In The Middle Of A Chain And Sprocket Replace. Need Advice Now.

Ok, so I took everyone's advice and got myself a great chain and sprocket set from sprocketcenter. Now I am in the middle of the project and have a few issues...

I realize NOW that I should have taken the front sprocket loose first so I could use the chain and brake for tension to get the front sprocket bolt loose. Since I didn't do it that way, anyone have any suggestions on how I can accomplish taking the front sprocket off with the chain already removed? (Yeah, in pretty proud of myself for getting as far as I did)

Also...

From what it looks like, the front sprocket looks alright (but I'm a brand new "mechanic" so what do I know?) but I was wondering if the sprocket should have that much play?

https://youtu.be/ln5mI7ccYPg

Also when I took the three bolts out of the thingy to get to the front sprocket (ok, I just looked it up - it's the clutch slave cylinder) the LONG bolts were badly rusted.

[image: ce17bf5c3fcae486c70688a9230cfdcd.jpg]

I was afraid to attempt to pry the cover off, so I left the short bolt in tact, and continued to gain access to the front sprocket.

[image: 37d02eb9e65c7a83d219c6aab9c59b11.jpg]

This leads me to a few questions...

1.)How do you suppose those long bolts got so badly rusted?

2.) Should I attempt to gain access to the clutch slave cylinder so I can see what it looks like in there (not that I would be able to understand what I'm looking at)?

3.) How should i remove the rubbery feeling grime from the sprocket surroundings and cover?

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I'll let the experts answer 1 and 2...

3. Yes, its chain lube 'spooge'. WD-40 should make quick work of it.

Use a straight edged screw driver or blade to scrap the worst of the gunk out.

The rust is from the bolt being installed with NO lubrication, so water seeps in & rusts the unprotected surface, gets hot cold, which helps rust.

Be careful with the clutch slave cylinder, it has a spring inside & will push the piston out. Use a G-clamp to keep it in. If you don't understand it, then leave it, but its worth pulling cleaning & lubing the clutch rod, sticking out in fron tof the sprocket in your picture.

To get the sprocket nut loose, you can put the bike in 1st gear & then use an impact wrench electric or air powered to undo the nut. If not available, then just put the old chain across the upper run & tie in place so the rear brake can be used to resist the losening of the bolt.

rhoderage

I'll let the experts answer 1 and 2...

3. Yes, its chain lube 'spooge'. WD-40 should make quick work of it.

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Mohawk

Use a straight edged screw driver or blade to scrap the worst of the gunk out.

The rust is from the bolt being installed with NO lubrication, so water seeps in & rusts the unprotected surface, gets hot cold, which helps rust.

Be careful with the clutch slave cylinder, it has a spring inside & will push the piston out. Use a G-clamp to keep it in. If you don't understand it, then leave it, but its worth pulling cleaning & lubing the clutch rod, sticking out in fron tof the sprocket in your picture.

To get the sprocket nut loose, you can put the bike in 1st gear & then use an impact wrench electric or air powered to undo the nut. If not available, then just put the old chain across the upper run & tie in place so the rear brake can be used to resist the losening of the bolt.

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I did my chain 2 years ago so I don't recall offhand the play in the front sprocket, but from seeing the video I would also be questioning if that was right. Picture the bike going down the highway at 60mph with the front sprocket doing that... Take it off and get a good look at it, check the markings to make sure it is actually the correct sprocket for the bike (search on internet), see if there is any wearing on the mating surface and check the bolt that holds it in as well. I have a feeling once you get it apart it will become more evident... but perhaps someone with more experience will chime in, I recall that OEM front sprockets have a rubber cushion on the backside that reduce noise/vibes, so perhaps the aftermarket without it does naturally have a little more play...but I think that looks excessive.

PS to add to my 'use WD-40' comment for around the front sprocket, a used toothbrush will work well to assist scrubbing the chunks out, and won't damage anything.

Easy peezy! First gear worked like a charm![image: 50c9a59b0a6d60eb9c1056767ca2ad3b.jpg]

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I could be wrong, but I think this looks like the original sprocket.

[image: ab9fa48a6e38f784cf6b6f90c7880412.jpg][image: 4ba5a6e5e8b5928836e0d2cdbfa55d3d.jpg]

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While you have the sprocket off, check the speedometer sensor for wear. There's a nylon piece that fits over the sprocket nut that can wear/round-out and will cause a jumpy speedometer.

Wow. Look at the difference between the old and new sprockets. Width and size of the teeth. I'm thinking I'll just put the old one back on. What do you think?

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[image: 2cabe566d7d094c8d574009a982a20b5.jpg]

[image: ce17bf5c3fcae486c70688a9230cfdcd.jpg]

Pressure washing ?

RAnderson

Wow. Look at the difference between the old and new sprockets. Width and size of the teeth. I'm thinking I'll just put the old one back on. What do you think?

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[image: 2cabe566d7d094c8d574009a982a20b5.jpg]

Sunstar counter sprocket ?

[image: 4a63fc0f3643a19c3fe76acd5f346e7e.jpg][image: 22314bc4f920ce7070b9c9878badd96d.jpg]What do you think? Looks pretty clean to me.

Havagan

While you have the sprocket off, check the speedometer sensor for wear. There's a nylon piece that fits over the sprocket nut that can wear/round-out and will cause a jumpy speedometer.

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Switchblade

[image: ce17bf5c3fcae486c70688a9230cfdcd.jpg]

Pressure washing ?

RAnderson

Wow. Look at the difference between the old and new sprockets. Width and size of the teeth. I'm thinking I'll just put the old one back on. What do you think?

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[image: 2cabe566d7d094c8d574009a982a20b5.jpg]

Sunstar counter sprocket ?

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The OEM front sprocket has rubber flanges to cushion the chain as it rolls on - you can probably see the grooves cut in to the rubber by the chain's side plates. IIRC AFAM makes one like that but most aftermarket counter sprockets lack the rubber cushion. Not a big deal really - it should work fine. What chain did you go with - was it a kit?

I prefer an OEM countershaft sprocket, but the Sprocketcenter kits are generally pretty good.

Cogswell

The OEM front sprocket has rubber flanges to cushion the chain as it rolls on - you can probably see the grooves cut in to the rubber by the chain's side plates. IIRC AFAM makes one like that but most aftermarket counter sprockets lack the rubber cushion. Not a big deal really - it should work fine. What chain did you go with - was it a kit?

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Anyone know the measurement of the rivet flare the new chain should have?

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RAnderson

Cogswell

The OEM front sprocket has rubber flanges to cushion the chain as it rolls on - you can probably see the grooves cut in to the rubber by the chain's side plates. IIRC AFAM makes one like that but most aftermarket counter sprockets lack the rubber cushion. Not a big deal really - it should work fine. What chain did you go with - was it a kit?

DID OEM kit

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Anyone know the measurement of the rivet flare the new chain should have?

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The rivet spec depends on the chain. Specs are here:

http://www.didchain.com/chainTools.html

correct flare dimensions are on page 11 of this document.

http://www.didchain.com/PDF/DID_2014usa_final.pdf

For future reference in regards to the front sprocket....

To avoid unnecessary torque on your gearbox, just drape the chain over the front and rear sprockets and use a zip tie for temporary tightness/resistence to remove the front sprocket.

Corkey

For future reference on the front sprocket, just drape the chain over the front and rear sprockets and use a zip tie for temporary tightness/resistence to remove the front sprocket.

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If you replace a thicker front sprocket with a thinner one (i.e. OEM) the female cap that engages the countershaft male nut may need to be slid on it's axle (shaft) towards the engine block to prevent rapid wear or lack of engagement. It happened to me; lost my speedo and odo until Miguel figured it out for me on the way to SumSum3 (thanks Miguel).

MaxSwell

If you replace a thicker front sprocket with a thinner one (i.e. OEM) the female cap that engages the countershaft male nut may need to be slid on it's axle (shaft) towards the engine block to prevent rapid wear or lack of engagement. It happened to me; lost my speedo and odo until Miguel figured it out for me on the way to SumSum3 (thanks Miguel).

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RAnderson

MaxSwell

If you replace a thicker front sprocket with a thinner one (i.e. OEM) the female cap that engages the countershaft male nut may need to be slid on it's axle (shaft) towards the engine block to prevent rapid wear or lack of engagement. It happened to me; lost my speedo and odo until Miguel figured it out for me on the way to SumSum3 (thanks Miguel).

Thanks for that piece of information it makes sense. What about the more narrow front sprocket? Isn't it closer to the engine block than one that is thicker and has a rubber piece on both sides(like the oem one)? Is there an adjustment that would need to take place to compensate for that?

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You are describing exactly the one I mentioned: going from a (potentially) thicker non-OEM sprocket to the thinner OEM sprocket (or a non-OEM that is thinner than the previously installed one).

I wasn't talking about the speed sensor, I was talking about the alignment of the sprocket to the chain

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RAnderson

I wasn't talking about the speed sensor, I was talking about the alignment of the sprocket to the chain

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Okay, sorry. Since I've never swapped out a chain and sprockets myself, I do not know the answer to your question. I'd guess there is nothing to worry about. There's room in there for a thin sprocket and a thicker one with out need for further adjustments.

Thanks everyone for your help! Got everything on, all over got to do is find replacement bolts and nuts for the rear sprocket and I'll be set (I assume... Since I haven't cranked or ridden it, which is important)

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Wire brush the long bolts clean, and be very careful NOT to overtighten them !!!!! Observe tightening sequence illustrated in FSM>

Listen to squirrelman. I ended up having to toss a few nuts. Pun intended. I gently tightened them to proper torque with a torque wrench, but still manage to strip a few. Buy extra nuts.