Changing oil cooler lines

The metal fittings on my oil cooler lines on my 02 are corroded and rusting.  I think the metal is intact but it just looks bad.  Ordered some replacements on ebay and was wondering what steps I need to take to get it done properly.  I know nothing of V4 motors.  But I used to do mild wrenching on my old Yammie I-4 and mild stuff on my cages.

I did try to search, but came up short as my search-fu is weak today.

Also, got a little rust on the forks and some corrosion on some of the fittings/cooler mounts? (sorry I don't know the names yet)

Thanks for any tips you might have.

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Dang, do you park in the Bay (as opposed to the Bay Area)?  I love the salty air (I grew up next to the Pacific), but that's not looking good, is it? 

Anyway, the corroded brackets on the left of your picture are for the gazillion OEM brake lines on your bike.  Spray some WD40 on them, but replacing them would probably be rather expensive.

The rust on your fork stanchions is also not good, but it looks like its above the max line where the seals travel; if not, that kind of damage will destroy seals in short order, and there's no cheap solution.  Get into the habit of spraying your bike's metal bits with WD40 or something else like ACF-50.

As for the topic of your post, the oil cooler lines, again, there is no cheap solution.  Getting some un-corroded lines from another bike (hello, eBay) would be the cheapest.  Having looked into this before, I can tell you I've never found a cheap and easy aftermarket replacement for Honda oil cooler lines.  No one seems to make adapters which would allow you to use standard AN hoses and fittings on the engine side or the cooler side.  I have some on my 5th gen, but they were made by A&A Performance for their supercharger kit, and A&A is no more.  Should be simple enough to CNC mill some adapters if you had either the opportunity or the means, however.

Ciao,

JZH

JZH, 5/31/2020 at 4:56 AM

Dang, do you park in the Bay (as opposed to the Bay Area)?  I love the salty air (I grew up next to the Pacific), but that's not looking good, is it? 

Anyway, the corroded brackets on the left of your picture are for the gazillion OEM brake lines on your bike.  Spray some WD40 on them, but replacing them would probably be rather expensive.

The rust on your fork stanchions is also not good, but it looks like its above the max line where the seals travel; if not, that kind of damage will destroy seals in short order, and there's no cheap solution.  Get into the habit of spraying your bike's metal bits with WD40 or something else like ACF-50.

As for the topic of your post, the oil cooler lines, again, there is no cheap solution.  Getting some un-corroded lines from another bike (hello, eBay) would be the cheapest.  Having looked into this before, I can tell you I've never found a cheap and easy aftermarket replacement for Honda oil cooler lines.  No one seems to make adapters which would allow you to use standard AN hoses and fittings on the engine side or the cooler side.  I have some on my 5th gen, but they were made by A&A Performance for their supercharger kit, and A&A is no more.  Should be simple enough to CNC mill some adapters if you had either the opportunity or the means, however.

Ciao,

JZH

Looking at those oil line fittings it certainly seems like it was parked in the bay! LOL!  I don't know too much about the previous history of this bike.  I just picked her up a week ago so I'm in the process of going through and getting her more road worthy.  The previous owner had her for 2 years and it was a 3rd bike for him.  Fortunately it was garaged when he had it.  He did mentioned that the owner before him had it in Berkeley and it was stored outdoors.  The paint on the fairings is slightly faded, lots of the aluminum bits have mild surface corrosion.  Not sure why the oil cooler lines were so bad though.

I'll deal with the brackets as best I can.  Spraying them with WD40 is a start.  

I'll be taking the forks off and dealing with the surface rust as best I can.  I don't see any rust along the areas where the suspension travels so I think I'll be ok.

I was able to get left and right used OEM lines on ebay for $25/each so I'm good to go there. They are in great shape considering they are around the same age as my 02 and they even came with o-rings (I think I'll get new ones though)

My main question was whether or not I need to totally drain the oil first or scan I just swap out the lines knowing that some oil will come out.  

Thinking about it now I think it will be easier if I just drain the oil and swap out the lines.

Thanks for your reply!

Always a good idea to do an oil change on a new to you bike, oil filter too. Will be having a good look at these fittings on my VFR as I live close to the coast. Seems strange that the fitting at the top of the oil line marked with an arrow is particularly bad but the fitting lower down looks fine, I’m sure there is a logical explanation. Good luck with it all, it will be worth the effort, I am sure you will love the VFR. Keep us updated.🧰

1 hour ago, Jelorian

Looking at those oil line fittings it certainly seems like it was parked in the bay! LOL!  I don't know too much about the previous history of this bike.  I just picked her up a week ago so I'm in the process of going through and getting her more road worthy.  The previous owner had her for 2 years and it was a 3rd bike for him.  Fortunately it was garaged when he had it.  He did mentioned that the owner before him had it in Berkeley and it was stored outdoors.  The paint on the fairings is slightly faded, lots of the aluminum bits have mild surface corrosion.  Not sure why the oil cooler lines were so bad though.

I'll deal with the brackets as best I can.  Spraying them with WD40 is a start.  

I'll be taking the forks off and dealing with the surface rust as best I can.  I don't see any rust along the areas where the suspension travels so I think I'll be ok.

I was able to get left and right used OEM lines on ebay for $25/each so I'm good to go there. They are in great shape considering they are around the same age as my 02 and they even came with o-rings (I think I'll get new ones though)

My main question was whether or not I need to totally drain the oil first or scan I just swap out the lines knowing that some oil will come out.  

Thinking about it now I think it will be easier if I just drain the oil and swap out the lines.

Thanks for your reply!

There was a great post by Mohawk pre 2015 where he went through creating custom cooler lines using AN fittings.  It's referenced in this thread in his post about 1/2 way down the page.  Unfortunately, the link is broken or the thread has been purged.  Maybe PM him and see if he has suggestions and photos for you.

https://www.vfrdiscussion.com/index.php?/forums/topic/61446-rc51-oil-cooler-install-on-5th-gen/page/2/&tab=comments#comment-991019

If you do go the used OEM route, you should get new O-rings for where the lines attach to the oil pan and also the cooler.  The oil will be under pressure and replacement is good insurance against leaks. 

As for draining the oil, have a look at the level in the site glass where you check it and compare that to where the cooler attaches to the pan beneath.  When changing the lines you'll drain the oil one way or the other, either using the drain plug or when removing the line.  Even after the oil is drained, keep the pan handy as the cooler will also lose its contents so be prepared for some clean up.  

Best of luck with it. 

51 minutes ago, Philois1984

Always a good idea to do an oil change on a new to you bike, oil filter too. Will be having a good look at these fittings on my VFR as I live close to the coast. Seems strange that the fitting at the top of the oil line marked with an arrow is particularly bad but the fitting lower down looks fine, I’m sure there is a logical explanation. Good luck with it all, it will be worth the effort, I am sure you will love the VFR. Keep us updated.🧰

Totally agree, they previous owner just changed it before I picked it up.  I suppose I could just just save the oil and put it back in.  

Thanks for the tip!  I'll post back here as I make more progress.  This is just a small part of me going through the whole bike to make her road worthy.  Gonna do brake fluid, brake pads, clutch fluid, coolant, and front and rear suspension.

16 minutes ago, Cogswell

There was a great post by Mohawk pre 2015 where he went through creating custom cooler lines using AN fittings.  It's referenced in this thread in his post about 1/2 way down the page.  Unfortunately, the link is broken or the thread has been purged.  Maybe PM him and see if he has suggestions and photos for you.

https://www.vfrdiscussion.com/index.php?/forums/topic/61446-rc51-oil-cooler-install-on-5th-gen/page/2/&tab=comments#comment-991019

If you do go the used OEM route, you should get new O-rings for where the lines attach to the oil pan and also the cooler.  The oil will be under pressure and replacement is good insurance against leaks. 

As for draining the oil, have a look at the level in the site glass where you check it and compare that to where the cooler attaches to the pan beneath.  When changing the lines you'll drain the oil one way or the other, either using the drain plug or when removing the line.  Even after the oil is drained, keep the pan handy as the cooler will also lose its contents so be prepared for some clean up.  

Best of luck with it. 

Thanks for the tips.  I do have the replacement oil lines and I just need to get around to replacing them.  I am seriously thinking of picking up the Harbor Freight motorcycle lift for $350.00.  Would make things much easier.  I can't do the work in my driveway as I live on a hill and the driveway is way too sloped.  Will definitely do the o-rings as I would hate to get a leak.

Jelorian

My oil cooler lines were bad so I replaced them with stainless steel braided hoses and at the same time upgraded to an RC51 cooler. If you go down this line you will need to remove your exhaust to remove the sump and tap a thread into the inlet and outlet ports where the oil cooler lines connect to the sump using AN fittings. You will also need to to cut off the block connectors on your oil cooler and tap two threads so the new braided lines can connect using AN fittings. I also feed the braided lines in rubber hose And heat shrinked the ends to protect the fairing from vibration associated rasping from the braided hoseS.

The last photo was my initial attempt to increase the air flow over my oil cooler to help with cooling through making a ducted aluminium scoop. When I upgraded to the RC51 oil cooler and braided lines I ditched the ducted attachment.

[image: 31D95D12-F9B6-4DDF-A1BF-554FB8293B3E.thumb.jpeg.221d2a0338c841a4f3741a9b99a80352.jpeg]

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I'd forgotten that you could simply drill and tap the oil cooler for AN fittings, but I would be very uncomfortable drilling and tapping the engine case in situ.  

Ciao,

JZH

Also you'll notice that the fairing sags in the centre at the back just in front of the oil cooler.

I managed to make a bracket that hooks onto the light and put a screw thru the saggy section to lift it.

Every little bit of air flow

8 hours ago, JZH

I'd forgotten that you could simply drill and tap the oil cooler for AN fittings, but I would be very uncomfortable drilling and tapping the engine case in situ.  

Ciao,

JZH

You need to remove the sump to conduct the tapping of the thread as that is the only method to remove the swarf completely, hence having to remove the exhaust. You don’t need to drill it as also for the oil cooler. I seem to remember I used AN6 fittings. Can check as I bought some additional 45 degree swivel joints but found the 90 degree bends worked best coming out of the sump pan. The other issue is when reinstalling the sump that you don’t overdo applying the gasket sealant where it meets the bottom of the engine. Too much and it will squeeze out into the oil sump and find its way into the oil pick up strainer. Too little and it leaks oil. Don’t ask me how I no!!!!

1 hour ago, boOZZIE

Also you'll notice that the fairing sags in the centre at the back just in front of the oil cooler.

I managed to make a bracket that hooks onto the light and put a screw thru the saggy section to lift it.

Every little bit of air flow

By using the RC51 oil cooler more fins are exposed hence why I removed the scoop. I also found on very hard breaking that the scoop would bottom out on the front fender, track days only.

9 hours ago, JZH

I'd forgotten that you could simply drill and tap the oil cooler for AN fittings, but I would be very uncomfortable drilling and tapping the engine case in situ.  

Ciao,

JZH

IIRC, in Mohawk's thread the hose was somehow attached to the OEM fitting to the pan, so no need to tap it.  I could be wrong -  I may have pics of that saved somewhere,  I'll see if I can find them.  He did a really good write up on it.  

Here we are . . . these pics were from Mohawk's thread on doing cooler line conversion.  I'm not sure how it was accomplished to attach the hoses to the OEM oil pan fittings, but for my $.02, it sure beats removing the pan and tapping the opening. 

[image: image.png.cc668682e7b14f5b7c967bc1180ad3b8.png]

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The original oil lines fit to the pan fittings via a couple of inches of flexible hose, my guess if for vibration isolation & easy alignment. On the old lines, just use some tin snips to cut through the hose to separate the pan fitting. Then carefully use a helical cut wiTh a hacksaw or dremel cutting blade through the crimped on furrule, then peel it off & remove the hose stub.
 

You now have a connector ready for a new hose. You can either do what I did & use a metal screw hose clamp to hold the new hose, the blue fitting is just a shield to cover the clamp, or take it to a hydraulic hose shop & have a new furrule clamped on.

20 hours ago, Marooncobra

Jelorian

My oil cooler lines were bad so I replaced them with stainless steel braided hoses and at the same time upgraded to an RC51 cooler. If you go down this line you will need to remove your exhaust to remove the sump and tap a thread into the inlet and outlet ports where the oil cooler lines connect to the sump using AN fittings. You will also need to to cut off the block connectors on your oil cooler and tap two threads so the new braided lines can connect using AN fittings. I also feed the braided lines in rubber hose And heat shrinked the ends to protect the fairing from vibration associated rasping from the braided hoseS.

The last photo was my initial attempt to increase the air flow over my oil cooler to help with cooling through making a ducted aluminium scoop. When I upgraded to the RC51 oil cooler and braided lines I ditched the ducted attachment.

[image: 31D95D12-F9B6-4DDF-A1BF-554FB8293B3E.thumb.jpeg.221d2a0338c841a4f3741a9b99a80352.jpeg]

[image: 3BD17D1F-336D-4602-85C9-42E8781A479B.jpeg]

[image: 40E1A3D7-F60B-4C4D-86BF-A8C773DB1739.jpeg]

[image: 2160EDF6-2BD6-4C65-8AFF-347FF2224030.jpeg]

[image: 01A4268E-ECD0-4295-8B35-CB90A8EE4FD2.jpeg]

Marooncobra, that looks very nice.  Thanks for the pics and the information.  Looks like the RC51 cooler is a bit bigger than the stock VFR?   How has it been working for you?  Can the oil cooler be too efficient?

7 hours ago, Cogswell

Here we are . . . these pics were from Mohawk's thread on doing cooler line conversion.  I'm not sure how it was accomplished to attach the hoses to the OEM oil pan fittings, but for my $.02, it sure beats removing the pan and tapping the opening. 

[image: image.png.cc668682e7b14f5b7c967bc1180ad3b8.png]

[image: image.png.f598802cc66b420fbf822ca6e9559c62.png]

Cogswell, thanks for finding Mohawks pics and sharing them here.  Looks very cool and I'm glad to know that I have options.

Since I've already found OEM cooler lines, I just need to get the o-rings and I should be set. 

I spent the afternoon doing some light detailing on the 02.  The fairings were faded and same with all the black plastics.

Used some rubbing compound on the fairings and it came out really good.  I tried using some black trim restorer on the plastics and it seemed to work ok.  I know there must be something better out there.

She cleaned up real nice, but will wait till I have more time to get all the fairings off and really dive in.