More hot wires/connector

This time the connector coming from the ignition switch into the harness is hot hot.

I'm pretty sure I've isolated it to the red power wire that goes through the connector that is the culprit.

It looks like this is the other end of the wire that goes to the starter solenoid, correct?

What should I do, remove the red wire from the connector and solder them direct?

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If you haven't already, pull the connectors apart and inspect for condition.

The male terminal end didn't look bad. No discoloration.

Having trouble getting the female connector out. Is there a tab under there to release it?

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There is generally a tang underneath the Spade connector that locks it into the plastic connector. You will need to slide something small and thin in from the front as you pull the wire from the rear. See photo.

The plain RED is from your Main Fuse A at your Starter Relay it's the main 12v supply to and from (from via the Red/Black wire) the Ignition Switch.

If its getting really hot then it must be at the connector as a bad hi resistance joint, there's already signs of heat stress discolouration of the plastic connector at the Red wire.

Sometimes it can be caused by a bad/loose crimp of the wire to the spade connectors or (over time) just poor connection between the two. OR lastly, excessive loads added to the electrical system!

Probably the best solution is to cut the Red wire solder and sleeve them together. You could also just leave the Red wire and connector as is, but solder a bypass wire, carefully remove some of the insulation of the Red wire above and below the connector and solder a similar gauge wire to the Red wire, you'd have to properly insulate your repair, you'd never want this wire to touch frame!

When working on it, best to pull the Main Fuse A 30amp. OR disconnect a Battery Lead.

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Here's what I found when I peeled back the sheath.[image: fa161b7c30f10d7b001aaa07a352ef72.jpg]

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So that's 2 wires from the key ignition going into one in the connector block?[image: 245273aa78991d80c7f610e06f792631.jpg]

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What you're holding is the junction of the Red wire for the BAT1, BAT2 connections of the Ignition Switch. See attached.

Dont't forget be careful, once you are plugged into the 4P plug those wires have 12v on them. Best to Pull the Fuse.

That joining ferrel could be a good soldering point for a connector by-pass wire. 

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I disconnected the battery before doing anything.

I changed out the single wire for new wire and connected to the red wire on the other side of the block.

Red wire is no longer burning!

Now the red/black wire is though lol

I removed both sides of the red/black wire and made a direct connection crimped soldered heatshrink wrapped.

Red/black wire is no longer burning!

Now the funny part!

I made the hardwire connections on the outside of the radiator hose! [image: emoji1787.png]

So I'm going to let it cool enough to slip the top long hose off the radiator so I can tuck the cluster back where it belongs

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lol isn't that always the way

good identification and fix of problem!

Permanent fix of the 2 power leads to the ignition switch. Don't worry, it's shrinkwrapped, just not shown. I used a 12 awg splice, twisted the pair of 14s into one end, and doubled over the single 14 end into the splice, crimp and solder wrapped.

Definitely harder to make something pretty while it's on the bike is much rather had it on the bench. [image: b8f4456187596c6da036c5b1fc71435a.jpg]

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