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Barnett Clutch Install, Now Bike Dies When Changed From Neutral To 1St

7 posts Started 23 Jan 2016 Last recovered post 26 Jan 2016 Wayback Machine snapshot 12 Sep 2017

#1

***UPDATE! SOLVED!***

I have a 99 VFR and as far as I know it has never had a clutch job done on it. At least not in my ownership.

I just replaced some really REALLY cooked clutch plates with nice Barnett ones that I had soaking in oil for at least 30min before install. Also, the kit included springs and friction plates were also installed.

When I start up the bike, everything is good, the bike only starts in Neutral and the clutch lever feels nice, but i cannot rotate the back tire with the clutch lever held in. Also, when I put the bike into 1st (lever pulled in, kickstand up) from Neutral the bike stalls and the engine cuts out.

As far as I know, the clutch is spinning in its basket because with the handle pulled in i can gently pull the clutch shifter up and feel the basket rotating.

Any ideas? I think I need to do a clutch hydraulic flush job, but if you know of something else, please let me know.

Pic related, its a clutch plate that I took out (second from last) it is supposed to have plating on it.

***UPDATE! SOLVED!***

[image: post-22829-0-57715500-1453513451.jpg]

Edited January 26, 2016 by MRChickhabit
#2

Yes. Your clutch master cylinder is pushing bubbles of air or you have not installed the push rod properly.

I you wanted you could right now bump start the bike in first and then perform a clutchless upshift into second.

You have to shut it down and coast back in as it is not healthy to downshift without the use of the clutch.

#3

check you master cylinder for leaking fluid, I had the same problem last week and a rebuild kit fixed everything

#4
CornerCarver

Yes. Your clutch master cylinder is pushing bubbles of air or you have not installed the push rod properly.

I you wanted you could right now bump start the bike in first and then perform a clutchless upshift into second.

You have to shut it down and coast back in as it is not healthy to downshift without the use of the clutch.

I never messed with the push rod, so I'm going to do a clutch flush job tomorrow.

ChiefGodzilla

check you master cylinder for leaking fluid, I had the same problem last week and a rebuild kit fixed everything

I did develop a mystery leak before i changed the clutch, perhaps that is the problem.

Thanks everyone, I'll keep you updated as I progress.

#5

Check the slave cylinder for leaks.

#6

UPDATE!

Problem solved!

Barnett friction plates are not all alike. It turns out that one friction plate has a larger opening than the rest, this was not known to me, in fact, I had to wait until Monday to call Barnett and hear them first get very confused and then discovering that I was unaware of this. After they told me that this plate should be in the back deepest in the clutch basket, everything came together easily.

Below is a stack of the plates with the unique plate on top.

[image: post-22829-0-37240200-1453796926.jpg]

Edited January 26, 2016 by MRChickhabit
#7

That snippet should be in the service manual.........

End of thread · 7 posts recovered Wayback Machine snapshot 12 Sep 2017