fault in the RB3, I'd disconnect the loom from the bikes loom and isolate it completely, then plug the RB3 in.

When I got my RB3, I used the R6 loom to test it and update the firmware without issue so it might be that there is a fault in the unit you've just got.

I'll go ahead and test it with the cbr loom now. I messaged you earlier, do you think that you could email me the drivers for the firmware etc please?

thank you

Okay it still doesn't work with the CBR loom either. You are right the firmware of the RB3 needs to be upgraded and I probably need a newer version of Rapid Bike Pro on my laptop. So I guess some how I need to get the key for Rapid Bike Manager on my laptop.

Getting this back on track with the starter valves, I synced my valves per sixth gen specs, and while I was there, I noticed the vacuum lines had tiny cracks in the portion that slides over the nipple of the starter valve. I replaced them and also trimmed a vacuum line end that had done very small cracks as well. Then I hooked up my pair wire and put the flapper valve house back on.

Now, it's running a lot better. Previously I was running a modified fifth gen sync as stated here. My off idle transition is better and overall, the bike it's running well. The off idle snatchiness was improved with the show mentioned sync, but I noticed that when I was riding and I went to accelerate that it felt like I had to twist the throttle more than before. Dunno.

I still need to put the snorkel back in place. I'll Prolly do that tomorrow.

Whelp it turns out the North America rapid bike distributer is about 10 miles from my house. So I took a trip down there with my recent eBay purchase rapid bike 3. They just confirmed for me what I really didn't want to hear... The rb3 is fried. Looks like I have to file an eBay claim and return it to the seller. FML :(

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Bother. That sucks!

I would expect that the seller would have known it was toast unless they were dismantling a wreck and never tried to fire it up.

Bummer dude. Had a guy sell me 4 shocks and one was flat and had to file a claim. Takes awhile .

Guess what? I talked to the dealer and all we need is 10 people to put down deposits on just the harness and the will produce the new Evo and race modules for us!!! I'm starting a group buy thread now!

"Hey guys,

One of the best shops in my home town Orlando, just became the official Dimsport Rapid Bike dealer of North America. I stopped by the other day to check out the shop and inquire about tuning my Rapid Bike 2 and other general moto talk. I showed the owner my bike and everything that that I have done to it. I told him about my quarter mile times and that there are many other people that would love to have rapid bike products on their vfr800's as well, but there is nothing available for us...

So he got in contact with dimsport and they said all we need is 10 people to put down a deposit on just the harness and they will release the Evo and Race modules for VFR800 use!!!!

Guys this is VERY VERY powerful technology! The Evo module is fully capable of auto tuning the fuel map with the factory o2 sensors. The race module is capable of doing this as well plus it has the ability to tune the ignition timing as well.

I will be first to put down a deposit so we just need 9 more people in line and we can make this happen!!!

I will post more information on actual pricing and all of the features of the Dimsport Rapid Bike Race and Evo modules later on tonight!

Thanks for your time guys! Let's make this happen!!!!"

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Hey Jonathan

Good work on that.

I'd be interested in the Racing module side of things probably, dependant upon costs.

Keep me informed.

Cheers

Phil

Awesome thanks Phil! I'm going to head over to Cycle Pro here in Orlando in a few minutes to get all the pricing info written down. So I should have some numbers for you guys in a couple hours.

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Excellent....

(done in Mr Burns voice...)

Okay so here is the pricing:

The retail on a Race/Evo harness is $198.00. Yaman at Cycle Pro is willing to help us out a little to make this happen ASAP, so he can drop the price on the wire harness to $175.00. The only thing that we need a deposit on is the wire harness. So I am first in line and will be placing a deposit for $175.00 and we just need 9 more people to sign up and place a deposit and production will start.

Now the pricing on the modules is as follows:

The retail for the Rapid Bike Race module is $590.00, but we are going to get it discounted to $530.00. The Rapid Bike Race module is self mapping and has ignition adjustability. So if you take into account that this is actually a pc5 plus autotune plus ignition module all in one and that power commander doesn't even offer an ignition module for us and also that this will have a much simplified design and harness versus a power commander with three separate modules and wire running everywhere, this is actually a really good deal and a no brainer.

The Pricing on the Evo module is as follows:

The retail for the Evo is $375 and we will have it discounted down to $340. The Rapid Bike Evo is similar the racing module in that it too is self mapping, but it lacks in the ignition adjustability and consequently does not allow for the pit lane limiter or launch control either.

Either way I view both of these systems as far superior to all the offerings from power commander and bazzaz. They both are self mapping with out the need for added auto tune modules and the both have full aluminum body casing unlike pc and bazzaz's plastic bodys. Both modules come with a full 2 year factory warranty. If there are any problems with your Rapid Bike Race or Evo you can simply send it back to Cycle Pro here in Orlando and they will Exchange it out with a new one for you free of charge. Being the much higher quality of the Rapid Bike 2 module that I currently own versus my old PC3, I do not see this as ever being an issue.

One last thing, When you guys see the software that comes with your Rapid Bike you will be truly impressed. The tuning software that I currently have for my Rapid Bike 2 module (that is now 13 years old) completely blows power commander and bazzaz out of the water. It has 3 dimensional injection and ignition mapping comparisons, multiple mapping by gear, and available gear, rpm and shift pressure dependent shift cut times for the quick shifter feature. There is a whole lot of other things that I am forgetting, but please go and Research Dimsport and Rapid Bike Racing to get a better understanding. I know not very many people have heard of them state side, but they are huge in Europe and other places around the world.

So it's $705 for the wiring harness and the RB Race. The deposit is $175 for the wiring harness or that is the price?

Basically you are buying the wire harness for $175 and that is the deposit. I am looking for the original official group buy thread, but I cant seem to find it.

CandyRedRC46

Basically you are buying the wire harness for $175 and that is the deposit. I am looking for the original official group buy thread, but I cant seem to find it

I was looking for that thread too as I am interested depending on finances. I am new to this as I never had a FI bike before but I remember reading that there was a lag between the autotune and pcv in a tread awhile back

pnut1236

CandyRedRC46

Basically you are buying the wire harness for $175 and that is the deposit. I am looking for the original official group buy thread, but I cant seem to find it

I was looking for that thread too as I am interested depending on finances. I am new to this as I never had a FI bike before but I remember reading that there was a lag between the autotune and pcv in a tread awhile back

Thread seems to be gone... I reported it to the mods...

Hi again Jonathan

That is good buying by what I've found from down this end of the globe.

You can count me in once the group buy is sorted.

Cheers

Phil

The thread just approved by the moderators. It is back up and running.

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Here you go:

http://www.vfrdiscussion.com/forum/index.php?/topic/78467-Official-Rapid-Bike-Race-Group-Buy%21

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Here is the cumulation of all of our hard work and efforts. We did it!

http://rapidbike.us/products/2002-2009-vfr800-special-project

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Just placed my order.

Can't wait.

Phil

<sigh> maybe a mod could split out this thread leaving the OP topic of SV sync and start a new thread for all the RB2/3 poo.

I'm gonna resync my SV's later this month. If i've got time, I might try staggering them as per the OP but with O2 elims and flat SV's, I've been pretty happy with my roll on throttle response, lack of snatchiness and stead RPM capability in neutral.

I have a motorcycle carburetor synchronizer that is similar to the carbtune. I haven't use it a few years and it has spent those winters in freezing temperatures. Do you guys think it would be ruined from the cold or do you think it has non-freezing fluid in them?

hamiltonfighter

I have a motorcycle carburetor synchronizer that is similar to the carbtune. I haven't use it a few years and it has spent those winters in freezing temperatures. Do you guys think it would be ruined from the cold or do you think it has non-freezing fluid in them?

Some use a colored alcohol mix others have oil... if it isn't cracked or caked it should work.