Thought I Was Immune

Went for a ride today on my '07 and about ten miles in the engine quit at a stop sign. It did this a few more time which has never happened, ever. Decided to bring it on home but before I could the engine died while I was ripping it up in full vtec mode. Got the thing to the shoulder without getting run over and the bike started right up. Made it home safely and found the following:

The left front turn signal is out. The left mainbeam was dim and the highbeams were on despite the switch being in low beam position. Moving the high/low beam switch didn't make any change to the headlights.

The bike will start but when I signaled for a left turn with engine running it kills the engine. Tried it again same thing.

The fuel pump doesn't seem to be priming when the ignition is switched on.

I don't have a tool to measure voltages and the only things I checked were the 30 amp fuse and the connector. Those items looked fine.

Before going any further I thought I would post my issue here and have a few colds to help me think about things.

I checked the electrical section but didn't find anyone with this kinda weird.
Meant say " have a few cold ones" ........

Unfortunately we're all subject to the possibility of electrical gremlins. Another member just posted something similar with weird turn signal behavior. A few ideas might be to check all grounds, use some spray contact cleaner on the headlight and turn switches, check the connectors throughout the harness and have the battery load tested to be sure it's good.

First, like Cogswell said, have the battery load tested. Second, I would have a look at all the "usual suspects", i.e. wiring connections at the battery, the RR and other main electrical connectors for signs of overheating/melting. Then, do "the drill". Below is a good reference to what "the drill" is, in case you are not familiar with it. You can pick up an inexpensive volt meter at Harbor Freight or a Radio Shack, if you can find one that is still open.
 

What are the AC voltages from the stator at idle and 5k rpm? AB to BC to CA? Hot.

And one MORE time............
Sorry for your electrical troubles. Well, looks like you gotta do…. “The Drill.”
Go through all your connectors for burnt leads, dig deep. Crispy wires? Not good. Your gonna have to fix that!
Then---Go through this starting point quick list. You will need a multimeter too.
Steps:
- Recharge battery overnite - then to take it to Autozone, Batterys Plus or similar to load test. -- Good? Bad? – An iffy battery can fake you out and act like a bad R/R. Buy new if needed.
- With good battery fire it up, warm up for a minute or two.
These are R/R quick checks---
--- With voltmeter at battery get voltages -- idle volts? 5000 rpm volts? What’s the numbers? Should be in 13ish min idle and in 14s at revs. If in the 12s at idle, try at 1900 rpm. (It’s not unusual for the system to be in discharge or no charge at idle.)
- Check stator
- 1. Pull connector apart. Set meter to resistance. Check pin to pin stator side, 3 yellow wires, A to B, B to C, C to A. What’s the numbers? 3 separate readings --Should be less than 1.0 ohms. (Engine off)
- 2. Check continuity from each A,B,C pin stator side to ground, -- -should be infinity - nada nothing. no continuity. -- 3 separate checks. (Engine off, again connector is apart)
- 3. Crank it back up. Do another pin to pin thing, but set meter on AC volts. idle and 5000 rpms. What's da numbers? Should start 15 -20ish and climb 50ish and more. Again – 3 readings stator side connector and still apart.
- Repeat hot.
This quick list will catch the obvious stuff, but if you need to dig deeper check this chart. (Some guys like this chart, my taste, I don’t care for it.)
http://www.electrosp...ing-diagram.pdf

Thanks for the pointers, I'll get into it and see what the deal is.